Human Skin Biopsies Research Articles

Full-Thickness Perfused Skin-on-a-Chip with In Vivo-Like Drug Response for Drug and Cosmetics Testing

In this study, we present a novel 3D perfused skin-on-a-chip model fabricated using micro-precision 3D printing, which offers a streamlined and reproducible approach for incorporating perfusion. Perfused skin models are well-regarded for their advantages, such as improved nutrient supply, enhanced barrier function, and prolonged tissue viability. However, current models often require complex setups, such as self-assembled endothelial cells or sacrificial rods, which are prone to variability and time-consuming. Our model uses projection micro-stereolithography 3D printing to create precise microcapillary-like channels using a biocompatible resin, overcoming the drug-absorbing properties of PDMS. A customized chip holder allows for the simultaneous culture of six perfused chips, enabling high-throughput testing. The engineered skin-on-a-chip features distinct dermis and epidermis layers, confirmed via H&E staining and immunostaining. To evaluate drug screening capabilities, inflammation was induced using TNF-α and treated with dexamethasone, with cytokine levels compared to 2D cultures and human skin biopsies. Our 3D model exhibited drug response trends similar to human skin, while showing reduced cytotoxicity over time compared to biopsies. This perfused skin-on-a-chip provides a reliable, physiologically relevant alternative for drug and cosmetics screening, simplifying perfusion setup while preserving key benefits.

Environmental fluoxetine promotes skin cell proliferation and wound healing

This study investigates the effects of environmentally-relevant concentrations of fluoxetine (FLX, commercial name: Prozac) on wound healing. Pollution of water systems with pharmaceutical and personal care products, including antidepressants such as FLX and other selective serotonin reuptake inhibitors, is a growing environmental concern. Environmentally-relevant FLX concentrations are known to impact physiological functions and behaviour of aquatic animals, however, the effects of exposure on humans are currently unknown. Using a combination of human skin biopsies and a human keratinocyte cell line, we show that exposure to environmental FLX promotes wound closure. We show dose-dependent increases in wound closure with FLX concentrations from 125 ng/l. Using several –omics and pharmaceutical approaches, we demonstrate that the mechanisms underlying enhanced wound closure are increased cell proliferation and serotonin signalling. Transcriptomic analysis revealed 350 differentially expressed genes after exposure. Downregulated genes were enriched in pathways related to mitochondrial function and metabolism, while upregulated genes were associated with cell proliferation and tissue morphogenesis. Kinase profiling showed altered phosphorylation of kinases linked to the MAPK pathway. Consistent with this, phosphoproteomic analyses identified 235 differentially phosphorylated proteins after exposure, with enriched GO terms related to cell cycle, division, and protein biosynthesis. Treatment of skin biopsies and keratinocytes with ketanserin, a serotonin receptor antagonist, reversed the increase in wound closure observed upon exposure. These findings collectively show that exposure to environmental FLX promotes wound healing through modulating serotonin signalling, gene expression and protein phosphorylation, leading to enhanced cell proliferation. Our results justify a transition from the study of behavioural effects of environmental FLX in aquatic animals to the investigation of effects of exposure on wound healing in aquatic and terrestrial animals, including direct impacts on human health.

51346 Use of mRNA and miRNA sequencing to demonstrate the clinical senomorphic and anti-aging activity of a combination of niacinamide and hyaluronic acid on human skin biopsies

51346 Use of mRNA and miRNA sequencing to demonstrate the clinical senomorphic and anti-aging activity of a combination of niacinamide and hyaluronic acid on human skin biopsies

Investigating Snake-Venom-Induced Dermonecrosis and Inflammation Using an Ex Vivo Human Skin Model.

Snakebite envenoming is a neglected tropical disease that causes >100,000 deaths and >400,000 cases of morbidity annually. Despite the use of mouse models, severe local envenoming, defined by morbidity-causing local tissue necrosis, remains poorly understood, and human-tissue responses are ill-defined. Here, for the first time, an ex vivo, non-perfused human skin model was used to investigate temporal histopathological and immunological changes following subcutaneous injections of venoms from medically important African vipers (Echis ocellatus and Bitis arietans) and cobras (Naja nigricollis and N. haje). Histological analysis of venom-injected ex vivo human skin biopsies revealed morphological changes in the epidermis (ballooning degeneration, erosion, and ulceration) comparable to clinical signs of local envenoming. Immunostaining of these biopsies confirmed cell apoptosis consistent with the onset of necrosis. RNA sequencing, multiplex bead arrays, and ELISAs demonstrated that venom-injected human skin biopsies exhibited higher rates of transcription and expression of chemokines (CXCL5, MIP1-ALPHA, RANTES, MCP-1, and MIG), cytokines (IL-1β, IL-1RA, G-CSF/CSF-3, and GM-CSF), and growth factors (VEGF-A, FGF, and HGF) in comparison to non-injected biopsies. To investigate the efficacy of antivenom, SAIMR Echis monovalent or SAIMR polyvalent antivenom was injected one hour following E. ocellatus or N. nigricollis venom treatment, respectively, and although antivenom did not prevent venom-induced dermal tissue damage, it did reduce all pro-inflammatory chemokines, cytokines, and growth factors to normal levels after 48 h. This ex vivo skin model could be useful for studies evaluating the progression of local envenoming and the efficacy of snakebite treatments.

P28 Data-independent acquisition mass spectrometry improves spatially resolved analysis of the human skin proteome

Abstract Introduction and aims Proteomic analysis of the extracellular matrix (ECM) presents challenges because of the highly crosslinked and low-solubility nature of ECM proteins. Traditional homogenization and protein digestion approaches result in the loss of crucial information regarding protein localization and spatial relationships. To address this, spatially resolved proteomics emerges as a powerful tool for exploring heterogeneity within bulk tissues. This study aims to determine the minimum tissue volume required for comprehensive proteome coverage using data-independent acquisition mass spectrometry (DIA-MS) on skin tissue. The study focused on optimizing spatially resolved proteomic techniques to enhance depth-of-analysis while preserving spatial specificity. Methods Human abdominal skin biopsies were obtained from a single individual and subsequently cryosectioned. Histological assessment was performed through haematoxylin and eosin staining for visualization purposes. Laser-capture microdissection coupled with mass spectrometry facilitated the precise isolation of target regions. Comparative analyses were performed between data-dependent acquisition mass spectrometry (DDA-MS) and DIA-MS, with a particular emphasis on ECM proteins within the dermis. Results Our findings revealed an improvement in proteome coverage with DIA-MS compared with DDA-MS, in addition to clear scaling relationships between the depth-of-analysis and sample concentration. The Results demonstrated the superiority of DIA-MS in achieving robust and comprehensive proteomic profiles, even with minimal tissue volumes. Preliminary findings suggest the capability of DIA-MS in elucidating the complexities of the skin proteome with spatial resolution. Conclusions In conclusion, our study highlights the efficacy of DIA-MS in spatially resolved proteomics on skin tissue. The optimized approach presented here offers a reliable and efficient method for obtaining in-depth proteome information with minimal tissue requirements. These Results form the foundation for ongoing experiments, utilizing DIA-MS to advance spatially resolved proteomic analyses of human skin.

EphB2 Receptor Promotes Dermal Fibrosis in Systemic Sclerosis.

Erythropoietin-producing hepatocellular (Eph)/Ephrin cell-cell signaling is emerging as a key player in tissue fibrogenesis. The aim of this study was to test the hypothesis that the receptor tyrosine kinase EphB2 mediates dermal fibrosis in systemic sclerosis (SSc). We assessed normal and SSc human skin biopsies for EphB2 expression. The in vivo role of EphB2 in skin fibrosis was investigated by subjecting EphB2-knockout mice to both bleomycin-induced and tight skin (Tsk1/+) genetic mouse models of skin fibrosis. EphB2 kinase-dead and overactive point mutant mice were used to evaluate the role of EphB2 forward signaling in bleomycin-induced dermal fibrosis. In vitro studies were performed on dermal fibroblasts from patients with SSc and healthy controls, which was followed by in vivo analysis of fibroblast-specific Ephb2-deficient mice. Expression of EphB2 is up-regulated in SSc skin tissue and explanted SSc dermal fibroblasts compared with healthy controls. EphB2 expression is elevated in two animal models of dermal fibrosis. In mice, EphB2 drives dermal fibrosis in both the bleomycin and the Tsk1/+ models of skin fibrosis. EphB2 forward signaling is a critical mediator of dermal fibrosis. Transforming growth factor-β (TGF-β) cytokines up-regulate EphB2 in dermal fibroblasts via noncanonical TGF-β/mother against decapentaplegic signaling, and silencing EPHB2 in human dermal fibroblasts is sufficient to dampen TGF-β-induced fibroblast-to-myofibroblast differentiation. Moreover, mice with fibroblast-specific deletion of EphB2 showed impaired fibroblast-to-myofibroblast differentiation and reduced skin fibrosis upon bleomycin challenge. Our data implicate TGF-β regulation of EphB2 overexpression and kinase-mediated forward signaling in the development of dermal fibrosis in SSc. EphB2 thus represents a potential new therapeutic target for SSc.

Exploring the Influence of Cold Plasma on Epidermal Melanogenesis In Situ and In Vitro.

Epidermal melanin synthesis determines an individual's skin color. In humans, melanin is formed by melanocytes within the epidermis. The process of melanin synthesis strongly depends on a range of cellular factors, including the fine-tuned interplay with reactive oxygen species (ROS). In this context, a role of cold atmospheric plasma (CAP) on melanin synthesis was proposed due to its tunable ROS generation. Herein, the argon-driven plasma jet kINPen® MED was employed, and its impact on melanin synthesis was evaluated by comparison with known stimulants such as the phosphodiesterase inhibitor IBMX and UV radiation. Different available model systems were employed, and the melanin content of both cultured human melanocytes (in vitro) and full-thickness human skin biopsies (in situ) were analyzed. A histochemical method detected melanin in skin tissue. Cellular melanin was measured by NIR autofluorescence using flow cytometry, and a highly sensitive HPLC-MS method was applied, which enabled the differentiation of eu- and pheomelanin by their degradation products. The melanin content in full-thickness human skin biopsies increased after repeated CAP exposure, while there were only minor effects in cultured melanocytes compared to UV radiation and IBMX treatment. Based on these findings, CAP does not appear to be a useful option for treating skin pigmentation disorders. On the other hand, the risk of hyperpigmentation as an adverse effect of CAP application for wound healing or other dermatological diseases seems to be neglectable.

Polarization-Based Digital Histology of Human Skin Biopsies Assisted by Deep Learning

Mueller polarimetry has proven to be a powerful optical technique to complement medical doctors in their conventional histology analysis. In this work, various degenerative and malignant human skin lesions were evaluated ex vivo using imaging Mueller polarimetry. The Mueller matrix images of thin sections of biopsies were recorded and the differential decomposition of Mueller matrices was applied pixel-wise to extract the polarization fingerprint of the specimens under study. To improve the classification accuracy, a deep learning model was created. The results indicate the sensitivity of polarimetry to different skin lesions and healthy skin zones and their differentiation, while using standard histological analysis as a ground truth. In particular, the deep learning model was found sufficiently accurate to detect and differentiate between all eight classes in the data set. Special attention was paid to the overfitting problem and the reduction of the loss function of the model. Our approach is an effort in establishing digital histology for clinical applications by complementing medical doctors in their diagnostic decisions.

Aberrant Lipid Metabolism in Macrophages Is Associated with Granuloma Formation in Sarcoidosis.

Rationale: Chronic sarcoidosis is a complex granulomatous disease with limited treatment options that can progress over time. Understanding the molecular pathways contributing to disease would aid in new therapeutic development. Objectives: To understand whether macrophages from patients with nonresolving chronic sarcoidosis are predisposed to macrophage aggregation and granuloma formation and whether modulation of the underlying molecular pathways influence sarcoidosis granuloma formation. Methods: Macrophages were cultivated invitro from isolated peripheral blood CD14+ monocytes and evaluated for spontaneous aggregation. Transcriptomics analyses and phenotypic and drug inhibitory experiments were performed on these monocyte-derived macrophages. Human skin biopsies from patients with sarcoidosis and a myeloid Tsc2-specific sarcoidosis mouse model were analyzed for validatory experiments. Measurements and Main Results: Monocyte-derived macrophages from patients with chronic sarcoidosis spontaneously formed extensive granulomas invitro compared with healthy control participants. Transcriptomic analyses separated healthy and sarcoidosis macrophages and identified an enrichment in lipid metabolic processes. In vitro patient granulomas, sarcoidosis mouse model granulomas, and those directly analyzed from lesional patient skin expressed an aberrant lipid metabolism profile and contained increased neutral lipids. Conversely, a combination of statins and cholesterol-reducing agents reduced granuloma formation both invitro and invivo in a sarcoidosis mouse model. Conclusions: Together, our findings show that altered lipid metabolism in sarcoidosis macrophages is associated with its predisposition to granuloma formation and suggest cholesterol-reducing therapies as a treatment option in patients.

An upcycled fraction of Melaleuca alternifolia essential oil regenerates the skin through the skin melatonin pathway and improves sleep quality.

Sleep is one of the most important factors affecting overall health. During the night, the skin repairs damage caused by daily stresses. Melatonin plays a key role in this process. Toxins are removed, and cellular repair and growth hormone production are increased. Inter alia, this also decreases signs of intrinsic aging. The current study was intended to demonstrate the impact of a unique fraction of Melaleuca alternifolia (FMA) essential oil, on sleep and skin quality. The effect of FMA was investigated invitro on skin cells, evaluating its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, and in an ex-vivo study on human skin biopsies treated with FMA following stress induction. In addition, two clinical studies were performed on volunteers with life-style-related sleep complaints. In one study, sleep was measured using a noncontact monitoring device (SleepScore Labs, Max). A second study was conducted to assess skin anti-aging effects. In vitro application of FMA reduced IL-8 and reactive oxygen species (ROS) generation in skin cells. This was confirmed exvivo through a decrease in inflammatory markers and an increase in antioxidant enzymes after stress induction. Interestingly, FMA also upregulated melatonin-associated genes. Real-world sleep tracking revealed that FMA significantly improved sleep quality, relative to unscented control. Invivo applications also showed a reduction in signs of aging. These results provide initial data to suggest that this unique FMA delivers skin anti-aging benefits via a two-pronged mode of action, improving sleep quality, and reducing skin inflammatory and oxidative stress.

Rabies surveillance in Madagascar from 2011 to 2021: can we reach the target?

Rabies is endemic in Madagascar and a neglected disease. The aim of this study was to summarize human and animal rabies surveillance activities in Madagascar from 2011 to 2021. Samples from terrestrial mammals and humans were tested for rabies virus infection using direct fluorescent antibody, RT-PCR and virus isolation by the National Reference Laboratory (NRL) for rabies at the Institut Pasteur de Madagascar. Among 964 animal and 47 human samples tested, 66.7 and 70.2% were positive, respectively. The NRL received these suspect rabies samples from 48 of 114 districts of Madagascar. Most of them were submitted from the district of the capital city Antananarivo (26.3%) and mainly from its region Analamanga (68.9%). Animal samples were mainly from dogs (83%), cats (9.5%) and cattle (5.8%). Pigs, lemurs, goats accounted for less than 1%. During the 11 years of surveillance, 48 human skin and/or brain biopsy samples were received from 20 districts, mainly from Antananarivo and its surroundings (N = 13), Toamasina and its surroundings (N = 8) and Moramanga (N = 6). The high positivity rate for all species and the non-homogeneous spatial distribution of samples suggests substantial underreporting of rabies cases. There is a clear need to better understand the reasons for underreporting and prioritize rabies surveillance, prevention and control in Madagascar, with improvements in budget, education and infrastructure. A joint animal and human health rabies control program including vaccination of at least 70% of the dog population, is needed to achieve the goal of eliminating dog-transmitted human rabies by 2030 from Madagascar.

Comparison of Two Human Skin Cell Isolation Protocols and Their Influence on Keratinocyte and Fibroblast Culture.

For the development of advanced therapies, the use of primary cells instead of cell lines is preferred. The manufacture of human tissue-engineered skin substitutes requires efficient isolation and culture protocols allowing a massive expansion of the cells in culture from an initial specimen of a minimal size. This study compared two skin cell isolation protocols, routinely applied in two clinical laboratories. Epithelial (keratinocytes) and dermal (fibroblasts) cells were isolated and cultured from three human skin biopsies (N = 3). The two-step digestion protocol (LOEX-Protocol) firstly used thermolysin to enzymatically disrupt the dermal-epidermal junction while, for the one-step digestion protocol (UPCIT-Protocol), mechanical detachment with scissors was applied. Then, the epidermal and dermal layers were digested, respectively, to achieve cell isolation. The cell size, viability, yield and growth were analyzed over five passages (P). The colony-forming efficiency (CFE) and Keratin 19 (K19) expression of epithelial cells were also assessed after P0 and P1. Regarding the dermal cells, no significant differences were observed in the tested parameters of isolation and culture. However, for the epithelial cells, viability was higher (93% vs. 85%) and the number of cells extracted per cm2 of skin was 3.4 times higher using the LOEX-Protocol compared to the UPCIT-Protocol. No significant difference was observed for any parameter once the keratinocytes were cultured from P1 to P4. The CFE and K19 expression decreased from P0 to P1 in both protocols, probably due to the culture process. This study shows that both protocols enable the efficient isolation of skin dermal and epithelial cells and subsequent culture to produce grafts destined for the treatment of patients.

Evaluation of human skin response to solar-simulated radiation in an ex vivo model: Effects and photoprotection of L-Carnosine.

Sunlight, and more specifically the UV component, induces several skin damages, including sunburns, erythema and photoaging. The purpose of this work is to set up an ex vivo human skin model to assess the capacity of active principles in protecting skin from the deleterious effects of solar radiation. Ex vivo human skin biopsies were cultured in an air-liquid interface and exposed to solar-simulated radiation (SSR, 300-750 nm). L-Carnosine (0.2% and 2%) was applied topically to be tested as photoprotective compound. The effect on oxidative stress induction, photoaging and skin transcriptional profile was assessed by evaluating reactive oxygen species, advanced glycosylation end products formation and gene expression changes. In our model, SSR increases ROS production and AGE accumulation and affects the expression of genes related to oxidative stress, pigmentation, immunity, inflammation and photoaging. Among these pathways, 11 genes were selected as biomarkers to evaluate the skin solar radiation response. Results showed that L-Carnosine provides effective prevention against solar radiation damages reducing ROS, AGEs and mitigating the modulation of the selected biomarker genes. In conclusion, we report that our ex vivo skin model is a valuable system to assess the consequences of solar light exposure and the capacity of topically applied L-Carnosine to counteract them.

Copper-based dressing: Efficacy in a wound infection of ex vivo human skin

This study aimed to evaluate the wound healing and antibacterial effects of two experimental copper dressings compared to a commercial silver dressing. Burn wounds were created in the ex vivo human skin biopsies, then were infected by Staphylococcus aureus. Tissues were treated with copper dressings, silver dressing, or a dressing without any antibacterial component. An infected wound tissue without treatment was considered as the control group. Three days after treatments, tissues were analyzed by bacterial count and histology staining, while their media was used to assess the expression of cytokines and chemokines. Histology staining confirmed the presence of second-degree burn wounds and colonization of bacteria in the surface and superficial layer of tissues. The results demonstrated a higher antibacterial effect, improved epithelium formation, and decreased wound area in one of the copper dressings compared to other dressings. Markers associated with infection control increased in both the copper and silver-treated groups. The cytokine profiling analysis revealed increased expression of markers related to angiogenesis and anti-inflammatory responses and decreased pro-inflammatory cytokine responses in the infected wound treated with one of the copper dressings. Our results confirmed the efficacy of the experimental copper dressing in reducing bacteria and promoting wound healing.

Blank Spots in the Map of Human Skin: The Challenge for Xenotransplantation.

Most of the knowledge about human skin homeostasis, development, wound healing, and diseases has been accumulated from human skin biopsy analysis by transferring from animal models and using different culture systems. Human-to-mouse xenografting is one of the fundamental approaches that allows the skin to be studied in vivo and evaluate the ongoing physiological processes in real time. Humanized animals permit the actual techniques for tracing cell fate, clonal analysis, genetic modifications, and drug discovery that could never be employed in humans. This review recapitulates the novel facts about mouse skin self-renewing, regeneration, and pathology, raises issues regarding the gaps in our understanding of the same options in human skin, and postulates the challenges for human skin xenografting.

Treatment of aged wound healing models with FGF2 and ABT-737 reduces the senescent cell population and increases wound closure rate.

Delayed tissue repair in the aged presents a major socio-economic and clinical problem. Age-associated delay in wound healing can be attributed to multiple factors, including an increased presence of senescent cells persisting in the wound. Although the transient presence of senescent cells is physiologic during the resolution phase of normal healing, increased senescent cell accumulation with age can negatively impact tissue repair. The objective of the study was to test interventional strategies that could mitigate the negative effect of senescent cell accumulation and possibly improve the age-associated delay in wound healing. We utilised a 3D in vitro senescent fibroblast populated collagen matrix (FPCM) to study cellular events associated with senescence and delayed healing. Senescent fibroblasts showed an increase in anti-apoptotic B-cell lymphoma 2 (BCL-2) family proteins. We hypothesized that reducing the senescent cell population and promoting non-senescent cell functionality would mitigate the negative effect of senescence and improve healing kinetics. BCL-2 inhibition and mitogen stimulation (FGF2) improved healing in the in vitro senescent models. These results were confirmed with an ex vivo human skin biopsy model. These data suggested that modulation of the senescent cell population with soluble factors improved the healing outcome in our in vitro and ex vivo healing models.

Impact of house dust mite in vitiligo skin: environmental contribution to increased cutaneous immunity and melanocyte detachment.

Vitiligo is an autoimmune skin disorder characterized by loss of melanocytes. Protease-mediated disruption of junctions between keratinocytes and/or keratinocyte intrinsic dysfunction may directly contribute to melanocyte loss. House dust mite (HDM), an environmental allergen with potent protease activity, contributes to respiratory and gut disease but also to atopic dermatitis and rosacea. To verify if HDM can contribute to melanocyte detachment in vitiligo and if so, by which mechanism(s). Using primary human keratinocytes, human skin biopsies from healthy donors and patients with vitiligo, and 3D reconstructed human epidermis, we studied the effect of HDM on cutaneous immunity, tight and adherent junction expression and melanocyte detachment. HDM increased keratinocyte production of vitiligo-associated cytokines and chemokines and increased expression of toll-like receptor (TLR)-4. This was associated with increased in situ matrix-metalloproteinase (MMP)-9 activity, reduced cutaneous expression of adherent protein E-cadherin, increased soluble E-cadherin in culture supernatant and significantly increased number of suprabasal melanocytes in the skin. This effect was dose-dependent and driven by cysteine protease Der p1 and MMP-9. Selective MMP-9 inhibitor, Ab142180, restored E-cadherin expression and inhibited HDM-induced melanocyte detachment. Keratinocytes from patients with vitiligo were more sensitive to HDM-induced changes than healthy keratinocytes. All results were confirmed in a 3D model of healthy skin and in human skin biopsies. Our results highlight that environmental mite may act as an external source of pathogen-associated molecular pattern molecules in vitiligo and topical MMP-9 inhibitors may be useful therapeutic targets. Whether HDM contributes to the onset of flares in vitiligo remains to be tested in carefully controlled trials.

Metabolic Reprogramming and Reliance in Human Skin Wound Healing

Impaired skin wound healing is a significant global health issue, especially among the elderly. Wound healing is a well-orchestrated process involving the sequential phases of inflammation, proliferation, and tissue remodeling. Although wound healing is a highly dynamic and energy-requiring process, the role of metabolism remains largely unexplored. By combining transcriptomics and metabolomics of human skin biopsy samples, we mapped the core bioenergetic and metabolic changes in normal acute as well as chronic wounds in elderly subjects. We found upregulation of glycolysis, the tricarboxylic acid cycle, glutaminolysis, and β-oxidation in the later stages of acute wound healing and in chronic wounds. To ascertain the role of these metabolic pathways on wound healing, we targeted each pathway in a wound healing assay as well as in a human skin explant model using metabolic inhibitors and stimulants. Enhancement or inhibition of glycolysis and, to a lesser extent, glutaminolysis had a far greater impact on wound healing than similar manipulations of oxidative phosphorylation and fatty acid β-oxidation. These findings increase the understanding of wound metabolism and identify glycolysis and glutaminolysis as potential targets for therapeutic intervention.

Efficiency of emulsifier-free emulsions in delivering caffeine and α-tocopherol to human skin.

Increasing consumer demand for natural and environmentally friendly products is driving the cosmetic industry to seek greener and safer processes. High-frequency ultrasound technology (HFUT) stabilizes emulsions without adding emulsifying surfactants (ES). In this work, the formulation characteristics of an HFUT-treated emulsion and a Reference emulsion were compared for both caffeine and α-tocopherol. A comparison was made between ES-free emulsions and the Reference emulsions based on droplet size, viscosity, pH and rheology behaviour for both active cosmetic ingredients. The permeation of caffeine and the skin retention of α -tocopherol were studied in vitro using Franz diffusion cells on human skin biopsies, considered the gold standard for permeation assays. The formulations developed were stable and showed suitable droplet size distribution. In the case of ES-free emulsions, the average droplet size was inferior to 1.5μm regardless of the polarity of the active. All formulations presented a shear-thinning pseudoplastic behaviour, an attribute usually desired for cosmetic products. The skin permeation studies showed that in the case of caffeine (model hydrophilic molecule), the ES-free emulsion presented a delivery capacity similar to that of the Reference emulsion. However, for α-tocopherol (highly lipophilic model molecule), differences were observed in the distribution of the active in the stratum corneum with an advantage for the Reference emulsion, probably due to the impact of surfactants on the SC lipids. This work demonstrates that HFUT is a reliable tool that is able to prepare stable ES-free emulsions loaded with hydrophilic or lipophilic active ingredients. Skin permeation studies confirm that the emulsions produced by HFUT promote the delivery of the actives to the human skin. In the case of α-tocopherol, the delivery efficiency was lower than with the Reference emulsion, especially in the SC layers, due to the absence of surfactants. Nevertheless, the ES-free emulsion still represents a good compromise between efficacy and the need for green cosmetics in the market.

The impact of airborne ultrafine particulate matter on human keratinocyte stem cells.

Air pollution is today fully acknowledged to be a significant public health problem. Rapid urbanization exposed us to a variety of unhealthy ambient air pollutants at high concentrations. The emergence of airborne ultrafine particles has added an additional dimension to this already complex problem of air pollution. The skin has different functions, one of them being the protection against the deleterious effect of external agents. The aim of this study is to evaluate the impact of airborne ultrafine particles (UFP) pollution on skin aging and on keratinocyte differentiation. Ex vivo human skin biopsies and cultured keratinocytes stem cells (KSC) were submitted to diesel exhaust-derived UFP. Reactive oxygen species (ROS) production was assessed with the MitoSOX™ probe. Keratinocyte stemness potential was evaluated by the immunodetection of keratin 15 (K15) and p63 (∆N isoforms). Effect of UFP on the epithelial niche maintenance was evaluated by immunodetection of Sox9. Reconstructed epidermis model was used to assess the impact of UFP on keratinocyte differentiation and aging. UFP exposure induced ROS production and disturbed K15, ∆Np63 and Sox9 expression in KSC or ex vivo skin. Finally, investigations on reconstructed epidermis revealed a phenotype marked by impaired keratinocyte differentiation. These results indicate that UFP pollution is a potent extrinsic factor of skin aging, affecting the keratinocyte stem cell potential and the skin renewal process.