Grooming Practices Research Articles

Follicular and scarring disorders in skin of color: presentation and management.

Skin of color, also known as ethnic skin, is described as skin of individuals of African, Asian, Hispanic, Native-American, Middle Eastern, and Pacific Island backgrounds. Differences in hair morphology, hair grooming, cultural practices, and susceptibility to keloid scarring exist within these populations and have been implicated in hair, scalp, and skin disorders. Acne keloidalis (AK), central centrifugal cicatricial alopecia (CCCA), dissecting cellulitis of the scalp (DCS), pseudofolliculitis barbae (PFB), traction alopecia (TA), and keloids are the most prevalent follicular and scarring disorders in skin of color. They have been associated with disfigurement, permanent hair loss, emotional distress, and decreased quality of life. Hair grooming practices, such as the use of chemical relaxers, heat straightening, and tight braiding and weaving can cause scalp irritation and follicular damage and are linked to the pathogenesis of some of these conditions. Consequently, patient education and behavior modifications are integral to the prevention and management of these disorders. Scarring disorders are also of concern in ethnic populations. Keloid scarring is more prevalent in individuals of African, Asian, and Hispanic descent. The scarring alopecia CCCA is almost exclusively seen in patients of African descent. Therapeutic regimens such as intralesional corticosteroids, surgical excision, and laser therapy can be effective for these follicular and scarring disorders, but carry a risk of dyspigmentation and keloid scarring. Ethnic skin and hair may present unique challenges to the clinician, and knowledge of these differences is essential to providing quality care.

Recurrent hair loss resulting from generalized proximal trichorrhexis nodosa in a Nigerian female

Hair and scalp disorders commonly seen in the African female have been associated with hair care practices. Distal trichorrhexis nodosa (TN) has been commonly reported with various forms of trauma to the hair from hair grooming practices. We report the case of recurrent generalized hair loss resulting from proximal TN in a 28-year-old Nigerian female with atopy. The use of chemical relaxers precipitated each episode of hair loss. Generalized proximal TN has been reported in those of afro Caribbean descent. The acute nature and extent of the hair loss suggest there may be some underlying structural defect in such individuals.

Prevalence and correlates of pubic hair grooming among low-income Hispanic, Black, and White women

The purpose of this paper was to describe pubic hair grooming behaviors (shaving, waxing, trimming or dyeing) and the extent to which grooming was related to demographic characteristics and sexual history among low-income Hispanic, Black, and White women. Data were collected from 1677 women aged 16–40 years between July 2010 and August 2011 as part of a larger study. Participants completed a cross-sectional written survey. Multivariable analyses were used to identify correlates of pubic hair grooming. Being a current groomer was associated with being White, a younger age, under or normal weight, having a yearly household income >$30,000, and having 5 or more lifetime sexual partners. Overall, we discovered pubic hair grooming was extremely common among women of varying demographics. It is important for health and research professionals to understand pubic hair grooming practices so they can address behavioral and clinical concerns.

Curly hair: measured differences and contributions to breakage

IntroductionA consumer internet survey conducted by our Institute in2005, of over 1200 women that self-identified as AfricanAmerican, Caucasian, Chinese, or Mexican, determinedthat African-American women experience hair breakageat a statistically higher rate as compared with their Chi-nese, Mexican, and Caucasian counterparts. In fact, 96%said they experienced hair breakage while 23% agreed itwas their biggest hair problem. To better understand thisreported phenomenon of increased fragility, one mustconsider that mechanical fragility of hair may be relatedto innate differences in the structure, the result of variousdiseases, or related to grooming habits and practices. Inthis paper, we review some of the previously reportedstructural differences observed in curly hair, laboratorymeasurements used to evaluate fragility, and the potentialimpact of grooming practices.Historically, human hair was classified along raciallines of Caucasian, Mongolian (Asian), and Negroid(African or of African descent). Early studies investigatedhair diameter, geometric shape, strength, and chemicalreactivity.

Central centrifugal cicatricial alopecia: possible familial aetiology in two African families from South Africa

Central centrifugal cicatricial alopecia: possible familial aetiology in two African families from South Africa

Male skin care: Shaving and moisturization needs

Historically, most cosmetic and medical cosmetic research has been focused on the female consumer. Advancements in the development of grooming instruments as well as changing consumer habits and attitudes toward male cosmetic skin care needs support the need to develop a deeper understanding of male skin biology and how that can be used to improve the quality of life relative to societal interactions. Male skin biology has been found to have unique properties that are distinct from females and have a significant impact on the way males groom and maintain their overall appearance. Research to date has found that male skin has a different response profile to such environmental insults as UV, heat, and stress that is based not on just differences in cosmetic or dermatological product usage but also on underlying biological differences. These differences are discussed with the implications to a broader understanding of male facial skin care needs that spans from daily grooming practices to overall health status that impacts higher incidence rate of skin cancer among males. This highlights that male skin care has a holistic need to ensure proper grooming and sunscreen moisturizer usage.

Pigs Hearts and Human Bodies: A Cultural Approach to Xenotransplantation

Animals have a significant presence in human lives, with many human interactions involving animals. This role of animals in social life, however, has largely been ignored and marginalised. In the words of Tovey (197), "to read most sociological texts, one might never know that society is populated by non-human as well as human animals". Human-animal relations are evident in everyday human uses of animals as companions, pets, meat sources, and entertainment. This list is by no means exhaustive, but it does demonstrate how humans create and perpetuate systems of human/animal difference which are, at times, contradictory and ambivalent. There are no consistencies in how humans view and understand animal bodies. These differences matter, as they have serious consequences for how humans view and treat animals. It also has dire consequences for animals. While humans and animals are different species, we still live together, co-evolve, and create shared histories. We are, in the words of Haraway, companion species. This exposes that animals are not just nature, but culture.

Fecal indicator organism density in beach sands: Impact of sediment grain size, uniformity, and hydrologic factors on surface water loading

Fecal loading to beach sands and subsequent transport to surface water may result in the degradation of surface water quality. To better understand the relationship between Escherichia coli in sands, beach hydrology, and recreational water quality, we collected surface water, groundwater, and sand samples from three Lake Michigan beaches with varying substrates (fine sand to pebbles, July 2005–June 2006). Sediment cores collected within transects perpendicular to and at fixed distances from the shoreline (0m, 10m, 20m) and surface water samples collected at a depth of 1m were analyzed for E. coli. Grain size analysis was performed on duplicate core samples to assess the relationship between E. coli density and mean grain size and uniformity. Groundwater samples, collected from shallow drive-point piezometers within the test area, were also analyzed for E. coli. E. coli density in beach sands differed significantly with distance from shore with the highest density occurring at the berm crest (0m). Mean grain size and uniformity accounted for variation in E. coli density with fine sand of uniform distribution having the highest content. E. coli density in surface water was correlated to E. coli density in beach sand samples at the berm crest. E. coli in groundwater was <10 to 579MPN/100ml (2005); none was detected in 2006. Management interventions, including altered beach grooming practices and slope assessments, may be effective in reducing E. coli content at beaches comprised of fine sands of uniform grain size, hence reducing water quality advisories.

Hair grooming practices and central centrifugal cicatricial alopecia

The cause of central centrifugal cicatricial alopecia (CCCA) in African American women remains to be elucidated. This study was designed to determine the hair-grooming practices in African American women with and without CCCA and to evaluate possible etiologic factors. Utilizing a novel survey instrument, the Hair Grooming Assessment Survey, we performed a retrospective comparative survey of the hair-grooming practices of two populations of African American women seen and evaluated at the Department of Dermatology, Henry Ford Hospital in Detroit, MI, between 2000 and 2007. The case group were women with clinical and histologic diagnosis of CCCA, and the control group were those without a history of alopecia. All 101 surveys that were returned were analyzed (51 from the case group and 50 from the control group). A strong association was found between the use of both sewn-in hair weaving and cornrow or braided hairstyles with artificial hair extensions and CCCA (P < .04, P < .03, respectively). Similarly, women with CCCA were more likely to report a history of "damage", typically defined as uncomfortable pulling and tenderness, from both sewn-in and glued-in weaves, and from cornrow or braided hairstyles with artificial hair extensions (P < .001, P < .02, and P < .03, respectively). In contrast to previous anecdotal beliefs, no correlation was found between the use of either hot combing or hair relaxers and the development of CCCA. Results are limited by patient recall of past hair grooming practices. Also, as hair grooming practices may vary by geographic region, these results may not be generalized to all women of African descent. There is a clear difference in both quantitative and qualitative hair grooming practices among African American women with CCCA.

“I'm Here Girlfriend What's New?” Art, Dress, and the Queer Performative Subject: The Case of David McDiarmid

In a self-consciously political enactment of a mobile identity as “gay man,” queer artist David McDiarmid (1952–95) employed a changing series of dress, grooming, deportment, and adornment practices. Intimately connected to a “life-as-art” creative practice, this performative unfolding of a “becoming” gay male identity resonates with McDiarmid's artistic oeuvre achieved in Sydney and New York between 1972 and 1995.

Penetration of cationic conditioning compounds into hair fibers: A TOF-SIMS approach

Cationic conditioning compounds protect against hair damage caused by cosmetic chemical treatments and grooming practices. They also enhance the retention of moisture. However, the question as to whether they do this superficially by residing on the hair surface or by penetrating into the fiber remains unanswered. In this work, an attempt has been made to show the penetration of a low-molecular-weight cationic conditioning compound into the hair cortex using the time-of-flight secondary ion mass spectrometry (TOF SIMS) method, applied in earlier research to show the penetration of oils into hair. An example of the practical benefit of such penetration into the cortex in greatly improving the fatigue resistance of hair has been discussed.

Analysis of hair lipids and tensile properties as a function of distance from scalp

Cuticle cells form the outer covering surrounding and protecting the cortex. The cuticle cells are thin, flat and overlap, and intercellular lipid lamellae are found in the gaps between the cell boundaries. The lipid lamellae are also found within the cortex in the cell boundaries between the long fribrous corticle cells. In addition, the outer surfaces of the cuticle cells are covered by a monolayer of covalently bound fatty acids, a major component of which is 18-methyleicosanoic acid. The fatty acids are thought to be attached through thio-ester linkages. Together these lipids are thought to be major determinants of the physical properties of the hair. The present study tested the hypothesis that both free and covalently bound lipids are progressively lost during normal environmental exposures. This progressive loss within the cuticle layers may, in part, lead to an increased susceptibility of the protein and lipid lamellae in the cortex to degradation. This degradation, in turn, would contribute to a progressive decrease in the tensile properties of the hair. Research grade hair was cut into five segments from the root to the distal end. Lipids from each segment were extracted and analyzed by thin-layer chromatography in conjunction with photodensitometry. The major free polar lipid classes in the hair included ceramides, glucosylceramides and cholesterol sulfate. The concentrations of all of the free polar lipids as well as the covalently bound fatty acids decreased in going from the root to the distal end of the hair. In addition, there was a significant reduction in tensile properties of the hair from the root to distal end. In conclusion, the progressive loss of endogenous free and covalently bound lipids from hair, which are probably related to normal weathering of the hair and grooming practices, may help contribute to a marked decrease in tensile properties to the hair.

Medical and surgical therapies for alopecias in black women.

Hair loss is a common problem that challenges the patient and clinician with a host of cosmetic, psychological and medical issues. Alopecia occurs in both men and women, and in all racial and ethnic populations, but the etiology varies considerably from group to group. In black women, many forms of alopecia are associated with hair-care practices (e.g., traction alopecia, trichorrhexis nodosa, and central centrifugal cicatricial alopecia). The use of thermal or chemical hair straightening, and hair braiding or weaving are examples of styling techniques that place African American women at high risk for various "traumatic" alopecias. Although the exact cause of these alopecias is unknown, a multifactorial etiology including both genetic and environmental factors is suspected. A careful history and physical examination, together with an acute sensitivity to the patient's perceptions (e.g., self-esteem and social problems), are critical in determining the best therapy course. Therapeutic options for these patients range from alteration of current hair grooming practices or products, to use of specific medical treatments, to hair replacement surgery. Since early intervention is often a key to preventing irreversible alopecia, the purpose of the present article is to educate the dermatologist on all aspects of therapy for hair loss in black women--including not only a discussion of the main medical and surgical therapies but also an overview of ethnic hair cosmetics, specific suggestions for alterations of hair-care practices, and recommendations for patient education and compliance.

Grooming Cybervictims

The social and cultural communities of the Internet provide a virtual venue with unique perspectives on power, identity, and gender. This paper presents an overview of the benefits and risks of Web-based interactions for youth. As an illustrative example, the psychosocial effects of online grooming practices which are designed to lure and exploit children are discussed. Constructive solutions and a plan of action which foster protective and productive learning experiences are explored.

Influence of culture and pigment on skin conditions in children.

1. James G. Dinulos, MD* 2. Elinor A. Graham, MD, MPH† 1. 2. *Department of Medicine, Division of Dermatology. 3. 4. †Departments of Pediatrics, University of Washington, Seattle, WA. 1. Superficial inflammatory skin conditions commonly appear different in dark skin because of exaggeration of normal cutaneous reaction patterns. 2. Dyspigmentation from skin inflammation or injury may result in permanent color changes. Prompt diagnosis and appropriate management can modify adverse cosmetic outcomes from pigment changes. 3. Several skin conditions are more common in children who have dark skin, and common disorders such as atopic dermatitis and pityriasis rosea may have different presentations. 4. All patients who have dark skin should be counseled about the potential pigmentary changes that can occur with all classes of topical steroids. However, conditions that produce intense inflammation should be treated with appropriate-strength steroid to attempt to minimize long-lasting pigmentary changes. Many common skin disorders manifest themselves differently in children who have dark skin. This altered appearance is thought to occur in part because of exaggerated cutaneous reaction patterns to internal and external influences. Normal variations in pigment may be confused with bruises or disease. People from various cultures alter their skin as part of healing and grooming practices. Knowledge of the appearance of common skin disorders in dark skin, normal variations, and unique cultural skin manipulations is vital to the diagnosis and management of skin conditions in this group of patients. Excellent recent reviews have been published in the dermatology literature on this subject (see Suggested Reading). This review outlines distinctive reaction patterns, the common skin conditions affected by them, and suggestions for effective management. We also discuss common cultural practices and non-Western healing techniques that result in unique skin findings. Pigment lability, follicular response, and mesenchymal response are three primary cutaneous reactions responsible for the altered appearance of common skin disorders in children who have dark skin. They represent normal cutaneous responses that are seen in all skin types, although they are exaggerated in many children who have …

Skin disorders in black children.

Recently, progress and developments have been made in six skin conditions relevant to black children. Infantile acropustulosis may either be idiopathic or may be a sequela of scabies in young infants. The approach to small- or medium-sized congenital melanocytic nevi in black children must be different because the risk for malignant transformation into melanoma is exceedingly small. Keloids and hypertrophic scars in children are effectively treated with silicone gel sheeting. Tinea capitis caused by Trichophyton tonsurans remains to be a very common infection among black children. The newer systemic antifungal agents have no significant advantage over griseofulvin. Hair problems resulting from grooming practices or hair styling are preventable. For postinflammatory hyperpigmentation, azelaic acid holds promise.

Cosmetics in Blacks

Blacks comprise a phenotypically heterogeneous group with respect to skin and hair. They are uniquely multihued with at least 35 different possible shades of pigmentation, and there is considerable variability in hair texture. This accounts for many of the unique skin and hair cosmetic requirements and customs in the black race. These grooming practices may present perplexing problems for the dermatologist when viewed in the context of resultant skin disease; therefore, an awareness and understanding of skin and hair products used by blacks, grooming techniques, and their consequences are essential for clinicians caring for black patients.

Themes in Cosmetics and Grooming

Cosmetic and grooming practices are universal among human societies. These practices may be analyzed according to casualness and control, exposure and concealment, and plasticity and fixity. The modern brassiere illustrates the dialectic of exposure and concealment as well as the plastic manipulation of the body. Permanent waving illustrates the dialectic of casualness and control (manageability): the young girl exemplifies casualness in grooming; the older woman, control. Grooming is employed not merely in the service of sexuality but primarily to denote the status and role of the person in relationship to some audience.