Ikat Weaving Research Articles

Investigating cultural evolution using phylogenetic analysis: the origins and descent of the southeast Asian tradition of warp ikat weaving.

The warp ikat method of making decorated textiles is one of the most geographically widespread in southeast Asia, being used by Austronesian peoples in Indonesia, Malaysia and the Philippines, and Daic peoples on the Asian mainland. In this study a dataset consisting of the decorative characters of 36 of these warp ikat weaving traditions is investigated using Bayesian and Neighbornet techniques, and the results are used to construct a phylogenetic tree and taxonomy for warp ikat weaving in southeast Asia. The results and analysis show that these diverse traditions have a common ancestor amongst neolithic cultures the Asian mainland, and parallels exist between the patterns of textile weaving descent and linguistic phylogeny for the Austronesian group. Ancestral state analysis is used to reconstruct some of the features of the ancestral weaving tradition. The widely held theory that weaving motifs originated in the late Bronze Age Dong-Son culture is shown to be inconsistent with the data.

THE COMPOSITION AND THE CONTENT OF PIGMENTS FROM SOME DYEING PLANT FOR IKAT WEAVING IN TIMORRESE REGENCY, EAST NUSA TENGGARA

Ikat weaving is one of traditional-home industry using plant pigments as a dye which have not been known for their pigments composition. So, the research was carried out to know the composition and the content of pigments in young leaf teak, noni root, turmeric tuber, casuarine bark and betel-nut root. The result showed that pigment composition in young leaf teak consisted of β-carotene, pheophytine, phelargonydine 3-glucosyde, phelargonydine 3,7-diglucosyde, chlorophyllide and two other pigments that have not been identified. Most of the pigments composition in betel-nut root have not been identified, but one of them was condensed tanin. Noni root had pigment composition which consisted of hydrolised tanin, flavonoid and morindon. Pigment composition in turmeric tuber were curcumin, demethoxy curcumin and bis-demethoxy curcumin. Whereas casuarine bark had pigment composition which consisted of delphynidine, cyanydine and phelargonydine. The highest pigment concentration in young leaf teak, betel-nut root, noni root, tumeric tuber and casuarine bark was pheophytine, tanin condensation, morindon, curcumin and cyanidine, respectively. Keywords: ikat weaving, chlorophyll, carotenoid, anthocyanin

A Comparative Study of the Warp Ikat Patterned Textiles of Mainland Southeast Asia

This article examines the warp ikat patterned textiles of Mainland Southeast Asia. Although they have received far less attention than the warp ikat patterned textiles of Insular Southeast Asia they represent an extremely important part of the textile heritage of the region. Warp ikat patterned textiles are produced primarily in three areas of Mainland Southeast Asia: by the Thái of northwestern Vietnam and the adjacent area of Laos, by the Cham and some highland Mon-Khmer-speaking peoples in southern Vietnam and Laos, and by groups of Karen, Lawa, and Northern Tai (Khon Muang) in Burma and northern Thailand. After a brief survey of each of these warp ikat traditions, the article explores probable linkages between the three traditions. Finally, the article relates these data to the broader issue of the origin and spread of warp ikat weaving in Southeast Asia.