Functional Cosmetic Materials Research Articles

Effect of Trichosanthis Radix Extract on Anti-allergy and Skin Inflammation

This study was conducted to study the effects of TR-W and TR-E on anti-allergy and skin inflammation inhibition. In order to check the concentration used in the experiment and its toxicity to cells, RBL-2H3 cells and HMC-1 cells were treated with TR-W and TR-E at different concentrations and tested at a concentration of 100 mg/ml or less, which does not affect the survival rate. proceeded. In order to determine the effect on the inflammatory response to mast cells, the inflammatory cytokines TNF-α, IL-8, and IL-6 were measured. As a result, TR-W and TR were found in TNF-α and IL-8, which promote the early inflammatory response. -E showed a significant effect at 100 mg/ml, and TR-E showed a significant effect at 50 mg/ml, showing the effect even at a lower concentration than TR-W. IL-6, which is involved in causing allergic dermatitis, showed a significant effect at 100 and 50 mg/ml in TR-W and TRE, indicating that it is effective in suppressing inflammation in TR-W and TR-E. In addition, histamine and β-hexosaminidase, which are inflammatory mediators involved in the initial allergic reaction, were significantly suppressed at 100 and 50 mg/ml in TR-W and TR-E, demonstrating anti-allergy effect. These research results are believed to have the highest utility value as a functional cosmetic material in the future, and additional research is considered necessary.

Anti-wrinkle and Antioxidant Effects of Elderflower (Sambucus nigra) Water Extract as a Functional Ingredient of Cosmetics

Purpose: This study examined the potential of elderflower (<i>Sambucus nigra</i>) water extract (SNE) as a cosmetic material by evaluating its anti-wrinkle, antioxidant, and cytotoxic effects.Methods: We determined the antioxidant effect of SNE by measuring its 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) radical–scavenging and superoxide dismutase (SOD)-like activity and determined the anti-wrinkle effect of SNE by measuring its elastase inhibition activity. In addition, we assayed the viability of B16-F10 mouse melanoma and CCD-986sk human dermal fibroblast cells in the presence of SNE.Results: SNE showed a DPPH radical–scavenging activity of 77%, 76.4%, and 75.2% at a concentration of 1000, 500, and 250 μg/mL, respectively, and SOD-like activity of 78%, 70%, and 66% at a concentration of 200, 100, and 50 μg/mL, respectively. In addition, 500 μg/mL of SNE exhibited 48% elastase inhibition activity. Furthermore, B16-F10 cells showed a viability of 118%, 115%, and 109% when treated with 200, 100, and 50 μg/mL of SNE, respectively, and CCD-986sk cells showed high cell viability when treated with 200, 100, and 50 μg/mL of SNE.Conclusion: The results of this study indicate that SNE has excellent antioxidant and anti-wrinkle effects, confirming its high applicability as a functional cosmetic material.

Combination of Nicotinamide and Agastache rugosa Extract: A Potent Strategy for Protecting Hs68 Cells from UVB-Induced Photoaging.

This study investigated the protective effects of nicotinamide (NAM) and Agastache rugosa extract (AR) against ultraviolet B (UVB)-induced photoaging in Hs68 cells. The results demonstrated that NAM and AR, alone or in combination, exhibited concentration-dependent protective effects against UVB radiation. The highest synergistic effect was observed at a NAM:AR ratio of 6:4. This combination exhibited a synergistic protective effect against UVB-induced photoaging. The sample concentration required for 80% cell survival was 9.70 μM and 131.16 ppm for NAM and AR, respectively. However, when combined, they exhibited strong synergistic effects with concentrations as low as 0.11 μM and 17.50 ppm. Moreover, 5.26 μM of NAM and 1,082.13 ppm of AR were required to inhibit 30% of reactive oxygen species, but the combination treatment required 0.62 μM and 95.49 ppm, respectively. This combination significantly reduced the production of matrix metalloproteinase and increased collagen production. These findings highlight the potential of combining NAM and AR as functional cosmetic materials to protect against UVB-induced photoaging. The synergistic effects observed in this study provide valuable information for developing novel strategies for cosmetic combinations that target UVB-mediated skin damage.

Effects of Trichosanthis Radix Extract on Collagen Production

This study was conducted to study the effects of Trichosanthis Radix water extract (TR-W) and Trichosanthis Radix 60% ethanol extract (TR-E) on collagen production. As a result of conducting a cytotoxicity experiment on HDFn cells and RAW 264.7 cells, the experiment was conducted at a concentration of TR-W and TR-E at 100 mg/ml, which does not significantly affect the survival rate in HDF and RAW 264.7 cells. The effect on collagen synthesis ability showed an increase of 52% for the positive control group L-AA (vitamin C) 52% for TR-W 25% and TR-E 36% at 100 mg/ml proving its effect on collagen synthesis ability. In terms of inhibition of MMP-1 expression related to collagen damage L-AA (vitamin C) a positive control group, showed an inhibitory effect of 54%, and TR-W and TR-E showed an inhibitory effect of 72% and 68% at 100 mg/ml, thereby inhibiting collagen decomposition enzyme. MMP-1 was stably inhibited. Compared to Control, the free radical scavenging activity of L-AA (vitamin C) a positive control group, showed a scavenging activity of 108.4%, and in TR-W and TR-E, it showed an inhibitory effect of 93.4% and 98.2% at 100 mg/ml. In NO related to inflammation, showed an anti-inflammatory effect of 67.4% and 50.2% at a concentration of 100 mg/ml of TR-W and TR-E compared to the control group, which is expected to have a positive effect on collagen production due to inflammation. This study The results are judged to have the highest utility value as a functional cosmetic material considering the stability of the skin in the future.

Antimicrobial Activities against Skin Flora from Tart-cherry Extracts (Prnus cerasus)

Purpose: In this study, antibacterial and anti-oxidant activities of Tart-cherry hydrothermal extracts (TCW) and ethanol extracts (TCE) against dermatological bacteria were measured, and the cell viability and anti-inflammatory effects were investigated in RAW264.7 macrophages to determine their characteristics for use as functional cosmetic materials. Methods: Anti-oxidant activity was determined using the DPPH method. The antibacterial activity against dermatophilosis was confirmed by the size of the clear zone formed by DISK diffusion and MIC measurement. The activity against an antibiotic-resistant MRSA strain was also measured. Anti-inflammatory response was identified by measuring cytotoxicity and NO activity in RAW264.7 macrophages, in which inflammatory reactions were induced with LPS. Results: Anti-oxidant activity of the TCE was 85.6%, and of TCW was 88.4% at 500 μg/mL. The size of the clear zone was confirmed using Cutibacterium acnes (18 mm), <i>Staphylococcus epidermis</i> (<i>S. epidermis</i> ) (4 mm), and <i>Staphylococcus aureus</i> (<i>S. aureus</i> ) (16 mm). No antifungal activity against <i>Candida albicans</i> was observed. RAW264.7 macrophages showed a survival rate of >90% at <250 μg/mL of extract. Additionally, a concentration-dependent inhibition of NO production was observed. Conclusion: Tart-cherry extracts possessed high anti-oxidant activity and anti-inflammatory efficacy. In addition to the antibacterial activity against the skin-residing bacteria, <i>S. aureus</i> and <i>S. epidermis</i>, high activity against the acne-causing strain <i>C. acnes</i> suggests a sufficient potential of Tart-cherry extracts as a raw material for the preparation of cosmetics and bioproducts.

Development of a Semi-Dry Method for Measuring Drug Permeation into Skin Using an Electric Facial Care Device and Iontophoresis

Introduction: Percutaneous drug delivery systems are attractive not only as a therapeutic strategy but also for cosmetic treatment. Iontophoresis is a well-recognized method for promoting transdermal absorption of ionized compounds. Franz cells are generally used to estimate drug permeation of skin by iontophoresis. However, methods using Franz cells are less versatile; for instance, the method is unsuited for use with a portable electric facial care device having a working probe of a certain size and weight. In this study, we constructed a semi-dry apparatus for use with an electric facial care device. Methods: The apparatus has a multilayer structure consisting of mouse skin and 3 filter papers, modeled after the Franz cell. The skin permeation of the drug edaravone (3-methyl-1-phenyl-2-pyrazolin-5-one) was then measured using this apparatus. Results: Edaravone permeation depended on working time, drug concentration, and ionization ratio of edaravone when iontophoresis was carried out with an electric facial care device. Furthermore, glycyrrhizic acid, α-tocopheryl phosphate, retinoic acid, and ascorbyl palmitate, which are recognized as functional cosmetic materials, also permeated the skin by applying iontophoresis with the device. Conclusion: These results suggest that the developed measuring apparatus is applicable for use with a portable electric facial care device and that iontophoresis using a portable electric facial care device is potentially useful in the cosmetic field.

A Study on Antioxidant, Pro-collagen Synthesis and MMP-1 Inhibitory Activities of Salvia microphylla Extract

Purpose: This study aimed to investigate the physiological activity of the antioxidant and anti-wrinkle effects of an ethanol extract of <i>Salvia microphylla</i> (SM) and the possibility of their application in new cosmetic material.Methods: SME70 extract was prepared from powdered SM using 70% ethanol. For the analysis of the antioxidant activities of SME70, the total polyphenolic and flavonoid content, 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH), and 2,2′-azino-bis(3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid) (ABTS) radical scavenging assays were performed. The cell viability was determined in fibroblast cells (CCD-986sk) using an MTT assay. For analysis of the anti-wrinkle effects of SME70, pro-collagen synthesis and MMP-1 inhibition activities in human fibroblasts were investigated.Results: The total polyphenol and flavonoid contents in SME70 were 198.22±2.14 mg GAE/g and 291.55±6.60 mg QUE/g, respectively. The DPPH radical scavenging activity of SME70 was 92.99±0.14% at 400 μg/mL and ABTS radical scavenging activity of SME70 was 99.37±0.12% at 600 μg/mL. The cell viability of fibroblasts was 99.56±2.77% at 200 μg/mL. Pro-collagen synthesis activity of SME70 increased in a concentration-dependent manner and was 140.74±5.31% at 200 μg/mL. The matrix metalloprotease (MMP-1) inhibition effect of SME70 decreased in a concentration-dependent manner, and was 65.36±1.40% at 200 μg/mL. Therefore, it is suggested that SME70 can be used as a new material for cosmetics with anti-wrinkle effects.Conclusion: The antioxidant, pro-collagen synthesis, and MMP-1 inhibitory effects of SME70 were established, confirming its potential as a material for functional cosmetics with antiwrinkle properties.

롱빈 콩 에탄올추출물의 항산화 및 NO 생성 억제 효과

In order to prepare basic data for examining the development of longbean (Vigna unguiculata ssp. sesquipedalis) as a possible natural material for functional cosmetics, the study investigated the yield, total polyphenol content, antioxidant, and the NO production inhibitory effects of an ethanol-produced extract of longbean soybean parts. As a result, the yield of the longbean ethanol extract was found to be 14.93% and the total polyphenol content was confirmed to be 4.36±0.473 mg/g. When the antioxidant effect was measured by the electron donating ability and the ABTS radical scavenging activity, the electron donating ability tended to increase as the concentration increased, and showed a high scavenging ability of 92.32% at a concentration of 1,000 μg/mL. And the ABTS radical scavenging activity showed a scavenging effect of 99.81% at a concentration of 100 μg/ml, and the scavenging effect was equivalent to that of vitamin C. As a result of measuring the antioxidant activity, the ABTS radical scavenging ability showed a higher scavenging effect than the electron donating ability. The cell viability of RAW 264.7 cells was 99.82-100.28% up to the concentration of 500 μg/ml, and cytotoxicity was not observed up to 500 μg/ml. The NO production inhibitory activity showed a significant decrease to 81.84% at a concentration of 500 μg/ml. Therefore, it is considered that the long bean ethanol extract can be used as a natural material for cosmetics. In future studies, it is necessary to demonstrate the physiological activity, such as anti-inflammatory mechanisms, whitening, and wrinkle improvement through component analysis.

Effect of Electron-Beam Irradiation on Functional Compounds and Biological Activities in Peanut Shells.

Peanut shells, rich in antioxidants, remain underutilized due to limited research. The present study investigated the changes in the functional compound content and skin aging-related enzyme inhibitory activities of peanut shells by electron-beam treatment with different sample states and irradiation doses. In addition, phenolic compounds in the peanut shells were identified and quantified using ultra-performance liquid chromatography with ion mobility mass spectrometry-quadrupole time-of-flight and high-performance liquid chromatography with a photodiode array detector, respectively. Total phenolic compound content in solid treatment gradually increased from 110.31 to 189.03 mg gallic acid equivalent/g as the irradiation dose increased. Additionally, electron-beam irradiation significantly increased 5,7-dihydroxychrome, eriodictyol, and luteolin content in the solid treatment compared to the control. However, liquid treatment was less effective in terms of functional compound content compared to the solid treatment. The enhanced functional compound content in the solid treatment clearly augmented the antioxidant activity of the peanut shells irradiated with an electron-beam. Similarly, electron-beam irradiation substantially increased collagenase and elastase inhibitory activities in the solid treatment. Mutagenicity assay confirmed the stability of toxicity associated with the electron-beam irradiation. In conclusion, electron-beam-irradiated peanut shells could serve as an important by-product with potential applications in functional cosmetic materials.

Evaluation of Rhodiola rosea Root Fraction as a Functional Cosmetic Ingredient

To develop functional cosmetic material using <i>Rhodiola rosea</i>, the biological activities such as anti-oxidant, anti-inflammatory, astringent, anti-tyrosinase, and anti-elastase activity were investigated with methanol, <i>n</i>-hexane, chloroform, ethyl acetate, n-butanol, and water fractions of <i>R. rosea</i> Root. DPPH and ABTS radical scavenging activities of ethyl acetate fraction were increased in a dosedependent manner; the activities were higher than other fractions. The total phenolic content of ethyl acetate fraction also showed a relatively high value of 500.485±4.848 mgGAE/g. The ethyl acetate fraction also significantly decreased LPS-induced NO production and IL-6 secretion compared with untreated control cells at above 5-100 μg/mL concentrations. The astringent activity of ethyl acetate fraction was 94.31% at a concentration of 500 μg/mL, and the activity of ethyl acetate fraction was similar to that of tannic acid. The mushroom tyrosinase inhibition abilities of hexane, ethyl acetate, and butanol were 10.44%, 17.53%, and 14.55%, respectively, at 100 μg/mL. Furthermore, an elastase inhibition rate showed a relatively high effect at 100 μg/mL, 45.46% of inhibition rate in the ethyl acetate and 45.07% of inhibition rate in the butanol fraction. These results indicate that R. rosea Root would be used as a natural material in the functional cosmetic and beauty-food industries.

Ethyl Gallate Isolated from Castanopsis cuspidata var. sieboldii Branches Inhibits Melanogenesis and Promotes Autophagy in B16F10 Cells

The Castanopsis cuspidata var. sieboldii (CCS) plant grows predominantly in temperate regions of Asian countries, such as South Korea. Research on CCS has so far concentrated on the nutritional analysis, antioxidant activity, and anti-inflammation properties of its branches. However, the isolation of compounds and structural elucidation of effective single molecules remain unexplored, necessitating further exploration of CCS branches. Therefore, this study demonstrates the antioxidant and antimelanogenic activity of a single substance of ethyl gallate (EG) isolated from CCS branch extracts. Notably, the antimelanogenic (whitening) activity of EG extracted from CCS branches remains unexplored. Tyrosinase inhibition, kinetic enzyme assays, and molecular docking studies were conducted using mushroom tyrosinase in order to examine the antioxidant mechanism and antimelanin activity of EG in B16F10 melanoma cells. Nontoxic EG concentrations were found to be below 5 µg/mL. While EG significantly reduced the levels of whitening-associated proteins, p-CREB, and p-PKA, it dose-dependently inhibited the expression of TYR, TRP-1, TRP-2, and transcription factor (MITF). In addition, EG downregulated melanogenetic gene expression and activated autophagy signals. Therefore, EG extracted from CCS branches could serve as a novel functional cosmetic material with antimelanogenic and autophagy-enhancing activity.

자운영 에탄올 추출물이 인간 진피 섬유아세포에 미치는 노화 방지 효과

Background: Skin aging is caused by two factors: Intrinsic factors such as genetics and extrinsic factors such as ultraviolet exposure. This study aimed to explore the ameliorating activity of ethanol extract of Astragalus sinicus (ASE) on human skin fibroblast (HDFs) subjected to intrinsic and extrinsic aging via continuous culturing and UVB radiation, respectively.BRMethods and Results: Matrix metalloproteinase (MMP-1) mRNA expression and elastase activity were determined using qRT-PCR and ELISA, respectively. The activities of senescence-associated β-galactosidase (SA-β-gal) with or without UVB exposure were investigated using enzyme histochemical staining assay. ASE treatment decreased MMP-1 expression and elastase activity. Furthermore, ASE treatment suppressed SA-β-gal activity in both UVB-exposed and UVB-free environments.BRConclusions: These finding suggest that ASE has dermal anti-aging effects and can be employed as a functional cosmetic material.

The Effect of a Mask Pack Using Sprout Oats on Female Facial Skin

This study applied mask packs to the facial skin nine times and measured pores, pigmentation, wrinkles, and elasticity of the skin for about three weeks from June 12 through July 3, 2021, to verify the effect of sprout oats, a natural ingredient, on enhancing the facial skin of women. As a result of a clinical trial, there were effects on skin enhancement, including decreased pores, decreased pigmentation, decreased wrinkles, and increased elasticity after the use of a mask pack containing sprout oats, and statistically significant results were also identified. As for pore reduction, there was a decrease of 6.32% two weeks after the trial compared to before that in the experimental group while 36.21% three weeks after that. Regarding pigmentation reduction, there was a decrease of 2.86% two weeks after the trial compared to before that in the experimental group and 28.57% three weeks after that. Regarding wrinkle decrease, there was a decrease of 9.09% two weeks after the trial compared to before that in the experimental group and 30.30% three weeks after that. As for the increase of elasticity, it increased by 24.44% two weeks after the trial compared to before that in the experimental group while it increased by 175.56% three weeks after the trial. In conclusion, it was confirmed that sprout oats, a natural material, have an effect on skin improvement and provided clinical data for development in the cosmetic industry. Therefore, it is judged that sprout oats have industrial value as a raw material for natural functional cosmetics.

Fermented Angelicae tenussimae with Aspergillus oryzae Improves Skin Barrier Properties, Moisturizing, and Anti-Inflammatory Responses.

Angelicae tenussimae root has been used as a traditional medicine in Asia. Recently, anti-melanogenic and anti-photogenic effects of fermented A. tenuissima root (FAT) were identified. However, information about the anti-atopic dermatitis action of FAT is limited. Thus, the purpose of this study is to determine the applicability of FAT to AD by identifying the efficacy of FAT on the skin barrier and inflammatory response, which are the main pathogenesis of AD. Expression levels of skin barrier components and the production of inflammatory mediators in human keratinocyte and mouse macrophage cells were measured by quantitative RT-PCR or ELISA. FAT upregulated the expression of skin barrier components (filaggrin, involucrin, loricurin, SPTLC1) and inhibited the secretion of an inflammatory chemokine TARC in HaCaT cells. Furthermore, it suppressed pro-inflammatory cytokines (IL-6, TNF-α) and nitric oxide production in LPS-induced RAW264.7 cells. In addition, ligustilide increased filaggrin and SPTLC1, and also lowered pro-inflammatory mediators that increased in atopic environments, such as in FAT results. This means that ligustilide, one of the active ingredients derived from FAT, can ameliorate AD, at least in part, by promoting skin barrier formation and downregulating inflammatory mediators. These results suggest that FAT is a potential functional cosmetic material for the care and management of AD.

잇꽃 에탄올 및 열수 추출물의 항노화 기반 항주름효과 비교

Background: The safflower flower (Carthamus tinctorius) contains many bioactive substances and natural pigments. This study aimed to develop a safe and effective functional cosmetic material by comparing the antioxidant and anti-wrinkle effects of C. tinctorius flower ethanol extract (CTE) and hot water extract (CTW).BRMethods and Results: First, the content of hydroxysafflor yellow A in CTE and CTW was determined. Subsequently, a cell-free system was used to examine the 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) radical scavenging activity of CTE and CTW. Furthermore, the effects of CTE and CTW on elastase and matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) were determined through enzymatic analysis or real-time quantitative reverse transcription polymerase chain reaction (qRT-PCR) in human dermal fibroblast (HDF) cells. The wound closure effect of CTW was also measured using the scratching assay in keratinocyte HaCaT cells. The DPPH scavenging activity of CTE was slightly higher than that of CTW. Regarding wrinkle formation, CTE unexpectedly increased MMP-1 and had no effect on elastase activity except at 1,000 ㎍/㎖ of CTE. In contrast, CTW inhibited both elastase activity and MMP-1 expression. CTW also showed a considerable increase in wound closure rate in the scratching assay.BRConclusions: In conclusion, CTW containing the natural pigment hydroxysafflor yellow A is an effective substance for wrinkle treatment and wound healing for skin aging.

Anti-Aging Effects of Terminalia bellirica, Phyllanthus emblica, Triphala, and Carica papaya Extracts for Sustainable Youth

As the human lifespan becomes longer, many people invest time and money in managing external beauty. However, managing external beauty has the disadvantage of causing side effects or that the effect does not last. Therefore, research and development are required to maximize effectiveness, eco-friendliness, and sustainably in beauty management. The purpose of this study was to experimentally identify the anti-aging effects, such as skin wrinkle and elasticity improvement, of extracts from Bahera, Phyllanthus emblica, Triphala, and Carica papaya, and to confirm their development as whitening and wrinkle functional cosmetic materials. In this study, a solid mixture was prepared using eco-friendly Terminalia bellirica, amla (Phyllanthus emblica), Triphala, and Carica papaya, and experimental samples were extracted. Antioxidant tests, antibacterial activity tests, polyphenol and flavonoid content, and deodorization tests were conducted to test the efficacy of experimental samples. The procedures and methods of these experiments are summarized in the following article. In this study, we found that the Bahera, Phyllanthus emblica, Triphala, and Carica papaya extracts had significant effects on whitening and wrinkle improvement, and that the effects of using ethanol-based extracts as the co-solvent were even greater. In other words, extracts of Bahera, Phyllanthus emblica, Triphala and Carica papaya showed antioxidant, whitening, and anti-wrinkle effects, and extracts that used ethanol as a co-solvent showed greater effects. In particular, we found that the optimal concentration of ethanol as a co-solvent maximizes its effectiveness at 70%.

Preventive Effect of M. cochinchinensis on Melanogenesis via Tyrosinase Activity Inhibition and p-PKC Signaling in Melan-A Cell.

Whitening research is of particular interest in the cosmetics market. The main focus of whitening research is on melanogenesis inhibition through tyrosinase activity. The mechanism of melanogenesis is involved with tyrosinase activity and p-PKC signaling. In this study, we used Momordica cochinchinensis (Lour.) spreng, a tropical fruit found throughout Southeast Asia, to investigate the inhibitory effect of melanogenesis. M. cochinchinensis contains a high concentration of polyphenols, flavonoids, and unsaturated fatty acids, which might be related to antioxidant activity. This study aimed to determine whether M. cochinchinensis extracts inhibit melanin synthesis in melan-A cells by inhibiting tyrosinase activity and p-PKC signaling. M. cochinchinensis was divided into pulp and aril and extracted under various conditions, and it was confirmed that all pulp and aril extracts have high contents of both phenols and flavonoids. Melan-A cells were treated with PMA for three days to induce melanin synthesis. After PMA treatment, M. cochinchinensis extracts were added to cultured media in a dose-dependent manner. Melanin contents and MTS were used to determine the amount of melanin in live cells. M. cochinchinensis extracts were evaluated for their effects on tyrosinase activity and p-PKC signaling pathways by Western blotting. It was found that M. cochinchinensis extract treatment decreased the amount of melanin and suppressed p-PKC expression. Additionally, tyrosinase activity was reduced after M. cochinchinensis extract treatment in a dose-dependent manner. Therefore, it was concluded that M. cochinchinensis could be used in antimelanogenesis and functional cosmetic materials to improve whitening.

Physicochemical Properties of the Fermentation of Poly Hydroxy Acid (PHA) using the Lactobacillus plantarum J2K-27 Strain

Purpose: This study aimed to investigate the characteristics of fermented poly hydroxyl acid (F-PHA) using the Lactobacillus plantarum J2K-27 strain, and identify the applicability of its biological compounds. Methods: F-PHA was analyzed using high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) to identify its active compounds. Furthermore, the radical scavenging activities were evaluated for F-PHA. The cell viability and expression of procollagen type 1 and hyaluronic acid were investigated. Results: Changes in F-PHA represented the increase of lactobionic acid and lactic acid after fermentation. F-PHA increased radical scavenging activity in a dosedependent manner. After fermentation, F-PHA was confirmed to increase the expression of procollagen type 1 synthesis and hyaluronic acid without cytotoxicity. Conclusion: These results confirmed that F-PHA shows generally higher activities functional cosmetic material.

Metabolite and Elastase Activity Changes in Beach Rose (Rosa rugosa) Fruit and Seeds at Various Stages of Ripeness.

Rose hips are the fruits of the beach rose (Rosa rugosa). To determine the optimal harvest time and to obtain the maximum functional compounds, rose hips at various stages of ripeness (immature, early, mid, and late) were harvested, and the flesh tissue and seeds were separated. The rose hip flesh showed the highest total phenolic content at the mid-ripeness stage (8.45 ± 0.62 mg/g gallic acid equivalent concentration (dry weight)). The early-, mid-, and late-ripeness stages of rose hip flesh did not show significantly different 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl antioxidant capacities. The elastase inhibitory activity of the 95% ethanol extract from the rose hip seeds was highest at the mid-ripeness stage; however, the elastase inhibitory activity of the rose hip tissue was not significantly different from that of the seeds. Pathway analysis using MetaboAnalyst showed that sucrose, fructose, and glucose gradually increased as the fruit ripened. Ursolic acid was detected in the seeds but not in the flesh. Of the fatty acids, linoleic acid concentrations were highest in rose hip seeds, followed by linolenic acid, oleic acid, and palmitic acid. Fatty acids and ursolic acid might be the active compounds responsible for elastase inhibitory activity and can be utilized as a functional cosmetic material.

Analysis of Composition and Contents of Free Amino Acids and Free Sugars of Akebia quinata Fruit Extracts as Skin Care Cosmesutical Ingredients

This study analyzed pericarp of Akebia quinata fruit and hot water extract of seeds and 80% methanol extract to verify the effectiveness of utilizing functional cosmetic materials for skin care. 17 components of free amino acids were identified in pericarp and seeds. Both pericarp and seeds had the highest lysine content in hot water extracts and asparagine in 80% methanol extracts. Protein-free amino acid derivatives were identified in pericarp and seeds, each with 5 components. In the hot water extract, phosphoserine was the highest in pericarp and citrulline was the highest in seeds. In 80% methanol extract, carnosine was the most common in pericarp and citrulline was the highest in seeds. Analysis of the composition of free sugar identified frutose and glucose in pericarp and sucrose and maltose in seeds. As a result, when pericarp and seeds of Akebia quinata fruit are extracted with hot water and 80% methanol, free sugar and free amino acid derivatives are present, which is expected to be valuable as functional foods and nutritional cosmetics ingredients for skin beauty. Keywords: A. quinata fruit extract; Derivatives; Free amino acid; Free sugar; Skin care cosmetic