Costume History Research Articles

Marketing a Pure Play E-Tailer: Historical Emporium Inc

The material in this case provides customer data that were available to the case protagonists to make data-driven decisions. From their garage to a 16,000-square-foot warehouse and office in San Jose, California, Chris and Alicia Allen built a business, Historical Emporium Inc. (HEI) that generated nearly $8 million in sales in 2015. They both had previously worked in the technology field. In true techie fashion, the pair continually thought about ways they could use digital tools to increase sales and enhance customer experience. One of the main drivers of HEI's rapid growth had been the steampunk trend that started back in 2006. Initially there were few competitors in the space but as the size of the market grew, so did the competition. Noticing the dip in their sales, the Allen's wanted to pursue avenues to backfill the loss of that business. They returned to the analytics—what should they concentrate on to draw new customers and keep existing customers engaged? Excerpt UVA-M-0901 Rev. Sept. 19, 2016 Marketing a Pure Play E-Tailer: Historical Emporium Inc. Chris Allen, CFO of Historical Emporium Inc. (HEI), had always wanted to become an entrepreneur, though he had never envisioned himself in the historical clothing retail business. He was a financial professional who had worked for Hewlett-Packard and several start-ups and consultancies in Silicon Valley. His father, Terry, had become a Civil War reenactor and operated a small traveling store that offered Civil War–style clothing for men throughout the U.S. Midwest. Chris's wife, Alicia, a techie with a business degree, worked as a product development consultant and helped develop business websites. By the time Chris and Alicia had two children, they were ready to pursue a business that would offer more flexibility than the average start-up in Silicon Valley. So in 2003, Alicia and Chris decided to take a crack at selling historical costumes and took over the business but added a twist—instead of a traveling store, they would become an online retailer. From their garage to a 16,000-square-foot warehouse and office in San Jose, California, the Allens built a business that generated nearly $ 8million in sales in 2015. And in true techie fashion, the pair continually thought about other ways they could use digital tools to increase sales and enhance customer experience. The number of available online marketing campaigns was vast, but each one cost money and the Allens were looking for the best bang for their click. . . .

In a Muddy Land, Wearing a Historical Costume: Posttraumatic Humanism in Post-Stalinist Soviet Culture

This paper discusses the reinvention of the humanist ideas and values in the Soviet post-World War II and post-Stalinist culture (the 1950s and the1960s) with the help of plots and images in Soviet semi-official art, the main examples being Pavel Antokolsky's poem Hieronymus Bosch (1957), the Strugatsky brothers' novel Hard to Be a God (1963), and Grigory Kozintsev's films based on Shakespeare's Hamlet (1964) and King Lear (1970), as well as David Samoilov's poem Bertold Schwarz: A Monologue , set in the late Middle Ages. The paper isolates an aesthetic movement that developed in the Soviet culture of those decades; I propose to call this movement humanism. It was based on the new aesthetic idiom of gloomy Renaissance, including images of conflagration, ruins, violence. The works of this movement did not use the Aesopian language — or, at least, did not use it as a primary or only tool. Rather, it involves a covert comparison of the Soviet present with the European pre-Enlightenment past and aesthetical valorization and sublimation of 20th-century catastrophic experience. Images of gloomy Renaissance conveyed the erosion the Soviet belief in progress and moral modernization as inevitable consequences of Bolsheviks' revolution. One of the earliest mature works of posttraumatic humanism in Soviet culture was Vasily Grossman's essay The Sistine Madonna (1955). Alexei German Sr.'s film Hard to Be a God (2013) can be regarded as the concluding and summarizing work in this movement.

A Survey on the Research Trends of the Knitwear Fashion Field in Korea

The purpose of this study is to investigate research trends in the knitwear fashion field and suggest future directions for fashion businesses and research. Research trends in the knitwear fashion field were investigated. A total of 134 articles on knitwear fashion field among 4027 published in five journals - Journal of the Korean Society of Knit Design, Journal of the Korean Society of Costume Culture, Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, Journal of the Korean Society of Fashion & Costume, and Journal of the Korean Society of Costume - from 2001 to 2010 were analyzed. Most (32.84%) of articles related to knitwear fashion were published in Journal of the Korean Society of Knit Design. The knitwear fashion field was divided into fashion design, clothing construction, textile science, fashion marketing, and history of costume. The majority (43.28%) were on the research topic of fashion design, followed by textile science, clothing construction, fashion marketing, history of costume. From 2001 to 2010, the number of papers relating to knitwear fashion increased from year to year. The further development of the knitwear fashion field can be expected in the future.

Editorial essay: Thoughts on a stalled grant bid

As a small academic library, technology has always been a challenge. Recent IT department personnel changes have yielded robust technologies on campus at long last. This meant that it was finally worth pursuing grant opportunities to create digital collections from our Archives holdings. Our 10,000 piece Historical Costume Collection and Fashion program history seemed a good place to start. But the path to applying for a large-scale grant at our institution was not as straightforward as it we had hoped.

Researching fashion studies: A brief historiography

Fashion is often held synonymous with frivolity, excess, and luxury; as such, the study of costume history and theory has historically been considered impractical or subsidiary. The significant rise in costume education and scholarship during the 20th century has brought new and more frequent queries regarding the histories of fashion, etiquette, and material culture to our libraries. We are now often asked to assist in researches of cultures of style, and how they may be analyzed in a multidisciplinary context. Is it possible to analyze fashion trends through the lens of the law? Are effects of American colonialism present in fashion trends today? This brief historiography of costume and fashion studies seeks to utilize a multi- and interdisciplinary lens that reference librarians may employ to assist patrons with style-related inquiries.

Searching for Disappeared Ming Dynasty Costume in South Korea Reflection on the Creative Application of Intangible Cultural Heritage

<p class="a"><span lang="EN-US">Based on the research on the diplomatic history of costume between China and South Korea in Ming Dynasty, this paper firstly summarizes the protective policies offered by central and local governments of Korea for projects of<a name="OLE_LINK6"></a><a name="OLE_LINK5"></a> intangible cultural heritage in category of traditional dyeing and weaving. Then taking Hansan ramie as example, this thesis sums up different methods of activation and innovative design again for intangible culture of traditional dyeing and weaving in Korea. Finally, thesis concludes the tangible value of intangible heritage in Korea and example value for China, give a suggestion to hope that this feasible method can be used in China.</span></p>

Внеурочное занятие по технологии на тему «Изготовление народной куклы-закрутки в костюме Белгородского края» (4-й класс)

The article describes the content and course of extracurricular classes on technology for fourth-grade schoolchildren of the lessons series, during which the representation of schoolchildren of folk rag dolls is extended. Conducting such classes allows to expand representation of the children about the history and characteristics of the female costume (in particular, the Belgorod region), to introduce to the methods of manufacture of dolls in folk costume, to generate interest in the history and culture of their small homeland, respect for the work of its people, its crafts and various kinds of creativity.

2000년 이후 TV사극의상 디자인 연구

2000년 이후 TV사극의상 디자인 연구

재한 중국인 유학생의 패션 분야 연구 동향 - 대학원 학위논문을 중심으로 -

Since the mid 2000s, a large number of Chinese students have come to Korea to study. This study investigates the research trends of Chinese students studying in the fashion field in Korea. For this study, a total of 235 graduate degree theses on fashion written by Chinese students in Korea (from 1992 to 2014) were collected through the RISS website. Various keywords were used to find the theses, including fashion, clothing and costume. Factors used in the analysis of these theses were the number of theses per year, major of the student, research trend of specific areas and research target area. The results are as follows: Most of the theses were written by Fashion/Clothing majors (141 theses/60% of the total), while other majors - such as Business Administration, International Trade, Economics, Journalism/Broadcasting, and Movie Entertainment - made up the rest (94/40%). The theses researched in the study were focused on a specific field in fashion. Fashion Marketing/Socio-Psychology of Clothing was the most popular field (113/48.1%), and Fashion Design/Aesthetics came in second (87/37.0%). Other topics, such as Costume History, Clothing Construction/Textile Science, Costume Culture, followed. Chinese student's research target area was very limited, with Chinese Study being the most popular area, and Korean and Chinese Comparative Study coming in second.

The Installation of Clothes on “Invisible Mannequins“

The paper deals with the possibility of displaying costumes or textiles as “invisible mannequins”, which had been successfully used on exhibition Retro. This method of installation enables practically unlimited use and it is applicable both for historical costumes and also for contemporary fashion apparel. The main objective of the text is to present the overall production process of form.

Kings, Celebrities and Working Mums: Kjartan Poskitt’s Plays for Young Actors as History and Entertainment

After postmodern approaches called into question the foundations of academic history in the 1970s and 1980s, recent studies have identified a new boom in popular history formats such as historical novels, costume drama and TV documentaries. This trend has also spurred new theoretical approaches towards (popular) history, which are both a continuation and a reaction to postmodern theories. On the basis of these, this paper analyses two plays by the British writer and comedian Kjartan Poskitt – Henry the Tudor Dude: A Musical Play (1995) and Nell’s Belles: The Swinging Sixteen-Sixties Show: A Musical (2002)—both aimed at young amateur actors. These two plays present panoramic views of the lives of the English kings Henry VIII and Charles II, respectively, and show their objects in a highly entertaining and irreverent light, concentrating on their flamboyant private lives and personal failures. The paper demonstrates how these plays approach the dual aims of teaching and entertaining that are so typical of both children’s literature and popular history in general. Moreover, it argues that though the plays represent a new development in the previously neglected field of historical drama for the young, they can also serve to demonstrate recent theoretical approaches towards (popular) history.

A página omissa: contribuições para uma história do ensino de línguas no Brasil

A aprendizagem e o ensino de línguas formam uma área prática profissional e uma área teórica. Essa área se conhece por Aquisição e Ensino de Línguas (AELin) ou, simplesmente, Ensino de Línguas, e inclui o processo formador de agentes que concorrem a esses processos. Esses processos existiram desde sempre na história educacional do país, mas tardamos em reconhecer e ter reconhecida essa narrativa do seu vir-a-ser como especialidade tributária. A bibliografia é escassa e há muito pouca oferta dessa especialidade como disciplina nos currículos ditos de Letras na grande área da Linguagem. Neste artigo, retomo a escrita sobre a trajetória de personagens, fatos e enredo da história do ensino de línguas no Brasil não para sinalizar períodos e pontos de emergência de consciência de área, mas, para discutir, principalmente, a falta de estudos de natureza histórica para o ensino de línguas (estrangeiras e o Português na perspectiva de LE) e para a constituição de uma disciplina científica madura e pujante de história nos currículos de graduação em Letras e de pós nos estudos de ensino e aprendizagem de línguas no país.

Abuse of Empire style robe to thermal insulation and body discomfort

Purpose – Empire style fashion, Greek-Roman style robe with bare shoulder and chest and short sleeved with long gloves which created a slim silhouette, was worn even in winter season in Europe, where average temperature is 0-5°C. Most women suffered with catching cold and thousands caught flu and tuberculosis of the lungs, called muslin disease. The purpose of this paper is to find out clothing insulation of the robe by measuring the thermal resistance and to guess how cold they felt in this robe in winter time. Design/methodology/approach – The authors performed the investigation on original robe shape with based on historical evidence and data, such as drawings, sketches, pattern books and sewing books, and reproduced a representative robe costume and tested its thermal insulation. The fabrics of robe were thin wool, silk and cotton following the literature evidence and preserved costume. Thermal insulation of the robes was measured using thermal manikin with the test method ISO 15831. The authors analyzed the thermal insulation of reconstructed robes with an inner cotton breech as for daily use and tested them wrapped with cashmere shawl on manikin shoulder as for severe cold weather. Findings – The dress robes had the range of 0.61-0.67 clo regardless of the type of fabric materials, and 0.80-0.81 clo with the cashmere shawl. These values were not enough for women to keep body temperature or comfort in winter time. Originality/value – This study combined fashion historic theory for costume reproduction with clothing science and technology for thermal insulation. Combination of costume history, construction technology and measurement engineering is the ingenious idea, and the combination of historical and scientific research evidences interdisciplinary originality.

Sharing Historic Costume Collections Online

The recent increase in online costume history resources has provided scholars of dress with fresh sources of information for inspiring and validating their research. The best digital archives consider the needs of their users in creating systems that make it easy for more users to access the greatest amount of relevant information. Users of online costume history resources have specific needs that should be addressed, both for internal users (organizing and entering information) and external users (finding information). This paper follows a panel presentation at the 2014 Symposium of the Costume Society of America, on the subject of digital initiatives for sharing collections of historic costume under-way at individual American colleges and universities. In the presentation and resulting discussions with CSA members, common concerns became evident, both for information seekers and managers of historic costume data. These concerns and potential solutions are addressed in the following paper.

The Creation of Ethnicity: National Costume as Reconstruction or Construct?

Since its development at the end of 19th century, Latvian national costume has become a symbol of national identity. The task of this article is to trace how the publications of ethnographers during the 20th century shaped the view of Latvian national costume. The appearance of national costume was influenced by the growing knowledge of the national cultural heritage. Although national costume resembling ethnographic examples was recognized as highly authentic, in reality it was a reconstruction created by museum staff and other ethnographic researchers. The public demand for practical publications which could be of use in making national costume hindered more profound research into the history of national costume. Key words: national costume, ethnography, renewed tradition, national symbols.

1960년대 이후 가톨릭 전례복의 실증적 고찰 - 대전성모여자고등학교 소장품을 중심으로 -

This study summarizes the dissemination aspects of liturgical vestments in Korea, and organizes the value and meanings of these disseminations as it appeared in the history of costumes by carrying out an empirical analysis on the relics of liturgical vestments since the modern times. It also examines its design characteristics as well. Liturgical vestments have symbolic meaning for the purpose and solar term of ceremonial occasions and it also functions as a way to differentiate the position and duty of the clergy. Liturgical vestments developed on the basis of ancient Greek-Roman costumes and transformed each situation and social trend of the age. Korean liturgical vestments started with their traditional costumes, in 1887, it were changed into French(western) style with freedom of religious. After the secondary Vatican Council held in 1962, various regulations were changed to spread the Catholic doctrines and ideology. This study conducted an empirical analysis and design consideration on the 28 relics of modern liturgical vestments on the basis of the foregoing standard and concept. As a result of analysis, relics were investigated as research materials worn by Bishops after 1960s. And design elements are that the relics used materials and ornament of Hanbok with flower patterns and decoration such as letter patterns including 壽(life) 福(luck) 喜(pleasure) as well as Chrysanthemum and Mancaowen design. These transition reflected by amend regulation of Vatican Council II. Accordingly, this data has been confirmed to be important for the history of costumes as it informs what process of changes liturgical vestments spread in Korea went through before they are worn as current appearance.

Evaluation of Stitched Support Methods for the Remedial Conservation of Historical Silk Costumes

Evaluation of Stitched Support Methods for the Remedial Conservation of Historical Silk Costumes

Circuitous Action: Revenge Cinema

Quentin Tarantino's Kill Bill 1 and 2 (2003 and 2004) stands out as extreme exercise in genre pastiche, even considered within filmography of a director commonly described as pop auteur par excellence. The future of once named by Noel Carroll as a signpost of postclassical American cinema-with its penchant for homage, citation, and cannibalizations of past-comes to a head in Tarantino's manic referentiality, his self-conscious forging of a directorial style from intertextual network that extends downwards into trash bin of film history, as well as outwards beyond territorial borders of Hollywood.1 A grand collage of director's particular movie obsessions, Kill Bill exposes those cult affinities that inform Umberto Eco's definition of postmodern movie, quotation of topos is recognized as only way to cope with burden of our encyclopedical filmic competence.2 What makes this work hyperbolic even by standards of audience well habituated to production of meaning by allusion is idiosyncratic contour of its topos, running to Chinese martial arts films, historical swordplay and gangster films from Japan, Italian and American westerns, and horror. Kill Bill's cult affinities are of a global order. We are confronted here with not only burden of a collective cultural memory, but a challenge of translation, of navigating across multiple lexica and regional traditions, of treading uneven textual surface that spans disparate geographies.The film's sprawling field of reference is held together by a simple story line: a woman, introduced simply as the Bride, awakens from a coma after a vicious assault on her life on her wedding day and, one by one, hunts down and kills her five attackers. A shocking act of violence sets plot in motion and initiates a series of violent counteractions. The stacked odds of initial confrontation, where we see lone victim outnumbered by her assailants, become seed of amplification and escalation of narrative actions. Underlying spectacular death scenes that many critics denounce in film is hyper literal algorithm of vengeance wherein injury requites injury in kind. In revenge stories like Kill Bill, not only does violence beget more violence, as saying goes, but does so according to a strictly predetermined logic as a reaction to and reinscription of initial cause, every turn of events a return to a founding event of violence. The vendetta in its formal contours thus entails, in words of John Kerrigan, an eye-for-eye attentiveness to lucid causal relations.3 To view narrative operations of revenge in such terms-as what Kerrigan calls impulse towards structure-is not to deny excess bred of its compulsion towards reprisal. Kill Bill aptly demonstrates tension between linear drive to rectify order and cyclical endlessness both imbedded in concept of vengeance, its protagonist's single-minded purposefulness finding expression in a mind-blowing frenzy of killing.4If revenge is red thread linking film's disjointed episodes and stylistic vagaries, it also weaves throughout generic tapestry into which film inserts itself. Tales of vengeance are backbone of western, and several of that genre's most memorable treatments of theme- The Searchers (dir. John Ford, 1956), Death Rides a Horse (dir. Giulio Petroni, 1967), Once Upon a Time in West (dir. Sergio Leone, 1968)- leave visible and audible traces in Kill Bill. Revenge also features prominently in Japanese historical costume drama, or jidaigeki, particularly in samurai swordplay pictures from which film borrows both its main object signifier, sword, and mode of that object's animation, swordfight spectacle. A standard story template of thejidaigefy, in which a swordsman or swordswoman must set their skills to test of avenging wrongful death of a master or family member, appears with equal frequency in Chinese martial arts swordplay genre, or wuxia pian. …

Kit: Fashioning the Sporting Body – Introduction to the Special Edition

This is an introductory essay for the special edition of Sport in History entitled ‘Kit: Fashioning the Sporting Body’. As well as giving an overview of the six articles in the collection, the introduction seeks to give an overview of sport and dress history. It then raises questions of the intersection of national style, costume history and sporting fashion as active and leisurewear.

Elizabethan Theater Reconstructions Reconsidered: Some Theoretical Aspects of Time-Space-Audience Relationships

This essay concentrates on a relatively neglected aspect of theater reconstructions, namely, the various ways the “reconstructed space” impacts today's spectator, an impact that is substantially different from the impact the original building had on the Elizabethan audience. When a historical building, such as the Globe or the Fortune, is reconstructed, it seems as if two temporal and spatial structures are blended and staged. The theater becomes a sign of the past brought into the present of the local inhabitants or visitors; thus it is not only a piece of architecture but a sign of something it is not—the original building. We may therefore talk of theatricality, of created fictionality, and of the theater building being staged as if in a performance. It becomes an inseparable material component of every production presented on its stage. This is why, among other reasons, reconstructed buildings create a theatrical atmosphere. It may be said that a layer of fictionality is inscribed in the material substance of the building, creating meanings that were not part of the original, because the original was not a historical monument or a reconstruction. It also functioned within its original context, which was not historical at all (the example of staging the Chaste Maid in Cheapside is used here). The semiosis of the theater results in the specific performative function of architecture, which is staged in a historical costume for modern audiences.