Reviewed by: The Medieval Clothier by John S. Lee Kailen Kinsey John S. Lee, The Medieval Clothier (Woodbridge: The Boydell Press 2018 365 pp., ill. The increasingly codified and evolving industry of cloth production in late medieval and early modern England has elicited questions as to the capitalist nature of the work, its level of reach and organization, and its importance to the society in which it existed. Some have suggested that its overseeing merchants were practicing an industrial capitalism that presaged the far later Industrial Revolution by centralizing production, improving productivity, and introducing new spinning and weaving technologies. Others have focused their arguments on the exact time when these changes aided in the rise of the English cloth trade, placing it variously after the Black Death or well into the century after it. John S. Lee, in his eminently accessible work, The Medieval Clothier, tackles these and other issues by examining the processes of cloth production, the workers who produced and sold the cloth, and the greater relationship between the government, the people, and the “clothiers” in England between 1350 and 1550. Lee begins his examination by first explaining the variety of tasks like spinning, weaving, and dyeing necessary to the creation of cloth. Wool is his primary focus due to its position as the most prominent material produced in England, but other lesser materials like linen receive attention as well. The subject matter included in this opening section would be well known to any specialist readers of his work, but their inclusion performs the important function of making The Medieval Clothier a useful introductory text to any student of medieval material culture or other general reader. The same is true of the proceeding chapter on the marketing of finished materials. Yet, Lee goes further, illustrating how the local and pan-European importance of the cloth trade during the late fourteenth and early fifteenth centuries developed through both the extensive trade venues within England and the interest of members of different Hanseatic families and other Europeans throughout the period. Through this examination, Lee is next able to dive into the greater import of his [End Page 231] research: the why and when of this English rise to prominence. His next several chapters conclude that the rise was due in part to the post-bubonic plague accessibility of land and labor, the fourteenth-century downturn in Flemish cloth production, and the involvement of the government in subsidizing cloth production and regulating the industry. These causes, among others, saw cloth production spread outside its previously city-based bounds and into the country, where regulations were slower to take hold and fortunes were waiting to be made. This changed the social landscape of England, which now found successful clothiers all across the country. These men became benefactors to churches and members of the gentry as their largess and control over the multiple workers and processes of cloth production made them practicers of what Lee agrees was an early form of merchant capitalism. The volume is concluded with a chapter on four particular men whose success in the cloth industry, and subsequently the survival of their wills and other records, makes them excellent testimonies to the significance of the medieval English cloth industry. Miniature biographies of Thomas Paycocke of Coggeshall and three others form Lee’s evidence for the great scale of the cloth trade, which has previously been argued to have been more meager than Lee’s work suggests. In addition to this important conclusion, however, is the humanizing capacity of this final chapter, which takes the work out of the realm of generalized facts and figures and into the tangible reality of how individuals experienced the rise of cloth production. Lee’s research in The Medieval Clothier is clearly presented, well organized, and helpfully reinforced by the inclusion of maps of English centers of production, tables of cloth prices, taxes, and varieties, reproductions of medieval depictions of cloth making, and several appendices which include the full text of the wills of Thomas Paycocke and others. Further, in this treatise on “labor, capital, and markets,” (156) Lee draws skillfully on public pleas, ulnage (cloth subsidy) accounts, trade records, literary references to clothiers...
Read full abstract