Lip Products Research Articles

Mineral oil and synthetic hydrocarbons in cosmetic lip products.

Lipsticks and lip care products may contain saturated hydrocarbons which either stem from mineral oil saturated hydrocarbons (MOSH) or are synthetic, that is polyolefin oligomeric saturated hydrocarbons (POSH). Some of these hydrocarbons are strongly accumulated and form granulomas in human tissues, which prompted Cosmetics Europe (former Colipa) to issue a recommendation for their use in lip care and oral products. From 2012 to 2014, MOSH+POSH were determined in 175 cosmetic lip products taken from the Swiss market in order to estimate their contribution to human exposure. Mineral oil saturated hydrocarbons and POSH were extracted and analysed by GC with FID. Areas were integrated as a total as well as by mass ranges with cuts at n-C25 and n-C34 to characterize the molecular mass distribution. About 68% of the products contained at least 5% MOSH+POSH (total concentration). For regular users, these products would be major contributors to their MOSH+POSH exposure. About 31% of the products contained more than 32% MOSH+POSH. Their regular usage would amount in an estimated MOSH+POSH exposure exceeding the highest estimated dietary exposure. The majority of the products contained hydrocarbons with a molecular mass range which was not in line with the recommendations of Cosmetics Europe. Taking into account that material applied to the lips largely ends up being ingested, MOSH and POSH levels should be reduced in the majority of cosmetic lip products. As the extensive evaluation of the data available on MOSH (EFSA J., 10, 2012, 2704) did not enable the specification of limits considered as safe, the present level of dietary exposure and its evaluation as 'of potential concern' provide the relevant bench mark, which means that lip products should contain clearly less than 5% MOSH+POSH.

Qualitative identification of permitted and non-permitted color additives in cosmetics.

Color additives are dyes, pigments, or other substances that can impart color when added or applied to foods, drugs, cosmetics, medical devices, or the human body. These substances must be pre-approved by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) and listed in the Code of Federal Regulations before they may be used in FDA-regulated products. Both domestic and imported cosmetic products sold in interstate commerce fall under FDA jurisdiction, and FDA's district laboratories use a combination of analytical methods for identifying or confirming the presence of potentially violative color additives. We have developed a qualitative method for identifying 29 water- and methanol-soluble color additives in various types of cosmetic products. The color additives are extracted with combinations of methylene chloride, methanol, acetic acid, and water and are identified by LC with photodiode array detection. Estimated LOD values ranged from 0.1 to 1.5 mg/L. A survey of lip products, nail polishes, eye products, blushes, body glitter, face paints, bath products, creams, and toothpastes identified permitted and non-permitted color additives. Our new LC method is intended to supplement the visible spectrophotometry and TLC methods currently used by FDA's district laboratories and will help optimize the use of time, labor, and solvents.

Metals in Lip Products - A Cause for Concern?

Metals in Lip Products - A Cause for Concern?

Concentrations and Potential Health Risks of Metals in Lip Products

Background: Metal content in lip products has been an issue of concern.Objectives: We measured lead and eight other metals in a convenience sample of 32 lip products used by young Asian women in Oakland, California, and assessed potential health risks related to estimated intakes of these metals.Methods: We analyzed lip products by inductively coupled plasma optical emission spectrometry and used previous estimates of lip product usage rates to determine daily oral intakes. We derived acceptable daily intakes (ADIs) based on information used to determine public health goals for exposure, and compared ADIs with estimated intakes to assess potential risks.Results: Most of the tested lip products contained high concentrations of titanium and aluminum. All examined products had detectable manganese. Lead was detected in 24 products (75%), with an average concentration of 0.36 ± 0.39 ppm, including one sample with 1.32 ppm. When used at the estimated average daily rate, estimated intakes were > 20% of ADIs derived for aluminum, cadmium, chromium, and manganese. In addition, average daily use of 10 products tested would result in chromium intake exceeding our estimated ADI for chromium. For high rates of product use (above the 95th percentile), the percentages of samples with estimated metal intakes exceeding ADIs were 3% for aluminum, 68% for chromium, and 22% for manganese. Estimated intakes of lead were < 20% of ADIs for average and high use.Conclusions: Cosmetics safety should be assessed not only by the presence of hazardous contents, but also by comparing estimated exposures with health-based standards. In addition to lead, metals such as aluminum, cadmium, chromium, and manganese require further investigation.

European survey on the content of lead in lip products

223 lip articles (representing 55 brands) were purchased in 15 European Union Member States and analysed for lead content. Various lip products (lipsticks and lip glosses), shades (red, brown, purple and pink) and price ranges (3 categories) were investigated. The analytical method employed a microwave-assisted acid digestion followed by ICP-MS determination. The results revealed that 49 samples (22%) contained lead at a level higher than 1mg/kg, representing 31% of the tested lipsticks and 4% of the lip glosses. On average, the lead content found in lipsticks (0.75mg/kg) was nearly double that found in lip glosses (0.38mg/kg) and this difference was judged statistically significant at 95% probability. Apart from brown, statistically significant higher levels of lead were also found when comparing the average lead contents in lipsticks and lip glosses of the same shade: pink (0.81 and 0.38mg/kg), purple (0.88 and 0.37mg/kg) and red (0.58 and 0.25mg/kg).The influence of price on lead content was studied on the two lip product types separately. In the case of lip glosses no differences were found. In the case of lipsticks, the more expensive items (price category III) contained a significantly lower quantity of lead in comparison to the cheapest articles (price category I). The lipsticks containing the highest levels of lead belonged to the price category II.In all cases, however, the actual lead concentration measured in the finished products is far below the recommended limits for Germany (20mg/kg) or Canada (10mg/kg). The outcome of this work delivers information about the current situation on the European market and provides information to policy-makers about the quantities of lead in lip articles and technically achievable levels.

Statins in coronary artery bypass grafting surgery: lipid lowering and beyond

Statin treatment has been established as a key therapeutic option in cardiovascular disease. Through their ability to inhibit HMG-CoA reductase, statins reduce hepatic production of low-density lip...

Temporalis Fascia for Lip Augmentation

Background: The pervasiveness of the desire for beautiful lips persists today, with women in the United States spending almost 2.9 billion dollars annually on cosmetics and lip products. The lips occupy the central feature of the lower third of the face and are of paramount importance to facial beauty. Various surgical approaches and methods are used in lip augmentation. Methods: We reviewed the charts of 7 patients who underwent temporalis fascia lip augmentation to evaluate the temporalis fascia as a safe and effective means for lip augmentation. Results: The average follow-up was 5 years (range, 4–6 years). All patients who underwent lip augmentation were female. The average age of the patients was 47 years old with a range of 36 to 67 years. All patients were very satisfied with the results of their surgical lip augmentation postoperatively and no patients required any revision operations. Conclusion: Temporalis fascia is a safe method of lip augmentation and is durable and long lasting. Lip augmentation with temporalis fascia can easily be performed in conjunction with other procedures.

Parameter optimization for production of ligninolytic enzymes using agro-industrial wastes by response surface method

Lignin and manganese peroxidase (LiP, MnP) and laccase production by Phanerocheate chrysosporium was optimized by response surface methodology for brewery waste and apple pomace. The effect of moisture, copper sulphate, and veratryl alcohol (VA) concentrations on enzyme production was studied. Moisture and VA had significant positive effect on MnP and LiP production and the viability of P. chrysosporium (p < 0.05) and copper sulphate produced a negative effect. However, moisture and copper sulphate had a significant positive (p < 0.05) effect on laccase production, but VA had an insignificant positive effect (p < 0.05). Higher values of MnP, LiP and viability of P. chrysosporium on apple pomace (1287.5 U MnP/gds (units/gram dry substrate), 305 U LiP/gds, and 10.38 Log 10 viability) and brewery waste (792 U MnP/gds and 9.83 Log 10 viability) were obtained with 80% moisture, 3 mmol/kg VA, and 0.5 mmol/kg copper. LiP production in brewery waste (7.87 U/gds) was maximal at 70% moisture, 2 mmol/kg VA, and 1 mmol/kg copper. Higher production of laccase in apple pomace (789 U/gds) and brewery waste (841 U/gds) were obtained with 80% moisture, 3 mmol/kg VA, and 1.5 mmol/kg copper. Thus, moisture along with VA and copper sulphate was pertinent for the production of ligninolytic enzymes and increased cell viability.

Temporalis Fascia for Lip Augmentation

The pervasiveness of the desire for beautiful lips persists today, with women in the United States spending almost 2.9 billion dollars annually on cosmetics and lip products. The lips occupy the central feature of the lower third of the face and are of paramount importance to facial beauty. Various surgical approaches and methods are used in lip augmentation. We reviewed the charts of 7 patients who underwent temporalis fascia lip augmentation to evaluate the temporalis fascia as a safe and effective means for lip augmentation. The average follow-up was 5 years (range, 4-6 years). All patients who underwent lip augmentation were female. The average age of the patients was 47 years old with a range of 36 to 67 years. All patients were very satisfied with the results of their surgical lip augmentation postoperatively and no patients required any revision operations. Temporalis fascia is a safe method of lip augmentation and is durable and long lasting. Lip augmentation with temporalis fascia can easily be performed in conjunction with other procedures.

A GENERAL LEXICON FOR SENSORY ANALYSIS OF TEXTURE AND APPEARANCE OF LIP PRODUCTS

ABSTRACT Lip products (lipsticks, glosses and balms) are an important aspect of the cosmetics business. The lip product segment of the business has been expanding because the majority of women uses some form of lip products. In addition, men commonly use lip balm in winter months. The purpose of this three‐part study was to develop a lexicon for descriptive sensory testing of lip products. In the first study, two focus groups were conducted to understand women's perceptions of lip products and elicit desirable and undesirable characteristics in the products. In the second study, six highly trained panelists from the Sensory Analysis Center at Kansas State University developed a lexicon using five samples each of lip balms, lip glosses and lipsticks. All attributes were measured during or after application. Attributes were categorized under “initial texture,”“initial appearance,”“after appearance” and “after texture.” The lexicon comprised of 18 terms. The panelists developed definitions, references and protocols for evaluation for each attribute in the lexicon. The third study consisted of a validation phase, in which 12 samples, four from each product segment, were used. The lexicon developed in this study was inclusive enough to show distinctions between and within the lip glosses, lip balms and lipsticks. This lexicon could be used to identify similarities and differences in other lip products such as lip plumper, lip liners and multi use products. PRACTICAL APPLICATIONSThe lip product lexicon may benefit researchers and cosmetic companies in product development and optimization, quality control, and marketing by providing accurate definitions, accessible references, and reproducible protocols and techniques. Aspects of this research, including the use of photographic references, where appropriate, could be extrapolated to other aspects of the personal care industry, such as hair care and skin care, and can aid in product development and product optimization.

Concentration of fungal ligninolytic enzymes by ultrafiltration and their use in distillery effluent decolorization

Extracellular ligninolytic enzymes secreted by seven different fungi grown under solid-state fermentation using agro-residue as substrate were extracted through successive extractions. In general, most of the enzymes were recovered during first and second extractions. These extractants were then subjected to ultrafiltration using a 10 kDa membrane for further concentration. The permeates collected after every filtration and the final retentate were analyzed for protein and enzymes. In all the isolates, enzyme concentration was maximum in first retentate, which reduced significantly in second, third, and fourth retentate. Maximum per unit laccase (14.44 U g−1) and MnP production (142.2 U g−1) was observed in Fusarium verticillioides TERIDB16 while maximum LiP production (137.42 U g−1) was in Alternaria gaisen TERIDB6. The retentate was further used for checking its decolorization efficiency of undiluted distillery effluent. The maximum decolorization (37%) was obtained using the enzyme extract of Pleurotus florida EM1303.

The white-rot fungus Phanerochaete chrysosporium: conditions for the production of lignin-degrading enzymes

Investigating optimal conditions for lignin-degrading peroxidases production by Phanerochaete chrysosporium (P. chrysosporium) has been a topic for numerous researches. The capability of P. chrysosporium for producing lignin peroxidases (LiPs) and manganese peroxidases (MnPs) makes it a model organism of lignin-degrading enzymes production. Focusing on compiling and identifying the factors that affect LiP and MnP production by P. chrysosporium, this critical review summarized the main findings of about 200 related research articles. The major difficulty in using this organism for enzyme production is the instability of its productivity. This is largely due to the poor understanding of the regulatory mechanisms of P. chrysosporium responding to different nutrient sources in the culture medium, such as metal elements, detergents, lignin materials, etc. In addition to presenting the major conclusions and gaps of the current knowledge on lignin-degrading peroxidases production by P. chrysosporium, this review has also suggested further work, such as correlating the overexpression of the intra and extracellular proteins to the nutrients and other culture conditions to discover the regulatory cascade in the lignin-degrading peroxidases production process, which may contribute to the creation of improved P. chrysosporium strains leading to stable enzyme production.

Enhanced C/EBPβ‐LIP production by oltipraz leads to inhibition of preadipocyte differentiation as a result of CUGBP1 activation

The C/EBPβ isoforms, “full-length” LAP and truncated dominant-negative LIP, differentially regulate adipogenesis. We previously demonstrated that oltipraz, a cancer chemopreventive agent, promotes LAP activation in hepatocytes. In this study, we investigated the effect of oltipraz on adipocyte differentiation and its molecular basis. Oltipraz markedly inhibited 3T3-L1 preadipocyte differentiation. The expression of LIP notably increased after oltipraz treatment of 3T3-L1 preadipocytes, whereas that of LAP was minimally changed. Oltipraz treatment significantly elevated the ratio of LIP to LAP, enhancing the levels of nuclear LIP and LAP and their binding to the C/EBP binding site. Cotransfection with LIP interfered with LAP-mediated luciferase expression, confirming the role of LIP in the gene repression. Similarly, LAP-mediated luciferase gene transactivation was inhibited by oltipraz, as was observed by cotransfection of AC/EBP. Oltipraz enhanced cytoplasmic translocation and RNA binding of CUGBP1, but not calreticulin, another RNA binding protein that interacts with C/EBPβ mRNA. Oltipraz-mediated LIP production, accompanying inhibition of hormone-induced adipocyte differentiation, was also observed in primary-cultured rat preadipocytes. In conclusion, oltipraz inhibits adipogenesis by promoting LIP production and activation, and the enhanced LIP production accompanies cytoplasmic translocation of CUGBP1 and its binding to the GC rich region of C/EBPβ mRNA. Our finding holds significance that adipogenesis can be pharmacologically controlled by LIP production. (Supported by #R02-2004-000-10010-0, KOSEF)

Immobilisation and biofilm development of Phanerochaete chrysosporium on polysulphone and ceramic membranes

In the design of a membrane bioreactor, the membrane morphology is a very important aspect, as the membrane should be developed or chosen to provide maximum surface area and an ideal environment for biofilm development. An investigation was carried out to identify membranes suitable for spore immobilisation, biofilm development and extracellular enzyme production from Phanerochaete chrysosporium. An internally skinned capillary polysulphone, two tubular aluminium oxide ceramic membranes with an average pore size of 0.2 and 3 μm respectively and one capillary titanium oxide ceramic membrane with an average pore size of 3 μm were identified and tested. The highest attachment and immobilisation of spores were observed on the capillary membranes with less on the tubular ceramic membranes. On average biofilm thicknesses of 1140 μm were developed on the 3 μm capillary ceramic membrane, 830 μm on the capillary polysulphone membrane, 400 μm on the 3 μm tubular ceramic membrane with only 40 μm on the 0.2 μm tubular ceramic membrane. Continuous LiP and MnP enzyme production was achieved with both the polysulphone and capillary ceramic membrane reactors and no activity was detected with the tubular ceramic membrane reactors. However, for day-to-day operation of the reactor, the ceramic membranes were more rigid, mechanically stable and could be chemically and steam cleaned for re-use.

A new multifunctional, shine‐enhancing emollient: PPG‐3 benzyl ether myristate

A new emollient ester--Crodamol STS (INCI name: PPG-3 Benzyl Ether Myristate) has been developed and characterized. This special non-volatile emollient is safe to use and provides silicone-like feel and multiple cosmetic functionality. It is a liquid with a viscosity about 100 cps at room temperature. It has a high refractive index--1.4696, which enhances hair shine, contributes to high gloss in lip products, and reduces whitening effect of fatty alcohols and silica in anti-perspirants/deodorants applications. This emollient has high solubility of UV filters, low skin-spreading factor, and good pigment wetting behavior, which are preferable in sunscreen and make-up formulas to enhance the pigment localization and improve SPF value. In this paper, the chemical structure, physical properties, and various cosmetic applications of the emollient will be discussed. Especially, an objective hair shine (luster) test method (color image analysis) has been established and applied to study the enhancement in hair shine by Crodamol STS in hair spray and hair gel formulations. The objective measurements in hair shine showed good agreement with the results obtained from subjective evaluations. The substantivity of Crodamol STS on hair surface, which was delivered from a rinse-off cream, was also determined by a solvent extraction method.

The porcine snout – an in vitro model for human lips?

The morphology and histology of test sites commonly used to study the penetration of lip products differ significantly from those of the human lip itself. The aim of this study was to investigate whether the porcine snout could serve as an equivalent in vitro model for human lips. The lips of human test subjects and biopsies of porcine snout tissue were compared using histological and microscopic techniques. Using a dermatological laser scanning microscope, the penetration of topically applied fluorescent sodium fluorescein was investigated in vivo on human lips and in vitro on the porcine snout. Biopsies from the in vitro experiments were studied using fluorescence microscopy. Some parts of the porcine snout show a similar morphology and histology as human lips. The stratum corneum (SC) and the epidermis of the porcine snout are thicker than those of human tissue. Both in vivo and in vitro, the topically applied fluorescent dye was detected only on the skin surface and within the uppermost SC layer. These results indicate that porcine snout can be used as an in vitro model for human lips in penetration studies. Both human and porcine tissues exhibit an efficient barrier against the penetration of topically applied substances.

Allergic Contact Cheilitis in the United Kingdom: A Retrospective Study

Background: To date, only a few cohorts of patients with allergic cheilitis have been described, most of them from Australia and Asia. Objective: To establish the prevalence of cheilitis in a UK specialist contact dermatitis clinic and to identify the most common allergens. Method: We analyzed our patch-test database in a tertiary referral center in the United Kingdom, retrospectively. All patients presenting with cheilitis over a 19-year period (1982 to 2001) were included. Results: Data were available from a total of 146 patients. A positive allergic patch-test reaction was thought to be relevant in 15% of the patients (n= 22) and to be of possible relevance in 6.8% (n= 10). Of the 22 patients with relevant allergic results, 95% (n= 21) were women. The most common allergens included fragrance mix (mainly cinnamaldehyde, oak moss, and isoeugenol) in 41% of patients, shellac in 18%, colophony in 18%, andMyroxylon pereiraein 14%. For half of the patients, the allergen was believed to stem from lipsticks or lip products. Eighteen percent of patients with allergic cheilitis reacted to only their own products. Conclusions: Patients should be tested to extended lipstick/cosmetic vehicle series in addition to standard series. As a significant percentage of patients react to their own products only, a thorough clinical history and testing to patients' own products are important.

Computer‐Aided Geometrical Analysis of the Fluting Operation for Twist Drill Design and Production. I. Forward Analysis and Generated Flute Profile

A computer‐aided ‘forward’ analysis, based on a typical automated flute grinder used in drill production, has been developed to study the flute generation process and the intended or design flute profile of twist drills. It has been shown that the flute grinder involved three machine setting variables and seven wheel profile variables for generating the flute for each drill specification. Based on the recommended wheel profile and machine settings, the forward analysis has shown that the flute profile was partly generated by the ‘envelope’ of the wheel profiles and partly by the locus of the point of discontinuity on the wheel profile. Furthermore, these numerical simulation studies have shown that the intended or design lip flute profile closely approximated the ideal profile for straight lip production while the heel profile closely approximated a parabolic curve tangential to the core or web diameter and passing through the heel corner. Numerical simulation of the effect of the machine settings has shown that the wheel setting angle has to be set greater than the specified helix angle in order to avoid undercutting and generate the intended flute profile for straight lip production while the other setting variables had no major influence on the generated flute profile in practice. Apart from clarifying longstanding ambiguities in the geometry and specification of flute profile of twist drills, this investigation has provided essential information for the development of the ‘backward’ analysis considered in the next paper.

Allergic Contact Cheilitis in the United Kingdom: A Retrospective Study

To date, only a few cohorts of patients with allergic cheilitis have been described, most of them from Australia and Asia. To establish the prevalence of cheilitis in a UK specialist contact dermatitis clinic and to identify the most common allergens. We analyzed our patch-test database in a tertiary referral center in the United Kingdom, retrospectively. All patients presenting with cheilitis over a 19-year period (1982 to 2001) were included. Data were available from a total of 146 patients. A positive allergic patch-test reaction was thought to be relevant in 15% of the patients (n = 22) and to be of possible relevance in 6.8% (n = 10). Of the 22 patients with relevant allergic results, 95% (n = 21) were women. The most common allergens included fragrance mix (mainly cinnamaldehyde, oak moss, and isoeugenol) in 41% of patients, shellac in 18%, colophony in 18%, and Myroxylon pereirae in 14%. For half of the patients, the allergen was believed to stem from lipsticks or lip products. Eighteen percent of patients with allergic cheilitis reacted to only their own products. Patients should be tested to extended lipstick/cosmetic vehicle series in addition to standard series. As a significant percentage of patients react to their own products only, a thorough clinical history and testing to patients' own products are important.

Effects of Zn2+ and Cu2+ on growth, lignin degradation and ligninolytic enzymes in Phanerochaete chrysosporium

The influence of Zn2+ (6.0 × 10−3 –18.0 × 10−3μM) and Cu2+ (4 × 10−4 –1.2 × 10−4μM) in the basal medium on mycelial growth (dry weight), activities of lignin peroxidase (Lip), manganese peroxidase (Mnp), solubilization, and mineralization (14CO2 evolution) of lignin during a period of 3 weeks was studied in Phanerochaete chrysosporium strain MTCC-787. Highest mycelial growth was obtained at 0.6 μM Zn2+ and 0.4 μM Cu2+ levels. Enzyme activities were found to increase up to the highest levels of both the trace elements. However, Zn2+ had a relatively more stimulatory effect on Lip production and the reverse was true in case of Cu2+. [14C]Lignin solubilization was also promoted by higher levels of both trace elements. Mineralization of [14C]lignin was optimal at 6.0 μM Zn2+ and 1.2 μM Cu2+. The stimulatory effect of Zn2+ on Lip production was correlated with higher rates of [14C]lignin mineralization.