Leather Footwear Research Articles

Woven, Knitted, and Wattled 17th–18th Century Textiles from Tara Fortress, Western Siberia

During the excavations of Tara Fortress, conducted since 2009, numerous structures and artifacts made of organic materials were revealed in 17th–18th century habitation levels at a depth of 2.5–4 m: remains of wooden dwellings and utility constructions, leather footwear, wooden chess fi gures, children’s toys, wooden and birch-bark vessels, dashers, birch-bark and pine-bark fl oats. A number of artifacts woven, knitted, and wattled from vegetable fibers and horsehair were discovered. They fall into several categories: textiles of linen, twill, and rep weave, ropes and cords, and vessels for storing solids. Their study allowed us to reconstruct the techniques of their manufacture, to compare these artifacts with similar fi nds from Western Siberia, to assess the conditions of manufacture, and to evaluate the weavers’ skills.

A quick scan audit of the 'socio-technical' system in a leather accessories manufacturing SME

Leather fashion and footwear industry contributes significantly to the Indian economy through employment generation and earning foreign exchange. Both public and private sectors have increasingly emphasised on the planned development of this industry and encourage more SME involvement and participation. However, recent studies indicate that Indian leather manufacturing SMEs are, often, unable to compete effectively and efficiently on a global platform due to certain inherent and external constraints. This paper adopts a case research methodology with 'quick-scan' audit tool to review the socio-technical system of a leather export SME. It draws attention to the inefficiencies in the production system and highlights the human resource 'gaps' faced by the company. The two-fold findings of the case investigation point to a need to develop 'social' competencies not only in an individual organisation but also at the sectorial level. The selected case has been used as a fundamental prism through which current labour regulations and standards prevailing in the country need to be examined and possibly reformed.

Study on the Impact of Marketing Mix on Export Performance - vis-a-vis the Leather Footwear Exporting SMEs of India

Theory often suggests that having a suitable marketing mix and market orientation can enhance the export performance of any firm. Keeping this in mind, this paper wishes to examine the relationship between the market mix strategies (with respect to place, product, price and promotion) and export performance. This exploration has been done in the exporting leather footwear SME segment with 174 firms as sample size from four different clusters within India. The findings suggest that though the exporting firms are at a comfortable zone as far as their export destinations (strategy with respect to place) is concerned; they by and large are at a huge gap with respect to the product, pricing and promotional strategies and thus are losing out considerably as far as their export performance is concerned.

Organizational Buying Behavior of Selected Leather Footwear Exporting Companies in Addis Ababa, Ethiopia

The purpose of this study is to assess the buying behavior of the Ethiopian leather footwear exporting companies in terms of supplier selection criteria, buying center, and factors affecting the purchasing process. In order to achieve the objective, a multiple case study approach is used in three case companies. The companies are Anbessa Shoe Share Company, Tikur Abbay Shoe Share Company and Peacock Shoe Company. The source of evidence is a personal interview conducted with the three case company managers. Furthermore, the data was evaluated using within-case analysis for easy data reduction, data display and drawing and verifying conclusions followed by a cross-case analysis. And the results indicated that quality and delivery are the most important criteria by case companies. Production facilities and capacity, financial position, procedural compliance and communication system are considerably important. The buying centers communication network and player in straight re-buy is the same as in modified re-buy. Likely, the roles in the buying center in both straight re-buy and modified re-buy is similar. Finally, the environmental, organizational, buying center and individual factors are influencing the buying process of the case companies. Thus, managers should clearly realize their buying center activities and internal and external factors in order to have smooth relationships with the finished leather suppliers and improve their footwear export performances. Keywords : organizational buying behavior, supplier selection criteria, buying center

Positioning women homeworkers in a global footwear production network: How can homeworkers improve agency, influence and claim rights?

This article analyses the position of women footwear homeworkers, using global production networks as a conceptual lens. Using qualitative data collected in India during 2011 to 2014, it illustrates the asymmetry of power between network actors and attests to the poverty, invisibility and lack of acknowledgement and representation characterising leather footwear homework. It represents leather footwear homeworkers as working from the margins of these networks, with weak links to most other actors in the networks. The paper interrogates how marginalised and informal workers might increase their agency and participation capacity in global production networks, and proposes that this can occur through support and organising undertaken by appropriate non-governmental organisations.

Investigating the relationship between corporate entrepreneurship and employee engagement

Purpose– The purpose of this study is to investigate the relationship between corporate entrepreneurship and employee engagement. Corporate entrepreneurship is one of the widely researched areas recently, as is employee engagement. Studies combining the two constructs, on the other hand, are generally scarce. Developing on this gap and based on existing literature, the basic purpose this study pursued was to explore the relationship between corporate entrepreneurship and employee engagement using the corporate entrepreneurship assessment instrument (CEAI) and Utrecht Work Engagement Scale (UWES).Design/methodology/approach– Within the tenets of the pragmatic approach, this study followed a descriptive survey design in a cross-sectional time. To capture primary data structured questionnaire was constructed based on the CEAI developed by Hornsbyet al.(2002) for assessing the corporate entrepreneurial atmosphere and UWES (Schaufeliet al., 2002) to assess employee engagement. The sample constitutes 332 respondents taken from six leather footwear companies in Addis Ababa, Ethiopia. The social exchange theory (SET) was used to describe the hypothesised relationships.Findings– The findings of the current study reinforced the proposition by Saks (2006) that the SET can provide a meaningful theoretical basis for understanding and studying employee engagement. Accordingly, this study showed that the relationship between the organisation and its employees can be viewed as a mutually beneficial arrangement in a reciprocal exchange. Furthermore, it was shown that the five-factor model of the CEAI can be used to predict employee engagement and that a significant amount of the deviation in the engagement dimensions can be explained by the corporate entrepreneurial variables. Finally, it was indicated that different variables in the CEAI predict different engagement dimensions in the UWES.Research limitations/implications– This study does not group the data based on demographic factors. Likewise, future studies can explore the effect of the CEAI on the dimensions of employee engagement, while considering different demographic groups like salary ranges, age groups, gender, experience, work position. Furthermore, the current study applies cross-sectional data; future studies might consider longitudinal data for better results.Practical implications– The study findings suggest that it is important that practicing managers view the relationship between the organisation and employees as a two-way relationship guided by reciprocal exchange in which case when firm-specific entrepreneurial atmosphere is conducive, employees would respond by engaging themselves innovatively. Also, managers should know which CEAI variables affect which engagement dimensions for better outcomes.Originality/value– Although there are scattered studies in corporate entrepreneurship and employee engagement separately, there is no attempt so far to relate the two concepts. Therefore, this study stood as a first attempt to relate the two constructs.

Positioning Women Homeworkers in a Global Footwear Production Network: Identifying Barriers and Enablers to Claiming Rights

This paper theorises the position of women footwear homeworkers through the lens of global production networks. Using data collected in India during 2011 to 2014, it illustrates the asymmetry of power between network actors, and attests to the poverty, invisibility and lack of acknowledgement and representation characterising leather footwear homework. It represents leather footwear homeworkers as working from the margins of these networks, with weak links to most other actors in the networks. Drawing from the concept of social upgrading and bringing in concepts from network regulation, the paper asks questions relating to how marginalised and informal workers might increase the power and capacity of their participation in GPNs.

A Quantitative Analysis Determining the Performance of Small and Medium Enterprises (SMEs) in Leather Footwear Production in Selected Common Market for Eastern and Southern African (COMESA) Countries

A study using quantitative analysis determined the performance of Small and Medium Enterprises (SMEs) involved in the production of leather footwear and other leather products. The study was carried out in February 2014 in selected countries with no previous baseline studies related to SME’s associated with the leather sector. Therefore, the study covered Burundi, Kenya, Rwanda, Uganda and Zimbabwe. The main objective was to identify critical factors that undermine the growth of these SMEs’ with regard to turnover, employment, exports and profitability. Seventy-six SMEs were interviewed during the study period with data collection using a semi-structured questionnaire, visits to production units, discussion with key informants and involving a consultative review which encompassed different documents and reports. The outcome of the interview was then expressed as numerical attributes depicting various results of measured variables. For example, the demographic trends indicated average number of employees per SME ranged from 2.68 ±1.16 persons for Zimbabwe to 11.38 ±12.26 persons for Kenya with an overall average for all the sample countries standing at 5.5± 6.18 persons. The study further showed that Females represented more than one third of the employees in all the countries sampled. Production wise on average, SMEs produced 18.9 ±22.7 and 27.8 ±43.3 pairs per day for men and ladies shoes respectively. On the other hand the average output for School shoes and Sandals stood at, 26.5 ±33.5 and 25.5 ±21.3 respectively. The labour productivity per day was 3.4 pairs for men shoes, 5 pairs for ladies shoes, 4.8 pairs for school shoes and 4.6 pairs for sandals. Thus, the study demonstrated that based on average productivity of above ten pairs per person observed in India and China, the performance of the selected countries SMEs were dismal with respect to productivity. The lowered productivity meant the SMEs were uncompetitive and unable to meet market demand at the national and regional level. Mostly, their shortcomings were related to a plethora of challenges being faced by these SMEs where overall citations in decreasing order were lack of machineries, raw material problem (availability, cost and quality), financial problem (working capital) and market problem among others. Therefore, interventions that promote SMEs development need to address the stated challenges that the sector is currently facing in a holistic manner.

Footloose and duty-free? Reflections on European Union – Anti-Dumping Measures on Certain Footwear from China

AbstractEuropean Union (EU) anti-dumping duties imposed on Chinese leather footwear imports led to a challenge before the WTO Dispute Settlement body. The Panel ruled that the EU's presumption that Chinese exporters are subject to economy-wide non-market-economy anti-dumping duties was inconsistent with WTO obligations. The EU declined to appeal this outcome and subsequently changed its anti-dumping regulation in response. This dispute also illustrates the rapidly changing structure of global manufacturing and how these changes can scramble the traditional political economy of import restrictions. In addition, the case highlights how EU members' positions on trade remedy actions can depend importantly on national production patterns and firms' responses to economic pressures from globalization and the further development of global supply chains.

The Footwear of Klaipėda Dwellers in the 16th and 17th Centuries

This report reviews leather footwear discovered during the latest archaeological research in Klaipėda, in investigations carried out at 3 Kurpių St in 2007 and 2008, and at 10 Žvejų St in 2006 (headed by R. Braciulienė). Another aim is to present examples of the footwear of Klaipėda dwellers in the 16th and 17th centuries which are of interest in terms of their shape and style, and which are typical of the shoes of the West European Renaissance and of the townsfolk of the Early Modern Period. The following types of footwear are presented: primitive shoes, low-cut shoes, mules and children’s shoes. The report describes the parts of the footwear, joining methods, seams and decorative components. It discusses differences between the footwear of the 16th and the 17th centuries, and refers to morphological studies and microchemical analyses of archaeological leather and thread fibre conducted by other experts. DOI: http://dx.doi.org/ 10.15181/ab.v16i0.42 Key words: archaeology, footwear, shoes, primitive shoe, low-cut shoe.

Chromium in leather footwear—risk assessment of chromium allergy and dermatitis

Chromium-tanned leather footwear, which releases >3 ppm hexavalent Cr(VI), may pose a risk of sensitizing and eliciting allergic dermatitis. To determine the content and potential release of chromium in leather footwear and to discuss the prevention of chromium contact allergy and dermatitis. Sixty pairs of leather shoes, sandals and boots (20 children's, 20 men's, and 20 women's) were purchased in Copenhagen and examined with X-ray fluorescence spectroscopy. Chromium was extracted according to the International Standard, ISO 17075. The detection level for Cr(VI) was 3 ppm. Chromium was identified in 95% of leather footwear products, the median content being 1.7% (range 0-3.3%). No association with store category or footwear category was found. A tendency for there to be a higher chromium content in footwear with high prices was shown (p(trend) = 0.001). Cr(VI) was extracted from 44% of 18 footwear products, and, in three items, more than 10 ppm was extracted. One shoe had 62 ppm Cr(VI) extracted. Sandals seemed to be over-represented among footwear with detectable Cr(VI). Cr(III) extraction reached a median value of 152 ppm. Most leather footwear contained chromium. Cr(VI) was extracted from a high proportion of leather footwear; this poses a risk of sensitization.

In vitro micronuclei tests to evaluate the genotoxicity of surface water under the influence of tanneries

Leather manufacturing has a high potential for environmental pollution due to hides and chemicals that are not completely absorbed during the tanning process. This study aims to investigate the mutagenic potential of surface water samples from Cadeia and Feitoria rivers (RS, Brazil) in areas influenced by tanneries and leather footwear industry. Micronucleus assays using V79 cells and human lymphocytes were used. Cells were exposed to surface water collected bimonthly from three sites for a year, totaling six samples. Significant MN induction in human lymphocytes was shown by 83% of samples from sites FEI001 and CAD001 located downstream from the industrial area, followed by FEI004 (33%), upstream. Only a single sample from site FEI004 showed a positive response for MN in V79 cells. Thirteen discordant and five concordant responses were found between the two in vitro tests. Mutagenic agents were found at the sites where chemical quality was worst, corroborating studies on chronic toxicity, oxidative stress and mutagenicity performed in this area. The assay using human lymphocytes was more sensitive than V79 cells to detect the contaminants from this area, showing that it is an excellent biomarker of environmental genotoxicity.

Humans: Shoe steps out of Copper Age: Armenian cave search yields oldest known leather footwear

Humans: Shoe steps out of Copper Age: Armenian cave search yields oldest known leather footwear

Composite Material Based on Leather Footwear Waste Manufacture for Sleeper Protectors

Composite Material Based on Leather Footwear Waste Manufacture for Sleeper Protectors

Clinical profile of forefoot eczema: A study of 42 cases

Forefoot eczema (FE) is characterized by dry fissured dermatitis of the plantar surface of the feet. To study the clinical profile of FE and the possible etiological factors. Forty-two patients with FE were included in the study. A detailed history was recorded and examination done. Fungal scrapings and patch test with Indian Standard Series (ISS) were performed in all patients. The most common site affected was the plantar surface of the great toe in 16 (38.09%) patients. Hand involvement, with fissuring and soreness of the fingertips and palm, was seen in four patients (9.5%). Seven patients (16.6%) had a personal history of atopy whereas family history of atopy was present in six (14.2%). Seven patients (16.6%) reported aggravation of itching with plastic, rubber or leather footwear, and 13 (30.9%), with detergents and prolonged contact with water. Negative fungal scrapings in all patients ruled out a dermatophyte infection. Patch testing with ISS was performed in 19 patients and was positive in five. FE is a distinctive dermatosis of the second and third decade, predominantly in females, with a multifactorial etiology, possible factors being chronic irritation, atopy, footwear and seasonal influence.

Adhesives in the leather industry - perspectives for changing needs

Adhesion is a surface physico-chemical phenomenon. The nature of the adhesive joint and its mechanical properties depend strongly on the nature of the substrate and the interaction of adhesive with the substrate. The adhesives are used in a wide array of applications ranging from packaging to aircraft and spacecraft. Leather is a unique biomaterial. It has a three-dimensional fibrillar textured surface. The use of adhesives in the leather industry has been mostly confined to the production of footwear and, to some extent, in leather goods and garments. Leather articles and footwear are made using synthetic dissimilar materials, where the adhesion between the leather and other materials such as cotton fiber, nylon, polyester, and other synthetics is important. The use of adhesives in such instances requires a careful selection and application of adhesives depending on the end-use of the leather product. The present overview discusses, at length, the various aspects of usage of adhesives in the leather industry, keeping in view the perspectives for the changing needs that are emerging in the third millennium. The description of adhesives widely in use and the improvements required to meet the environmental aspects and on-line production are discussed in terms of their formulations, physical properties, cure, and substrate preparations.

Global Competition and Local Cooperation: Success and Failure in the Sinos Valley, Brazil

Recent cluster literature suggests that joint action is essential for responding successfully to major challenges. This article investigates whether enterprises in the export-oriented Sinos Valley (South of Brazil) have stepped up cooperation in response to intensified global competition in leather footwear. Using a combination of quantitative and qualitative methods, it shows a substantial increase in bilateral vertical cooperation, contributing to a major advance in raising product quality, speed of response and flexibility. In spite of these advances, the cluster has not been able to raise exports and profits have fallen. This seems related to the fact that upgrading was largely limited to the sphere of production. Upgrading in other areas such as marketing, design and image was attempted in an ambitious program of multilateral cooperation. The program failed for two reasons: some leading enterprises put their alliance with a major global buyer above cooperation with local manufacturers; and the state failed to mediate at critical moments between conflicting business associations and entrepreneurial alliances. The paper concludes with suggestions for future research on global competition and local upgrading.

7500 years of prehistoric footwear from arnold research cave, missouri

Accelerator mass spectrometer dating of an assemblage of fibrous and leather footwear from Arnold Research Cave in central Missouri documents a long sequence of shoe construction by prehistoric Midwestern peoples, beginning perhaps as early as 8300 calendar years before the present (cal years B.P.). An earlier fibrous sandal form dates from 8325 to 7675 cal years B.P., and later fibrous or leather slip-ons span the period from 5575 to 1070 cal years B.P. The assemblage adds to a growing picture of the highly varied nature of prehistoric footwear production in the United States throughout the Holocene.

Application of life cycle assessment to footwear

Life Cycle Assessment (LCA) has been applied in the leather footwear industry. Due to the fact that the goal of the study is to point those steps in the footwear cycle which contribute most to the total environmental impact, only a simplified semi-quantitative methodology is used. Background-data of all the inputs and outputs from the system have been inventoried. Impact assessment has been restricted to classification and characterisation. From the results of this LCA it has been concluded that energy consumption is an important impact generator phase, due to the characteristics of the electricity production in the studied area (Catalonia and the rest of Spain). A remarkable impact is generated in the solid waste management phase, also due to its characteristics in the studied area. Another significant impact source is the cattle raising phase where great values of Global Warming, Acidification and Eurrophication Potentials are estimated. At the tannery, a great value of water eutrophication potential is observed and this phase is also important for its non-renewable resource consumption.

Achieving automation in leather surface inspection

Reliably and effectively detecting and classifying leather surface defects are of great importance to both the tanneries and industries that use leather as a main raw material such as leather footwear and handbag manufacturers. This paper discusses some important issues on inspecting leather surfaces using the Machine Vision System. These investigations include defect detection algorithms, defect classification methods, material handling, and other aspects that are associated with this research. The proposed visual inspection system is capable of inspecting leather surfaces automatically. The expected advantages of using such system in the real production environment are also analysed.