Leather Items Research Articles

The fabric of our memories: Leather, kinship, and queer material history

This article examines how the practices of self-preservation and other-directed care within Baltimore’s gay leather community are entangled with the material fabric of leather. I argue that leather forms a mnemonic technology that mediates between intimate experience and collective memory, thereby enabling leathermen to develop affective attachments to both the past and the future of their shared form of life. Ultimately, my aim is to attend to the relation between memory and materiality, asking how the material qualities of leather, as treated animal skin, evoke, store, and shape memories and, vice versa, how such memories imbue leather items with emotional, cultural, and political values.

A multi-analytical approach to gold in Ancient Egypt: Studies on provenance and corrosion

Recent results from a three-year multi-disciplinary project on Ancient Egyptian gold jewellery revealed that items of jewellery from the Middle Kingdom to the New Kingdom were manufactured using a variety of alluvial gold alloys. These alloys cover a wide range of colours and the majority contain Platinum Group Elements inclusions. However, in all the gold foils analysed, these inclusions were found to be absent. In this work a selection of gilded wood and leather items and gold foil fragments, all from the excavations by John Garstang at Abydos (primarily from Middle Kingdom graves), were examined using Scanning Electron Microscopy-Energy Disperse Spectroscopy (SEM-EDS), X-Ray Fluorescence (μXRF), Particle Induced X-Ray Emission (µPIXE) and Double Dispersive X-Ray Fluorescence (D2XRF). The work allowed us to characterise the composition of the base-alloys and also to reveal the presence of Pt at trace levels, confirming the use of alluvial gold deposits. Corrosion products were also investigated in the foils where surface tarnish was visually observed. Results showed that the differences in the colour of corrosion observed for the foils are related not only to the thickness of the corrosion layer but also to a multi-layer structure containing the various corrosion products.

Importance of reproductive biology of a harvest lizard, Tupinambis merianae, for the management of commercial harvesting

Context Management of the exploitation of resources requires biological information on exploited species. The skins of large reptiles have a commercial value as luxury leather items and Tupinambis lizards from southern South America have historically been exploited for this purpose. Argentina implemented management plans for Tupinambis lizards since 1988 that established a minimum capture size based on the width of dried skins, but this prescription has not been linked to local reproductive attributes of species. Aim In this study, we aim to determine the reproductive parameters of Tupinambis merianae and evaluate which class sizes of individuals are susceptible to commercial trade in central Argentina to generate local and species-specific information to improve available management tools. Methods We determined the relationship between the width of dried skins and live body sizes. We identified size at sexual maturity in males and females. Moreover, we determined status of reproductive individuals by body size and characterised gonadal development and seasonal reproductive events in central Argentina. We evaluated the relationship between female body size and clutch size. Key results Reproduction of T. merianae in central Argentina is markedly seasonal, with both sexes concentrating their reproductive activities between October and December. Size at sexual maturity was smaller for males than females, and the percentage of reproductive females was lower than males. In both sexes, the frequency of reproductive individuals was low in smaller lizards, and bigger females had bigger clutch size. The width of dried skins was positively related to body size. Conclusions Size at sexual maturity, and reproductive period, should be taken into account when management plans are designed to minimise any negative impacts of harvesting. Implications In central Argentina, the breeding season coincides with hunting periods set by national legislation. The results of our study have prompted local authorities to impose hunting closures for part of December and to raise the minimum catch size. Further, we offer an equation that can be used as a monitoring tool for estimating snout to vent length of live animals from skins. Studies like ours should be replicated in different areas and extrapolated to other models.

Consumer leather exposure: an unrecognized cause of cobalt sensitization

A patient who had suffered from persistent generalized dermatitis for 7 years was diagnosed with cobalt sensitization, and his leather couch was suspected as the culprit, owing to the clinical presentation mimicking allergic chromium dermatitis resulting from leather furniture exposure. The cobalt spot test, X-ray fluorescence, inductively coupled plasma mass spectrometry and scanning electron microscopy were used to determine cobalt content and release from the leather couch that caused the dermatitis and from 14 randomly collected samples of furniture leather. The sample from the patient's leather couch, but none of the 14 random leather samples, released cobalt in high concentrations. Dermatitis cleared when the patient stopped using his couch. Cobalt is used in the so-called pre-metallized dyeing of leather products. Repeated studies have found high levels of cobalt sensitization, but not nickel sensitization, in patients with foot dermatitis. We raise the possibility that cobalt may be widely released from leather items, and advise dermatologists to consider this in patients with positive cobalt patch test reactions.

The impact of common metal allergens in daily devices

We are widely exposed to metal allergens in our daily doings. As exposures constantly changes because of fashion trends and technological developments, there is a need for a continuous update of patch testers. An overview of consumer metal exposure studies that have been published in 2012 and 2013 is provided as well as lists of common metal exposures. Nickel release in concentrations that cause nickel allergy and contact dermatitis is seen from laptop computers. Cobalt is found in leather as a dye and may cause chronic dermatitis. Chromium is used as a dye and for tanning in leather items and is found in nearly all shoes and released from a high proportion. New consumer items should continuously be considered and investigated for metal release when patients with positive patch test results to metal allergens are evaluated.

Classification of synthetic polyurethane leather by mechanical properties according to consumers’ preference for fashion items

This study aims to evaluate the effect of mechanical properties on consumers’ preference for fashion leather items, and to classify them by the mechanical properties of synthetic leather. Mechanical properties were measured by the KES-FB system and a survey of experts was conducted with a preference evaluation for various items using 15 types of synthetic polyurethane leather. More easily transformable and lighter leathers are preferred for clothing, while the leathers that have better dimensional stability are preferred for purses, bags, shoes, and boots, and those with smooth surface are preferred for furniture. Furthermore, synthetic leathers were classified into three clusters by mechanical properties. There was no difference between clusters in preference for non-clothing item, because no perception of various mechanical properties was caused by the structural characteristics of each items by design. On the other hand, for clothing items, consumers’ preferences are significantly affected by mechanical properties.

Preliminary observations on the use of low temperatures in the cultural heritage protection

Each insect species has different temperature optima: the more this parameter deviates from these values the more the insect suffers negative consequences, up to the death. Temperature can be easily editable. Therefore, the application of low temperatures may represent a physical method for the protection of valuable cultural objects, alternative, for example, to chemical ones. In this paper we report laboratory tests results, carried out on <em>Trogoderma inclusum</em> LeConte (Coleoptera: Dermestidae), a species harmful to leather items such as bindings of books and mummies, in order to reach its control by applying low temperatures. The tests were conducted using specimens obtained from laboratorybreeding blocks maintained at 27 ± 2°C and 75 ± 5% R.H., in a temperaturecontrolled room of the Institute of Entomology and Plant Pathology, Piacenza. The aim of the tests was to determine the time necessary to obtain the total mortality of the different instars of development at temperatures of -10°C and -20°C. The insects, in the various instars of development of egg, larva, pupa and adult, were treated with low temperatures in two different ways: - inserting the Petri dishes containing the insects directly in the freezer without any protection, in order to obtain an immediate lowering of the temperature, and - inserting the Petri dish in a niche carved in an old book so that the lowering of the temperature is gradual. In some cases the insects were kept at +4°C for a time before the test to determine whether exposure to low temperature before treatment could induce a resistance to it. The results show that the method can be validly applied for cultural heritage objects protection, attacked by the species concerned.

HHV supports creative expression as rehabilitative tool

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED] Help Hospitalized Veterans (HHV) is the nation's largest supplier of therapeutic arts and crafts kits used within the Department of Veterans Affairs (VA) and military hospitals. Since its inception, HHV has delivered more than 25 million kits, along with other products and services, valued at (including shipping) $410 million. All products and services are provided free of charge to more than 300 medical facilities that care for our hospitalized veterans and active-duty military personnel. HHV provides over 350 different kits, including leather items, sun-catchers, paint-by-numbers, latch-hook rugs, poster art, plastic and wood models/crafts, and many more. The kits are rehabilitative devices designed to restore coordination and impaired motor skills, improve attention spans and concentration, and relax frayed nerves. They are also a diversion therapy and entertainment outlet for those veterans who are facing extended hospitalization and/or confinement. Additionally, HHV has provided other products and services to homebound veterans and cash support to many of VA's annual special events. HHV'S CRAFT CARE SPECIALIST PROGRAM To ensure maximum craft kit availability, HHV supplements VA staff by employing 62 craft care specialists (CCSs) to work in VA and military hospitals. The primary role of a CCS is to distribute craft kits, participate in the veteran's rehabilitation program, and recommend craft kits suitable for each veteran's condition and skill level, often helping the veteran enhance the finished product. By working closely with hospitalized veterans, CCSs offer meaningful interaction and boost morale. CCSs also conduct arts and crafts workshops in the hospitals they serve, greatly increasing craft kit participation. CCSs also help recruit volunteers for the VA Voluntary Service program. [ILLUSTRATION OMITTED] ACCOUNTABILITY AND PERFORMANCE MEASUREMENT In today's environment, accountability is an especially pressing concern. Organizations are competing--each must be prepared to demonstrate empirically that their program is appropriate, available, timely, effective, safe, efficient, continuous, respectful, and caring. HHV took a far-reaching step by initiating a performance measurement study to determine the effectiveness of its programs and promote understanding and support for hospitalized veterans [1]. The study demonstrated the therapeutic value of HHV's craft kit program to veteran patients, host hospitals, and HHV's generous donors. Measurement is by no means unfamiliar in healthcare. VA, military, and private sector health organizations routinely measure responses to therapy, staffing levels, and cost. However, to our knowledge, no organization similar to HHV has ever conducted a study on arts and crafts used in a therapeutic setting. Four levels of difficulty were assigned to each craft kit category, with level one being the simplest and four the most difficult, as evidenced by the average number of hours it took a patient to complete a particular kit. This voluntary initiative allowed HHV to quantify its craft kit program performance with measures of patient health outcome, satisfaction, and effectiveness of the CCS program. Health Care Data, Inc. (HCD) studied HHV programs in 13 VA hospitals and state veterans nursing homes. DATA COLLECTION Each medical facility was given a user manual and computer disk to use in the collection of data. Outcome measurement data were collected during 1 week of each quarter by the therapists or CCSs and submitted to HCD. Innumerable outcomes could produce meaningful data. This initial data collection system targeted only 10 outcome measures. These 10 were chosen for their general applicability and the perceived need for accurate data in these areas: * Aggregate Performance measure based on collection and accumulation of data about many events. …

The USA's international trade in fish leather, from a conservation perspective

This paper provides the first analysis of imports and exports of fish leather by the USA. Estimates of minimum levels of trade were obtained from the records of the United States Fish and Wildlife Service for 1997–2001, and possible conservation consequences were considered. Data show that imported leather items used the skins of at least 51 types of fish. Of the 41 identified to species level, six were freshwater fish, eight diadromous and 27 were fully marine. Eels and hagfishes (marketed as ‘eelskin’; eight named species), stingrays (10 named species) and sharks (15 named species) dominated the trade. An average of 725 000 fish-leather products, worth over US$ 6 million, was imported each year to the USA. A significant decline in fish leather imports over the five-year period studied derived largely from changes in ‘eelskin’ imports. Fish leather in the USA was reportedly sourced primarily from the Republic of Korea, mainland China and Thailand, although the records were flawed. About 93% of leather products were obtained from wild fish. Exports from the USA totalled approximately 5% of imports by volume. Many of the fish species comprising the largest imports for leather were characterized by low resilience to exploitation, with one-third of known species considered threatened or near threatened by the World Conservation Union (IUCN). This pilot assessment indicates the need for better record keeping if sustainability of fish exploitation for leather is to be evaluated.