Gravitational Circulation Research Articles

Using flushing rate to investigate spring-neap and spatial variations of gravitational circulation and tidal exchanges in an estuary

Abstract. Spring-neap and spatial variations of gravitational circulation and tidal exchanges in the Sumjin River Estuary (SRE) were investigated using the flushing rate. The flushing rate was calculated between multiple estuarine segments and the adjacent bay to examine the spatial variation of two exchanges. The strength of gravitational circulation and tidal exchanges modulated significantly between spring and neap tides, where stratification alternated between well-mixed and highly-stratified conditions over the spring-neap cycle. Tide-driven dispersive flux of salt dominated over gravitational circulation exchange near the mouth during spring tide due to the larger tidal amplitude that caused well-mixed conditions and rapid exchange. In contrast, the central and inner regimes were found to be partially stratified during spring tide due to the reduction in tidal amplitude where both gravitational circulation and tidal exchanges were important in transporting salt. The combined contributions of two fluxes were also found during neap tide along the SRE due to the significant reduction in vertical mixing that accompanied strong stratification. Gravitational circulation exchange almost entirely dominated in transporting salt at the upstream end during spring and neap tides.

Quantifying the Contributions of Tidal Straining and Gravitational Circulation to Residual Circulation in Periodically Stratified Tidal Estuaries

Abstract This numerical modeling study quantifies for the first time the contribution of various processes to estuarine circulation in periodically stratified tidal flow under the impact of a constant horizontal buoyancy gradient. The one-dimensional water column equations with periodic forcing are first cast into nondimensional form, resulting in a multidimensional parameter space spanned by the modified inverse Strouhal number and the modified horizontal Richardson number, as well as relative wind speed and wind direction and the residual runoff. The along-tide momentum equation is then solved for the tidal-mean velocity profile in such a way that it is equated to the sum of the contributions of tidal straining (resulting from the temporal correlation between eddy viscosity and vertical shear), gravitational circulation (resulting from the depth-varying forcing by a constant horizontal buoyancy gradient), wind straining, and depth-mean residual flow (resulting from net freshwater runoff). This definition of tidal straining does not only account for tidal asymmetries resulting from horizontal buoyancy gradients but also from wind straining and residual runoff. For constant eddy viscosity, the well-known estuarine circulation analytical solution with polynomial residual profiles is directly obtained. For vertically parabolic and constant-in-time eddy viscosity, a new analytic solution with logarithmic residual profiles is found, showing that the intensity of the gravitational circulation scales with the horizontal Richardson number. For scenarios with realistic spatially and temporally varying eddy viscosity, a numerical water column model equipped with a state-of-the-art two-equation turbulence closure model is applied to quantify the individual contributions of the various processes to estuarine circulation. The fundamental outcome of this study is that, for irrotational flow with periodic stratification and without wind forcing and residual runoff, the tidal straining is responsible for about two-thirds and gravitational circulation is responsible for about one-third of the estuarine circulation, proportionally dependent on the horizontal Richardson number, and weakly dependent on the Strouhal number. This new and robust result confirms earlier estimates by H. Burchard and H. Baumert, who suggested that tidal straining is the major generation mechanism for estuarine turbidity maxima. However, a sensitivity analysis of the model results to details of the turbulence closure model shows some uncertainty with respect to the parameterization of sheared convection during flood. Increasing down-estuary wind straining and residual runoff reduce the quantitative contribution of tidal straining. For relatively small horizontal Richardson numbers, the tidal straining contribution to estuarine circulation may even be reversed by down-estuary wind straining.

An idealized model study of flocculation on sediment trapping in an estuarine turbidity maximum

Flocculation has an important impact on particle trapping in estuarine turbidity maximum (ETM) through associated increases in particle settling velocity. To quantify the importance of the flocculation processes, a size-resolved flocculation model is implemented into an ocean circulation model to simulate fine-grained particle trapping in an ETM. The model resolves the particle size from robust small flocs, about 30 μm, to very large flocs, over 1000 μm. An idealized two-dimensional model study is performed to simulate along-channel variations of suspended sediment concentrations driven by gravitational circulation and tidal currents. The results indicate that the flocculation processes play a key role in generating strong tidal asymmetrical variations in suspended sediment concentration and particle trapping. Comparison with observations suggests that the flocculation model produces realistic characteristics of an ETM.

A numerical model study of the transport timescale and change of estuarine circulation due to waterway constructions in the Changjiang Estuary, China

A three-dimensional hydrodynamic model was developed for the Changjiang Estuary and adjacent coastal sea to study the transport timescale and change of estuarine circulation due to human activates. The model was calibrated with measured tidal current and salinity forced by observed freshwater discharge and tides. The tracer age was introduced to measure the transport timescale and evaluate the influence of the man-made construction on estuarine circulation through a series of numerical experiments under various hydrodynamic conditions. The results show that it takes about 23 and 35 days, respectively, for dissolved substances to be transported from the Xuliujing to the mouth of the Estuary (122°30′ E) under high and low discharge conditions. The transport time increases significantly in the upper portion of the North Passage and the South Passage due to the diversion of the freshwater discharge from the upstream North Channel and the increase of the friction downstream. However, the rate of increasing transport time along the estuary decreases farther towards the mouth of the Estuary, presumably resulting from the enhancement of gravitational circulation. Two major physical mechanisms that contribute to the transport timescale, tide and river discharge are analyzed and quantified. The results indicate that freshwater discharge is one of the dominant factors controlling the transport timescale in the Changjiang Estuary. The man-made construction has a significant impact on both horizontal estuarine circulation and gravitational circulation, which ultimately influences the estuarine transport processes. The transport time increased about 50% by man-made constructions, especially near the turbidity maximum. The simulation results provide useful information for understanding the change of transport process and circulation caused by the man-made construction in the Changjiang Estuary.

Coastal currents adjacent to the Caeté Estuary, Pará Region, North Brazil

We examined and compared tidal currents and water column structure between a near-shore station (12 km from the coast) and an offshore station (32 km from the coast) adjacent to the Caeté River, Pará Region, Brazil. Although the coastal system of Pará is largely influenced by local tides and wind, we found substantial differences in the dominant forcing agents between stations. Water column dynamics at the near-shore station were largely affected by local tidal processes, while differences between surface and bottom layer flows also indicated the importance of gravitational circulation at this station and a substantial influence of the adjacent Caeté River discharge. In comparison, at the offshore station, water column structure was largely influenced by a semi-diurnal tidal flow, an along-coastal current flow (mainly associated with the North Brazil Current) and the dynamics of local wind flow. The near-shore station at low tide showed a high level of stratification; at high tide such stratification was reduced. In comparison, stratification was only apparent within the upper 6 m at the offshore station, the rest of the water column was relatively well-mixed. The stratification within Station 1 at low tide was a result of the bi-directional movement of water discharged from the Caeté River, with lower salinity surface water and high salinity bottom water resulting in an estuarine-like circulation environment. The spatial variability and lack of correlation in current flow and water column structure between the near-shore and offshore stations suggest that a flow field resulting from differences in local circulation, tidal variability and wind persistence separate areas. We argue that this separation may indicate that the offshore station is located in a transition region between the Caeté River waters and the local coastal area.

Gravitational circulation and its response to the variation in river discharge in the Seto Inland Sea, Japan

In this study gravitational circulation and its response to the variation in river discharge have been investigated in the Seto Inland Sea, Japan. Monthly hydrographic surveys have been conducted from 2002 to 2006 in Hiuchi‐Nada, a basin located between two straits. Horizontal salinity gradients along the channel varied as the 9/10 power of the river discharge into one end of the basin. Significant volume fluxes which were proportional to the horizontal salinity gradients were found. The relationship between river discharge (R m3 s−1) and the volume flux (Q m3 s−1) was represented as Q = 13.9R0.88. When river discharge increased, vertical density gradients were intensified and then along‐channel horizontal density gradients were gradually enhanced due to vertical mixing at the western strait. These gradients drove gravitational circulations along the channel. The gravitational circulations were not uniform across the channel and accompanied by horizontal circulations. In the northern part of the basin, low‐salinity water at the eastern end of the basin was directed toward the west and high‐salinity water was directed toward the east. The eastward flows arising from the intrusion of relatively heavy water at the western strait extended from the bottom to the surface. In the southern part, low‐salinity water was directed toward the west. The westward flows arising from the intrusion of relatively light water at the eastern strait concentrated in the middle layer and formed a plume‐like structure, accompanied by the eastward flow under the plume. These situations were responsible for the development of the bulk exchange flux.

Physical properties and processes in the Bristol Channel and Severn Estuary

This article firstly describes the physical properties of the Bristol Channel and Severn Estuary in the context of its adjacent seas. These properties include tidal ranges and tidal phases at mean spring tides, storm surge characteristics, wind-driven currents and water levels, and frontal evolution. Simulated data on peak current speeds within the Channel at mean spring and mean neap tides are then presented, together with simulated data on annual mean wind speeds and wave heights. Analyses of observed data are described in the second part of the article. The analyses cover elements of three topics: the influences of tides, topography, runoff, salinity, wind and atmospheric pressure on residual currents and mean water levels; the identification of mechanisms involved in residual water, salt and suspended particulate matter (SPM) transport; and the identification of an exceptionally strong estuarine turbidity maximum (ETM) in the upper reaches of the Severn. Gravitational circulation was evident and strong spring-neap variations in near-bed, mid-depth and upper water column residual currents were identified that demonstrated the importance of non-linear tidal generation due to advection of momentum. Near-bed and mid-depth wind-driven residuals generally were oppositely directed to the wind in the central and inner Channel. A combination of data analyses, analytical modelling of vertical current structure and depth-averaged hydrodynamic modelling was used to interpret features of the data. Analyses of the mechanisms driving residual water, salt and SPM transport at a station in the lower Severn during neap tides showed that vertical shear mechanisms were relatively unimportant to salt and SPM transport. The residual advection and tidal pumping transport mechanisms were quantified.

Three-Dimensional Modeling of Tidal Hydrodynamics in the San Francisco Estuary

Simulations of circulation in the San Francisco Estuary were performed with the three-dimensional TRIM3D hydrodynamic model using a generic length scale turbulence closure. The model was calibrated to reproduce observed tidal elevations, tidal currents, and salinity observations in the San Francisco Estuary using data collected during 1996-1998, a period of high and variable freshwater flow. It was then validated for 1994-1995, with emphasis on spring of 1994, a period of intensive data collection in the northern estuary. The model predicts tidal elevations and tidal currents accurately, and realistically predicts salinity at both the seasonal and tidal time scales. The model represents salt intrusion into the estuary accurately, and therefore accurately represents the salt balance. The model’s accuracy is adequate for its intended purposes of predicting salinity, analyzing gravitational circulation, and driving a particle-tracking model. Two applications were used to demonstrate the utility of the model. We estimated the components of the longitudinal salt flux and examined their dependence on flow conditions, and compared predicted salt intrusion with estimates from two empirical models.

Modeling river plume dynamics with the HYbrid Coordinate Ocean Model

The dynamics of large-scale river plumes are investigated in idealized numerical experiments using the HYbrid Coordinate Ocean Model (HYCOM). The focus of this study is to address how the development and structure of a buoyant plume are affected by the outflow properties, as impacted by processes within the estuary and at the point of discharge to the coastal basin. Changes in the outflow properties involved vertical and horizontal redistribution of the river inflow and enhanced vertical mixing inside an idealized estuary. The development of the buoyant plume was evaluated in a rectangular, f-plane basin with flat and sloping bottom conditions and in the absence of other external forcing. The general behavior of a mid-latitude river plume was reproduced, with the development of a surface anticyclonic bulge off the estuary mouth and a surface along-shore coastal current which flows in the direction of Kelvin wave propagation (“downstream”); the momentum balance was predominantly geostrophic. Conditions within the estuary and the outflow properties at the river mouth (where observed profiles may be available) greatly impacted the fate of riverine waters. In flat bottom conditions, larger mixing at the freshwater source enhanced the estuarine gravitational circulation, promoting larger upward entrainment and stronger outflow velocities. Although the overall geostrophic balance was maintained, estuarine mixing led to an asymmetry of the currents reaching the river mouth and to a sharp anticyclonic veering within the estuary, resulting in reduced upstream flow and enhanced downstream coastal current. These patterns were altered when the plumes evolved in the presence of a bottom slope. The anticyclonic veering of the buoyant outflow was suppressed, the offshore intrusion decreased and the recirculating bulge was displaced upstream. The sloping bottom impacts were accompanied by enhanced transport and increased downstream extent of the coastal current in most cases. No major changes in the general properties and especially the vertical structure of the plumes were observed when the vertical coordinates were changed from cartesian–isopycnal, to sigma or to sigma–isopycnal. The findings offer a benchmark for coastal studies with HYCOM, where plume dynamics should be examined in tandem with additional circulation forcing mechanisms, resulting in transitions of the vertical coordinate system that are dictated by the prevailing dynamics.

Hindcasting of decadal‐timescale estuarine bathymetric change with a tidal‐timescale model

Hindcasting decadal‐timescale bathymetric change in estuaries is prone to error due to limited data for initial conditions, boundary forcing, and calibration; computational limitations further hinder efforts. We developed and calibrated a tidal‐timescale model to bathymetric change in Suisun Bay, California, over the 1867–1887 period. A general, multiple‐timescale calibration ensured robustness over all timescales; two input reduction methods, the morphological hydrograph and the morphological acceleration factor, were applied at the decadal timescale. The model was calibrated to net bathymetric change in the entire basin; average error for bathymetric change over individual depth ranges was 37%. On a model cell‐by‐cell basis, performance for spatial amplitude correlation was poor over the majority of the domain, though spatial phase correlation was better, with 61% of the domain correctly indicated as erosional or depositional. Poor agreement was likely caused by the specification of initial bed composition, which was unknown during the 1867–1887 period. Cross‐sectional bathymetric change between channels and flats, driven primarily by wind wave resuspension, was modeled with higher skill than longitudinal change, which is driven in part by gravitational circulation. The accelerated response of depth may have prevented gravitational circulation from being represented properly. As performance criteria became more stringent in a spatial sense, the error of the model increased. While these methods are useful for estimating basin‐scale sedimentation changes, they may not be suitable for predicting specific locations of erosion or deposition. They do, however, provide a foundation for realistic estuarine geomorphic modeling applications.

Suspended sediment transport and deposition in the Zhoushan Archipelago sea area

The transport mechanism and settlement characteristics of suspended sediments are analyzed in this article on the basis of measured data. Results indicate that the concentration and flux of suspended sediments decrease sharply from Hangzhou Bay to the offshore area. Suspended sediment transport is mainly controlled by advection transport and gravitational circulation transport. The settling velocity of suspended sediments gradually decreases from Hangzhou Bay to the offshore area. The settlement of suspended sediments mainly takes place during the turning phase of the tidal currents.

Effects of physical and biochemical processes on the dissolved oxygen budget for the Pearl River Estuary during summer

Hypoxia in the Pearl River Estuary (PRE) during summer is one of the problems caused by increasing anthropogenic pollutant inputs due to population increase and economic development in recent years. The mechanism for hypoxia in the PRE has to be understood firstly before any management policy can be established. A three-dimensional water quality model was therefore developed to study the dissolved oxygen (DO) budget of the PRE in summer and to identify the roles that various physical and biochemical processes played in DO dynamics. Results show that above the pycnocline, horizontal transport of DO is mainly balanced by reaeration, and photosynthesis appears to play a more important role in the shelf area than inside the PRE due to reduced turbidity. Below the pycnocline, horizontal transport of DO is balanced by biochemical processes. Regarding the DO depletion processes in the PRE above the pycnocline, DOC oxidation is the largest consumer of DO, while nitrification and phytoplankton respiration rank second and third, respectively. Below the pycnocline, SOD dominates DO depletion processes, following by DOC oxidation, nitrification and phytoplankton respiration. The dominant role of SOD in DO depletion processes of the PRE is caused by the shallow topography and high deposition rate of POC. Vertical DO transport in the PRE shows remarkably spatial variability due to complicated hydrology and topography in the PRE. The vertical DO fluxes are dominated by advective fluxes as a result of intense tidal forcing and gravitational circulation in deep channels, while diffusive fluxes dominate in the vertical fluxes within the shoal area as a result of increasing DO vertical gradient due to hypoxia.

Tidal and river discharge forcing upon water and sediment circulation at a rock-bound estuary (Guadiana estuary, Portugal)

The relative impacts of tidal (neap, spring) and river discharge (including a flood event) forcing upon water and sediment circulation have been examined at the rock-bound Guadiana estuary. Near-bed and vertical profiles of current, salinity, turbidity, plus surface suspended sediment concentrations (SSC, at some stations only), were collected at the lower and central/upper estuary during tidal and fortnightly cycles. In addition, vertical salinity and turbidity profiles were collected around high and low water along the estuary. Tidal asymmetry produced faster currents on the ebb than on the flood, especially at the mouth. This pattern of seaward current dominance was enhanced with increasing river flow, due to horizontal advection that was confined within the narrow estuarine channel. The freshwater inputs and, at a degree less, the tidal range controlled the vertical mixing and stratification importance. Well-mixed (spring) and partially stratified (neap) conditions alternated during periods of low river flows, with significant intratidal variations induced by tidal straining (especially at the partially stratified estuary). Highly stratified conditions developed with increasing river discharge. Intratidal variability in the pycnocline depth and thickness resulted from current shear during the ebb. A salt wedge with tidal motion was observed at the lower estuary during the flood event. Depending on the intensity of turbulent mixing, the residual water circulation was dominantly controlled either by tidal asymmetry or gravitational circulation. The SSC was governed by cyclical local processes (resuspension, deposition, mixing, advection) driven by the neap-spring fluctuations in tidal current velocities. More, intratidal variability in stratification indicated the significance of tidal pumping at the partially and highly stratified estuary. The estuary turbidity maximum (ETM) was enhanced with increasing current velocities, and displaced downstream during periods of high river discharge. During the flood event, the ETM was expelled out of the estuary, and the SSC along the estuary was controlled by the sediment load from the drainage basin. Under these highly variable river flow conditions, our observations suggest that sand is exported to the nearshore over the long-term (>years).

Response of sediment dynamics in the York River Estuary, USA to tropical cyclone Isabel of 2003

Tropical Cyclone Isabel of 2003 generated large storm surge, strong waves, and subsequent river flooding in the York River Estuary, USA during its passage across the Chesapeake Bay region. A 3D model was used to investigate the changes of sediment concentration, sediment flux, and the recovery time of the York River Estuary to its naturally evolved condition without the storm. The results showed that two sediment concentration peaks appeared during the storm event. The first one was induced by the large upstream flow and waves during the storm surge rising period, and the later one was caused by the strong downstream flow during the descent of the storm surge. The advection, which was induced by the barotropic gradient, dominated the sediment flux during the storm event. The sediment fluxes increased by a factor of 100 during the rise and descent of the storm surge. A large amount of sediment that was transported into the estuary and eroded from the seabed during the rising of the storm surge was quickly transported out of the estuary during the descent of the storm surge. Waves played a key role in stirring the seabed and increasing the sediment concentration during the storm. Subsequent high freshwater inflow changed the sediment loading and hydrodynamics in the estuary, and thus, influenced the estuarine turbidity maximum (ETM) dynamics profoundly. The ETM moved downstream with the river flooding initially and returned upstream with the waning of river flooding and the re-establishment of gravitational circulation. The effect of river flooding on sediment concentration varied spatially and depended on the changes of ETM locations and vertical mixing. The model results suggest that a large amount of sediment was transported out of the estuary during the storm event and the subsequent river flooding had a larger impact on recovery time of the estuary.

The influence of wind on the water age in the tidal Rappahannock River

Wind plays an important role in regulating mixing/stratification, estuarine circulation, and transport timescale in estuaries. A three-dimensional model was used to investigate the effect of wind on transport time by using the concept of water age (WA) in the tidal Rappahannock River, a western tributary of the Chesapeake Bay, USA. The model was calibrated for water level, current, and salinity. A series of experiments regarding the effects of wind on WA was conducted under various dynamic conditions. The effect of wind on transport timescale depends strongly on the competition between the wind and buoyancy forcings, and on the pre-status of the circulation. A down-estuary wind generally decreases WA along the estuary. An up-estuary wind increases WA substantially because it changes the vertical mixing and estuarine circulation more significantly. When the buoyancy forcing increases, the up-estuary wind effect decreases whereas the down-estuary wind effect increases. A 2-day period wind pulse with a maximum speed of 15 m s −1 can alter WA for 3 days; but the wind influence on WA lasts up to 40 days in the simulation. Both local and non-local wind forcings alter WA distribution. The local wind enhances vertical mixing and changes the gravitational circulation in the downstream portion of the estuary whereas it enhances transport in the freshwater portion of the estuary. Consequently, the local wind has a significant impact on WA distribution. In contrast, the non-local wind does not change the gravitational circulation significantly by imposing setup (setdown) of water level at the open boundary, resulting in a lesser impact on WA distribution.

Hydrodynamics and suspended sediment transport in the Camboriú estuary - Brazil: pre jetty conditions

Estuarine hydrodynamics is a key factor in the definition of the filtering capacity of an estuary and results from the interaction of the processes that control the inlet morphodynamics and those that are acting in the mixing of the water in the estuary. The hydrodynamics and suspended sediment transport in the Camboriú estuary were assessed by two field campaigns conducted in 1998 that covered both neap and spring tide conditions. The period measured represents the estuarine hydrodynamics and sediment transport prior to the construction of the jetty in 2003 and provides important background information for the Camboriú estuary. Each field campaign covered two complete tidal cycles with hourly measurements of currents, salinity, suspended sediment concentration and water level. Results show that the Camboriú estuary is partially mixed with the vertical structure varying as a function of the tidal range and tidal phase. The dynamic estuarine structure can be balanced between the stabilizing effects generated by the vertical density gradient, which produces buoyancy and stratification flows, and the turbulent effects generated by the vertical velocity gradient that generates vertical mixing. The main sediment source for the water column are the bottom sediments, periodically resuspended by the tidal currents. The advective salt and suspended sediment transport was different between neap and spring tides, being more complex at spring tide. The river discharge term was important under both tidal conditions. The tidal correlation term was also important, being dominant in the suspended sediment transport during the spring tide. The gravitational circulation and Stokes drift played a secondary role in the estuarine transport processes.

Effects of intratidal and tidal range variability on circulation and salinity structure in the Cape Fear River Estuary, North Carolina

Tidal influences on circulation and the salinity structure are investigated in the largely unstudied Cape Fear River Estuary (CFRE), North Carolina, a partially mixed estuary along the southeast coast of the United States. During two different tidal conditions (high versus low tidal range) and when river flow was low, salinity and velocity data were collected over a semidiurnal tidal cycle in a 2.8 km long transect along the estuary axis. Water level data were recorded nearby. Mechanisms that influence salt transport characteristics are diagnosed from an analysis of the field data. Specifically, we investigated the relationship between tidal range and salinity through comparison of along‐channel circulation characteristics, computed salt fluxes, and coefficients of vertical eddy diffusivity (Kz) based on a parameterization and on salt budget analysis. Findings indicate up‐estuary tidally driven salt fluxes resulting from oscillatory salt transport are dominant near the pycnocline, while mean advective transport dominates near the bottom during both tidal range periods. Earlier research related to salt transport in estuaries with significant gravitational circulation suggests that up‐estuary salt transport increases during low tidal ranges as a result of increased gravitational circulation. In the CFRE, in contrast, net (tidally averaged) near‐bottom along‐channel velocities are greater during higher tidal range conditions than during lower tidal range conditions. Findings indicate stronger tidal forcing and associated mixing contribute to greater near‐bottom salinity gradients and, consequently, increased baroclinic circulation. Lower near‐bottom salinities during the higher tidal range period are a result of a combination of increased vertical turbulent salt fluxes near the pycnocline and increased bottom‐generated mixing.

Mud deposit formation on the open coast of the larger Patos Lagoon–Cassino Beach system

This paper proposes an explanation of the mud deposits on the inner Shelf of Cassino Beach, South Brazil, by using computational modeling. These mud deposits are mainly formed by sediments delivered from Patos Lagoon, a coastal lagoon connected to the Shelf, next to Cassino Beach. The deposits are characterized by (soft) mud layers of about 1 m thick and are found between the −5 and −20 isobaths. Two hydrodynamic models of the larger Patos Lagoon–Cassino Beach system were calibrated against water elevation measured for a 5 months period, and against currents and salinity measured for a week period. The circulation patterns and water exchange through the mouth were analyzed as a function of local and remote wind effects, and river discharges. The remote wind effect mainly governs the quantity of water exchange with the Lagoon through its effect on mean sea level as a result of Ekman dynamics, while river discharges are important for the salinity of the exchanged water masses. Local winds augment the export–import rates by set-up and set-down within the Lagoon, but their effects are much smaller than those of the remote wind. Currents patterns on the inner Shelf during water outflow revealed a recirculation zone south of the Lagoon, induced by the local geometry and bathymetry of the system. This recirculation zone coincides with observed locations of mud deposition. Water, hence suspended sediment export occurs when remote and local winds are from the N–E, which explains why fine sediment deposits are mainly found south of the Lagoon's breakwater. A sensitivity analysis with the numerical model quantified the contribution of the various mechanisms driving the transport and fate of the fine suspended sediments, i.e. the effects of remote and local wind, of the astronomical tide, of river discharge and fresh–salt water-induced density currents, and of earth rotation. It is concluded that gravitational circulation and earth rotation affects the further dispersion of the deposits largely, whereas the remote wind effect has the largest influence on the amount of sediment released from the Lagoon. It is noted that this paper analyzes the initial deposition patterns induced by current effects only. However, in reality, these deposits are further redistributed over the Shelf by wave effects—these are subject of a next study on the sediment dynamics of the larger Patos Lagoon–Cassino Beach system.

Fine grain sediment transport and deposition in the Patos Lagoon–Cassino beach sedimentary system

Extensive mud deposits superimposed on the predominantly sandy inner continental shelf adjacent to the Patos Lagoon estuary, indicates that the Lagoon is a potential source of fine sediments to the coastal sedimentary system. The lagoon is large and shallow, and the water movement is mainly controlled by wind-driven set-up and set-down. The mean river inflow is around 2000 m 3 s −1, although peak flow rates exceeding 20,000 m 3 s −1 have been observed during El Niño periods. Though the tidal elevations are small, tidal velocities in the lagoon's inlet can be significant due to the large extension of the backwaters. Moreover, significant exchange flows can be generated between the estuary and coastal area due to barotropic pressure gradients established as a function of wind and freshwater discharge. The predominant net flow is seawards, but opposite near-bed flows due to pronounced vertical salinity stratification can also be observed. The coastal area is characterized by small tidal effects, large scale ocean circulation, wind-induced residual flows and wave-driven currents, where the waves originate from swell or are locally generated. Fine sediment is brought into the Patos Lagoon by the rivers and its deposits are likely to have long residence times. These fine sediment deposits can be remobilized by locally generated waves, and driven towards the channels and lagoon′s shallow bays. Suspended particulate matter (SPM) concentrations within the lagoon do not exceed a few 10 mg l −1, though higher values have been measured occasionally. In the southern estuarine part of the lagoon, fine sediments may accumulate due to gravitational circulation effects, yielding SPM concentrations of a few 100 mg l −1. The export of fine sediment from the lagoon to the coastal area occurs predominantly during NE winds. This explains why the majority of the off shore sediment deposits, known as the Patos Facies, are more widespread towards the southern portion of the inner continental shelf. These sediments deposit in the form of fluid and more compacted mud, between the 6 and 20 m isobath, in layers with thickness varying between a few dm to 2 m causing marked lateral differences in grain size. Recent sediment core data, indicates that fluid mud occurrence increases towards the shore and that the mud depocenter remains in the same area as previously mapped two decades before. On a long-term basis, this lateral heterogeneity in sediment properties controls the geomorphology of the inner continental shelf and shoreface, and influences the shoreline accretion rate and beach morphodynamic south of the inlet. Short-term effects are associated with episodic events of mud deposition on the beach during heavy storms that often result in strong gradients in hydrodynamic processes. These gradients in turn influence the morphodynamic behavior on the sectors affected by the mud deposits and can create coastal hazards relating to beach usage.

A Model Study of the Estuarine Turbidity Maximum along the Main Channel of the Upper Chesapeake Bay

A three-dimensional, intratidal sediment transport model is developed for the estuarine turbidity maximum (ETM) in the upper Chesapeake Bay. The model considers three particle size classes, including the fine class mostly in suspension in the water column, the medium class alternately suspended and deposited by tidal currents, and the coarse size suspended only during the times of relatively high energy events. Based on the results of a box model, depth-limited erosion with continuous deposition is employed for the medium and coarse classes by varying the critical shear stress for erosion as a function of eroded mass. For the fine class, mutually exclusive erosion and deposition is employed with a small constant value for the critical shear stresses for erosion and deposition to assure quick erosion of recently deposited fine particles but without allowing further erosion of consolidated bed sediments. The model is run to simulate the annual condition in 1996, and the model generally gives a reasonable reproduction of the observed characteristics of the ETM relative to the salt limit and tidal phase. The model results for 1996 are analyzed to study the characteristics of the ETM along the main channel of the upper bay in intertidal and intratidal time scales. Under a low flow condition, local erosion/deposition and bottom horizontal flux convergence are the main processes responsible for the formation of the ETM, with the settling flux confining the ETM to the bottom water. Under a high flow condition, a distinctive ETM is formed by strong convergence of the downstream flux of sediments eroded from the upstream of the null zone and the upstream flux of sediments settled at the downstream of the null zone. Intratidal variation of the ETM is mainly controlled by erosion and the tidal transport of eroded sediments for a low flow condition. Under the direct influence of a high flow event, the ETM is mainly formed by erosion during ebbing tidal current strengthened by large freshwater discharge and by convergence of ebbing freshwater discharge and flooding tidal current. During the rebounding stage of a high flow event, intratidal variations are mainly controlled by tidal asymmetry caused by the interaction between tidal currents, gravitational circulation, and stratification.