Items Of Dress Research Articles

개인의 신체적 특성에 맞춘 의류 추천 방법

정보통신기술의 발달로 인터넷을 이용하는 패션/코디 쇼핑몰은 그 시장이 매년 큰 폭으로 증가하고 있다. 하지만, 자신의 신체나 패션스타일에 맞는 의류를 온라인 쇼핑몰에서 검색하는 것은 쉽지 않다. 본 논문은 여성 의류의 패션/코디 추천시스템에 대하여 특히, 개인의 신체적 특성에 가장 잘 맞추어진 의류 추천기능에 대하여 논한다. 또한, 계절별 유행에 대한 전문가의 추천도 고려할 수 있고, 자신의 좋아하는 의류스타일도 미리 등록해 둔 후에, 다양한 방법의 선택을 통하여 등록된 상품 중 자신이 원하는 최적의 상품을 추천받을 수 있도록 패션/코디 쇼핑몰에서의 추천방법을 제안하였다. With the development of information technology, online commercial transactions have been steadily increasing. However it is not easy to recommend the clothes in coordination with individual physical features. This paper presents a fashion coordination recommender system for women's clothes. The system includes the functionality of recommending clothes best-suited for customers in consideration of their individual physical features. It has also been designed to recommend clothes in vogue for those who are fashion-sensitive by considering the fashion trend of the times. Operated in an optional or coupling way, these functionalities of our system result in an intelligent fashion coordination system which recommends dress items to customers in various ways.

Selective List of Recent Dress Exhibitions

This list includes temporary exhibitions mounted in UK museums and galleries during 2010. Each display contained at least some items of dress or dress fabrics, fashion plates or fashion photography.

Party-Coloured Plaid? Portraits of Eighteenth-Century Scots in Tartan

This article offers a close reading of a series of portraits of eighteenth-century Scots in which the sitters — men of élite social status and, in some instances, elevated military rank — are shown dressed in different painterly representations of tartan. Focusing on portraits produced in Scotland, London and Europe by artists including Pompeo Batoni and Allan Ramsay, it seeks to offer an alternative account to the production and consumption of tartan as a tangible textile or a worn item of masculine dress, to give an art historical overview of its mutability as it is represented in eighteenth-century portraiture. Casting tartan as a potent agent in the pictorial representation of identity, the article argues that it literally enveloped its sitters in a textile that was variously political (as an idiom of rebellion and loyalty), cultural, social and economic. The portraits, both surviving and lost, are discussed in conjunction with contemporary travel literature of visits to Scotland and unpublished correspondence so as to represent the many discursive threads of tartan in the eighteenth century.

Use and Identification of Tikumu (Celmisia Species, Asteraceae) in Artifacts of New Zealand Origin

Uses of tikumu made from largeleaved Celmisia by Māori to construct items of dress are reviewed. leaf and wharawhara properties of large-leaved Celmisia species are described to aid employees in cultural institutions in identifying and better conserving tikumu in artifacts originating from new Zealand. four species (C. coriacea, C. holosericea, C. monroi, and C. semicordata) can be stripped to yield wharawhara. Unlike other vegetable fibers, wharawhara is identifiable to species using measurements of thickness, length, length-to-width ratio, and presence of an apparent midrib. the three subspecies within the widespread Celmisia semicordata produce large pieces of wharawhara with a distinctive v-shape. Material historically identified as C. coriacea is most likely from one of these three widespread subspecies of C. semicordata, which until 1980 were included within C. coriacea. a range of the larger-leaved species, several of which occur at lower altitudes, would have been suitable for other uses involving whole leaves, and in most cases can be identified to species based on leaf size, thickness and surface features.

Moremi Statue in Ile- Ife: A Symbol of Yoruba Aesthetics

Moremi was a Yoruba heroine whose statues are in Ile-Ife as a memorial of her votive sacrifice to save her people from annihilation. The paper focuses primarily on the importance of Moremi on Ife people, which led to her been immortalized. It is also an attempt to analyse the aesthetic qualities of Moremi statue in relation to Yoruba cosmology, which emphasizes and promotes the attributes of Yoruba philosophy of beauty which is more of an inward rather than an outward issue. The study makes use of two statues of Moremi in Ile-Ife. The symbolism of the dress items is discussed so as to drive home the inherent Yoruba aesthetic terms portrayed in the statues visa- vis its relevance in the society. The paper also compares the two statues so as to draw attention to the different aesthetic portrayals. The Moremi statue in the Ooni of Ife palace is actually the object of interest of this study; however the other statue at Moremi hall, Obafemi Awolowo University Ile-Ife is also studied for comparative analysis. The findings among others revealed that, though Moremi is still well revered in Ile-Ife, yet, the statues are not well maintained.

Divinity and Power in Minute Particulars

The intention here is to explore the “implicit spirituality” of socks as a component of the religious wardrobe in relation to the larger theological themes of panentheism, sacramentalism and related mystical orientations. The early nineteenthcentury case of the Marist socks is employed to demonstrate the fecundity and utility of “implicit religion” as a concept and category that helps “make sense” of the Marist Founder’s valorization of this otherwise relatively insignificant item of male dress. In the grander theological and sociological scheme of things, Marist socks assume religious significance as a salutary sartorial symbol. Drawing on the Marist archives, the sock history of the Little Brothers of Mary is uncovered to reveal how, in religion, even the most neglected and least important of things in the eyes of the world can assume extraordinary spiritual and political significance.

Materializing Resistant Identities Among the Medieval Peasantry

This article examines metal dress accessories from a range of late medieval English rural settlement sites. It is argued at the outset that medieval archaeology has been very slow to consider the concept of resistance when interrogating the material culture of the peasantry and that items of dress are particularly amenable to such consideration given the close relationship between personal appearance and social power in this period. The dress accessories from seven excavated sites are investigated and interpreted as revealing the use of `infra-political' power by members of the medieval peasantry as they deployed this aspect of their material lives in re-fashioning and resisting the identities imposed on them by the medieval elite.

조선시대 국상 시 오복제도에 관한 연구 (제1보) -여자 복식을 중심으로-

The purpose of this study is to find the reason why the National Mourning Dress System of the Joseon Dynasty had been established although the General Mourning Dress System had exist through research of three things; differences of each social class, changes of the National Mourning Dress System by the age and differences between the National one and the General one. The methodology which is adopted for this study is comparative analysis by social class, period and age from the Annals of the Joseon Dynasty and the Orye-e. And this study is focus on the women`s dress. The results of this study is as follows; Firstly, some mourning dress items had been different or not used by class. Secondly, although there had not been a great change, some dress items had been disappeared or used irregularly. And Naemyoungbu Naekwan`s mourning dress had been changed by the age. Thirdly, The National one was more extensive in wearing and applied differently by class compare to the General one. Also it had an additional rule according to the period, duty and place to Naemyoungbu-Naekwan and Naemyoungbu-Goongkwan. The National one had been established by ruling class of The Joseon Dynasty who had tried to keep the Confucian standard and perfect social status system. And it is supposed that the National Mourning Dress System had not been a great change because the ruling class` will had not been changed.

Competing Sartorial Assertions of Femininity and Muslim Identity in Mali

This article explores conflicting notions of morality, religion, virtue, and authenticity through an analysis of dress and identity politics in Mali. While many women in urban Mali claim that being a Muslim believer does not preclude one from cultivating a fashionable, modern look, they are challenged by other women who emphasize the representational function of dress. To the latter, the choice of a dress forms part of their public enactment of a pious disposition and their understanding of religious virtue that revolves around notions of female modesty, submissiveness, and patience. These divergent views of proper female dress are further complicated by many women's ambivalent positioning vis-à-vis the government's promotion of “traditional dress” as an emblem of an authentic African identity. By exposing how these different groups of women debate the significance of particular dress items, this article draws attention to the complex and paradoxical nature of the practices through which women interrogate, and redefine, conventional understandings of femininity, proper Muslim observance, and enlightened-yet-authentically “African” identity.

Outside In: Making Sense of the Deliberate Concealment of Garments within Buildings

The practice of deliberately concealing garments within the structure of buildings is described. These finds provide a means of exploring how space was conceived and experienced in the past, and how these deliberately hidden garments mediated, and continue to mediate, the relationship between people and the spaces they occupied, and may continue to occupy. The Deliberately Concealed Garments Project was set up in 1998 to locate, document and analyze garments found hidden within buildings. Concealments have preserved many textiles in the UK, mainland Europe, Australia and North America. The significance of these caches rests not only in the finds themselves, as rare items of dress, but also because of what they reveal about perceptions of built space. The concealments are believed to serve a protective function, not against the weather or immodesty, but against incoming malevolent forces. As apotropaic (evil-averting) agents they protect from within rather than as outer coverings or internal divisions. The paper discusses how garments concealed within buildings transform space through the work of metaphor.

Ready-Made Democracy: A History of Men's Dress in the American Republic, 1760-1860 (review)

Ready-Made Democracy: A History of Men's Dress in the American Republic, 1760-1860. By Michael Zakim. (Chicago, IL: The University of Chicago Press, 2003. Pp. x, 296. Illustrations. Cloth, $30.00.)The strength of this book lies in the author's bringing together of insights from economic, industrial, labor, cultural, and gender history to support a series of broad conclusions about democracy and capitalism in the antebellum era. It is also a pleasure for a historian of fashion and physical appearance like me to see dress taken seriously as a major force in individual lives and American culture.In this book, Michael Zakim provides the most detailed account yet assembled of the rise of the men's clothing industry in the United States and of its early rationalization and standardization under the capitalist system, which began to appear in New York City in the late eighteenth century and grew rapidly in the antebellum era. By 1850 the clothing store Brooks Brothers, for example, had a marble palace of 20,000 square feet and a sales force of 2,000 (99). Pants were neatly piled on tables in the middle of its salesroom, and coats were displayed on hooks on the walls. Four hundred workers in back rooms either cut out the parts of the clothes from patterns placed on cloth or sewed together the parts into the items for sale.Zakim tells us more about the nature of dress in the lives of the young, upwardly mobile men who flooded the cities in this era to become clerks in stores and businesses than previous studies of the subject, including my own American Beauty (1983) and Patricia Kline Cohen's Murder of Helen Jewett (1998). Zakim is sensitive to the importance of individual items of dress; thus, he notes that the invention of disposable white collars allowed clerks to adopt a defining style of the male elites without having to undergo the significant expense of keeping those collars clean.Zakim presents women who worked in the men's garment industry as calling into question any notion of a transcendent feminine passivity or even domesticity (157). Mercilessly exploited by capitalism's unrelenting drive for cheap labor, they responded to the conditions of their exploitation by forming labor unions and engaging in strikes. Ultimately, however, they would fall victim to the breadwinner ethic-the idea that men should support their families by their own work, no matter their income. Even workingmen espoused that ideology, which they used to demand higher wages for themselves and which created a divide between male and female workers.Unfortunately, however, Zakim's narrative wanders, and it is at times hard to follow. Moreover, his conclusions are not as new as he claims them to be. Trained by social historians at Columbia University, he does not seem aware of a large body of literature in the history of fashion that has been accumulating for some time. Historians of fashion realized years ago that uniform, well-tailored clothing in dark colors had become the mark of the modern man of business and that fashion had become a standardizing force masking the revolutionary nature of capitalism, which separated home from office, created gulfs between the classes, and turned commodities into fetishes. …

Hinterland Warriors and Military Dress: European Empires and Exotic Uniforms

Much of the exotic dress of the armies of Europe and elsewhere has its origins in the conditions of frontier wars fought by imperial armies. As states have expanded to control hinterlands occupied by culturally diverse peoples, the ensuing conflicts have had an impact on imperial armies and the way they have dressed. 'Hinterland warriors' have been employed by imperial governments for a multitude of reasons: they understand the tactics of enemies at the border and are skilled tacticians themselves; they possess local knowledge; they do not disrupt the labor supply; politicians do not have to answer for high casualty rates if these are suffered by hinterland rather than metropolitan troops; finally, they are often classed as 'martial races' and therefore do not require the training needed by fresh recruits. Throughout time, imperial officers and auxiliaries adopted the dress of these hinterland troops under their command, and even metropolitan units in the imperial armies appropriated items of local dress while engaged in wars on the borders of the empire. These innovations frequently became institutionalized, and in many cases were distorted and stylized, resulting in a caricature of the dress of the hinterland troops that originally provided the model. This engrossing book charts how the perceptions of these marginalized peoples influenced and ultimately transformed the history of military dress.

Dress and Ethnic Identity in Irian Jaya

While there has been a growing interest in studies of dress in Southeast Asia among academics in recent years, analysis of the relationship between dress and ethnic identity has been largely neglected. The present article examines this relationship in the Indonesian province of Irian Jaya. The article begins with a brief survey of writing on dress and ethnic identity in Southeast Asia, with a focus on Indonesia. This is followed by an overview of traditional Irianese societies and dress. The next section examines acculturative influences during the period of Dutch rule and under the early years of Indonesian rule. The final section looks at developments over the past few years in regard to acculturative pressures and the contemporary use of items of dress associated with Irianese identity. After decades of neglect, studies of dress have come back into vogue among academics in recent years. While past (largely pre- World War II) studies were largely concerned with technical aspects of textiles (sometimes in relation to evolutionary or diffusionist questions), current studies are more interested in the cultural context of dress, especially in relation to rapid change and the contemporary forces of globalization. Most of the recent literature on dress, however, has been decidedly inward-looking, relating dress to such things as hierarchy and gender within particular societies. To the extent that a broader context is addressed, this has tended to entail a look at perceived negative aspects

Athens and Persia in the fifth century BC: a study in cultural receptivity

Introduction Preface Maps Part I. Spheres of Contact: 1. Relations between Athenians and Persians to the late fifth century: an overview 2. Infusion and diffusion of alien goods: spoils of the Persian wars 3. Cultural exchange through trade 4. Zones of contact between Greeks and the Western Empire 5. Diplomatic exchange: visions of splendour Part II. Perserie: 6. Persian gold and Attic clay 7. Incorporation of foreign items of dress 8. Metamorphosis of a luxury culture 9. The Odeion of Perikles and imperial expression 10. Perserie: Athenian receptivity to Achaemenid culture Figures Glossary Bibliography List of figures Index.

PHYSICIANS' ATTIRE AS PERCEIVED BY YOUNG CHILDREN AND THEIR PARENTS - THE MYTH OF THE WHITE COAT SYNDROME. † 775

Over the years the white coat has become a symbol of the physician; however, many pediatricians have abandoned this dress in the belief that a white coat is threatening to young children, despite a lack of data to support this practice. The objective of this study was to determine if young children have a preference regarding whether physicians do or do not wear a white coat. Forty-one children aged 5.8±1.3 (mean ±SD) (range 4-8) years were recruited in a pediatric outpatient setting. Two pairs of photographs, the same male with and without a white coat and the same female with and without a white coat, were shown to the children and their parents (mothers in 87.8%, aged 34.0 ± 5.5 years) and both were asked which of each pair they would like to have as their or their child's doctor respectively. Parents filled out a questionnaire rating the appropriateness of various aspects of a physician's attire and appearance on a 5-point scale (1-strongly agree, 5-strongly disagree). Overall the children selected the person in the white coat 75.6% (62/82, p>0.05) of the time. The difference was greater for the female (34/41, 82.9%) than the male (28/41, 68.3%) photographs. Parents also selected the white coat more often (overall 56/82, 68.3%). On the questionnaire parents identified a name tag (score 1.4±0.7) as the most appropriate item of dress followed by a white coat. Shorts (4.1±0.8), open-toed sandals (4.1±0.9) and clogs (4.1±0.9) were rated negatively while parents were neutral with respect to such items as hospital greens, skirts, or a shirt and tie. Our data suggest that it is a misconception that young children dislike white coats. The importance of wearing a name tag is confirmed.

Race-Class-Gender Ideology in Guatemala: Modern and Anti-Modern Forms

More often than not, women bear the burden of displaying the identifying symbols of their ethnic identity to the outside world, whether these be items of dress, aspects of language, or distinctive behavior. Men of the same ethnic group, especially when filling lower-order positions in the local division of labor, usually appear indistinguishable from men of a different ethnicity but in similar class positions. Thus in Guatemala, for example, one readily identifies a Maya Indian woman by her distinctive and colorful dress, her tendency to speak only the local dialect of a Maya language, and her modest demeanor when in public settings, especially those involving non-Maya. Most Maya men, in contrast, are not so easily distinguished from non-Maya (that is, Ladino) men of equivalent class in Guatemala.

The guide to historic costume

This is essentially a guide to items of historical dress in British Museum collections. However since there is more surviving historical costume in this country than anywhere else in the world, it doubles as a dictionary of costume, providing information on where to find a specific garment. The book offers a discussion of the history and development of each garment; and lists and illustrates a range of examples housed in English, Scottish and Welsh museums or public collections. Arranged alphabetically, and with full cross-references, each entry is given a date, approximate measurements and the museum's acquisition number, where possible. A glossary of potentially difficult terms, and an annotated list of museums and their addresses are also included.

Silens, nymphs, and maenads

One of the most familiar traits of the part-horse, part-man creatures known as silens is their keen interest in women. In Athenian vase-painting, the female companions of the silens are characterized by a variety of attributes and items of dress, and exhibit mixed feelings toward the attentions of silens. The complexities of the imagery have resulted in disagreement in modern scholarship on several points, including the identity of these females, the significance of their attributes, and the explanation of a change in their receptivity to the advances of the silens. One of the reasons for the lack of consensus in the scholarship is the fact that the imagery raises not one question but many: questions concerning iconographical method, mythology, ritual, and poetry. In what follows I have attempted to separate some of these entangled issues. I hope to show that the companions of the silens are nymphs and not maenads, and that a major change in the iconography of silens and nymphs, occurring in late sixth-century red-figure Attic vase-painting, reflects in some way developments in the Athenian dramatic genre of satyr-play.

African American Women's Dress in Georgia, 1890-1914 A Photographic Examination

This study examines the types of clothing worn by African American women living in the state of Georgia between 1890 and 1914. The researchers used historical photographs as primary sources to document clothing. The photographs are located in three collections: Spelman College, Atlanta University, and the Georgia Department of Archives and History. The clothing in each photograph was recorded and compared to styles of clothing advertised in national magazines of the period corresponding to the date of the photograph. Analysis revealed that (a) African American women in Georgia in the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries wore clothing similar in style to fashions advertised and illustrated in magazines and newspapers of the period, and (b) some items of dress were distinctive, that is, not illustrated in national periodicals of the time.

Rejecting “femininity”: Some research notes on gender identity development in lesbians∗

Fifteen women who identify themselves as lesbians were interviewed about their own development of gender identity. All the women involved in the study indicated a rejection of the traditional feminine role. This was often manifested before they were even aware of same‐sex attractions. However, they saw the traditional role for women as representing heterosexuality. To gain access to women, many even saw a need to achieve masculinity. Due to few or no visible lesbian role models and the rejection of the traditional female role, many, as children, chose the male role. This was reflected in: 1) taking the male role in play or fantasy, 2) being a “tomboy”, and 3) rejecting items of dress and play associated with female children. While none, as adults, still wanted to portray a male role, each still rejected traditional femininity. Thus these lesbians had to come to their own conclusions about what it meant not only to be women, but lesbians as well.