Iris Van Research Articles

아이리스 반 헤르펜의 오뜨꾸뛰르에 표현된 표현 대상을 활용한 3D 네일디자인 개발

아이리스 반 헤르펜의 오뜨꾸뛰르에 표현된 표현 대상을 활용한 3D 네일디자인 개발

New materialism: A theoretical framework for fashion in the age of technological innovation

Abstract Working from the case study of Dutch designer Iris van Herpen, this article proposes a new-materialist framework for fashion studies. The ‘material turn’ has gained substantial recognition in social and cultural research in the past decade but has received less attention in fashion studies. At the same time, fashion hardly ever figures in scholarship on new materialism. This article connects the two fields, surveys the literature, foregrounds key concepts and points to possible directions for fashion studies. The interdisciplinary field of new materialism highlights the role of non-human factors in the field of fashion, ranging from raw materials (cotton) to smart materials (solar cells) and from the textility of the garment to the tactility of the human body. New materialists work from a dynamic notion of life in which human bodies, fibres, fabrics, garments and technologies are inextricably entangled. The context of new materialism is posthumanism, which entails both a decentring of the human subject and an understanding of things and nature as having agency. The key concept is thus material agency, involving a shift from human agency to the intelligent matter of the human body as well as the materiality of fabrics, clothes and technology. The insight of material agency is important for acknowledging the pivotal role of technology in fashion design today, allowing greater attention for the material aspects of high-performance fibres and smart fabrics. From a new-materialist perspective, Iris van Herpen’s designs can be understood as hybrid assemblages of fibres, materials, fabrics and skin that open up engaged and meaningful interconnections with the human body.

Balenciaga: Shaping Fashion

Balenciaga: Shaping Fashion

Balenciaga: Shaping Fashion

Balenciaga: Shaping Fashion

Interactions: Dialogues on Body, Protections and Derivatives

Could kinetic clothing be the next big thing? A collaboration between Dutch fashion designer Iris van Herpen and Italy‐based architect and educator Niccolò Casas has produced a series of dresses that blur the boundaries between the body and the space around it. Casas explains how they have fused handcraft with technology, using 3D printing, mass customisation techniques, and morpho‐dynamic simulations, among other means, to produce couture pieces that react to bodily movement in extraordinary new ways.

Reinventing Shoes: United Nude

Based in Amsterdam, United Nude is a world leader in the design of technically advanced architectural footwear. After working separately with fashion designer Iris van Herpen and architect Zaha Hadid, the practice went on to collaborate with a number of pioneering architects and product designers worldwide for an exhibition at the 2015 Salone del Mobile in Milan. As a cofounder of the firm, Rem D Koolhaas recounts the journey so far, revealing the questions it raises and the capacities and limitations of 3D printing in this field.

Post‐Digital Transdisciplinarity

Why are buildings generally credited to a single individual or firm, without acknowledging the numerous other participants in their creation? Marjan Colletti, founder and director of the REX|LAB robotic experimentation laboratory at the University of Innsbruck, reflects on the nature and implications of transdisciplinarity. With reference to REX|LAB's contribution to the highly collaborative 2015 show of Iris van Herpen's Quaquaversal ready‐to‐wear collection, he further considers the increasingly understated approach to technological presence in the post‐digital age.

Originary Synaesthesia

ABSTRACTThis paper reflects on Iris van der Tuin's reading of the connections between microagressions and contemporary feminist theory. In particular, I address van der Tuin's discussion of echolocation and mirror-touch synaesthesia as empirical instances of the material, ontological complexity of individuation. For van der Tuin, recent findings in the science of perception rework our understanding of microagressions beyond its routinely atomistic logic and the subject/object divide that underpins it. Importantly, echolocation's and mirror-touch synaesthesia's confounding of the interplay between biology and environment also offers interesting insights into the epistemological and methodological question of how to 'measure' or know an imperceptive sort of experience like microagressions.

‘Dangerously Small Things’: Response to Iris van der Tuin

ABSTRACTThis essay responds to Iris van der Tuin’s, ‘Microaggressions as New Political Material for Feminist Scholars and Activists: Perspectives from Continental Philosophy, the New Materialisms, and Popular Culture’, by situating her interrogation as a performative intervention on the psychologisation of microaggression research. Her intervention thus expands the potential for feminist critical practice, and opens up the discourse to emergent political materials. In this vein, I offer two additional, but ‘small’, materials. First, because language plays a role in the exclusionary cuts through which all entities emerge, I encourage material feminism not to abandon linguistic entities as political materials. Second, by interrupting the false choice between individual and collective political action, I suggest a re-scaling of feminist political action for our neoliberal times.

패션소재의 입체적 표현에 대한 3D Scanning 및 소재특성 분석 연구 -Iris van Herpen의 작품을 중심으로-

패션소재의 입체적 표현에 대한 3D Scanning 및 소재특성 분석 연구 -Iris van Herpen의 작품을 중심으로-

Beside ourselves: worlds beyond people

This review essay explores three books: Rosi Braidotti’s The Posthuman, and two edited works – Rick Dolphin and Iris van der Tuin’s New Materialism: Interviews and Cartographies and Inna Semetsky a...

Cultural Techniques and Logistical Media: Tuning German and Anglo-American Media Studies

Cultural Techniques and Logistical Media: Tuning German and Anglo-American Media Studies

Stained Black Mirror

This work examines the material entanglements of humans and touch screens. The starting points are Donna Haraway's 'Cyborg Manifesto', read now over twenty years after it was first published, and the figure of a black mirror. The black mirror does not pretend to reflect back only that to which it has been turned. It also shows itself. This exposition is a fragmented essay in which the NSA, gendered technologies, manufacturing plants, selfies, new gestures, poor digital images, and self-performing human bodies attach to and collide with one another. I refer to academic as well as popular sources, but I also use my personal experiences and everyday observations as a material. One trace of the entanglement of humans and devices is greasy fingerprints on touch screens, hence the name of the exposition. But the entanglements of course go far beyond this – for instance to the manufacture of the machine and 'responsibility to the entanglements of which we are part' (Karen Barad).[1] The exposition is a part of my artistic research on the interplay of human and non-human agencies and the frictions between them. I began my research by examining the intertwinement of clothes and the human body and later also considered other aspects of technology–human relations. I conduct my research mainly through writing. Writing is artistic research for me – in contrast to writing about artistic research, for instance. While more poetic or fragmented research writing is not without problems – it could be argued to be less falsifiable for instance – it carries the potential for more frictions within a text, or changing points of view, or different agential collaborations and enactments; all issues that may be in the core of research and that sometimes need to be brought forward in ways departing from more traditional styles of academic writing. 1. Rick Dolphijn and Iris van der Tuin, ‘Interview with Karen Barad’, in New Materialism: Interviews and Cartographies (Ann Arbor, MI: Open Humanities Press, 2012), pp. 48–70 (p.52).

Study on Modern and Innovative Haute Couture Designer Iris van Herpen

Background Iris van Herpen is a young haute couture designer who is globally famous for her experimental designs on the central stage of modern haute couture, which is gradually changing. This study aims to examine the features shown in van Herpen’s unique designs and works to investigate haute couture design, changes that occur in the field of fashion design, and the innovative trends that are differentiated from conventional and existing methods. Methods In this study, an analysis is conducted of all of van Herpen’s collections, which span from 2007 to 2013, built as a haute couture archive on van Herpen’s official website. Following an analysis of van Herpen’s works and related information, van Herpen’s activities as a haute couture designer over time are described. The objects used in her works and the features of their presentation as shown in her collections are analyzed, and her innovative tendency shown in her designs and processes is identified. Results The objects presented in Iris van Herpen’s haute couture collections are classified into three categories: human body and nature, senses and emotions, and culture and technology. Iris van Herpen uses organic shapes, repetition, gradual change, and continuation to emphasize particular shapes. She finds new unfamiliar materials, and discovers her own unique structures and shapes through the process of finding solutions for them. Iris van Herpen makes new attempts not shown in conventional haute couture collections; for example, in her use of 3D printing, she suggests new points for existing values and methods. Her innovative inclinations shown in her collections and techniques include the introduction of advanced technologies through collaboration, the combination of creative technology and materials, and the construction and realization of imagination based on technologies. Conclusion Iris van Herpen, who intends to suggest the future of fashion through haute couture, is forging a path no one has taken. She works on the basis of discernment to see into presented objects, challenges and experimental spirit for novelty, and borderless collaboration. It is certain that her efforts will contribute to the occurrence of dynamic changes across the fashion industry.

스타일 형성에 관한 연구 - Iris Van Herpen의 스타일을 중심으로 -

This study aims to identify the meaning and formation cause of a style, and the essential elements of style formation, through psychobiological research as well as an analysis of the designs of Iris Van Herpen, a fashion designer, who in just 6 years has developed into a world-renowned new designer. As a result, it has been found that the psychobiological causes to form a style stem from the action of 'long-term memory', which is consolidated by 'selective attention', 'perceptional subjectivity', the principle of the 'neuron's connection specificity and invariance', and the principle of a 'neuronal signal's unilateral flow'. With such action, Herpen could develop her own original composition techniques. The formative shapes created by such composition techniques are characterized by enumeration, superposition, and hanging. The study has also found that the essential elements for a designer to be able to form his/her own style include 'aesthetic originality' in which the designer views the property of a thing from his/her inherent perspective, and finds the uniqueness from the thing that only he/she can express, 'technical differences' that are creative and original, and 'formative specificity' that is summarized into one property through an impressive shape.

New Materialism as Media Theory: Medianatures and Dirty Matter

In the midst of theoretical debates and traditions concerning “materialism” (also new), “realism” (speculative) and “objects” (object-oriented philosophy), one of the most important things to reali...

GENERATIONAL DILEMMAS

Iris van der Tuin is surely right that feminist theorists need to challenge our linear generationalism, both in how we tell the story of the recent past and in how we occupy the present; a vibrant future for feminist epistemology depends on this.

Redefining risks after TIA and minor ischaemic stroke

In today's Lancet, Iris van Wijk and colleagues present new robust evidence from an almost ideal prognostic study about the chance of survival free of recurrent vascular events during the first 10 years after a transient ischaemic attack of the brain (TIA) or minor ischaemic stroke in a large population of patients. Furthermore, they report three prediction models (one based on history, a second on history and examination findings, and a third on clinical and laboratory tests) that will help clinicians estimate the prognosis of individual patients.

Education and National Personae in Portugal's Colonial and Postcolonial Transition

Previous articleNext article No AccessEducation and National Personae in Portugal's Colonial and Postcolonial TransitionAntoinette ErranteAntoinette Errante Search for more articles by this author PDFPDF PLUS Add to favoritesDownload CitationTrack CitationsPermissionsReprints Share onFacebookTwitterLinkedInRedditEmail SectionsMoreDetailsFiguresReferencesCited by Comparative Education Review Volume 42, Number 3Aug., 1998 Sponsored by the Comparative and International Education Society Article DOIhttps://doi.org/10.1086/447509 Views: 4Total views on this site Citations: 7Citations are reported from Crossref Copyright 1998 The Comparative and International Education SocietyPDF download Crossref reports the following articles citing this article:Iris van Huis Contesting Cultural Heritage: Decolonizing the Tropenmuseum as an Intervention in the Dutch/European Memory Complex, (Aug 2019): 215–248.https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-030-11464-0_8Alistair Ross, Ian Davies Europe and Global Citizenship, (Jan 2018): 21–36.https://doi.org/10.1057/978-1-137-59733-5_2Christoph Kohl Limitations and Ambiguities of Colonialism in Guinea-Bissau. Examining the Creole and “Civilized” Space in Colonial Society, History in Africa 43 (Dec 2015): 169–203.https://doi.org/10.1017/hia.2015.27Rolf Straubhaar The Multiple Influences on Nonformal Instructional Practices in Rural Mozambique: Exploring the Limits of World Culture Theory, Comparative Education Review 58, no.22 (Jul 2015): 215–240.https://doi.org/10.1086/674418Derek Pardue Cape Verdean Kriolu as an Epistemology of Contact, Cadernos de Estudos Africanos , no.2424 (Dec 2012): 73–94.https://doi.org/10.4000/cea.696Kamal Abouchedid, Ramzi Nasser ATTRIBUTIONS OF RESPONSIBILITY FOR POVERTY AMONG LEBANESE AND PORTUGUESE UNIVERSITY STUDENTS: A CROSS-CULTURAL COMPARISON, Social Behavior and Personality: an international journal 30, no.11 (Jan 2002): 25–36.https://doi.org/10.2224/sbp.2002.30.1.25K.C. Tse Society and citizenship education in transition: the case of Macau, International Journal of Educational Development 21, no.44 (Jul 2001): 305–314.https://doi.org/10.1016/S0738-0593(00)00004-3