Cosmetic Ingredients Research Articles

In Vitro Safety and Efficacy Evaluation of a Juniperus communis Callus Culture Extract and Matricaria recutita Processing Waste Extract Combination as a Cosmetic Ingredient.

For skin health promotion and cosmetic applications, combinations of plant cell extracts are extensively utilized. As most natural ingredient suppliers offer crude extracts from individual plants or specific isolated compounds, the potential interactions between them are assessed in the development phase of cosmetic products. The industry seeks extract combinations that have undergone optimization and scrutiny for their bioactivities. This study presents a combination of two sustainably produced botanical ingredients and outlines their chemical composition, in vitro safety, and bioactivity for skin health enhancement. The amalgamation comprises the extract of Matricaria recutita processing waste and the extract from Juniperus communis callus culture. Chemical analysis revealed distinct compounds within the extracts, and their combination led to a broader array of potentially synergistic compounds. In vitro assessments on skin cells demonstrated that the combination possesses robust antioxidant properties and the ability to stimulate keratinocyte proliferation, along with regulating collagen type I and matrix metalloproteinase 1 (MMP-1) production by dermal fibroblasts. The identified traits of this combination render it an appealing cosmetic component. To the best of our knowledge, this represents the first case when the extracts derived from medicinal plant processing waste and biotechnological plant cell cultivation processes have been combined and evaluated for their bioactivity.

Antioxidant and Antimelanogenic Activities of Lactobacillus kunkeei NCHBL-003 Isolated from Honeybees.

Excessive reactive oxygen species production can detrimentally impact skin cell physiology, resulting in cell growth arrest, melanogenesis, and aging. Recent clinical studies have found that lactic acid bacteria have a special effect directly or indirectly on skin organs, but the exact mechanism has not been elucidated. In this study, we investigated the mechanisms underlying the antioxidant protective effect and the inhibitory effect on melanin synthesis of Lactobacillus kunkeei culture supernatant (CSK), isolated from Apis mellifera Linnaeus (the Western honeybee). CSK exhibited notable efficacy in promoting cell migration and wound healing under oxidative stress, surpassing the performance of other strains. CSK pretreatment significantly upregulated the expression of Nrf2/HO-1 (nuclear factor erythroid 2-related factor 2/heme oxygenase-1), a key player in cellular defenses against oxidative stress, relative to the control H2O2-treated cells. The DCF-DA (dichloro-dihydro-fluorescein diacetate) assay results confirmed that CSK's ability to enhance Nrf2 and HO-1 expression aligns with its robust ability to remove H2O2-induced reactive oxygen species. Furthermore, CSK upregulated MAPK (mitogen-activated protein kinase) phosphorylation, an upstream signal for HO-1 expression, and MAPK inhibitors compromised the wound-healing effect of CSK. Additionally, CSK exhibited inhibitory effects on melanin synthesis, downregulating melanogenesis-related genes in B16F10 cells. Thus, the present study demonstrated that CSK exhibited antioxidant effects by activating the Nrf2/HO-1 pathway through MAPK phosphorylation, thereby restoring cell migration and demonstrating inhibitory effects on melanin production. These findings emphasize the antioxidant and antimelanogenic potential of CSK, suggesting its potential use as a therapeutic agent, promoting wound healing, and as an active ingredient in skin-lightening cosmetics.

Characterization of the mechanical properties of the cortex region of human hair fibers by multiparametric atomic force microscopy mapping

We show the benefit of the use of atomic force microscopy (AFM) in spectroscopy force mode (FV: force volume) for evaluation of the cosmetic active effectiveness in improving the mechanical properties of human hair fibers cortex region. For this, we characterized human hair fibers without and with chemical damage caused by bleaching process. Fiber and resin (embedding material) data were obtained simultaneously in the mapping in order to have the resin data as a reference to ensure a coherent comparison between data from the different fiber groups. Our AFM results, which were evaluated using statistical tests, demonstrated the degradation of fibers after bleaching, corroborating the findings of transmission electron microscopy analysis and the effectiveness of a cosmetic active ingredient in improving the Young's modulus (elastic modulus) (E) of the damaged fibers. We also found a radial decrease in the natural logarithm of Young's modulus ln(E) along the cross-section of the active group fiber, which is compatible with confocal Raman spectroscopy analysis by other authors, demonstrating variation of the active permeation with depth. We note that Young's modulus was also determined by a tensile tester (macro-scale technique), in which it was not possible to obtain statistically significant differences between the groups, evidencing the advantage of the FV-AFM analysis. We also found an increase in ln(E) accompanied by a decrease in maximum adhesion force between tip and sample (negative Pearson correlation coefficient). This result can be explained by the fact that structures composed of hydrophobic components have a higher Young's modulus than structures composed of hydrophilic components.•Bleaching damage and cosmetic hair treatment assessed by AFM, TEM, and tensile tester.•Young's modulus by AFM nanoindentation of hair fibers monitored by sample standard.•Young's modulus changes radially along the cross-section due to the cosmetic active.•AFM data show statistically significant differences among sample groups.•Tensile tester was not able to show statistically significant differences.

Sensory signature of lignins, new generation of bio-based ingredients in cosmetics

Lignins represent a high interest in cosmetics as promising multifunctional ingredients. Despite this, uncovering the sensory profile of lignin-based emulsions has remained an unexplored frontier. This study aims to bridge this gap by employing expert sensory evaluation and instrumental characterization to assess the sensory attributes of lignin-based emulsions. A comparative analysis with commercial tinted products and discrimination among lignin derivatives were integral components of the research. Results underscored the distinctive sensory properties of lignin emulsions, exhibiting significantly higher “Integrity of shape” (7.0 ± 0.1) compared to commercial products (4.8 ± 0.1). Additionally, lignin emulsions displayed longer play-time until skin absorption (4.3 ± 0.1), contrasting with the quicker absorption of commercial products (2.7 ± 0.4) and their shorter play-time. Depending on application requirements, lignin derivatives offer formulators a versatile sensory toolbox. Discrimination of lignin emulsions on certain texture properties was achieved using various instrumental tools. Despite the complex formulation of commercial products compared to lignin emulsions, similar texture properties were observed, showcasing lignins' potential to replace multiple ingredients in tinted cosmetics. Beyond their established antioxidant, anti-UV, anti-bacterial, and emulsifying properties, this study reveals additional advantageous sensory properties of lignins, positioning them as promising plant-based sensory ingredients in sustainable cosmetic applications.

Enzymatically modified isoquercitrin and its protective effects against photoaging: In-vitro and clinical studies.

This research examines the anti-aging potential of the flavonoid derivative of isoquercitrin known as enzymatically modified isoquercitrin (EMIQ). Initial HPLC analyses showed that EMIQ used in the study contained 1-12 glucosides and 10.7% pentahydroxyflavonoids, promising potent antioxidant properties. In subsequent in-vitro studies with UVA-exposed human dermal fibroblasts (HDFa), EMIQ demonstrated protective properties by reducing collagen damage. It modulated both the TGFβ/Smad pathway and the MMP1 pathway, contributing to collagen preservation. This protective effect was further confirmed using the T-Skin™ model, a reconstructed full-thickness human skin model, which illustrated that EMIQ could defend the physiological structures of both the epidermis and dermis against UV radiation. A 28-day clinical trial with 30 volunteers aged 31-55 years highlighted EMIQ's effectiveness. Participants using EMIQ-containing Essence displayed reduced facial trans-epidermal water loss and skin roughness, alongside improved skin elasticity. This study emphasizes EMIQ's potential as an anti-photoaging ingredient in cosmetics, warranting further research. The findings pave the way for developing innovative skincare products addressing photoaging effects.

Virgin callpohyllum oil as a antioxidant potential and potential cosmetic active ingredient

Nyamplung seed oil has active compounds that can be utilized as the foundation for medications or cosmetics. The purpose of this study is to ascertain the impact of pressing temperature and drying duration on the production of VCphO, a cosmetic preparation, from nyamplung fruit. In this work, Virgin Callophyllum Oil (VCphO) was mechanically extracted at room temperature and heat using a screw press with drying fruit 3, 5, 7 days compare with oven drying. We looked at the pH and phytochemical composition of VCphO. Investigations also looked on antibacterial and antioxidant effects. The yield was unaffected greatly by hot or cold pressing. Pressing at room temperature results in a low acid number, making it the ideal treatment. The pH range of VCphO is 4 to 5.48, which is similar to skin pH. VCphO includes high levels of antioxidants (48–57 %) and total phenols (1–2.6 mg GAE/g sample). Terpenoids, quinon, flavonoids, and phenols are steroid chemicals that demonstrate the antioxidant and antibacterial properties of VCphO. VCphO has a very strong antibacterial against bacteria p.acnes and is weak on s.epidermis bacteria. Based on this, VCphO has the potential to be used in pharmacology.

Safety Assessment of Alkane Diols as Used in Cosmetics.

The Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety (Panel) assessed the safety of 10 alkane diol ingredients as used in cosmetics. The alkane diols are structurally related to each other as small diols, and most are reported to function in cosmetics as solvents. The Panel reviewed the relevant data for these ingredients, and concluded that seven alkane diols are safe in cosmetics in the present practices of use and concentration described in this safety assessment, but that the available data are insufficient to make a determination of safety for three ingredients, namely 1,4-Butanediol, 2,3-Butanediol, and Octanediol.

Safety Assessment of Butyrospermum parkii (Shea)-Derived Ingredients as Used in Cosmetics.

The Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety (Panel) assessed the safety of 13 Butyrospermum parkii (shea)-derived ingredients, which are most frequently reported to function in cosmetics as skin and hair conditioning agents. The Panel reviewed the available data to determine the safety of these ingredients. Because final product formulations may contain multiple botanicals, each containing similar constituents of concern, formulators are advised to be aware of these constituents and to avoid reaching levels that may be hazardous to consumers. Industry should use good manufacturing practices to limit impurities that could be present in botanical ingredients. The Panel concluded that these ingredients are safe in the present practices of use and concentration when formulated to be non-sensitizing.

Rapid determination of 87 prohibited ingredients in cosmetics by ultra performance liquid chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry

The methods of detecting numerous prohibited components are not included in the Technical Specifications for Cosmetic Safety (2015 Edition). Recently, owing to its high speed, sensitivity, and anti-interference properties, ultra performance liquid chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry (UPLC-MS/MS) became the preferred method of detecting banned substances in cosmetics. In this study, a UPLC-MS/MS method was developed for use in determining 87 prohibited ingredients in cosmetics, including 33 sex hormones, 20 anti-infective drugs, 15 antihistamines, 7 coumarins, 4 sedative-hypnotic drugs, 4 antipyretic and analgesic drugs, 2 allergenic fragrances, and 2 drugs with vasoconstriction effects. The main factors affecting the response, recovery, and sensitivity of the method, such as the type of extraction solvent, extraction time, ratio of the mobile phases, and MS conditions, were optimized during sample pretreatment and instrumental analysis. Accordingly, approximately 0.2 g of the toner or cream sample was dispersed in 2 mL acetonitrile in a 10 mL colorimetric tube. After diluting to 10 mL with 50% acetonitrile aqueous solution, the sample was ultrasonically extracted for 20 min and centrifuged, and the mixture was then filtered through a 0.22 μm membrane. Approximately 0.2 g of the oil sample was dispersed in 2 mL n-hexane in a 15 mL polypropylene centrifuge tube and extracted twice with 3 mL 70% acetonitrile aqueous solution. The extracts were transferred into a 10 mL colorimetric tube and diluted to 10 mL with 50% acetonitrile aqueous solution, and the mixture was then filtered through a 0.22 μm membrane. The samples were separated using a CORTECS C18 column (150 mm×2.1 mm, 2.7 μm), employing a gradient elution program with acetonitrile and 0.1% formic acid aqueous solution as the mobile phases. The flow rate, column temperature, and injection volume were respectively set at 0.3 mL/min, 40 ℃, and 2 μL. The 87 compounds were monitored in multiple reaction monitoring (MRM) mode with electrospray ionization (ESI) under positive and negative conditions. Matrix-matched external standard calibration was used for quantification, and the analysis was completed within 33 min. The prohibited compounds exhibited good linear relationships, with r values of >0.99, and the limits of detection (LODs) and quantification (LOQs) for the 87 compounds were 0.07-0.38 and 0.21-1.15 μg/g, respectively. Three types of cosmetic matrices were selected to verify the recovery and precision of the method at LOQ, 2 LOQ, and 10 LOQ levels. The average recoveries of the 87 prohibited compounds were in the range of 81.7%-115.4%, and the relative standard deviations (RSDs, n=6) were 0.4%-9.9%. The reliability of the developed method was demonstrated by applying it to 349 commercial cosmetics obtained from the market, and 8 positive samples were identified. The positive components included trimethoprim, terbinafine, naphazoline, 7-methoxycoumarin, and 7-methylcoumarin. The established method displays the advantages of simple operation and rapidness and a high sensitivity and good recovery. And, this method provides technical support for rapid risk screening and the revision of national standards for cosmetics.

Development and validation of PBPK models for genistein and daidzein for use in a next-generation risk assessment.

All cosmetic ingredients must be evaluated for their safety to consumers. In the absence of in vivo data, systemic concentrations of ingredients can be predicted using Physiologically based Pharmacokinetic (PBPK) models. However, more examples are needed to demonstrate how they can be validated and applied in Next-Generation Risk Assessments (NGRA) of cosmetic ingredients. We used a bottom-up approach to develop human PBPK models for genistein and daidzein for a read-across NGRA, whereby genistein was the source chemical for the target chemical, daidzein. An oral rat PBPK model for genistein was built using PK-Sim® and in vitro ADME input data. This formed the basis of the daidzein oral rat PBPK model, for which chemical-specific input parameters were used. Rat PBPK models were then converted to human models using human-specific physiological parameters and human in vitro ADME data. In vitro skin metabolism and penetration data were used to build the dermal module to represent the major route of exposure to cosmetics. The initial oral rat model for genistein was qualified since it predicted values within 2-fold of measured in vivo PK values. This was used to predict plasma concentrations from the in vivo NOAEL for genistein to set test concentrations in bioassays. Intrinsic hepatic clearance and unbound fractions in plasma were identified as sensitive parameters impacting the predicted Cmax values. Sensitivity and uncertainty analyses indicated the developed PBPK models had a moderate level of confidence. An important aspect of the development of the dermal module was the implementation of first-pass metabolism, which was extensive for both chemicals. The final human PBPK model for daidzein was used to convert the in vitro PoD of 33nM (from an estrogen receptor transactivation assay) to an external dose of 0.2% in a body lotion formulation. PBPK models for genistein and daidzein were developed as a central component of an NGRA read-across case study. This will help to gain regulatory confidence in the use of PBPK models, especially for cosmetic ingredients.

Olive pomace bioactives for functional foods and cosmetics

The reuse and valorization of olive mill by-products, among others, is getting attention in the food and drugs-cosmetics sectors, due the recovery of their essential bioactive compounds in order to incorporate them as ingredients in functional foods, cosmetics, and pharmaceuticals. Olive pomace represents olive mill's main residue (by-product), and it is a sustainable and of low-cost renewable source of several bioactive compounds, while its valorization can reduce its environmental impact and make it an additional economic resource for food industries in a circular economy design. In this article, the natural bio-functional compounds of olive pomace with antioxidant and anti-inflammatory bioactivities are thoroughly reviewed. The incorporation of such bioactives as ingredients in functional foods and cosmetics is also discussed in detail. The limitations of such applications are also presented. Thus, promising techniques, such as encapsulation, and their applications for stabilizing and masking undesirable characteristics of such compounds, are also exhibited. The so far promising in vitro outcomes seem to support further in vivo assessment in trials-based setting.

γ-Stearolactone Ring-Opening by Zeolites for the Production of Branched Saturated Fatty Acids

C18 branched saturated fatty acids (BSFA) are used as ingredients in cosmetics and lubricants and are produced via the hydrogenation of C18 branched unsaturated fatty acids (BUFA). Industrial-grade C18 BUFA...

Antigenotoxic and cosmetic potential of elderberry (Sambucus nigra) extract: protection against oxidative DNA damage.

The integrity of the genome is under constant threat from both endogenous and exogenous factors that induce oxidative stress and accelerate ageing. The demand for natural and organic cosmetics is rising due to the harmful effects of synthetic genotoxic agents on human health and the environment. Elderberry (Sambucus nigra L.), a fruit rich in bioactive compounds such as polyphenols, has demonstrated significant antioxidant properties. This study aimed to evaluate elderberry extract's chemical characterization and biological activities in peripheral blood mononuclear cells exposed to streptonigrin and H2O2, both known for causing DNA damage. The antigenotoxic evaluation and antioxidant assays (ABTS and DPPH) were conducted to assess its biological properties. Using the Comet assay enhanced with formamidopyrimidine-DNA glycosylase (Fpg) to detect oxidized purines, we found that elderberry extract significantly reduced DNA damage. These findings suggest that elderberry has potential as a natural alternative to synthetic ingredients in cosmetics, offering protective benefits against DNA damage and contributing to anti-ageing and skin health.

Potential Beneficial Effects of Salvianic Acid A and Salvianolic Acid B in Skin Whitening

Objective Natural product-derived biomaterials are highly desired as possible ingredients in cosmetics, as they are often safe and effective. Salvianic acid A (SAA) and salvianolic acid B (SAB) are the primary water-soluble ingredients of Salvia miltiorrhiza Bunge ( Lamiaceae). These compounds have extensive applications as both effective and biocompatible bioactive agents for the treatment of various diseases including cardiovascular disorders, liver ailments, and neuroprotection. This study aimed to evaluate the skin-whitening effects of SAA and SAB on co-cultured human melanoma A375 cells and human keratinocytes HaCaT cells, with the intention of investigating their potential as cosmetic ingredients. Methods First, we assessed the SAA and SAB's efficacy on cells proliferation using MTT assay, as well as their inhibition on intracellular tyrosinase (TYR) activity. Next, we evaluated their effects on the mRNA expression levels of TYR and its related proteins. Furthermore, the whitening efficacy of SAA and SAB was assessed by observing the decrease in melanin content in treated human amalignant melanoma A375 and human keratinocyte HaCaT cells. Results Both SAA and SAB inhibited the activity of TYR and decreased the mRNA expression of TYR-related proteins, thereby inhibiting melanin synthesis. Conclusion Our results suggest that both SAA and SAB can be applied as natural and novel cosmetics materials having a whitening function, which could be beneficial in the cosmeceutical industry.

Adverse effects of Cosmetics on the Women Health

The Cosmetics used for beautification or enhancement of appearance are in high demand especially among the women but these products have deep dark side. Many additive chemicals in cosmetics like parabens, phthalates, polyethylene glycol, hydroquinone, resorcinol, 1,4 dioxane, trace heavy metals etc. are hazardous and pose a variety of health risks ranging from neurotoxicity, nephrotoxicity, carcinogenicity, endocrine disruption, reproductive disorders etc. Hence the safety of the cosmetics is an issue of prime concern. It is necessary to make people aware of cosmetic chemicals and their deleterious effects. The present study analyses the current scenario of cosmetic use in India, the behaviour of women consumers in Indian Cosmetic market in terms of age group using cosmetics, reasons for using cosmetics and expenditure on beauty products etc. The harmful chemical ingredients in cosmetics are discussed along with their adverse effects on health. The study is carried out with objective of making women aware of large number of toxic chemicals used in cosmetics and their negative health impacts. It will also draw attention of researchers and clinicians to investigate the likely causes of their negative consequences. A relatively new concept of green cosmetics is also mentioned, which are associated with less toxicity to human health and is suggested to be promoted and adopted by women.

Enhanced oxidative stability of deuterated squalene: the impact of labelling extent on chemical resilience.

The extent to which deuteration affects the oxidative stability of squalene, a nutrient and a commonly-used ingredient in cosmetics and vaccine adjuvants, has been quantified as a function of the extent of labelling. The formation of comedogenic peroxides was inhibited by levels of overall deuteration as low as 19%.

A systematic survey of online trade in the caterpillar fungusOphiocordyceps sinensis

AbstractAlthough wildlife trade has received considerable research and conservation attention, much of it has been focused on charismatic species, with taxa such as fungi receiving little or no attention despite being highly sought after. The caterpillar fungusOphiocordyceps sinensisis highly valued as an ingredient in cosmetics and medicines, and as an aphrodisiac and dietary supplement. Despite its livelihood and socio-economic significance, it has received little attention in either research or wildlife trade policy. Nevertheless, trade appears to be rampant, and growing online, and this is an emerging conservation challenge. Here we present a systematic survey of online trade in the caterpillar fungus during 2021. During this period, 168 advertisements were recorded on eight e-commerce platforms, both national and international. The grade of the caterpillar fungus advertised for sale fell into six categories. Fungi described as pure/organic/wild grade, which we categorized as authentic grade, had the highest median price (24 USD/g) and those described as medicine/food/cosmetic/beverage, which we categorized as consumption grade, had the lowest median price (0.04 USD/g). The highest advertised sale price was for caterpillar fungus of Bhutan origin (155 USD/g) advertised on the eBay e-commerce platform. Trade in caterpillar fungus on national and international online platforms is evident, and trade in other non-charismatic species is also likely burgeoning online but remains poorly documented. Further systematic surveys of online trade are required, not only to improve understanding of such trade but also to facilitate the development of effective conservation interventions and prevent undocumented overexploitation of important natural resources in developing countries.

An improved synthesis of Karahanaenone

Abstract: An improved synthesis of the monoterpene cyclic ketone karahanaenone, an ingredient in cosmetics, perfumery, and pest-control agents, is reported. The synthesis uses linalyl acetate as the starting material, which is converted to the epoxide with m-CPBA and submitted to an anhydrous lithium perchlorate catalyzed rearrangement to the corresponding ketone. Hydrolysis and thermolysis of the ketone afford karahanaenone in good yield. The catalyst can be recycled by simple dehydration and reused without affecting the yield for the rearrangement.

Scientific Evidence for the Cosmetic Skin and Hair Benefits of Hemp-derived Cannabinoids: A Review

Cannabinoids derived from hemp, known as phytocannabinoids, are a group of approximately 120 bioactive compounds found in the Cannabis sativa plant. They have gained increasing attention in recent years, emerging as promising ingredients in the cosmetics industry due to their proven therapeutic and cosmetic benefits for skin and hair. It is worth noting that they do not produce psychoactive effects associated with tetrahydrocannabinol (THC). This paper summarizes the available published in vitro, in vivo and human studies on cosmetic benefits of cannabinoids for hair and skin. Several of the mechanisms of action of cannabinoids are novel and entirely different from all other cosmetic ingredients because they interact with specific receptors in the hair and skin cells to turn “on” or “off” cellular processes. In addition, there are issues related to the formulation, legal requirements and regulatory considerations associated with incorporating cannabinoids into cosmetics formulations as discussed.

Protective Effect of Panax notoginseng Extract Fermented by Four Different Saccharomyces cerevisiae Strains on H2O2 Induced Oxidative Stress in Skin Fibroblasts.

To produce Panax notoginseng extract as a cosmetic ingredient through Saccharomyces cerevisiae fermentation. We first compared the total sugar content, polysaccharide content, reducing sugar content, total phenolic content, total saponin content, DPPH free radical, ABTS free radical, hydroxyl free radical scavenging ability and ferric reducing antioxidant power (FRAP) of Panax notoginseng fermented extract (pnFE) and unfermented extract (pnWE). Their potential correlations were analyzed by Pearson's correlation analysis. Then, the oxidative stress model of H2O2-induced MSFs was used to evaluate the effects of different pnFE on MSF viability, reactive oxygen species (ROS), malondialdehyde (MDA), and the activities of catalase (CAT), glutathione peroxidase (GSH-Px) and superoxide dismutase (SOD) to explore their protective effects on MSFs subjected to H2O2-induced cellular oxidative damage. Finally, their safety and stability were evaluated by using the red blood cell (RBC) test and hen's egg test-chorioallantoic membrane (HET-CAM) assay, and changes in pH and content of soluble solids, respectively. Compared with pnWE, pnFE has more active substances and stronger antioxidant capacity. In addition, pnFE has a protective effect on H2O2-induced oxidative stress in MSFs with appropriate safety and stability. PnFE has broad application prospects in the field of cosmetics.