Global Photodamage Research Articles

Efficacy of Topical Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate-Peptide Product Versus Fractional CO2 Laser in Facial Aging.

Many people are interested in addressing visible signs of aging with non-invasive cosmetic treatments. Development of effective topical products will provide options to delay or support cosmetic procedures. This study assessed and compared the efficacy and tolerance of a topical product used over the course of 16 weeks to a single ablative laser treatment on women with moderate global photodamage on the face. Subjects in Cell 1 (Laser Cell) were treated over the entire face with a fractional CO2 laser system. Subjects in Cell 2 (Topical Serum Cell) were treated with a topical serum containing hydroxypinacolone retinoate and peptides over the entire face, twice per day for 16 weeks. The study was composed of 71 women, with 29 in the Laser Cell (mean age 56.2) and 42 in the Topical Serum Cell (mean age 55.0), between 40 and 65 years old. Expert grading was used to determine efficacy parameters. Participants in the Topical Serum Cell achieved more significant improvement (p < 0.05) in Marionette lines, fine lines (global face), wrinkles (global face), wrinkles (crow's feet), nasolabial folds, texture, smoothness (tactile), global hyperpigmentation, lift, and photodamage compared to participants in the Laser Cell. Participants in the Topical Serum Cell achieved parity in the look of fine lines (crow's feet), forehead lines, glabella, firmness/bounce (tactile), skin tone evenness, radiance. While no statistically significant differences in tolerability were observed, treatment with the topical cosmetic product achieved parity or statistically better improvement in parameters compared to laser treatment at 16 weeks.

Clinical Anti-aging Efficacy of Propolis Polymeric Nanoparticles Prepared by a Temperature-induced Phase Transition Method.

Collagen forms a dermal matrix in the skin. Biosynthesis and decomposition of collagen are the major processes in skin aging. Propolis is rich in flavonoids and phenolic compounds, which are known to be effective in preventing skin aging, including the enhancement of fibroblast proliferation, activation, and growth capacity. The aim of this study was to develop a poorly soluble propolis extract as an active ingredient in cosmetic products for anti-aging efficacy. Polymeric nanoparticles containing propolis extract, polyethylene glycol 400, and poloxamer 407 were prepared via a temperature-induced phase transition method. The particle size of the polymeric nanoparticles was approximately 20.75nm. The results of an in vitro procollagen type I carboxy-terminal peptide assay and a matrix metalloproteinase-1 inhibition assay showed that the polymeric nanoparticles increased collagen production by 19.81%-24.59% compared to blank (p<0.05), and significantly reduced intracellular collagenase activity by 7.46%-31.52% compared to blank (p<0.05). In a clinical trial, polymeric nanoparticles in a cosmetic formulation were applied around the eyes of 24 female subjects for 8weeks. Five skin parameters were significantly improved after the application of the test ampoule. Visual evaluation using the Global Photo Damage Score showed a significant reduction in wrinkles after the application of the test ampoules (p<0.001). This study outlines the development of stable polymeric nanoparticles containing poorly soluble propolis in a cosmetic formulation, and its efficacy in wrinkle improvement. The developed polymeric nanoparticles were effective for alleviating wrinkles and can be used for pharmaceutical applications that utilize propolis as antiseptic, anti-inflammatory, antimycotic, antifungal, antibacterial, antiulcer, anticancer, and immunomodulatory agents.

Clinical Study to Evaluate the Efficacy and Tolerability of Cosmeceuticals Targeting the Dermal-Epidermal Junction.

The dermal-epidermal junction (DEJ), composed of rare proteins, plays a significant role in facial skin aging. A newly enhanced multi-ingredient anti-aging facial moisturizer (MFM) and eye cream (MEC) were formulated to target DEJ-related aging. The objective of this study is to assess the efficacy and tolerability of a dual-product regimen MFM and MEC as a treatment in improving intrinsically and extrinsically aged facial and periorbital skin. Forty-two female subjects, 42 to 65 years, Fitzpatrick skin type I&ndash;VI, with mild to moderate droopy eyelids, moderate crow&rsquo;s feet wrinkles, and moderate global photodamage completed this institutional review board (IRB)-approved study. Subjects applied the MFM and MEC twice-daily for 12 weeks. Clinical grading of efficacy and tolerability parameters, VISIA&reg;-CR imaging, image analysis of wrinkles, skin pH, Tewameter, and pinch recoil measurements were performed at baseline, weeks 4, 8, and 12. Optical coherence tomography (OCT) imaging was performed at baseline and week 12. Statistically significant improvement was shown in both clinically graded parameters and bio-instrumentational analyses at all time points. Both products were well tolerated by subjects. This IRB-approved clinical study demonstrated effectiveness in improving intrinsic and extrinsic signs of the global face and periorbital eye area aging after twelve weeks of twice-daily application. J Drugs Dermatol. 2021;20(12):1314-1321. doi:10.36849/JDD.6355.

Tripeptide and hexapeptide topical as adjunct to nonablative fractional resurfacing for photodamage: A randomized split-face trial.

Topical adjuncts have been investigated to improve clinical outcomes associated with laser resurfacing for photodamage and cutaneous aging. One such product is a tripeptide/hexapeptide serum, which has been shown to increase dermal collagen and elastin as well as improve postprocedural recovery following treatments. A randomized, blinded, split-face, comparative trial was performed to assess the utility of a tripeptide/hexapeptide serum as a peri-procedural adjunct to nonablative fractional laser resurfacing. A total of 20 subjects were enrolled. Each hemiface was randomized to either tripeptide/hexapeptide serum or bland moisturizer for twice daily application starting 14days prior to first laser treatment and continuing until 60days after. All subjects received 2 treatments to entire face approximately 1month apart with 1927nm thulium nonablative fractional laser. Clinical measures and immediate postprocedural recovery were assessed. For each hemiface, scores improved for all measures, including global photodamage, lentigines, pores, radiance, texture, and tone at 30 and 60days. The tripeptide/hexapeptide serum had greater improvements for all measures at both time points, except for radiance at 60days, which was equal. In cases where clinical ratings differed between sides, tripeptide/hexapeptide serum more frequently had the superior outcome. Overall, subjects were satisfied with tripeptide/hexapeptide serum. No significant adverse events were observed. Addition of tripeptide/hexapeptide serum as a peri-procedural adjunct to nonablative fractional laser resurfacing improved various clinical measures of photodamage and cutaneous aging and the immediate postprocedural recovery. The tripeptide/hexapeptide serum was demonstrated to be safe, well-tolerated, and well-liked by subjects.

A double-blind randomized controlled trial to assess the efficacy of daylight photodynamic therapy with methyl-aminolevulinate vs. Placebo and daylight in patients with facial photodamage

BackgroundDaylight PDT (dPDT) is easy to use and does not require light equipment. Such therapy has been exhaustively proved to be successful in the treatment of actinic keratosis, but its use in skin photodamage remains unclear. ObjectiveTo evaluate dPDT's efficacy in skin facial photodamage. Patients and methodsThis was a parallel-group double-blind, randomized placebo-controlled trial. Sixty participants with symmetric facial photodamage were allocated to topical methyl aminolevulinate (MAL) and daylight vs. matching placebo and daylight. Primary outcome was global photodamage improvement/failure 1 month after the third session. Secondary outcomes included: pain evaluation; specific photodamage severity scores; sun irradiance quantification and Skindex-29 scores. Adverse events were also investigated. ResultsPrimary analysis included all randomized patients. All patients sun-exposed for 120min in 3 sessions. The risk of failure was lower in the MAL-dPDT group than in the placebo plus daylight group (RR: 0.18; 95% CI: 0.08–0.41). Mean solar irradiance (W/m2) during the first, second and third sessions was 480.82, 430.07 and 435.84, respectively. Items 5 and 14 of Skindex-29 in the MAL-dPDT group showed statistical significant differences. Two patients in the MAL-dPDT group had serious and non-serious events not directly related to the product. ConclusiondPDT with MAL was un-painful, effective and safe for the treatment of facial photodamage. Herpes simplex prophylaxis should be considered before sessions.

Evaluation of the anti-wrinkle effect of an ascorbic acid-loaded dissolving microneedle patch via a double-blind, placebo-controlled clinical study.

Although an ascorbic acid-loaded dissolving microneedle patch has been developed to improve anti-wrinkle effects, an efficacy evaluation with a control group has not yet been performed. In this study, the anti-wrinkle effect of an ascorbic acid-loaded dissolving microneedle patch was evaluated in a double-blind clinical study with a control group. In addition, a cumulative skin irritation and sensitization potential of the ascorbic acid-loaded dissolving microneedle patch was performed. Twenty-three subjects were selected for anti-wrinkle effect evaluation in a double-blind clinical study. Subjects were divided into two groups. Group I subjects applied an ascorbic acid-loaded dissolving microneedle patch on a crow's feet area on the left side of the face and a control sample on a crow's feet area on the right side of the face every 4 days. Group II subjects placed the same patches on opposite sides of the face. Global Photodamage Score and skin replica analysis were conducted by visual inspection and skin visiometer, respectively. A skin irritation and sensitization assessment was performed on 51 subjects using the modified Shelanski & Shelanski procedure. Cumulative skin irritation potential and skin sensitization of the ascorbic acid-loaded dissolving microneedle patch and control sample were evaluated. Skin treated with the ascorbic acid-loaded dissolving microneedle patch showed a statistically significant improvement in both the Global Photodamage Score and visiometer R values (P < 0.05) compared with the control sample. The R2 value (maximum roughness), in particular, showed a highly significant improvement (P < 0.01). The skin irritation and sensitization assessment demonstrated that the ascorbic acid-loaded dissolving microneedle patch did not induce any cumulative skin irritation potential or skin sensitization. An ascorbic acid-loaded dissolving microneedle patch produced a significant anti-wrinkle effect without skin irritation and sensitization problems. This cosmetic dissolving microneedle patch can be used efficiently in the anti-wrinkle cosmetic field with patient convenience.

Antiaging effects of the mixture of Panax ginseng and Crataegus pinnatifida in human dermal fibroblasts and healthy human skin

BackgroundHuman skin undergoes distinct changes throughout the aging process, based on both intrinsic and extrinsic factors. In a process called photoaging, UVB irradiation leads to upregulation of matrix metalloproteinase-1, which then causes collagen degradation and premature aging. Mixtures of medicinal plants have traditionally been used as drugs in oriental medicine. Based on the previously reported antioxidant properties of Panax ginseng Meyer and Crataegus pinnatifida, we hypothesized that the mixture of P. ginseng Meyer and C. pinnatifida (GC) would have protective effects against skin aging. MethodsAnti-aging activity was examined both in human dermal fibroblasts under UVB irradiation by using Western blot analysis and in healthy human skin by examining noninvasive measurements. ResultsIn vitro studies showed that GC improved procollagen type I expression and diminished matrix metalloproteinase-1 secretion. Based on noninvasive measurements, skin roughness values, including total roughness (R1), maximum roughness (R2), smoothness depth and average roughness (R3), and global photodamage scores were improved by GC application. Moreover, GC ameliorated the high values of smoothness depth (R4), which means that GC reduced loss of skin moisture. ConclusionThese results suggest that GC can prevent aging by inhibiting wrinkle formation and increasing moisture in the human skin.

A double-blind randomized controlled trial to assess the efficacy of daylight photodynamic therapy with methyl-aminolevulinate vs. Placebo and daylight in patients with facial photodamage

BackgroundDaylight PDT (dPDT) is easy to use and does not require light equipment. Such therapy has been exhaustively proved to be successful in the treatment of actinic keratosis, but its use in skin photodamage remains unclear. ObjectiveTo evaluate dPDT's efficacy in skin facial photodamage. Patients and methodsThis was a parallel-group double-blind, randomized placebo-controlled trial. Sixty participants with symmetric facial photodamage were allocated to topical methyl aminolevulinate (MAL) and daylight vs. matching placebo and daylight. Primary outcome was global photodamage improvement/failure 1 month after the third session. Secondary outcomes included: pain evaluation; specific photodamage severity scores; sun irradiance quantification and Skindex-29 scores. Adverse events were also investigated. ResultsPrimary analysis included all randomized patients. All patients sun-exposed for 120min in 3 sessions. The risk of failure was lower in the MAL-dPDT group than in the placebo plus daylight group (RR: 0.18; 95% CI: 0.08–0.41). Mean solar irradiance (W/m2) during the first, second and third sessions was 480.82, 430.07 and 435.84, respectively. Items 5 and 14 of Skindex-29 in the MAL-dPDT group showed statistical significant differences. Two patients in the MAL-dPDT group had serious and non-serious events not directly related to the product. ConclusiondPDT with MAL was un-painful, effective and safe for the treatment of facial photodamage. Herpes simplex prophylaxis should be considered before sessions.

A single-center, randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled study on the efficacy and safety of “enzyme-treated red ginseng powder complex (BG11001)” for antiwrinkle and proelasticity in individuals with healthy skin

BackgroundDuring the aging process, skin shows visible changes, characterized by a loss of elasticity and the appearance of wrinkles due to reduced collagen production and decreased elasticity of elastin fibers. Panax ginseng Meyer has been used as a traditional medicine for various diseases due to its wide range of biological activities including skin protective effects. Ginsenosides are the main components responsible for the biological activities of ginseng. However, the protective activities of an enzymatic preparation of red ginseng against human skin aging have not been investigated. MethodsThe efficacy of an enzyme-treated powder complex of red ginseng (BG11001) in preventing human skin aging was evaluated by oral administration to 78 randomized individuals. All patients were requested to take three daily capsules containing either 750 mg of BG11001 or a placebo vehicle for 24 wk; at the end of the testing period, skin roughness, elasticity, and skin water content were measured. ResultsBG11001 significantly reduced the average roughness of eye wrinkles and the Global Photo Damage Score compared with the placebo, although there were no significant differences in arithmetic roughness average between the groups. In addition, gross elasticity and net elasticity values increased, and transepidermal water loss level decreased, indicating improved skin elasticity and moisture content. ConclusionIn conclusion, enzyme-treated red ginseng extract significantly improved eye wrinkle roughness, skin elasticity, and moisture content. Moreover, enzyme-treated red ginseng extract would be useful substance as a bio-health skin care product.

Novel anti‐wrinkle effect of cosmeceutical product with new retinyl retinoate microsphere using biodegradable polymer

The novel hybrid retinoid, retinyl retinoate, is a synthetic material that was designed to reduce the side effects of retinoic acid and to increase the stability of retinol. The formulation of the retinyl retinoate, however, is required to enhance skin permeation, and thus to increase the anti-wrinkle effect. To identify the efficacy of retinyl retinoate microsphere using biodegradable polymer as an anti-aging agent of cosmetics in treating females over 30 years old with periorbital wrinkles. The retinyl retinoate microsphere was prepared using the biodegradable polymer; polylactic acid (PLA). We also conducted two clinical studies with a total of 44 Korean women for 12 weeks. In the first clinical study, 20 patients completed a 12-week trial of cream A [3% PLA-retinyl retinoate (2%) microsphere] applied twice daily to the face. In the second clinical study, 24 patients completed a 12-week trial of cream B (0.06% retinyl retinoate) applied twice daily to the face. Efficacy was based on a global photodamage score, photographs, and image analysis using replicas and Visiometers every 4 weeks. The PLA-retinyl retinoate microsphere was more effective for the permeation of retinyl retinoate than retinyl retinoate in itself. The cream A, which contains 3% PLA-retinyl retinoate (2%) microsphere, showed a statistically significant improvement in facial wrinkles (P<0.05) in 20 volunteers after only 4 weeks of application in a clinical trial test. The visual wrinkle improvement and the maximum roughness improvement rate (R2) for cream A was 6.05%, 8.03% higher than that of cream B which contains 0.06% retinyl retinoate, after 4 weeks. Retinyl retinoate has a potent anti-wrinkle activity, and the PLA-retinyl retinoate microsphere could be a useful cosmeceutical product for anti-aging purposes.

Retinyl retinoate, a novel hybrid vitamin derivative, improves photoaged skin: a double‐blind, randomized‐controlled trial

All-trans-retinoic acid (RA) and all-trans-retinol (ROL) are not widely used as anti-wrinkle agents due to their irritancy and photo-stability, respectively. Therefore, the safety and photo-stability in the development of RA or ROL derivatives have been an important issue. To identify the efficacy of retinyl retinoate as an anti-aging agent of cosmetics in treating females over 30 years old with periorbital wrinkles. The clinical study was a prospective, double-blind, randomized, and controlled study with a total of 11 Korean women. At every 4 weeks, the effectiveness was assessed with a global photodamage score, photographs, and image analysis using replicas and visiometers. The dermal distance and intensity was also evaluated using Dermascan C. A statistically significant improvement in facial wrinkles (P<0.05) in eleven volunteers was observed in a clinical trial. The successive application of 0.06% retinyl retinoate cream for 3 months showed decreased depth and area of wrinkles in comparison with 0.075% retinol cream. The visual wrinkle improvement and the maximum roughness improvement rate (R2) for retinyl retinoate cream were 22% higher than that of retinol cream after 12 weeks. A statistically significant increase was observed after 8 and 4 weeks for dermal distance and dermal intensity, respectively (P<0.05). Retinyl retinoate had characteristic features of new anti-aging agents, and effectively improved facial wrinkle conditions.

A prospective split-face double-blind randomized placebo-controlled trial to assess the efficacy of methyl aminolevulinate + red-light in patients with facial photodamage

To date, there is no gold standard therapy for skin photoageing. In the last decade, laser technologies have offered great promise among skin-rejuvenation therapies; however, both non-ablative and ablative fractional resurfacing modalities have their own benefits and drawbacks. More recently, open-label studies and few controlled trials have suggested that photodynamic therapy may have therapeutic potential in photodamage. To assess the efficacy of methyl aminolevulinate + red-light on facial photodamage in a double-blind split-face randomized placebo-controlled trial. Subjects had initially two split-face treatments 2-3 weeks apart in which half of the face was treated with MAL + red-light compared with placebo + red-light. Primary outcome was the assessment of global photodamage 1 month after session 2. Secondary outcomes included the assessment of fine lines, mottled pigmentation, tactile roughness, sallowness, erythema and telangiectasia 1 month after session 2, according to severity scores rated as failure, improvement or success. Based on the intention-to-treat analysis, a total of 48 patients (96 split-faces) were included. Facial global photodamage success or improvement had occurred in 94 split-faces and in no split-faces receiving placebo (RR: 0.02; 95% confidence interval, 0.0-0.14; P = 0.0000). One patient had an adverse event that led to the discontinuation of the therapy after session 1. Methyl aminolevulinate + red-light demonstrated significantly superior efficacy in global facial photodamage compared with placebo. This therapy was also useful for all other specific secondary outcomes, except for telangiectasia. Overall, MAL + red-light sessions were well tolerated and resulted in high/total patient satisfaction in the majority of subjects (80.4%).

Improvement in skin wrinkles from the use of photostable retinyl retinoate: a randomized controlled trial

Photoaged skin can be treated with retinoids, which are natural and synthetic vitamin A derivatives. However, these are photounstable and can cause skin irritation, which is a major limitation in their use in general cosmetics. Retinyl retinoate, which is an ester of all-trans retinoic acid (RA) and all-trans retinol, has reduced toxicity due to blocking of the carboxyl end group of RA and higher skin regeneration activity than retinol. To assess the efficacy of a photostable retinyl retinoate in treating women over 30 years old with periorbital wrinkles. We conducted two clinical studies with a total of 46 Korean women with periorbital wrinkles, who were not pregnant, nursing or undergoing any concurrent therapy. In the first clinical study, the efficacy of retinyl retinoate was compared with placebo. Twenty-four patients completed a 12-week trial of 0.06% retinyl retinoate applied twice daily to one side of the face and a placebo applied to the other side. In the second clinical study, the efficacy of retinyl retinoate was compared with retinol. Twenty-two patients completed an 8-week trial of 0.06% retinyl retinoate applied twice daily to one side of the face and 0.075% retinol applied to the other side. Efficacy was based on a global photodamage score, photographs, and image analysis using replicas and visiometer analysis (Skin-Visiometer SV 600; Courage & Khazaka, Cologne, Germany) every 4 weeks. The standard wrinkle and roughness parameters used in assessing skin by visiometer were calculated and statistically analysed. The retinyl retinoate-treated wrinkles improved compared with wrinkles treated with placebo or retinol, as assessed by both the investigators and the subjects. Also, skin replica analysis indicated significant improvements in retinyl retinoate-treated skin in both studies, especially in average roughness. Retinyl retinoate applied twice daily was significantly more effective than a placebo or retinol in treating periorbital wrinkles. Importantly, no severe side-effects were observed.

Topical 5-Aminolevulinic Acid Combined With Intense Pulsed Light in the Treatment of Photoaging

The adjunctive use of 5-aminolevulinic acid (5-ALA) with intense pulsed-light (IPL) treatments has been suggested to increase the benefit of IPL for photoaging; however, to our knowledge, no controlled trials have been performed. A prospective, randomized, controlled, split-face study was designed. Twenty subjects participated in a series of 3 split-face treatments 3 weeks apart in which half of the face was pretreated with 5-ALA followed by IPL treatment while the other half was treated with IPL alone. Two additional full-face treatments (with IPL alone) were then delivered 3 weeks apart. Assessment of global photodamage, fine lines, mottled pigmentation, tactile roughness, and sallowness (on a scale of 0-4) was performed by a blinded investigator before each treatment and 4 weeks after the final treatment. Patients also completed an assessment at the conclusion of the study comparing their results with pretreatment photographs. All 20 volunteers completed the study. Pretreatment with 5-ALA resulted in more improvement in the global score for photoaging (16 [80%] subjects vs 9 [45%] subjects; P = .008) and mottled pigmentation (19 [95%] subjects vs 12 [60%] subjects; P = .008) than IPL treatment alone. More successful results were achieved on the side pretreated with 5-ALA compared with the side treated with IPL alone for fine lines (12 [60%] subjects vs 5 [25%] subjects; P = .008) and mottled pigmentation (17 [85%] subjects vs 4 [20%] subjects; P < .001). While there was noticeable improvement over baseline scores with respect to tactile roughness and sallowness, pretreatment with 5-ALA did not seem to enhance the results of the IPL treatment. The final investigator cosmetic evaluations (P=.0002) and subject satisfaction scores (P=.005) were significantly better for the 5-ALA-pretreated side. Both treatments were well tolerated, with little difference in the incidence or profile of adverse effects with or without 5-ALA pretreatment. The adjunctive use of 5-ALA in the treatment of facial photoaging with IPL provides significantly greater improvement in global photodamage, mottled pigmentation, and fine lines than treatment with IPL alone, without a significant increase in adverse effects. This combination treatment enhances the results of photorejuvenation and improves patient satisfaction.