Ingredient In Cosmetic Products Research Articles

Solid Lipid Nanoparticles Incorporated with Retinol and Pentapeptide-18-Optimization, Characterization, and Cosmetic Application.

Solid lipid nanoparticles (SLNs) incorporated with retinol and oligopeptide can have a full spectrum of effects on the skin as a compatible combination of ingredients with broad anti-aging properties. The research's main objective was to ensure the stability of lipid nanocarriers containing retinol and peptide due to the planned use of this dispersion as a cosmetic raw material. To confirm the effectiveness of method optimization (high shear homogenization, HSH) and proper selection of substrates, SLN dispersions were obtained in three combinations: 1-non-incorporated SLNs; 2-SLNs containing only retinol; 3-SLNs containing retinol and pentapeptide-18; these were then stored at different temperatures (4, 25, 45 °C) for 4 weeks. The desired values of the physicochemical parameters of the optimized dispersion of lipid nanoparticles incorporated with retinol and oligopeptide over the required storage period were confirmed: mean particle size (Z-Ave) = 134.7 ± 0.3 nm; polydispersity index (PDI) = 0.269 ± 0.017 [-]; zeta potential (ZP) = 42.7 ± 1.2 mV (after 4 weeks at 25 °C). The results confirmed the proper selection of the SLN production method and the effectiveness of the optimization performed. The possibility of using the obtained raw material as an ingredient in cosmetic products with anti-aging properties was indicated.

Roles of Polymer Concentration and Ionic Strength in the Deposition of Chitosan of Fungal Origin onto Negatively Charged Surfaces.

This study examines the potential of fungal chitosan derived from Aspergillus niger as a sustainable alternative to traditional petrochemical-based ingredients in cosmetic products. Specifically, the research examines the solubility of fungal chitosan in aqueous solutions of varying ionic strength and its adsorption onto negatively charged surfaces that mimic human hair keratin. The adsorption behavior, water content, and frictional properties of chitosan films were evaluated using a quartz crystal microbalance with dissipation monitoring and a surface force apparatus (SFA). The findings indicated that fungal chitosan exhibits good solubility at a pH of 4.5. Conversely, the adsorption of chitosan is subject to the influence of both polymer concentration and ionic strength. At the lowest ionic strengths, a screening-enhanced adsorption process occurs as a consequence of the reduction in chitosan solubility in the presence of salt. This results in the depletion of polymer chains from the solution and their subsequent deposition. An increase in ionic strength above 15-20 mM results in a worsening of the chitosan-surface interaction, due to the simultaneous screening of both the chitosan and the surface charges. This results in a hindrance to the adsorption process. The deposited films are highly hydrated, and this hydration increases with both polymer concentration and ionic strength. Furthermore, the films exhibit a predominantly elastic behavior, and the response of the films under shear deformations shows a strong dependence on the polymer concentration. These findings contribute to the development of environmentally friendly cosmetic formulations that meet consumer demands for sustainability.

The Antioxidant and Whitening Effect of Miracle Fruit (Synsepalum dulcificum) Seed and Leaf Methanol Extracts

The seed and leaf 70% methanol extracts of miracle fruit (Synsepalum dulcificum) were investigated for its whitening activity for application as a functional ingredient in cosmetic products. At the leaf extract concentration of 100 mg/ml, the DPPH radical scavenging activity was found to be 94.58%, the ABTS+ radical scavenging activity was 36.62%. The total polyphenolic content of seed and leaf extract was 18.76 mgGAE/g, 71.42 mgGAE/g, respectively. The seed and leaf extracts reduced both tyrosinase activity and L-DOPA oxidation in a concentration-dependent manner. In B16F10 mouse melanoma cells, leaf extract inhibited 30% of melanin synthesis at 100 mg/ml. Miracle fruit seed and leaf extracts also inhibited the expression of melanogenesis genes such as microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF), tyrosinase, tyrosinase-related protein (TRP)-1. Moreover, reverse transcription-polymerase chain reaction of the extract showed that the mRNA expression of MITF, tyrosinase, and TRP-1 was decreased. The data suggested a protective role for the Synsepalum dulcificum seed and leaf extracts against melanogenesis.

Atlas pistachio (Pistacia atlantica) unripe fruit extract as a source of phytochemicals with anti-tyrosinase, antioxidant, and antibacterial properties

The current need for biologically active substances that are sustainable, allegedly beneficial to health, and may be employed as ingredients in cosmetic products has encouraged numerous researchers. Pistacia atlantica is known to contain compounds that possess strong biological effects beneficial to health. The objective of this study was the quantification of the polyphenols in unripe Atlas pistachio (AP) fruit extract and the evaluation of hydro-methanolic extract and anthocyanins for their antioxidant, anti-tyrosinase, and antimicrobial effects. The results revealed that the yield of the hydro-methanolic extract was 22.15%, characterized by 75.12 mg GAE/g DM for total phenolics and strong content of hydrolysable tannins (400.16 mg GAE/g DM). 1,1-dimethyl-allyl caffeate, hydroxytyrosol, ellagic acid, rutin, and kaempferol-3-O-glucoside were the most abundant components quantified by HPLC-DAD. The tyrosinase enzyme was significantly inhibited by AP extract (EC50 = 0.70 mg/mL). For the antioxidant properties, the hydrolyzed anthocyanin extract exhibited the best action against reducing power and β-carotene, compared to anthocyanins crude extract and fruits. This extract showed its stronger antibacterial activity. In conclusion, unripe AP fruit is a promising source of diverse phytochemicals that can be applied in medicinal, nutraceutical, and cosmetic applications as antioxidants and antimicrobials.

Promoting the Diffusion of Sustainable Innovations through Customer Education—A Case of the Cosmetic Industry

This article investigates whether customer education about the sustainability advantage of a sustainable innovation helps promote the diffusion of such innovation using a survey and an experimental study in the cosmetic industry. Educating customers to equip them with awareness, know-how, and principal knowledge about sustainability promotes their motivation toward adoption and thus facilitates the diffusion of sustainable innovation. Specifically, results show that educating customers about cosmetic product ingredients, sustainability definition, and green certification increases the customers’ intention towards checking cosmetic products for ingredients, avoiding products that contain harmful ingredients, and purchasing a sustainable product in the next two years. Customers will also have more trust and intention to adopt certified sustainable products, and they will regard whether a product is truly sustainable as a factor more important than its price in their purchase decisions. Finally, a comprehensive list of factors that contribute to a customer’s perception and adoption of a sustainable product, as well as the ranking given by the study participants, are discussed.

Olive Leaves and Citrus Peels: From Waste to Potential Resource for Cosmetic Products

Resource depletion and food waste accumulation represent a tremendous socio-economic and environmental problem. One promising strategy involves the use of byproducts derived from food waste as ingredients for cosmetic products. The aim of this work is to propose clementine peels and olive leaf extracts as value-added bioproducts for a cosmetic cream. Extracts were obtained by super critical extraction showing an antioxidant activity of ca. 25%. No cytotoxic effects of the extracts were recorded on keratinocyte cells up to a concentration of 4% v/v ratio within 24 h. The incorporation of clementine peels and olive leaf extracts into creams did not compromise their stability, as demonstrated by Turbiscan analyses at room and extreme (40 °C) storage conditions. The safety profiles of the final cosmetic formulations were further in vivo demonstrated on human volunteers. We analyzed the trans-epidermal water loss and variation of the skin’s erythematous index, which showed profiles that almost overlapped with the negative control. Moreover, rheological analysis of the resulting creams evidences their suitable spreadability with similar pseudoplastic profiles, although a slight reduction of viscosity was recorded by improving the extracts’ concentrations. The proposed approach highlights the advantage of combining byproduct resources and supercritical fluid extraction to obtain a safe and eco-friendly face cream.

Khuzāma (Lavandula angustifolia Mill.): Pharmacological Action and Therapeutic Uses in Perspective of Unani Medicine: A Review

Lavandula angustifolia Mill., commonly known as lavender, is a highly regarded medicinal herb in Unani Medicine. Its aerial parts, including leaves and flowers, are utilized for their therapeutic properties, and the plant is a common ingredient in cosmetic products. The essential oil derived from lavender is known for its sedative, carminative, anti-depressive, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial properties. These pharmacological effects are attributed to various bioactive compounds like betulin, betulinic acid, lactone, 3 beta-formyl ursolic acid, essential oil, glycolic acid, valeric acid, and linalyl acetate. This review aims to comprehensively explore Lavandula angustifolia Mill., covering identification, pharmacological actions, traditional uses, and recent scientific investigations. Utilizing a diverse range of sources, including scientific literature and research studies, the review adopts a comprehensive approach to compile information. The diverse array of bioactive constituents in lavender contributes to its medicinal profile, making it a versatile herbal remedy. Emphasis is placed on documenting and highlighting various pharmacological activities, reinforcing lavender's status as a potent therapeutic agent. Beyond its medicinal applications, the review delves into lavender's historical uses in Unani Medicine and its contemporary role in cosmetic formulations. Lavandula angustifolia Mill. emerges as a herbal powerhouse, offering a holistic approach to health and well-being. This review serves as a valuable resource for practitioners of traditional medicine and modern science alike, bridging the gap between historical wisdom and contemporary research in the realm of herbal medicine.

Characterization and dermal bioaccessibility of residual- and listed PFAS ingredients in cosmetic products.

As a large group of chemicals with diverse properties, per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances (PFAS) have found extensive application throughout consumer products, including cosmetics. Little is known about the importance of dermal uptake as a human exposure pathway for PFAS. Here we investigate a suite of listed-ingredient and residual PFAS in cosmetic products, along with their dermal bioaccessibility using in vitro incubations with artificial sweat. Concentrations of volatile listed ingredients (including cyclic perfluorinated alkanes, perfluorinated ethers, and polyfluorinated silanes) in three products ranged from 876-1323 μg g-1, while polar listed ingredients (i.e., polyfluoroalkyl phosphate esters [PAPs]) in a single product occurred at up to 2427 μg g-1 (6 : 2/6 : 2 diPAP)). Residual perfluoroalkyl carboxylic acids (PFCAs) were also measured at concentrations ranging from 0.02-29 μg g-1. When listed ingredients were included, our targeted analysis accounted for up to 103% of the total fluorine, while highlighting ambiguous and/or incorrect International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredient (INCI) names used in several products. Bioaccessibility experiments revealed that residual PFCAs readily partitioned to artificial sweat (bioaccessible fractions ranging from 43-76% for detectable substances) while listed ingredients (i.e., PAPs and neutral/volatile PFAS) displayed negligible partitioning. This work provides new insight into the occurrence of PFAS in cosmetic products, while furthering our understanding on their mechanisms of dermal uptake.

Evaluation of Cosmetic Ingredients Impacting Human Health

Human skin is a serious problem universally, by and large in both developing as well as underdeveloped nations. Conversely, synthetic skin care or cosmetic products, fragrances and preservatives create an unexpected adverse effect towards human skins and it’s not safeguarding too. This article reviews the current available scientific literature regarding the effect of human skins by using various ingredients to make the cosmetic and fragrances product. The present paper is an attempt to provide a detailed cosmetic product ingredients description, classification, synthetic study etc.

The in vitro effects of black soldier fly larvae (Hermitia illucens) oil as a high-functional active ingredient for inhibiting hyaluronidase, anti-oxidation benefits, whitening, and UVB protection.

Objective: Larvae of Hermitia illucens, or black soldier fly larvae (BSFL), have been recognized for their high lipid yield with a remarkable fatty acid profile. BSFL oil (SFO) offers the added value of a low environmental footprint and a sustainable product. In this study, the characteristics and cosmetic-related activities of SFO were investigated and compared with rice bran oil, olive oil and krill oil which are commonly used in cosmetics and supplements. Methods: The physicochemical characteristics were determined including acid value, saponification value, unsaponifiable matter and water content of SFO. The fatty acid composition was determined using GC-MS equipped with TR-FAME. The in vitro antioxidant properties were determined using DPPH, FRAP and lipid peroxidation inhibition assays. Antihyaluronidase (anti-HAase) activity was measured by detecting enzyme activity and molecular docking of candidate compounds toward the HAase enzyme. The safety assessment towards normal human cells was determined using the MTT assay and the UVB protection upon UVB-irradiated fibroblasts was determined using the DCF-DA assay. The whitening effect of SFO was determined using melanin content inhibition. Results: SFO contains more than 60% polyunsaturated fatty acids followed by saturated fatty acids (up to 37%). The most abundant component found in SFO was linoleic acid (C18:2 n-6 cis). Multiple anti-oxidant mechanisms of SFO were discovered. In addition, SFO and krill oil prevented hyaluronic acid (HA) degradation via strong HAase inhibition comparable with the positive control, oleanolic acid. The molecular docking confirmed the binding interactions and molecular recognition of major free fatty acids toward HAase. Furthermore, SFO exhibited no cytotoxicity on primary human skin fibroblasts, HaCaT keratinocytes and PBMCs (IC50 values > 200μg/mL). SFO possessed significant in-situ anti-oxidant activity in UVB-irradiated fibroblasts and the melanin inhibition activity as effective as well-known anti-pigmenting compounds (kojic acid and arbutin, p < 0.05). Conclusion: This study provides scientific support for various aspects of SFO. SFO can be considered an alternative oil ingredient in cosmetic products with potential implications for anti-skin aging, whitening and UVB protection properties, making it a potential candidate oil in the cosmetic industry.

Lycium barbarum ethanol extraction: Application as cosmetic product ingredients

Plant seed oils and extracts are widely used in cosmetic industry to provide the skin with a variety of benefits. Due to the paucity of bioactivity studies on Lycium barbarum and its skin care applications, Lycium barbarum seed oil (LBSO) was utilized to create stable oil-in-water emulsions, and Lycium barbarum fruit extract (LBE) was used as a functional ingredient in cosmetic formulations We optimized the biological activity, storage stability, and physicochemical properties of LBSO when added to O/W emulsions (antioxidant, anti-tyrosinase, and anti-aging). The LBE emulsion [15 % L. barbarum seed oil (F3) and 1 % LBE] showed the highest physical and storage stability (pH 6.02). TPC and TFC had respective values of 2.146 ± 0.013 mg Gallic acid equivalent (GAE)/g and 1.099 ± 0.012 mg Rutin equivalent (RE)/g. For anti-aging purposes, LBE emulsion could inhibit hyaluronidase (44.74 ± 2.05 %), elastase protease (26.59 ± 2.56 %), and melanogenesis (34.35 ± 1.77 %). Overall, our current findings speculate the development of anti-aging cosmetic products using L. barbarum.

Physicochemical Properties, Antioxidant and Anti-Tyrosinase Activities of Durio zibethinus Murray and Value Added for Cosmetic Product Formulation

Durio zibethinus Murray, or durian fruit, is considered the “King of fruit” in various parts of Southeast Asia. It is classified in the Durio genus, which has been reported to be beneficial in the medical and pharmaceutical industry. The objective of this study was to investigate the physicochemical properties, biological activities, and cosmetic applications of the polysaccharide extractions from the green (GH) and white (WH) fruit-hulls and the ethanolic extracts from the pulp (P) and seeds (S) of D. Zibethinus. The extracts were developed as cosmetic products, and skin irritation was assessed by volunteers. P, S, GH, and WH extracts gave percentage yields of 12.13, 4.01, 1.60, and 1.18, respectively. The morphological structure of GH was highly porous, while the surface of WH was flattened, with no porosity observed. The seed extract showed the highest total phenolic content and antioxidant activity (DPPH) of 0.33 ± 0.01 mg GAE/g and IC50 0.08 ± 0.00 mg/mL, respectively, while no anti-tyrosinase activity was detected in any individual extract. The total phenolic content, DPPH assay, and anti-tyrosinase activity after blending the extracts were significantly (p &lt; 0.05) higher than in the individual extracts. Combining extracts such as SGH and SGWH gave IC50 values of anti-tyrosinase activity at 8.69 ± 1.82 mg/mL and 0.067 ± 0.00 mg/mL, respectively. No durian extracts exhibited growth inhibition against Staphylococcus aureus, Streptococcus pyogenes, and Cutibacterium acnes. A gel formulation containing durian extract was prepared by a cold process. It had good stability, with no skin irritation reported by the volunteers. Both crude durian and polysaccharide extracts showed promise as active ingredients in cosmetic products.

Hidden threat lurking in extensive hand hygiene during the Covid-19 pandemic: investigation of sensitizing molecules in gel products by hyphenated chromatography techniques

During the Covid-19 pandemic, health agencies worldwide have recommended frequent handwashing and sanitizing. A variety of hand gel products were made available on the market, often with fragrances added to curtail the strong smell of alcohol. Commonly used Citrus fragrances contain volatile aroma constituents and non-volatile oxygen heterocyclic compounds (OHCs), consisting mostly of polymethoxyflavones, coumarins, and furocoumarins. The latter have long been investigated for their phototoxic properties, and their safety as cosmetic product ingredients has been debated recurrently. To this concern, twelve commercial Citrus-scented products were investigated in this study. An extraction method was optimized for thirty-seven OHC compounds, obtaining absolute mean recovery values in the 73.5–116% range with only few milliliters of solvent consumption. Analysis by ultra-high-pressure liquid chromatography with tandem mass spectrometry detection evidenced that three samples did not conform to the labeling requirements for fragrance allergens (coumarin) laid down by the European Union Regulation on Cosmetic Products. The total furocoumarin (FC) content of the samples investigated was in the 0.003–3.7ppm range, with some noteworthy exceptions. Specifically, in two samples, the total FCs were quantified as 89 and 219 ppm, thus exceeding the safe limits recommended up to a factor of 15. Finally, the consistency of the volatile fingerprint attained by gas chromatography allowed drawing conclusions on the authenticity of the Citrus fragrances labeled, and several products did not conform to the information reported on the label concerning the presence of essential oils. Besides the issue of product authenticity, analytical tools and regulatory actions for widespread testing of hand hygiene products are urgent, to protect consumers’ health and safety.Graphical

History of Natural Ingredients in Cosmetics

There has been interest in the history of cosmetics for the last several decades. In part, this renewed curiosity is probably due to the revolutionizing natural movement in the cosmetic industry. In this article, we provide an overview of the historical aspects of the use of natural ingredients in cosmetics, which mostly come from botanical and mineral sources. We begin with an introduction to the art and science of cosmetics in the ancient world, which includes accounts of Egyptian, Mesopotamian, Greek, and Roman cosmetics as well as Traditional Chinese Medicine and Ayurvedic Medicine. These dermatological and cosmetic practices, which were advanced for the time, paved the way for the current revolution of natural ingredients in cosmetic products. Without providing a comprehensive historical account, we surveyed selected cultures during different periods of time to provide some perspective of our current understanding of natural ingredients in cosmetics. Attention is also given to the rich contributions of body art by tribal societies to our knowledge base, especially in the areas of dyes and pigments. Finally, we offer some perspective of natural ingredient cosmetics in the Information Age.

Active substances of natural origin with photoprotective effects

Ultraviolet (UV) radiation is harmful to the human body as it generates free radicals, accelerates the skin aging process, causes discoloration and leads to the cancer development. Year-round protection against these harmful actions is very important. In modern photoprotective cosmetics, there are both mineral and chemical filters. However, natural filters deserve more attention, as they are common ingredients in cosmetic products. The aim of the article was to present selected active substances of natural origin with sunscreen properties. Skin pigmentation, types of photoprotective ingredients and selected natural substances were characterized.

Highlighting the Cosmeceutical Potential of the Edible Bunium alpinum Waldst&amp; Kit (Apiaceae) Growing in Algeria: in vitro Antioxidant and Photoprotective Effects

The interest of using natural ingredients in cosmetic products has getting increased specially developing in new photoprotective formulations. In this study, it was undertaken to evaluate the cosmeceutical potential of the aerial parts of the species Bunium alpinum Waldst. &amp;amp; Kit (Apiaceae family) growing Algeria, by assessing their photoprotective and antioxidant effects. For this purpose, the total antioxidant capacity and activity were determined by using phosphomolybdenum and DPPH· radical scavenging methods. The in vitro photoprotective effect against UV-B radiations was determined according to the Sun Protection Factor (SPF) by using UV spectrophotometer at the range between 290 and 320 nm and Mansur equation. It was clear that among the tested extract, content of phenolic compounds and flavonoids of butanolic extract (Ba-BuOH) had higher than other extracts and it possessed strong antioxidant activity in DPPH· radical scavenging (20.65±0.017 mg VCE/g) and total antioxidant activity (196.69±4.08 mg VCE/g) assays. Similarly, its major compound Apigenin-7-O-rutinoside exhibited high photoprotective activity in UVB and UVA range and the SPF values were (14.70±0.11 and 32.80±0.5, respectively). The results gathered from our work reveal the using possibility of this extract and its major as antioxidant and sunscreening agent in cosmetic formulations.

Synthesis and Characterization of Curcumin-Chitosan Loaded Gold Nanoparticles by Oryctes rhinoceros' Chitin for Cosmeceutical Application.

A breakthrough in cosmeceuticals by utilizing insects as major ingredients in cosmetic products is gaining popularity. Therefore, the interest in rare sources of ingredients, for instance, from the Oryctes rhinoceros beetle, can bring huge benefits in terms of turning pests into wealth. In this study, curcumin was chosen as the active ingredient loaded into chitosan-gold nanoparticles (CCG-NP). Curcumin is unstable and has poor absorption, a high rate of metabolism, and high sensitivity to light. These are all factors that contribute to the low bioavailability of any substance to reach the target cells. Therefore, chitosan extracted from O. rhinoceros could be used as a drug carrier to overcome these limitations. In order to overcome these limitations, CCG-NPs were synthesized and characterized. Chitosan was isolated from O. rhinoceros and CCG-NPs were successfully synthesized at 70 °C for 60 min under optimal conditions of a reactant ratio of 2:0.5 (0.5 mM HAuCl4: 0.1% curcumin). Characterizations of CCG-NP involved FTIR analysis, zeta potential, morphological properties determination by FE-SEM, particle size analysis, crystallinity study by XRD, and elemental analysis by EDX. The shape of the CCG-NP was round, its size was 128.27 d.nm, and the value of the zeta potential was 20.2 ± 3.81 mV. The IC50 value for cell viability is 58%, indicating a mild toxicity trait. To conclude, CCG-NP is a stable, spherical, nano-sized, non-toxic, and homogeneous solution.

Optimization of Cyclodextrin-Assisted Extraction of Phenolics from Helichrysum italicum for Preparation of Extracts with Anti-Elastase and Anti-Collagenase Properties

Helichrysum italicum is a plant traditionally used for skin-related disorders that is becoming an increasingly popular ingredient in cosmetic products. In this work, a "green" ultrasound-assisted extraction method for H. italicum phenolics was developed using skin-friendly cyclodextrins (CDs). Extraction conditions needed for the greatest yield of target compounds (total phenolics, phenolic acids, and flavonoids) were calculated. The composition of the extracts was determined using LC-MS and spectrophotometric methods. Among the tested CDs, 2-hydroxylpropyl-beta-CD (HP-β-CD) was the best suited for extraction of target phenolics and used to prepare two optimized extracts, OPT 1 (the extract with the highest phenolic acid content) and OPT 2 (the extract with the highest total phenol and flavonoid content). The extracts were prepared at 80 °C, using 0.089 g of plant material/g solvent (0.6 mmol of HP-β-CD), with or without addition of 1.95% (w/w) lactic acid. The main metabolite in both extracts was 3,5-O-dicaffeoylquinic acid. It was found that the addition of lactic acid greatly contributes to the extraction of arzanol, a well-known anti-inflammatory agent. IC50 values of the anti-elastase (22.360 ± 0.125 μL extract/mL and 20.067 ± 0.975 for OPT-1 and OPT-2, respectively) and anti-collagenase (12.035 ± 1.029 μL extract/mL and 14.392 ± 0.705 μL extract/mL for OPT-1 and OPT-2, respectively) activities of the extracts surpassed those of the applied positive controls, namely ursolic and gallic acids. This activity deems the prepared extracts promising ingredients for natural cosmetics, appropriate for direct use in cosmetic products, removing the need for the evaporation of conventional solvents.

Anti-Photoaging Effect of Phaseolus angularis L. Extract on UVB-Exposed HaCaT Keratinocytes and Possibilities as Cosmetic Materials.

Phaseolus angularis L. is widely cultivated and is considered a superfood because of its nutritious protein and starch contents. Nevertheless, P. angularis's effects on skin photoaging are unknown. The aim of this study was to research the effects of P. angularis seed extract (PASE) on photoaging in human keratinocytes (HaCaT) damaged by UVB radiation so as to find out whether PASE can be used as an effective anti-photoaging ingredient in cosmetic products. The antioxidant activities were assessed using 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH), 2,2'-azino-bis-(3-ethylbenzothiazoline)-6-sulfonic acid (ABTS) radical scavenging, and reactive oxygen species (ROS) assays. Enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay (ELISA) analysis was used to determine the change in matrix metalloproteinase (MMP)-1, and MMP-3. The protein levels of mitogen-activated protein kinase (MAPK)/activator protein (AP)-1, transforming growth factor beta (TGF)-β/suppressor of mothers against decapentaplegic (Smad), and NF-E2-related factor (Nrf)2/antioxidant response element (ARE) were measured by western blot. As a result, PASE increased DPPH and ABTS antioxidant activities in a dose-dependent manner. Additionally, PASE treatment (100 µg/mL) significantly reverted the damage induced by UVB (125 mJ/cm2) irradiation by downregulating ROS, matrix metalloproteinase (MMP)-1, and MMP-3 secretion and expression and increasing procollagen type I production. To suppress MMP-1 and MMP-3 secretion, PASE significantly decreased UVB-induced p38 and JNK phosphorylation and phosphorylated c-Fos and c-Jun nuclear translocation. PASE promoted collagen I production by inhibiting UVB-induced TGF-β activation and Smad7 overexpression; antioxidant properties also arose from the stimulation of the Nrf2-dependent expression of the antioxidant enzymes heme oxygenase (HO)-1 and quinone oxidoreductase (NQO)-1. Our data demonstrated that PASE has the potential to prevent ROS formation induced by UVB exposure by targeting specific pathways. Thus, PASE might be a potent anti-photoaging component to exploit in developing anti-aging products.

Properties, forms and biological effects of vitamin C in skin therapies

Due to its properties, vitamin C is one of the most popular ingredients in cosmetic products. It is found in ampoules, serums, masks, or creams. Depending on the form of the vitamin that is contained in a particular product, its action may differ. The aim of this article was to collect the latest information and analyze the results of studies on the effects of different forms of vitamin C on the skin. Vitamin C is one of the leading substances used in beauty salons as well as in-home care. It exhibits a strong antioxidant effect, protects the skin against the appearance of premature signs of skin aging, and is used in the treatment of the discoloration. There are also published reports on the use of vitamin C in therapies supporting the treatment of cancer.