Fine Cloth Research Articles

How Langston Hughes Used the Blues

When Alfred Knopf published Fine Clothes to a Jew1 in 1927, Langston Hughes became one of the most innovative voices in American poetry and the first poet in the world to transform the idioms of blues and jazz into poetic verse. He himself was demonstrating what he had called for in The Negro Artist and the Racial Mountain, published in 1926. Hughes suggested that creative individualism should be the guiding esthetic value for the black artist. Speaking on behalf of his contemporaries of the Harlem Renaissance, Hughes proclaimed:

Thomas Cradock's Sermon on the Governance of Maryland's Established Church

T. ANNE's Church looked more like a barn than a place of worship. Only its 280 guinea organ received favorable comment from visitors. Around the edifice almost in [the] form of an 0 was an unpaved road. The rest of Annapolis was similarly unimpressive. It had a commanding view of the Chesapeake, but the town's bland architecture seemed to be awaiting the presence of William Buckland, whose craftsmanship would do much to make it the quaint city we know today.' Yet within that church was displayed on October 7, I753, all the pomp and circumstance colonial Maryland could offer. Attending services of the established church were the newly installed governor, Horatio Sharpe, the members of His Lordship's Council, and the delegates to the lower house of the General Assembly. As assembly sessions always brought the colony's social season to its peak, the wives and children of the gentry plus the city's tradesmen and artisans packed the small edifice. Since the governor and the assembly were meeting one another for the first time, everyone wore his finest clothes and practiced his best manners. It was certainly the time for an address of importance. To the pulpit came portly Thomas Cradock, A.M., rector of St. Thomas Parish, Baltimore County. Parson Cradock's sermon touched the core of Maryland society and government, it ran against the grain of proprietary privilege and the desires of the laity, and it opened wounds * Mr. Skaggs is a member of the Department of History, Bowling Green State University, Ohio.

Remarks on the Black Cloaks of the Ephebes

In a remarkably interesting paper on the Black Hunter and the Athenian ephebeia, Vidal-Naquet has given one or two examples of the use ofblackordarknessin connection with the ephebes. Whereas I think the main points of his argument sound, in these details there may be some misunderstanding about which I should like to make a brief comment.We are told by Xenophon: ‘οἱ οὖν περὶ τὸν Θηεραμένη παρεσκεύασαν ἀνθρώπους μέλανα ἱμάτια ἔχοντας καὶ ἐν χρῷ κεκαρμένους πολλοὺς ἐν ταύτῇ τῇ ἑορτῇ, ἴνα πρὸς τὴν ἐκκλησίαν ἤκοιεν, ὡς δὴ συγγενεῖς ὄντες τῶν ἀπολωλότων.’ The appearance of these men in black at a festival where the processionists at least, according to Istros, wore their finest clothes, is certainly odd at first glance, but I do not think we are entitled to draw Vidal-Naquet's conclusion that they had the appearance of ephebes.

Brandstrup

Brandstrup

EVIDENCES OF INDUSTRIAL GROWTH ON SOME FIFTEENTH-CENTURY MANORS

IT is a commonplace that at the close of the Middle Ages the English woollen industry, which by then held a position quite as important as the once famous industries of Flanders and Italy, possessed a rural character which sharply differentiated it from them. Indeed, despite a marked dispersion of cloth manufacture even in Flanders and Italy towards the end of the Middle Ages, the contrast between the predominantly rural character of the English industry and the urban character of that across the Channel could not fail to attract the attention of the observant traveller. 'In England', says the Frenchman in the Heralds' Debate, 'your clothiers dwel in great fermes abrode in the countrey, havyng howses with commodities lyke unto gentylmen, where aswel they make cloth and kepe husbandry, and also grasse and fede shepe and catell'.1 Industry, traditionally associated more especially with urban societies, with craft and with merchant gilds, now grew outside the walls of the chartered boroughs, where once it had flourished in these islands of immunity set in a feudal sea, outside even the little market towns, and within the framework of the manor.2 How, then, was the pattern of village life altered by the coming of industry? How did industrialists and artisans fit into the manorial order? Where were these 'great fermes abrode in the countrey'? And when did the growth occur? As yet we have all too few studies bearing on these problems. It may therefore be worth while to examine certain evidences of industrial growth in a region of England whose development at this time is well known to have been outstanding, and wholly rural in character, namely that of the Cotswolds, more particularly the Stroud Valley, and, not far off, the village of Castle Combe. By the late fifteenth century 'Stroudwaters' and 'Castlecombes' had become household words both in England and on the Continent as trade names for particular kinds of fine woollen cloth, much in demand among foreign buyers on the London market. Thus in 1487 a Hanseatic agent could discuss the purchase at Blackwell Hall of cloths 'well dyed and costly such as Bristols, Stroudwaters, Castlecombes and such like', contrasting them with various kinds of less high quality cloths on show there.3 Leaving Bristol aside for the moment, of the two places singled out here for their production of fine coloured cloth in the late fifteenth century, one-Castle Combe-had in the fourteenth century been a secluded village with some 55 tenants on the slow-moving By Brook in north-west Wiltshire; the other, Stroudwater, had, as its name implies, been not a village at all but a mere stretch of water flowing through

Galdos' Classical Scene in La de Bringas

ALTHOUGH many of Gald6s' novels are highly dramatic La de Bringas is not one of them. As a realistic analysis and exposition of the life of the government employee clase media, especially of its material and materialistic concerns, its social situation and condition, and its related moral problems, La de Bringas moves from the outset and through most of its course at a leisurely, not to say slow pace. Gald6s has seemed most desirous of presenting, against a broad and amply detailed social-economic background, a character study of a member of this society, his titular protagonist, Francisco Bringas' wife Rosalia. Especially does Gald6s' study deal with the moral decline of this woman, who, otherwise a good wife and mother, lets herself get caught in usurious debt in order to satisfy an irresistible craving for fine clothes, induced first by a wealthy relative's gifts, which Gald6s calls the manzana de Eva,' and continuously nurtured by her irresponsible but admired social arbiters and companions, especially the insolvent Milagros, Marquesa de Tellerfa. Gald6s follows Rosalia from the first temptation through many downward steps-some small, some large-of extravagance and folly, of envy and hypocrisy, deception and falsehood, a kind of intra-family embezzlement or theft, and finally of infidelity, all of them related to her unsuccessful efforts to reconcile her uncontrollable mania de lujo with her ever more insufficient means. In this descent Rosalia parallels the course of the larger, national ambiente, and in the end-in September, 1868-monarchical order and private morality are both overthrown. The novel is by no means devoid of tensions, conflicts, elements of surprise and suspense, nor even of dialogued scenes; but the moral fall has been gradual and the effect of these dramatic qualities is chiefly cumulative, the conversations serving mainly to communicate costumbres and more especially to reveal character. With her infidelity Bringas' wife has hit bottom and the story is, so far as objective data are concerned, all but over. But, ironically, the infidelity has not been rewarded, as Rosalia had expected, and the

Nepalesiske bloktryk

Nepalesiske bloktryk

A study of the effects of mesiodistal reduction of mandibular anterior teeth

The literature pertaining to mesiodistal reduction of mandibular anterior teeth was reviewed and only occasional references to the subject were found. 7, 11, 17 The latest dental anatomy texts were reviewed to obtain modern findings on enamel substance. 2, 12–14, 18 Enamel spindles and tufts run approximately one-third the distance from the dentinoenamel junction through the enamel, while lamellae run all the way through (Figs. 1, 2, and 3). The matrix of enamel surrounds the enamel rods and prisms and can be considered as extended all the way through the enamel. Spindles, tufts, lamellae, and matrix essentially are organic materials. 12–14 Enamel matures from childhood eruption until adult life by the organic substance of enamel becoming permeated from the external surface inward with calcium salts from the saliva. 4–6 The late literature on caries disclosed that the organic material of enamel undoubtedly plays an important part in the carious process, in many instances being the initiating and penetrating factor in the process. 3–6, 15 The difference between tight contact and loose contact was found to be 0.10 to 0.12 mm. and the difference between tight contact and completely clear contact, 0.23 to 0.25 mm. In stripping, if a separator was not employed, the amount removed was directly related to the thickness of the strip being used, caused by binding against the next tooth as it was being drawn through. If less than 0.10 mm. was to be removed or that amount divided between both teeth making contact, it was necessary to use a separator to permit free handling of the strip. The average thickness of enamel at the contact points in adult mandibular central incisors measured was found to be 0.59 mm., in mandibular lateral incisors, 0.66 mm., and mandibular cuspids, 0.82 mm. No definite correlation was found between tooth size and enamel thickness at the contact points. The largest tooth did not always have the thickest enamel but, generally speaking, the larger teeth had more enamel thickness than the smaller teeth. A step-by-step technique was given for mesiodistal reduction of mandibular anterior teeth. The roughness of enamel after the use of metal strips was demonstrated (Fig. 9), which points to the necessity of polishing with fine cloth strips in order to leave an acceptable surface.

XVIII. Account of a Flag representing the Introduction of the Caste of Chalias or Cinnamon-peelers, into Ceylon

I beg leave to send you an account of the painting upon cloth which I presented to the Society some time ago, and which is a fac-simile of a very ancient banner of the caste of Chalias, or cinnamon-peelers, on the island of Ceylon.The present numbers and importance of these people, render their history a subject of curious research. As the Cingalese inhabitants of Ceylon were, previous to the thirteenth century, ignorant of the art of weaving fine cloth, which was then known to the Hindu inhabitants of the peninsula of India, the kings of Kandy offered great rewards to any of their subjects who would bring over from the peninsula some weavers for the purpose of introducing that art into Ceylon.

XXI. A report of the state of his majesty's flock of finewoolled Spanish sheep during the years 1800 and 1801; with some account of the progress that has been made towards the introduction of that valuable breed into those parts of the United Kingdom where fine clothing wools are grown with advantage

(1804). XXI. A report of the state of his majesty's flock of finewoolled Spanish sheep during the years 1800 and 1801; with some account of the progress that has been made towards the introduction of that valuable breed into those parts of the United Kingdom where fine clothing wools are grown with advantage. The Philosophical Magazine: Vol. 18, No. 70, pp. 140-145.

VI. A project for extending the breed of fine-woolled Spanish sheep, now in the possession of his Majesty, into all parts of Great Britain, where the growth of fine clothing wools is found to be profitable

VI. <i>A project for extending the breed of fine-woolled Spanish sheep, now in the possession of his Majesty, into all parts of Great Britain, where the growth of fine clothing wools is found to be profitable</i>