Cosmetic Ingredients Research Articles

Unveiling the Lipid Features and Valorization Potential of Atlantic Salmon (Salmo salar) Heads

The sustainable utilization of co-products derived from the salmon processing industry is crucial for enhancing the viability and decreasing the environmental footprint of both capture and aquaculture operations. Salmon (Salmo salar) is one of the most consumed fish worldwide and a major species produced in aquaculture. As such, significant quantities of salmon co-products are produced in pre-commercialization processing/steaking procedures. The present study characterized a specific co-product derived from the processing of salmon: minced salmon heads. More specifically, this work aimed to reveal the nutritional profile of this co-product, with a special focus on its lipid content, including thoroughly profiling fatty acids and fully appraising the composition in complex lipids (polar lipids and triglycerides) for the first time. The antioxidant potential of lipid extracts from this salmon co-product was also studied in order to bioprospect lipid functional properties and possibly unveil new pathways for added-value applications. Our analysis indicated that these minced salmon heads are exceptionally rich in lipids. Oleic acid is the most prevalent fatty acid in this co-product, followed by palmitic acid, stearic acid, and linoleic acid. Moreover, relevant lipid indexes inferred from the fatty acid composition of this co-product revealed good nutritional traits. Lipidome analysis revealed that triglycerides were clearly the predominant lipid class present in this co-product while phospholipids, as well as ceramides, were also present, although in minimal quantities. The bioprospecting of antioxidant activity in the lipid extracts of the minced salmon heads revealed limited results. Given the high concentration of triglycerides, minced salmon heads can constitute a valuable resource for industrial applications from the production of fish oil to biodiesel (as triglycerides can be easily converted into fatty acid methyl esters), as well as possible ingredients for cosmetics, capitalizing on their alluring emollient properties. Overall, the valorization of minced salmon heads, major co-products derived from the processing of one of the most intensively farmed fish in the world, not only offers economic benefits but also contributes to the sustainability of the salmon processing industry by reducing waste and promoting a more efficient use of marine bioresources.

2-O-α-D-glucosyl glycerol production by whole-cell biocatalyst of lactobacilli encapsulating sucrose phosphorylase with improved glycerol affinity and conversion rate.

2-O-α-D-glucosyl glycerol (2-αGG) is a valuable ingredient in cosmetics, health-care and food fields. Sucrose phosphorylase (SPase) is a favorable choice for biosynthesis of 2-αGG, while its glucosyl-acceptor affinity and thermodynamic feature remain largely unknown, limiting 2-αGG manufacturing. Here, three SPases were obtained from lactobacilli and bifidobacteria, and the one encoded by Lb. reuteri SDMCC050455 (LrSP) had the best transglucosylation ability, with 2-αGG accounting for 86.01% in the total product. However, the LrSP exhibited an initial forward reaction rate of 11.83/s and reached equilibrium of 56.90% at 110h, indicating low glycerol affinity and conversion rate. To improve catalytic efficiency, the LrSP was overexpressed in Lb. paracasei BL-SP, of which the intracellular SPase activity increased by 6.67-fold compared with Lb. reuteri SDMCC050455. After chemically permeabilized with Triton X-100, the whole-cell biocatalysis of Lb. paracasei BL-SP was prepared and showed the highest activity, with the initial forward reaction rate improved to 50.17/s and conversion rate risen to 80.79% within 17h. Using the whole-cell biocatalyst, the final yield of 2-αGG was 203.21g/L from 1M sucrose and 1M glycerol. The food grade strain Lb. paracasei was used for the first time as cell factory to recombinantly express the LrSP and construct a whole-cell biocatalyst for the production of 2-αGG. After condition optimization and cell permeabilization, the whole-cell biocatalyst exhibited 23.89% higher equilibrium conversion and 9.10-fold of productivity compared with the pure enzyme catalytic system. This work would provide a reference for large-scale bioprocess of 2-αGG.

Nanotechnology in Cosmetics: An Overview

Nanotechnology is revolutionizing the treatment of skin diseases in cosmetics, offering safe and targeted delivery of active medications and cosmetic ingredients. The use of carrier systems in nanotechnology improves skin penetration and sustained drug action. Formulators are using technology exclusive to cosmetic products, such as vesicular, particulate systems, emulsions, nano capsules, nanotubes, nanocrystals, and dendrimers. Nanomaterials are also used in hair care products and nail formulations. Nanomaterials are used in modern cosmetic products, particularly in sunscreens due to their ability to protect the skin from harmful UV radiation which is carcinogenic. This review explores nanotechnologies in the cosmetic industry and their potential as next- generation smarter carrier systems. It highlights the advances in nano cosmeceuticals and the applications of nanotechnology in cosmetics. It also focuses on the regulations of nanotechnology in cosmetics and describes various routes of exposure to nano particles in the human body. Keywords: Nanotechnology, cosmetics, nanoparticles, regulations, advances

Exploring Cannabidiol (CBD) and Cannabigerol (CBG) Safety Profile and Skincare Potential

Cannabinoids have long been known for their bioactive properties, with their topical application as anti-inflammatory compounds being at the forefront of research for the past decade. Concurrently, the cosmetic market is a fast-growing industry in constant need of new biomolecules. In this work, we studied the safety profile for topical applications of two cannabinoids: cannabidiol (CBD) and cannabigerol (CBG) and assessed their potential as skin care ingredients. The CBG used in this work resulted from bio-fermentation, and to the best of our knowledge, there are no extensive reports on its safety and usage as a cosmetic ingredient. Our results show that CBD and CBG do not exhibit cytotoxicity, mutagenicity, or skin sensitization. Moreover, we verified an absence of primary irritability, accumulated irritability, phototoxicity and photosensitization, supporting the claims of dermatologically tested, hypoallergenic and non-irritating. While these cannabinoids did not show significant anti-aging effects by altering the extracellular matrix components (both in vitro and ex vivo), they demonstrated promise as protective agents against inflammation caused by air pollution. Specifically, they reduced the levels of pro-inflammatory cytokines, making them valuable in combating environmental skin damage. Overall, our results validate the safety of topical use of cannabinoids, while paving the way for further research in the beauty and personal care market as soothing agents.

Physicochemical Properties and Biological Activities of Polysaccharides from Panax Notoginseng Separated by Fractional Precipitation.

The dried root of Panax notoginseng is a medicinal and food ingredient. P. notoginseng polysaccharides (PNPs) have physicochemical properties, which have not been fully elucidated. This study aimed to identify a method to separate the PNP fractions and investigate their activities. PNPs were prepared from roots by hot water extraction, deproteinization, and decolorization. PNP20, PNP40, and PNP60 fractions were isolated through stepwise ethanol precipitation at 20 %, 40 %, and 60 % concentrations, respectively. The three polysaccharide fractions were characterized using chromatography, spectroscopy, and thermogravimetric analysis, and their moisture retention, antioxidant, and tyrosinase-inhibition properties were evaluated. Monosaccharide composition analysis showed that the three PNPs contained mannose (Man), galacturonic acid (GalA), glucose (Glc), galactose (Gal), and arabinose (Ara) in different molar ratios. HPGPC analysis demonstrated that the polysaccharides precipitated with higher ethanol concentrations had lower molecular weights (Mw). Furthermore, all PNPs had distinct moisturizing and hygroscopic properties and antioxidant activities, with PNP60 showing better antioxidant properties and a competitive mixture of hygroscopic properties and tyrosinase inhibition. The chemical composition and structural characteristics of PNPs could affect their functional attributes. PNP60 has the potential to be a moisturizer and antioxidant and could be used in the development of cosmetic ingredients.

Safety Assessment of Ascorbyl Glucoside and Sodium Ascorbyl Glucoside as Used in Cosmetics.

The Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety (Panel) reviewed the safety of Ascorbyl Glucoside and Sodium Ascorbyl Glucoside in cosmetic products. These ingredients are reported to have the following functions in cosmetics: antioxidant, and skin-conditioning agent-miscellaneous. The Panel reviewed data relevant to the safety of these ingredients in cosmetic formulations, and concluded that Ascorbyl Glucoside and Sodium Ascorbyl Glucoside are safe in cosmetics in the present practices of use and concentration described in this safety assessment.

Safety Assessment of Wheat-Derived Ingredients as Used in Cosmetics.

The Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety (Panel) assessed the safety of 27 wheat-derived ingredients. Most of these ingredients are reported to function as skin conditioning agents in cosmetic products. The Panel reviewed the available data to determine the safety of these ingredients. Industry should continue to use good manufacturing practices to limit impurities that could be present in botanical ingredients. The Panel concluded that 21 wheat-derived ingredients are safe in cosmetics in the practices of use and concentration described in this safety assessment. However, the Panel also concluded that the available data are insufficient to make a determination of safety that the remaining six wheat-derived ingredients are safe under the intended conditions of use in cosmetic formulations.

Safety Assessment of Alkyl Amide MIPA Ingredients as Used in Cosmetics.

The Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety (Panel) assessed the safety of 14 alkyl amide MIPA ingredients as used in cosmetics. All of these ingredients are reported to function in cosmetics as a surfactant - foam booster and/or viscosity increasing agent. The Panel considered the available data, as well as data on read-across sources, and concluded these ingredients are safe in cosmetics in the present practices of use and concentration described in this safety assessment when formulated to be non-irritating.

A Study of the Potential of Solidago virgaurea Extract as a Raw Material for Cosmetic Macroemulsions

The use of Solidago virgaurea extract as a raw material for cosmetics production fits the eco-tendency prevalent in the cosmetic industry for many years now perfectly. The study reported in this paper included an evaluation of the potential of the above-mentioned plant extract as a natural cosmetic ingredient applied in the form of cosmetic macroemulsions. The physicochemical parameters (pH, viscosity, particle size distribution) and physical stability (multiple light scattering) of the cosmetic formulations containing Solidago virgaurea (1.0 wt.%) were studied. An in vivo study was carried out on a group of 20 female volunteers. The results showed a high compatibility of the tested extract with the other components in the macroemulsion in the form of a serum for the body, which was the formulation containing Sorbitan Stearate as an emulsifier. Analysis of the results revealed a relation between the compatibility of the investigated herbal extract with the components of the cosmetic base and the effectiveness of this extract as an active substance. As a result of an improvement in the application parameters, an over 70% increase in the level of epidermis moisturization was observed along with other beneficial changes in the parameters of skin macrorelief and topography.

An emerging epidemic of allergic contact dermatitis due to phytonadione epoxide (oxidised vitamin K1).

Reports of allergic contact dermatitis (ACD) to phytonadione epoxide (PE) in cosmetics suggest that PE is as powerful a sensitiser as its parent compound phytonadione. To evaluate a case series of ACD to PE in Spain. We reviewed the records of 20 patients with ACD to cosmetics containing PE diagnosed across Spain between January 2019 and June 2023. All 20 patients developed patch test (PT) or repeated open application test (ROAT) reactions to cosmetics containing PE. All involved women with eyelid eczema. PT or ROAT with PE preparations were positive in 17/20 (85%). PE at 1%, 5%, 10% and 20% in pet. was patch-tested in 8/17, 14/17, 11/17 and 8/17 patients; being positive in 6/8 (75%), 13/14 (92.85%), 11/11 (100%) and 8/8 (100%), respectively. Regulators should, not only ban the specific dangerous cosmetic ingredients, but also consider to ban or keep under close surveillance those closely related products or derivatives that might potentially cause similar harmful effects. PTs with PE are suggested to be performed at a 5% concentration in pet. Higher concentrations (10% pet.) should be tested whenever PTs with 5% pet. PE are negative.

Constructing HairDB to facilitate exposome research using human hair

This study introduces HairDB, an online database serving as a comprehensive repository of hair-related chemicals for exposome research. HairDB was created via an integrative approach. It first extracted 4,184 unique hair-related chemicals through text mining of over 34 million PubMed abstracts and 5.2 million PubMed Central articles, followed by manual data checking. HairDB also applied an artificial intelligence-enabled search to discover organic aerosol biomarkers in literature. A set of 768 chemicals used in hair-related products was then curated through a combination of manual searches and data extraction from the Cosmetic Ingredient Database (CosIng) of the European Union. From manually reading review papers, 29 organic aerosol biomarkers were extracted. Furthermore, 3,679 known exposure chemicals extracted from the Toxin and Toxin Target Database (T3DB) were incorporated in HairDB to represent the possible environmental exposures detected on hair surfaces. The comprehensive set of chemicals captured in HairDB represents the current knowledge of what can be found in and on hair. HairDB was constructed as a user-friendly web interface, allowing easy exploration of hair-related chemicals and tailored for annotating mass spectrometry-based hair exposomics data. The development of HairDB marks an important step forward in using hair as a biological matrix for chemical exposure measurement, facilitating the adoption of hair for exposome research. HairDB is publicly available at https://www.hairdb.ca/.

Endocrine-disrupting chemicals – pesticide regulatory issues from the EU perspective

Endocrine-disrupting chemicals (EDCs), including substances used in plant protection products (PPPs), are a source of ongoing concern for the EU society. Under the EC Regulation 1107/2009, the endocrine-disrupting (ED) properties of active substances, safeners, and synergists used in PPPs shall be investigated. The scientific criteria established by the Regulation (EU) 2018/605 and the joint guidance of the European Chemicals Agency (ECHA)/European Food Safety Authority (EFSA) provide the basis for this assessment. Data requirements for the approval of safeners and synergists have been recently published in Commission Regulation (EU) 2024/1487, allowing a consistent assessment of these substances. The approach to assessing co-formulant hazards is currently a subject of EU-wide discussion. It outlines the necessity to take into account information or evaluation data from other than pesticides' EU regulatory frameworks, such as REACH or SCCS applications for cosmetic ingredients. This paper outlines: a) current EU approach applied for identification of endocrine disrupting properties of pesticides; b) issues related to European regulations that may have an indirect impact on the safe use of plant protection products and c) an analysis of the European Commission's activities aimed to limit exposure to EDCs associated with use of PPPs in the society.

Antioxidant and Anti-Inflammatory Effects of Curcuma Longa Extracts and Fractions on Skin Inflammation

Addresses the impact of modern society’s rapid industrialization and environmental pollution, leading to increased oxidative stress and immune system disorders. Skin barrier issues have resulted in a rise in inflammatory skin conditions, sparking heightened interest in functional cosmetics to address these concerns and combat aging. The research focused on exploring natural ingredients, particularly specific fractions of <i>Curcuma Longa</i> extracts, known for their antioxidant properties. The results of this study are summarized as follows. In the first stage experiment, DPPH radical scavenging activity and ABTS radical scavenging activity were investigated, and fractions exhibiting higher scavenging activity than extracts were sought. In the 2nd-step experiment, the cell survival rate was examined to determine the concentration that would not affect cytotoxicity. To demonstrate significant anti-inflammatory effects on RAW 264.7 cells, inflammation reactions were induced by LPS and the production of Nitric Oxide (NO) was controlled. As a result, <i>Curcuma Longa</i> extracts and fractions all proved excellent control effects on NO production. In HaCaT cells, skin inflammation was induced with TNF-α/IFN-γ and the control of interleukin (IL)-6 production was measured. As a result, <i>Curcuma Longa</i> extracts and fractions proved to facilitate the immune reaction and control the reaction that would lead to inflammation. In the following 3rd-step experiment, the control of Chemokine’s major factors IL-8, RANTES, and TARC was measured. As a result, it was verified that certain fractions of <i>Curcuma Longa</i> of extract showed excellent Chemokine production control effects and thus that these specific fractions are effective on various inflammatory skin diseases. ICAM-1 expressions were observed to control the initial stage of inflammation in a way of cellular adhesion regulation, and the MAPK path which is important to regulate inflammatory reactions in the signaling system was measured. As a result, the inhibition of phosphorylation, which is important for initial inflammation inhibition and inflammatory reaction control, was verified. Based on the above-stated findings, active ingredients containing certain fractions were analyzed, and color reactions in specific fractions were induced from active ingredient spots of extract. In consideration of future material development and production, the quantitative and qualitative characteristics of active ingredients of certain fractions were examined with the HPLC, and it was verified that certain fractions contained more active ingredients than extracts. In conclusion, certain fractions of natural elements proved the great potentials as a cosmetics ingredient. Therefore, these fractions proved excellent anti-oxidative and anti-inflammatory effects in certain fractions, and the efficiency is quite high with only a small quantity of them. It is expected that these fractions are widely utilized as a cosmetic element, and the future study will examine natural cosmetic elements from these fractions with the aim to contribute to the functional cosmetics industry and anti-aging product market.

Preparation of safflower fermentation solution and study on its biological activity.

Safflower, a traditional Chinese medicine, is rich in chemical components including flavonoids, polysaccharides, and alkaloids. It exhibits pharmacological effects such as antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, anti-tumor, and anti-thrombosis properties, making it a valuable resource in the medical field. Furthermore, due to its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects, safflower is increasingly being utilized in the cosmetics industry. In this study, yeast was employed to ferment safflower, and the optimal fermentation conditions were established through single-factor experiments and response surface methodology. Subsequently, the antioxidant and anti-inflammatory efficacy of the safflower fermentation solution was assessed using both cellular and zebrafish models. Finally, the safety of the safflower fermentation solution was evaluated through a cosmetic eye irritation test. From a total of 20 yeast strains, YF-5 was identified as the dominant strain for safflower fermentation. By optimizing the fermentation conditions, it was established that the optimal parameters for YF-5 fermentation of safflower are as follows: a fermentation temperature of 36.55°C, a material-to-liquid ratio of 1:20.46, a fructose concentration of 6.20%, a fermentation duration of 72 h, and an inoculum volume of 4%. The biological activities of safflower, including its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, were enhanced through yeast fermentation. In HaCaT cell and zebrafish oxidative damage assays, safflower fermentation solution inhibits the production of malondialdehyde (MDA) and increases superoxide dismutase (SOD) activity as well as total antioxidant capacity (T-AOC). In the RAW264.7 cell inflammatory damage assays, a 20% safflower fermentation solution was found to inhibit the release of TNF-α and NO in the inflammatory model, with inhibition rates of 30.94 and 28.86%, respectively. In the zebrafish inflammatory damage assays, the quantity of fluorescent neutral proteins in the 5% safflower fermentation solution was 0.7 times that observed in the dexamethasone (0.1 mg/mL) positive control group, indicating that its anti-inflammatory activity is comparable to that of dexamethasone (0.1 mg/mL). In the chicken embryo chorionic membrane experiment, it was observed that the safflower fermentation solution did not cause significant damage to the blood vessels of the chorionic allantoic membrane (CAM). This finding demonstrates that the safflower fermentation solution possesses a certain degree of safety. Safflower fermentation solution has antioxidant and anti-inflammatory bioactivities, and it has passed cosmetic safety evaluations. It can be used as a new natural cosmetic ingredient added to cosmetic products.

Stability and efficacy of pterostilbene nanoliposomes in cosmetic applications: A comprehensive study

Pterostilbene (PT), a lipid-soluble polyphenol known for its antioxidant, anticancer, and various other biological properties, holds potential as an active ingredient in cosmetics for its anti-wrinkle and skin-whitening effects. However, its application is limited by its low water solubility and poor penetration through the stratum corneum. To address these limitations, this study initially prepared Pterostilbene nanoliposomes (PT-NLPs) using a high shear-microjet homogenization treatment method, because of the distinctive hydrophilic and hydrophilic properties of the liposomes. The stability under different storage conditions of the PT-NLPs was evaluated by investigating the alterations of the particle size, PDI, Zeta potential and surface morphology, combined with the test results of Lumisizer stability analyzer. Finally, the comprehensive performance of PT-NLPs was evaluated through in vitro dermal and transdermal testing, human testing, and instrument testing. The results showed that the PT-NLPs treated by the high shear-microjet homogenisation method proposed in this paper possessed a 1.7-fold increase in the retention performance compared with the free PT solution, and no penetration occurred on the blood-brain barrier, indicating that PT-NLPs would not cause toxicity to the organism. The human efficacy evaluation found that the PT-NLPs whitening serum could improve skin dullness, brighten skin tone, and improve skin sensitivity after 14 days of use. The high shear-microjet homogenisation method proposed in this paper for the treatment of PT-NLPs improved the transdermal delivery properties of PT. The process has a broad application prospect in the fields of medicine and cosmetics.

Spectrophotometric Determination of 4-n-butylresorcinol in Cosmetics by Decolorization of Oxidized 3,3',5,5'-tetramethylbenzidine

Background: 4-n-butylresorcinol (4nBR) was widely used in the treatment of chloasma and skin whitening cosmetics. As a decolorizing agent, it can effectively control the activity of tyrosinase. Market regulatory authorities require truthful labeling of ingredients in cosmetics. Therefore, the quantitative determination of 4nBR is of great practical significance. Hypothesis: At present, the main detection method of 4nBR reported in the literature is HPLC. Compared with the HPLC method, optical methods offer several advantages, including low cost, and simplicity, which make them suitable for on-field detection applications. A convenient spectrophotometric method was established for 4nBR detection. Methods: Fe3+ can oxidize the common colorless chromogenic substrate 3,3',5,5'- tetramethylbenzidine (TMB) to blue oxTMB. Based on the fact that 4-n-butyl resorcinol (4nBR) can reduce oxTMB, a convenient and rapid spectrophotometric method for the determination of 4nBR was proposed. Results: Under the optimum conditions, the absorbance at 652 nm has a good linear relationship with the concentration of 4nBR in the range of 1.2 - 16 μM. The linear equation for the detection of 4nBR was ΔA = 0.0546 c (μM) - 0.0026 (r2=0.9962), and the detection limit was 0.33 μM. The accuracy of this method is comparable to that of HPLC. Conclusion: This method has good selectivity for 4nBR and good anti-interference ability for common additives in cosmetics. The proposed method can be applied to the determination of 4nBR in thereal samples. other: Optical methods offer several advantages, including low cost, simplicity, which make them suitable for on-field detection application.

Stachys byzantina K. Koch (Lamiaceae) as a potential ingredient for delaying skin ageing and treating hyperpigmentation disorders in pharmaceutical products.

This study aimed to investigate whether the plant species Stachys byzantina produces bioactives with the potential to delay the skin ageing process and treat hyperpigmentation conditions. The antioxidant action was assessed by 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazylradical scavenging, Griess reaction, oxygen radical absorption capacity, and β-carotene bleaching assays. Inhibitory activities for tyrosinase, hyaluronidase, and elastase enzymes were tested. The antiglycation activity, the sun protection factor (SPF), and the toxicity to skin cells by MTT(3-(4,5-dimethylthiazolyl-2)-2,5-diphenyltetrazolium bromide)assay were also evaluated. The ethanolic extract of S. byzantina aerial parts and all fractions obtained by solvent partition inhibited the tyrosinase enzyme at different levels. The dichloromethane fraction (DF) demonstrated the highest inhibition (IC50 = 63.5±10.9 µg/ml). DF also inhibited the hyaluronidase enzyme with IC50 = 369±11.64 μg/ml and elastase by 40% at 500 μg/ml. This fraction showed prominent antioxidant and antiglycation activities, high SPF, and no cytotoxicity at concentrations lower than 50 μg/ml. The phenolic and flavonoid contents were 116.30±6.7 (mgTAE/g) and 66.38±13.5 (mgQE/g), respectively. Chlorogenic acid (23.54±2.46mg/g) and verbascoside (203.97±19.8mg/g) were identified and quantified. Stachys byzantina is a potential source of cosmetic and therapeutic ingredients to reduce hyperpigmentation and the impacts caused by free radicals, advanced glycation end products, and sun radiation in skin ageing.

Advanced HPLC Method with Diode Array Detection Using a Phenyl-Bonded Column for Simultaneous Quantitation of Three Sunscreen Filters in a Moisturizing Sunscreen Cream for Acne-Prone Skin

This study introduces a novel, robust, and efficient method for the simultaneous quantitative determination of three sunscreen filters, namely, 4-methylbenzylidene camphor, octyl methoxycinnamate, and avobenzone, in a moisturizing sunscreen cream specifically designed for acne-prone skin. The method employs high-performance liquid chromatography with photodiode-array detection, providing a reliable separation of the analytes. Chromatographic separation was achieved using a Fortis Phenyl analytical column (150.0 × 2.1 mm, 5 μm), with isocratic elution at a flow rate of 0.4 mL/min. The mobile phase was composed of a 57/43 (v/v) mixture of acetonitrile/45 mM aqueous ammonium formate solution, ensuring sufficient resolution and peak symmetry for the target compounds. The method was validated comprehensively for critical performance parameters, including linearity, precision, accuracy, and robustness. Linearity was established across a suitable range for all three analytes, with high correlation coefficients. Precision was confirmed with intra-run and total precision coefficients of variation of ≤4.6%, while accuracy assessments yielded a percent recovery between 98.6 and 100.4, for all quality control levels. Additionally, the method was able to effectively separate the sunscreen filters from other cosmetic ingredients, such as [β-(1.3), (1.6)-D-glucan], low molecular weight (LMW) hyaluronic acid and plant extracts ensuring specificity in complex formulations. This straightforward and time efficient sample preparation process, involving methanol extraction followed by serial dilution, makes the method suitable for routine quality control in cosmetic laboratories. The method was successfully applied to the analysis of two different lots of a commercial sunscreen cream, achieving excellent recovery for all filters, ranging between 94.6% and 99.8%, thus demonstrating its reliability and applicability for the quality control of cosmetics.

Nutshell Materials as a Potential Eco-Friendly Biosorbent for the Effective Extraction of UV Filters and Parabens from Water Samples.

UV filters and parabens, as ingredients of cosmetics, are commonly occurring water pollutants. In our work, nutshells were used as biosorbents in the developed analytical procedure for the determination of UV filters and parabens in water samples. The shells obtained from walnuts, hazelnuts, peanuts and pistachios were applied as biosorbents. The proposed analytical method can be used as a powerful alternative to other methods for the analysis of UV filters and parabens in water samples. A method of carrying out the sorption step and its parameters, i.e., the effect of time, pH, and salt addition, was developed. A method for the desorption of analytes was also developed, in which the type and volume of solvent, and the desorption time, were established. The recoveries were in the range of 59-117% for benzophenones and lower recoveries from 14 to 75% for parabens. The results showed that nutshells can be used as low-cost, efficient and eco-friendly biosorbents for the determination of parabens and UV filters in water samples. These materials can be used as a 'greener' replacement for the commercially available adsorbents for the extraction of cosmetic ingredients from the environment.

The research on the efficacy and safety of natural active ingredients in pharmaceutical cosmetics

In recent years, pharmaceutical cosmetics have experienced rapid development in fields such as skincare and anti-aging, particularly due to the multifunctionality and safety of natural active ingredients. These natural components, including plant extracts, marine bioextracts, and animal-derived ingredients, exhibit significant antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, reparative, and anti-aging effects, making them widely used in pharmaceutical cosmetics. However, despite being considered a safe choice, potential safety issues such as allergic reactions and photosensitivity still exist. Therefore, systematically studying the efficacy and safety evaluation of natural active ingredients, especially their applications in pharmaceutical cosmetics, is of great importance for driving industry innovation and ensuring product safety. This paper analyzes common natural active ingredients, explores their efficacy and safety evaluation standards, and proposes strategies to optimize their application.