Finishing, in its widest sense, covers all processes which fabrics undergo after weaving or knitting. It is the responsibility of the finisher to remove processing oils and fibre lubricants, to colour the fabric, to develop the final appearance and handle, and to improve, where necessary, the performance characteristics of the fabric. In the simplest routine the fabric is scoured to remove oils and other impurities and to consolidate its structure, dyed or bleached, its surface fibres are removed by singeing or cutting, and then it is pressed. Some fabrics require special mechanical finishes such as calendering, embossing, milling, raising, or shrinking in order to develop a particular fabric characteristic. In all of these cases the chemical properties of the fabric, with the exception of added dyes, are those of the const i tuent fibre. The factors governing the flammability behaviour of fibres are complex, particularly when more than one fibre is present in the fabric. Blends of two fibres are common but some fabrics may contain four and five fibre types. All textile fibres consist of long chains of polymeric materials and the burning behaviour of the fibres is determined largely by the chemical properties of these materials. The behaviour of fabrics made from one fibre type to heat and flame is well documented. However, the flammability of fabrics made from two or more fibres generally cannot be predicted from the properties of the component fibres and only limited information on specific blends is available. This is because of the large number of conventional and flameretardant (F.R.) fibres available to the textile industry. At least 86 F.R. fibres alone, divided into 18 broad chemical categories, are available from fibre producers [ 1]. The situation is complicated further by the fact that during textile manufacture other polymeric materials, as oils, lubricants or polymers, can be applied to fibres to improve processing and fabric performance. When such materials are present on the fabric the burning behaviour of the fabric must be expected to change. The chemical nature of these additives is at least as diverse as those of the textile fibres and of the processes used to render them flame-retardant. However, despite the enormous effort directed to the development of F.R. fibres and finishes little work has been directed to the properties of multifibre fabrics and even less to the important area of compatibility of flame retardancy with additive textile finishes. In this paper the use of polymers in textile finishing operations is reviewed and the effects of dyeing, bleaching and polymer treatments on flammability behaviour are discussed. Some information on finishing blended fabrics is presented.
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