We consider the dynamics of a periodic chain of N coupled overdamped particles under the influence of noise, in the limit of large N. Each particle is subjected to a bistable local potential, to a linear coupling with its nearest neighbours, and to an independent source of white noise. For strong coupling (of the order N2), the system synchronizes, in the sense that all particles assume almost the same position in their respective local potential most of the time. In a previous work (Berglund et al 2007 Nonlinearity 20 2551), we showed that the transition from strong to weak coupling involves a sequence of symmetry-breaking bifurcations of the system's stationary configurations. We analysed, for arbitrary N, the behaviour for coupling intensities slightly below the synchronization threshold. Here we describe the behaviour for any positive coupling intensity γ of order N2, provided the particle number N is sufficiently large (as a function of γ/N2). In particular, we determine the transition time between synchronized states, as well as the shape of the ‘critical droplet’, to leading order in 1/N. Our techniques involve the control of the exact number of periodic orbits of a near-integrable twist map, allowing us to give a detailed description of the system's potential landscape, in which the metastable behaviour is encoded.