INCI Research Articles

A Radish Root Ferment Filtrate for Cosmetic Preservation: A Study of Efficacy of Kopraphinol

Preserving cosmetic products from microbial contamination is crucial to ensuring their safety, efficacy, and shelf life. A number of synthetic antimicrobial preservatives are available, but, since the global market demand for natural ingredients is increasing, cosmetic manufacturers are considering replacing conventional preservatives with natural alternatives. In this context, the objective of this investigation was to characterize the antimicrobial activity of the natural preservative, intended for cosmetic purposes, Kopraphinol (INCI name: Lactobacillus/Radish Root Ferment Extract Filtrate). It was tested against a panel of selected bacteria and mycetes by using conventional microbiological techniques (determination of MIC, time killing assay), and a challenge test was used to verify its potential preservative in an O/W hydrophilic cream (Cetomacrogol cream base). Kopraphinol has shown an interesting antimicrobial effectiveness, with M.I.C.s ranging from 0.78% to 6.25% for bacteria and from 1.56% to 5% for mycetes. Moreover, it fulfilled challenge test criterion A and has proven effective against microbial contamination, leading to a 3 log reduction of inoculum after 7 days for bacteria and a 2 log reduction at 14 days for fungi. The results obtained show that Kopraphinol can be considered a promising and effective candidate for the antimicrobial preservation of cosmetics and could successfully complement or even replace conventional preservatives.

Microbiological quality and efficacy of preservatives in marigold-based skin care products

<p>The microbiological stability of cosmetic products is crucial, especially in products with high water content, such as creams. Therefore, preservatives are used in order to protect consumers from harmful pathogens that would otherwise invade the cosmetics. Despite their function, the addition of preservatives can be considered controversial in the cosmetics industry. Parabens are frequently used synthetic preservatives in various industries. According to regulatory directives concerning cosmetics (Cosmetic Directive by the European Commission) usage of some parabens (methylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben, and ethylparaben) is safe and permitted in allowed concentrations. On the other hand, the European Commission prohibited the use of isopropylparaben, isobutylparaben, phenylparaben, benzylparaben and pentylparaben. Therefore, a comprehensive stability study was conducted to evaluate the influence of paraben-based preservative (Gujsol-1<sup>®</sup>, INCI name: Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Ethylparaben, Propylparaben, Butylparaben) and potassium sorbate in order to preserve plant extracts-based skin-care products, Day and Night creams with marigold extract. Previously, mentioned skin-care products were preserved with the preservative Dekaben C<sup>®</sup>, which contained paraben mixture with banned isobutylparaben. All tested formulations showed favorable texture and sensory characteristics, desirable mild acidic pH values, satisfactory physical stability and appropriate microbiological quality at the initial point, as well as after storage at elevated temperature or at cyclic stress test conditions and at room temperature during two years. In addition, both preservatives significantly reduced the number of inoculated microorganisms during the challenge test. It can be concluded that potassium sorbate in plant-based creams could be an efficient alternative to paraben-based preservatives.</p>

Potential role of the cell-penetrating peptide-conjugated soluble N-ethylmaleimide-sensitive factor attachment protein receptor motif of vesicle-associated membrane protein 2-patterned peptide in novel cosmeceutical skin product development.

This study aimed to investigate and verify the effect of cell-penetrating peptide (CPP)-conjugated soluble N-ethylmaleimide-sensitive factor attachment protein receptor (SNARE) motif of vesicle-associated membrane protein 2 (VAMP2)-patterned peptide (INCI name: Acetyl sh-Oligopeptide-26 sh-Oligopeptide-27 SP, trade name: M.Biome-BT) on improving skin function in vitro. The cytotoxicity of CPP-conjugated SNARE motif of VAMP2-patterned peptide (CVP) was investigated using the 3-(4,5-dimethylthiazol-2yl)-2,5-diphenyl tetrazolium bromide (MTT) assay against B16-F10 cells and human dermal fibroblasts (HDFs) and a reconstructed skin irritation test. The anti-wrinkle activity of M.Biome-BT was determined by assessing the release of norepinephrine and dopamine in PC-12 cells via ELISA. The skin-whitening effects of CVP were assessed in B16-F10 cells by measuring the intra- and extracellular melanin contents and expression levels of melanin production-related genes, such as microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF), tyrosinase (TYR), tyrosinase-related protein-1 (TRP-1), and TRP-2. CVP is not cytotoxic to B16-F10 cells and HDFs, and no skin irritation was observed. CVP treatment considerably diminished K+ -induced norepinephrine and dopamine secretion compared with the non-treated control group (62% and 40%, respectively). Additionally, the inhibition ability of CVP on norepinephrine and dopamine release was comparable to that of botulinum neurotoxin type A (BoNT/A). CVP also increased intracellular melanin content in a dose-dependent manner, whereas extracellular melanin content decreased (76%-85%). However, CVP treatment did not affect the mRNA expression of MITF, TYR, TRP-1, and TRP-2. These results suggest that CVP does not inhibit melanin production; however, it may induce a whitening effect by inhibiting melanin transport. Taken together, our findings indicate that CVP could be used as an active and safe cosmeceutical ingredient for antiaging applications.

Efficient Development of Green Emulsifier/Emollient-Based Emulsion Vehicles: From RSM Optimal Experimental Design to Abridged In Vivo Assessment.

Since natural-origin, sustainable ingredients are preferred by modern consumers, novel emulsifiers and emollients keep entering the market. This study hypothesizes that a combination of in silico, instrumental tools and simplified sensory studies could be used to efficiently characterize emulsions in a shorter timeframe. A total of 22 rather simple o/w emulsions were prepared by a time/energy-saving emulsification process. A natural mixed emulsifier (Lauryl Glucoside/Myristyl Glucoside/Polyglyceryl-6 Laurate) and two emollients (both with INCI name C15-19 Alkane) were used. The performed D-optimal experimental design within the response surface method (RSM) significantly narrowed down the number of samples about to enter the stage of texture, friction and sensory studies to the samples comprising 30% of a respective Emogreen emollient and 2% or 3% of the emulsifier. The sample comprising 2% emulsifier/30% Emogreen® L15 showed significantly higher firmness (42.12 mN) when compared to the one with 2% emulsifier/30% Emogreen® L19 (33.62 mN), which was somewhat unexpected considering the emollients' inherent viscosity values (4.5 mPa·s for L15 and 9 mPa·s for L19). The sample with 2% emulsifier/30% Emogreen® L19 managed to maintain the lowest friction, while the one with 3% emulsifier/30% Emogreen® L19 released its full lubricating potential in the second part of the measurement (30-60 s). The obtained results revealed the strengths and weaknesses of each formulation, narrowing down their possible applications in the early development stage.

Investigations into the Usage of the Mineral Alginite Fermented with Lactobacillus Paracasei for Cosmetic Purposes

A remarkable interplay between the skin and the fermentation of lactic acid bacteria (LAB) occurs. The lactate and amino acids in the supernatant of this bacteria help to hydrate the skin. The fermentation broth of lactic acid bacteria, generally referred as "lactic acid bacteria ferment" according to International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients (INCI), has been used to make a variety of cosmetic components. The goal of this study was to evaluate new approaches to assess ferment filtrates (also known as cell-free fermentation broths) that could be used in cosmeceuticals. Despite years of research on the production of lactic acid, aesthetic evaluations have not yet been performed. First, the Lactobacillus paracasei strain NCAIM B.01525 was employed in our research. Furthermore, a fermentation broth was produced containing the Hungaricum mineral alginite and the impact of hydration on human skin tested. The influence of alginite on the fermentation of LAB was also examined. According to the results of the trials, although alginite might double and triple biomass and specific growth rates, respectively, it cannot facilitate hydration of the skin. These results might contribute to the development of more widely accessible, environmentally-friendly cosmetic components in the future.

Biocatalytic intensified process for the synthesis of neopentyl glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate

Emollient esters are widely used ingredients in the cosmetics industry. Their chemical synthesis requires the use of high temperatures and polluting acid catalysts, resulting in environmentally unfriendly processes.This paper describes, for the first time, the biocatalytic synthesis process of the cosmetic ingredient neopentyl glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate (INCI name), a mixture of branched diesters with excellent emollient properties. The co-esterification of the acids with the alcohol is carried out in a solvent-free system, using the biocatalyst Lipozyme®435, a commercial immobilized derivative of Candida antarctica lipase B marketed by Novozymes.Process intensification has been approached by acting on three different aspects. Firstly, the use of solvent-free systems provides higher yields by operating with smaller reactor volumes. Secondly, the inhibition of the enzymatic activity caused by caprylic and capric acids has determined the need to implement a new reaction strategy consisting in the use of a fed-batch reactor, in which the acid is added to the reactor using a peristaltic pump in order to maintain an optimal acid concentration that minimizes the inhibition effects. Finally, the reusability of the biocatalyst used has been verified, allowing it to be used in at least five consecutive reaction cycles without noticeable loss of activity.All this results in an efficient synthesis process with a process productivity of 0.15 kg product/L reactor·h and a biocatalyst productivity of 167.09 kg product/kg biocatalyst. Only 6 h are needed, operating in a fed-batch reactor at 80 °C, to obtain a product with 92.5% purity. In addition, the most commonly used sustainability indicators have been calculated, reflecting that the biocatalytic process developed for the synthesis of neopentyl glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate complies with many of the principles of "green chemistry" and is suitable for future implementation on an industrial scale.

Ultraviolet filter, fragrance and preservative allergens in New Zealand sunscreens.

Allergic contact dermatitis, photoallergic contact dermatitis and irritant reactions to sunscreens are common reasons for dermatology consultation. Patch testing for contact allergy relies on up-to-date knowledge of allergen exposures. The aim of this study was to investigate contact allergens and photoallergens in sunscreens commercially sold on the shelves of supermarkets and pharmacies in New Zealand. A comprehensive market data review of suppliers' websites was performed from March to August 2019 to obtain a list of the commonly sold sunscreens in our region. Ingredients were collated and analysed according to International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients (INCI) names. Ultraviolet (UV) filters, preservatives and fragrances were included for analysis. Place of sale and cost of sunscreens were also recorded. Ninety-five sunscreens were analysed: 36% sold in supermarkets, 43% in pharmacies and the remainder available in both. The most frequent UV filters were butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (contained in 70% of products) followed by octocrylene (63%) and homosalate (50%). The common photoallergen benzophenone 3 was found in 19% of products. Phenoxyethanol was the most common preservative (68%) followed by disodium EDTA (30%) and propylparaben (26%). Two sunscreens contained methylisothiazolinone. Sixty-one per cent contained at least one fragrance, the most frequent being limonene (17%) and linalool (13%). There was an average of 1.1 New Zealand baseline series allergens per product (range 0 to 6, standard deviation 1.27). Common allergens including those with high sensitising potential were frequently found in New Zealand sunscreen. Knowledge of ingredients used by manufacturers is useful in dermatological assessment of skin contact reactions.

113 Encapsulated Activated-Grape Seed Extract (ACTIVITIS™) inhibits demethylation of PP2A promoting anti-aging benefits and barrier repair for human skin

Cumulative oxidative stress and chronic inflammation are critical during skin aging. One pathway that regulates both processes involves Protein phosphatase 2A (PP2A), a serine/threonine phosphatase. Reversible methylation of the C-terminal leucine of the PP2A catalytic subunit (PP2Ac) plays a crucial role in regulating PP2A function. Oxidative stress has been previously shown to dramatically decrease methylation of the C-terminal leucine of the PP2A catalytic subunit (PP2Ac) in dermal fibroblasts. Previously, we developed a novel, proprietary grape seed extract called Activated-Grape Seed Extract, or ACTIVITIS™ (INCI name: anthocyanins and hydrolyzed proanthocyanidins) which is enriched for PP2A-activating flavonoids with increased potency in preventing PP2A demethylation when compared to commercial Grape Seed Extract. To enhance skin delivery and other potential benefits of ACTIVITIS™, we developed a chemical encapsulation formulation utilizing a liposome-based approach. Results demonstrate that this novel encapsulated form of ACTIVITIS™ retains PP2A demethylating activity with similar potency as the non-encapsulated form. To explore the potential benefits of encapsulated ACTIVITIS™, we performed in vitro assays utilizing 3D epidermal skin tissue models and UVB irradiation. We found encapsulated ACTIVITIS™ significantly increases both cell proliferation (Ki67) and skin barrier (Filaggrin) marker expression after UVB irradiation. Moreover, encapsulated ACTIVITIS™ formulation decreases DNA damage marker Cyclobutane pyrimidine dimers (CPD), thus enhancing epidermal integrity and barrier repair after UVB-induced effects. Lastly, clinical results in human subjects demonstrates that encapsulated ACTIVITIS™ is well tolerated and provides anti-aging benefits such as improving fine lines and wrinkles when applied topically.

Repurposing INCI-registered compounds as skin prebiotics for probiotic Staphylococcus epidermidis against UV-B

Repurposing existing compounds for new indications may facilitate the discovery of skin prebiotics which have not been well defined. Four compounds that have been registered by the International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients (INCI) were included to study their abilities to induce the fermentation of Staphylococcusepidermidis (S. epidermidis), a bacterial species abundant in the human skin. Liquid coco-caprylate/caprate (LCC), originally used as an emollient, effectively initiated the fermentation of S. epidermidis ATCC 12228, produced short-chain fatty acids (SCFAs), and provoked robust electricity. Application of LCC plus electrogenic S. epidermidis ATCC 12228 on mouse skin significantly reduced ultraviolet B (UV-B)-induced injuries which were evaluated by the formation of 4-hydroxynonenal (4-HNE), cyclobutane pyrimidine dimers (CPD), and skin lesions. A S. epidermidis S2 isolate with low expressions of genes encoding pyruvate dehydrogenase (pdh), and phosphate acetyltransferase (pta) was found to be poorly electrogenic. The protective action of electrogenic S. epidermidis against UV-B-induced skin injuries was considerably suppressed when mouse skin was applied with LCC in combination with a poorly electrogenic S. epidermidis S2 isolate. Exploring new indication of LCC for promoting S. epidermidis against UV-B provided an example of repurposing INCI-registered compounds as skin prebiotics.

Contact allergy to polyhexamethylene biguanide (polyaminopropyl biguanide).

BackgroundPolyaminopropyl biguanide (INCI name) and polyhexamethylene biguanide (PHMB) are polymeric biguanides. PHMB is a broad‐spectrum antimicrobial substance used as a preservative in many products. Due to our limited knowledge on PHMB contact allergy frequency and the fact that cases of allergic contact dermatitis to PHMB might be missed, we have included PHMB as a screening allergen since 2016.ObjectiveTo report the prevalence of positive patch test reactions to PHMB as a screening allergen in patients with suspected allergic contact dermatitis.MethodsA retrospective analysis of 1760 patch tested patients from July 2016 to December 2018 was performed. Polyaminopropyl biguanide 2.0% aqua was included in the extended Malmö baseline series during the study period.ResultsOf all patients, 1204 (68.4%) were female. Positive patch test reactions were reported in 19 patients (1.1%). The most common sites of lesions were face, head, and neck (52.6%). There was a significant correlation between concomitant reactions to PHMB and other cosmetic‐related allergens.ConclusionThe prevalence of positive reactions to PHMB was higher than that previously reported. Patch testing with PHMB should be performed in patients with dermatitis who have lesions on the face, head, and neck.

NOMBRAR LOS COSMÉTICOS: LOS ORÍGENES Y CONSOLIDACIÓN DE LA NOMENCLATURA COSMÉTICA INTERNACIONAL

This work studies the development and consolidation of an international terminology of cosmetics in both the United States and Europe, considering, mainly, the period between 1938 and 1996. The powerful cosmetic sector of the US made several efforts to standardize its products resulting in the publication of the Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary in 1973, with a specific nomenclature initially called CTFA Adopted Names, and, since 1993, International Nomenclature of Cosmetic ingredients (INCI). In Europe, the terminology standardization process took longer, involving the coexistence of different standards, as well as the final adoption of INCI terminology for consumers, which consolidated an international cosmetic market.

Análise dos parâmetros físico – químicos e organolépticos de sabonetes líquidos íntimos

RESUMO: A genitália feminina possui inúmeras características entre elas é ter o pH ácido e ser constituída por microrganismos que são responsáveis por manter essa região saudável e livre de odores. Contudo, a devida higienização dessa região é importante e deve ser feita com produtos adequados entre eles estão os sabonetes líquidos íntimos. Formulações essas bem preparadas, estáveis, aprovadas e classificadas como cosméticos de grau 2 pela ANVISA. Porém, muitos erros ainda são encontrados nos produtos cosméticos, no desvio de qualidade, aspecto, estabilidade e na rotulagem com a falta ou excesso de informações. Diante disso, o objetivo do estudo foi analisar os parâmetros físico-químicos e organolépticos de sabonetes líquidos íntimos comercializados em drogarias, perante as normas da ANVISA e as especificações descritas em sua rotulagem e para isso foram realizados durante 3 meses, nos intervalos de 15 em 15 dias testes de estabilidade. pH, viscosidade, densidade e as características organolépticas, afim de verificar se haveriam mudanças. Ao fim dos 90 dias observou-se que os 10 sabonetes líquidos íntimos mostraram-se sem alterações relevantes tanto nas características físico-químicas quanto nas organolépticas. Com relação a avaliação dos rótulos, ou seja, na embalagem primária, todos continham as informações obrigatórias entre elas todos os ingredientes que estão na relação nomenclatura internacional de ingredientes cosméticos (INCI), possuindo número de registro, data de validade, valor de pH entre outros. Ao fim do estudo foi possível verificar que não houve nenhuma alteração na formulação e nenhuma irregularidade nos rótulos, apresentando um resultado aceitável e dentro das especificações da ANVISA.
 PALAVRAS-CHAVE: Estabilidade de Cosméticos; Genitália feminina; Rotulagem de Cosméticos.

Tamanu oil and skin active properties: from traditional to modern cosmetic uses

Calophyllum inophyllum L. (Calophyllaceae), locally called “tamanu” in French Polynesia, is an evergreen pantropical tree growing mostly along the seashores. Its barks, leaves, and fruits are still used in traditional medicine. The oil expressed from the nuts has been also traditionally used. Tamanu oil is topically applied on skins as well as mucous membrane lesions. This oil is especially recommended to heal all kinds of skin ailments. Bioassays and different assessments of Tamanu oil revealed numerous biological activities (antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, wound healing…), so bringing scientific evidence of beneficial effects of this oil on human skin healing. Such biological properties may explain the use of tamanu oil as an active cosmetic ingredient recorded as “Calophyllum inophyllum seed oil” by the INCI (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients). Most of the bioactive properties of tamanu oil are attributed to oil composition including the presence of resinous compounds in tamanu oil beside common fatty acids, which constitutes a unique characteristic of this healing oil. Actually, resinous part of tamanu oil is known to contain bioactive secondary metabolites mostly constituted by neoflavonoids including pyranocoumarin derivatives. Herein, chemical constituents and biological properties of tamanu oil are presented with a focus of its traditional use inspiring modern valuations related to cosmetic field.

Dual functional bioactive-peptide, AIMP1-derived peptide (AdP), for anti-aging.

Human skin aging is caused by several factors, such as UV irradiation, stress, hormone, and pollution. Wrinkle formation and skin pigmentation are representative features of skin aging. Although EGF and arbutin are used as anti-wrinkle and skin whitening agents, respectively, they have adverse effects on skin. When more cosmeceutical ingredients are added to cosmetic product, adverse effects are also accumulated. For these reasons, multifunctional and safe cosmetic ingredients are in demand. The aim of the present study is to investigate the novel anti-aging agents, AIMP1-derived peptide (AdP, INCI name: sh-oligopeptide-5/sh-oligopeptide SP) for cosmetic products. To assess the anti-wrinkle effect of AdP, collagen type I synthesis and fibroblast proliferation were determined on human fibroblasts. The anti-wrinkle effect of AdP was examined by ELISA and cell titer glo assay. To assess the whitening, melanin content and tyrosinase activity were determined on melanocytes. The whitening effect of AdP was examined by melanin measurement and enzyme activity assay. The safety of AdP was determined by cytotoxicity and immunogenicity, CCK-8 and TNF-α ELISA assay, respectively. AdP treatment induced the collagen type I synthesis and fibroblast proliferation. Also, AdP treatment inhibited melanin synthesis by regulating tyrosinase activity. The anti-aging effect of AdP is more potent than EGF and albutin. AdP did not show adverse effects. These results show that AdP can be dual functional and safe cosmeceutical agent to prevent skin aging.

Assessment of chemical elements in cosmetics' eyeshadows by X‐ray fluorescence and International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients characterization

Energy dispersive X‐ray fluorescence (EDXRF) technique, as a qualitative and quantitative analysis, was used for inorganic chemical elements determination (K, S, Cl, Al, Si, Ca, Ti, Mn, Fe, Pb, Zn, Rb, and Bi) in eyeshadows for safe human use. International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients standardized nomenclature was used for labels investigation to obtain data on legal regularity. Data of 23 samples were clustered by similarity, measuring relative concentrations of detected chemical elements. Calculating the correlation among such values, a similarity matrix was used to generate a dendrogram. Pb was found in samples silver color S12E and copper color S22I above permissible limits (20 μg/g). Same composition was reported for the pink (S01A), black (S02A), and brown (S03A) samples, but the same chemical elements were not detected by EDXRF in them. The best correlation was found between samples S08D and S23 J (0.961). The least correlation was 0.0012 between S01A and S12E. The clustering analysis showed 7 groups of similar samples according to EDXRF data. Relations among 6 eyeshadows' colors and chemical compositions were discovered by using decision trees, where the most determinant elements were Mn, S, Cl, Ca, and Fe, in this order. Commercial regularization and International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients standardization of eyeshadows in Brazil are not fully complied by the manufacturers of the investigated brands.

Fragrance contact allergens in 5588 cosmetic products identified through a novel smartphone application.

More than 25% of the adult European population suffers from contact allergy, with fragrance substances recognized as one of the main causes. Since 2005, 26 fragrance contact allergens have been mandatory to label in cosmetic products within the EU if present at 10ppm or above in leave-on and 100ppm or above in wash-off cosmetics. To examine exposure, based on ingredient labelling, to the 26 fragrances in a sample of 5588 fragranced cosmetic products. The investigated products were identified through a novel, non-profit smartphone application (app), designed to provide information to consumers about chemical substances in cosmetic products. Products registered through the app between December 2015 and October 2016 were label checked according to International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients (INCI) for the presence of the 26 fragrance substances or the wording 'fragrance/parfum/aroma'. The largest product categories investigated were 'cream, lotion and oil' (n=1192), 'shampoo and conditioner' (n=968) and 'deodorants' (n=632). Among cosmetic products labelled to contain at least one of the 26 fragrances, 85.5% and 73.9% contained at least two and at least three of the 26 fragrances, respectively. Linalool (49.5%) and limonene (48.5%) were labelled most often among all investigated products. Hydroxyisohexyl 3-cyclohexene carboxaldehyde (HICC/Lyral® ) was found in 13.5% of deodorants. Six of the 26 fragrance substances were labelled on less than one per cent of all products, including the natural extracts Evernia furfuracea (tree moss) and Evernia prunastri (oak moss). A total of 329 (5.9%) products had one or more of the 26 fragrance substances labelled but did not have 'parfum/fragrance/aroma' listed on the label. Consumers are widely exposed to, often multiple, well-established fragrance contact allergens through various cosmetic products intended for daily use. Several fragrance substances that are common causes of contact allergy were rarely labelled in this large sample of cosmetic products.

3-(3,4,5-Trimethoxybenzylidene)-2,4-pentanedione: Design of a novel photostabilizer with in vivo SPF boosting properties and its use in developing broad-spectrum sunscreen formulations.

The study concerned the synthesis of a novel photostabilizer based on benzylidenepentanedione chemistry and the evaluation of its potential in developing a broad-spectrum sunscreen formulation containing avobenzone. 3-(3,4,5-Trimethoxybenzylidene)-2-4-pentanedione (TMBP) was synthesized through a condensation reaction and incorporated into a sunscreen formulation containing, inter alia, avobenzone. The SPF, critical wavelength and in vitro photostability of the product were measured. The photostability was compared with that afforded by current avobenzone photostabilizers, namely octocrylene, ethylhexylmethoxycrylene and diethylhexylsyringylidenemalonate. The photostability of TMBP either alone or in the presence of avobenzone in a methanolic solution was also evaluated by UV spectrophotometric and HPLC analyses. The optical properties of TMBP were estimated experimentally and supported by time-dependent density functional theory (TD-DFT) calculations. The ability of TMBP to stabilize avobenzone under ultraviolet (UV) light exposure was shown both in formulated products and in solution. A comparative stability study incorporating various combinations of avobenzone, TMBP (vs. three commercial photostabilizers) and UVB sunscreens clearly showed TMBP to be a very effective stabilizer. The photostabilizing effect of TMBP arises from triplet-state energy transfer from avobenzone to TMBP and through light-induced reactions that preserve the main chromophores. Interestingly, a 50% in vivo SPF boosting was observed when TMBP was used with organic and inorganic sunscreens when alone it has no contribution to SPF. TMBP-containing sunscreen formulations clearly showed a critical wavelength of well over 370 nm and can thus be categorized as broad-spectrum sunscreens. We were able to design a very effective photostabilizer, trimethoxybenzylidene pentanedione (INCI name), based on benzylidenepentanedione chemistry. TMBP is very efficient in stabilizing avobenzone in formulated products and boosts in vivo SPF by >50% for organic and inorganic sunscreens, and the formulations have critical wavelengths of >370 nm. These efficacious properties make it a promising additive for inclusion in broad-spectrum photoprotective products.

Assessing eco-innovations in green chemistry: Life Cycle Assessment (LCA) of a cosmetic product with a bio-based ingredient

Enhancing and promoting eco-innovation solutions in cosmetic industry requires robust methods for assessing the environmental impacts and reducing burden shifting amongst life cycle stages and typology of impacts. This study aims at comparing the environmental profile of eco-innovation options for a cosmetic product by means of Life Cycle Assessment (LCA) methodology. We present a case study in which synthetic ingredients are replaced by others derived from natural compounds, following green chemistry principles. A C16–18 triglycerides mixture (INCI name “palmitic/stearic triglycerides”) derived from olive oil industry by-products is used both as single ingredient (Innovation I) and as part of a preformulated one (Innovation II), replacing the starting formulation (Benchmark) caprylic/capric triglyceride. Options are compared through LCA applying International Life Cycle Data impact assessment focusing the analysis to water and energy consumption, sources of raw materials and previous manufacturing stages thereof. In order to test the robustness of the results, we performed a set of sensitivity analyses: i) changing assumptions about transports and irrigation of olive trees; ii) comparing results of the application of two life cycle impact assessment methods (CML and IMPACT 2002). The results show that the impacts derived from the selection of ingredients are more significant than those due to water and energy consumption. Applying different methods, results show significant differences, especially in toxicity-related impact categories. Overall, an alleged “eco-friendly” ingredient (such as a natural by-product derived one) could result in a less preferable environmental profile if assessed in a life cycle perspective. This supports the need of adopting life cycle based methods to ensure that green chemistry options respond to the need of reducing environmental in all life cycle stages.

Using INCI for cosmetic back-label assignment

Using INCI for cosmetic back-label assignment

Effect of sample Concentration on the Characterization of Liposomes using Dynamic light Scattering Technique

Objective: The objective of the study was to assess the effect of liposomal concentration on the characterization of liposome using dynamic light scattering technique. Method: Liposome of a water soluble active, Niacinamide, was taken for the study. Phospholipid combination (INCI name lecithin and Propane diol) was used to form liposomes of Niacinamide. Concentrated liposomal suspension was prepared using various ratios of phospholipid. The concentrated liposomal suspension was diluted five times using distilled water. Concentrated liposomal suspension and diluted suspension were characterized for particle size, PDI, conductivity and Zeta potential. Their surface morphology was studied with SEM images. Results: The data on conductivity, PDI, zeta potential and particle size were significantly different between concentrated and diluted liposomal samples. The use of various phospholipid ratios appears to significantly affect PDI, zeta potential and particle size in concentrated sample. The data on diluted samples indicated that the phosholipid level has no significant effect on these parameters. Conclusion: In conclusion, characterizing liposomes using techniques which involves dynamic light scattering, that is widely used, liposome concentration during measurement is important to get reliable results. Key words: Liposomal dilution, Niacinamide, Polydispersity index, Particle size.