Fashion Design Research Articles

High-end fashion as a social phenomenon: Exploring the perceptions of designers and consumers

Grounded on the social constructionist theory, this paper intends to compare the perceptions of the realities of high-end consumers and fashion designers on high-end brands. The main aim is to understand how the perception of luxury brands is socially constructed by designers and consumers and to explore the impact of the social interaction, specifically, the designers' realities impacting consumers' realities.The research consists of two studies. Study 1 comprised sixteen interviews with worldwide high-end fashion designers, while Study 2 considered three consumer samples (A) consumer interviews (B) consumers' tweets (n = 145,986) specifically on sixteen high-end fashion brands, and (C) consumer online questionnaire (n = 330). We found that high-end fashion designers had more negative (less positive) sentiments compared to the consumers. Designers defined different characteristics that comprise luxury brands. They tend to classify their brand category lower than the consumers. Corroborating the social constructionist theory, we found that the value of high-end brands is constructed by the designers' and consumers' interactions. Consumers gave lower value to a luxury brand if they knew that the designers were unsatisfied and critical of their work, compared to when they were satisfied and confident about it. Therefore, high-end fashion brand managers should consider the different realities of designers and consumers and their interaction in the strategic planning process to ensure designers are satisfied with their work and aligned with the brand's values and image to maintain its luxurious status and appeal to consumers.

Applying the SITAM Protocol in Fashion Design and Controlling the Industrial Engineering Model for Egyptian Garments

Applying the SITAM Protocol in Fashion Design and Controlling the Industrial Engineering Model for Egyptian Garments

Activating creativity in fashion shows for innovative fashion Designs Inspired by Traditional Costumes in Saudi Arabia

Activating creativity in fashion shows for innovative fashion Designs Inspired by Traditional Costumes in Saudi Arabia

Content-based fabric recommendation system integrating image and text information

The increasing popularity of e-commerce and online fashion platforms has led to a growing demand for effective fabric recommendation systems. Choosing the suitable fabric is crucial to achieving desired aesthetic outcomes, ensuring product quality, and enhancing user satisfaction in the fashion design and textile manufacturing industries. Although our research group has made significant progress in fabric retrieval, we have encountered several challenges in practical collaborations with industry partners. These challenges include users’ difficulty expressing their preferences and the lack of personalization in fabric retrieval. We proposed a content-based fabric recommendation system that combines image and text information to address these challenges. Our approach employed various methods to extract hand-crafted features, such as image color and texture, to characterize the visual communication of fabrics. We combined this with text information to provide a more comprehensive fabric representation. By mining user preferences and employing personalized recommendation algorithms, our system delivered personalized fabric recommendations to cater to individual needs. Experimentation with comparison texts, colors, and textures separately or together. According to the assessment results, the highest F1 value of 83% can be achieved when the color, texture, and text combine with the color: texture: text = 1:1:1 and the filter value = 2.2. Precision and recall rates are also 83% at this point. Our proposed fabric recommendation system is useful and efficient.

Ready to Wear Semi Couture Style Dragon Kamasan Puppet Design for Adult Women's Evening Party Clothing

Bali has a basic philosophy whose inspiration comes from the comos-theos-antropos aging by integrating the teachings of Balinese Hinduism-Balinese nature and Balinese people as the basic orientation in all ideas and cultural artworks, resulting in a special attraction in each of its artworks. The data collection method was carried out by observation, interviews, and documentation, as well as design design using the Corel Draw 2020 design program. The research resulted in six ready-to-wear semi-couture fashion designs for adult women's evening parties. This fashion collection is named Reminiscence which means lifting the roots of local Balinese culture, namely the Kamasan Wayang dragon. These six designs are designed using shimmer silk, Balinese woven, and tulle. Kamasan puppet designs are applied to different positions in each design. The first group design in the first design, the Kamasan puppet dragon design position was applied to the front position of the chest circling back to the front pelvis. The second design position of the Kamasan puppet dragon design on woven cloth is tucked around the waist like a Balinese dancer's fashion shawl. The third design positions the dragon head design on the front chest fit. The second group of designs in the first design positions the Kamasan puppet dragon design on the elongated woven fabric. The second design scraped the position of the elongated design. Design the third design position on the chest fit. Fashion design is the dress for all six designs. The design character of the first group is feminine sexy and the design character of the second group is feminine elegant. Dress variations are bolero, obi, and blazer.

Transforming perspectives on gender through imagined futures: A speculative design inquiry

This paper will present a second-year Fashion Design Theory project, ‘Imagining Gender Equality in 100 Years’. The project outcomes were based on the critical design approach of speculative design (SD), exploring the intersectional issues of gender relevant to a South African context. SD thrives on imagination to create scenarios that change perspectives, beliefs, and values related to social problems. The following questions were posed to the students in developing the project guidelines. Firstly, what will the change in values, beliefs, and attitudes related to issues of gender look like in the future? And how can students use design to imagine spaces in the present for discussion and debate about alternative ways of being in an imagined future? With the application of action research, the paper discusses and analyses a selection of student projects completed in 2020 and 2021. In doing this, the paper aims to reflect on the transformation of a design theory assessment by applying critical design approaches culminating in creative and conceptual outcomes for complex life problems. In addition, reflections and lessons learnt on the blended teaching and learning methods amidst Covid-19 will be imparted.

Urban approach to design in various aspects of design

This article discusses in detail the concept of an urban approach to design in various aspects of design. The design issues associated with the urban lifestyle, as its integral part, urban structure are considered. 10 principles of modern urbanism are considered. The urban approach to design includes consideration of the urban environment as a whole and taking into account its features when creating new objects. One of the important aspects of design in an urban environment is space planning taking into account the principles of urbanism. Many aspects of design take into account the principles of urbanism in full, some partially. Urban environment design and fashion design strive to create a comfortable environment for a person, following an urban approach. Various fields of design, such as urban environment design, graphic and industrial design, as well as fashion design have a common goal - to create functional and aesthetically attractive objects. Designers in all areas must take into account the needs and preferences of users, as well as technical and economic constraints.

Inspiration from hyperbolic paraboloid folding for clothing design

PurposeThis study aims to increase the novelty of clothing design and fabric texture. The element library that can be used for design is systematically summarized. The element database can also be continuously filled according to the existing logic to realize the diversity of design. Improve the theory of fashion design, expand the designer's design ideas and improve design efficiency. Clear design steps and logic can help students and machines learn the design process and promote the development of intelligent design. And verify the feasibility of the simulation software to assist pleated clothing design.Design/methodology/approachFirstly, according to the logical framework of origami theory, different innovative designs and combined designs are made for the basic units of hyperbolic paraboloid, and the element library that can be used for design is systematically summarized. This database can also be continuously filled according to the existing logic to realize the diversity of design. Secondly, it summarizes three methods of pleated element filling clothing – uniform filling method, the irregular filling method and geometric addition method – that improve the theory of fashion design, expand the designer's design ideas and improve design efficiency. Clear design steps and logic can help students and machines learn the design process and promote the development of intelligent design. Finally, the virtual software is used to simulate the effect of pleated clothing, and the three-dimensional simulation software 3dclo is used to make an empirical study on the application of hyperbolic paraboloid origami in clothing pleated design to verify the feasibility of the simulation software to assist pleated clothing design.FindingsThe theoretical results of hyperbolic paraboloid origami are collected and arranged to establish the element library of hyperbolic paraboloid origami. The results expand the designer's design ideas and auxiliary design technology and improve the design efficiency using a sample of hyperbolic paraboloid fabric to verify its practicability and three-dimensional clothing simulation software for exploring the design. The design rules of hyperbolic paraboloid clothing and the realization method of fabric are summarized, including the expansion and combing of elements, the application of size and shape and the method of combination.Research limitations/implicationsOwing to the hyperbolic paraboloid origami’s length shrinkage, the loose computation of clothing requires targeted computation. This paper solely applies a paper model for estimating the shrinkage, and then we tend to subsequently explore the way to precisely compute the porosity, to determine the existing differences in the two-dimensional shrinkage of hyperbolic paraboloid creases of varying materials and to know if the clothing after large-scale production is capable of reaching the anticipated value.Practical implicationsThe exploration of this experiment brings a new 3D experiment process to the design process.Social implicationsThis experiment brings new possibilities for the development of virtual fitting and virtual display in the industry.Originality/valueThis study combines hyperbolic paraboloid origami and clothing and combs and expands the unit with logical thinking to expand the designer's design ideas.

Penerapan Model Pembelajaran Project Based Learning Pembuatan Busana Industri (Grading Rok) untuk Meningkatkan Hasil Belajar Siswa Kelas XI Tata Busana SMK Negeri 3 Pamekasan

Project based learning is a learning method that uses projects/activities as media. Students carry out exploration, assessment, interpretation, synthesis and information to produce various forms of learning outcomes. The objectives of this research are (1) To determine the application of the project based learning model to making skirt grading patterns, (2) To determine the response of class XI students at SMK Negeri 3 Pamekasan to learning to make skirt grading patterns using the project based learning method, (3) To find out the learning outcomes of class XI students at SMK Negeri 3 Pamekasan after implementing learning using the project based learning method in making skirt grading patterns. The type of research applied is classroom action research (CAR). The research was conducted at SMK Negeri 3 Pamekasan with 31 students in class XI Fashion Design 1 consisting of 30 women and 1 boy. Class XI Fashion Design 2 has 34 students consisting of 34 women and 0 men at SMK Negeri 3 Pamekasan. The data collection methods used were (1) observation, (2) student learning outcomes tests. The research instruments used were (1) observation sheet, (2) test sheet. The data analysis technique uses quantitative descriptive analysis. The research results showed (1) Teacher activity in cycle 1 obtained a score of (70.6%) and experienced an increase in cycle 2 (82.9%) which was very good, (2) student activity in cycle 1 obtained a score of (70.8%) and experienced an increase in cycle 2 (83.8%), the increase in score was declared successful, (3) Student learning outcomes in cognitive, affective and psychomotor assessments from cycle 1 to cycle 2 experienced an increase with the completeness score reaching a total of (97%) which can be categorized as very good.

Social4Fashion: An intelligent expert system for forecasting fashion trends from social media contents

The fashion field is continually expanding and evolving, and social media play a significant role in shaping current fashion trends through the influence of online personalities, such as influencers. As a result, fashion designers often turn to social media to gain insights into the latest trends and draw inspiration, while in the past they used to physically visit fashion districts. To automate and speed up this process, an expert system is much needed; thus, Social4Fashion has been created, an end-to-end framework that leverages deep learning-based techniques in order to support creatives in their research and decision-making process, with the final goal of analyzing and predicting trends. This system employs several steps, starting with the automatic data collection from Instagram, using hashtags provided by domain experts. Next, retrieved images are filtered to remove non-fashion related pictures, leaving only those pertaining to the fashion area for further processing. Then, to obtain more specific information about the images, the handbags present (if any) are detected and classified, based on their type; finally, dominant colors of the handbags are retrieved through clustering on the images. All the data collected with this system are then stored and analyzed via user-friendly dashboards, created with the objective of highlighting relevant information, in order to perform analysis on current and future fashion trends. Results show the effectiveness of the proposed system, with an accuracy of 97% (95% confidence interval 0.95–1) for the fashion image classification and a mAP of 0.77 (95% confidence interval 0.73–0.82) for the handbag detection, which makes it suitable for fashion domain analysis. Also, as a result of this work, a novel fashion-related dataset has been made available to the research community. This system can greatly improve the way fashion trends are analyzed, and allow for more efficient and effective design processes in the future.

The application of hierarchical perception technology based on deep learning in 3D fashion design

In recent years, 3D fashion design has been relied on for improving attire fashion, design, and presentation with fewer flaws and better visualization. This aids consumers in providing visualized recommendations on modifications, suggestions, and customized attire designs. Considering the influence of automation and intelligent processing in the fashion designing industry, it introduces a Flaw Detection Method in 3D Representation (FDM-3DR) to reduce frequent modifications. The proposed method visualizes the design in three dimensions for its completeness and flawless representation. Based on the consumer recommendation, the lack of design flaws in the representation is identified, and multiple detections are presented. This is required to improve consumer satisfaction and the multi-dimensional projection between flaws and complete attire products. The learning is trained using the fixable representation, and therefore, the previous unsuitable designs are repelled by different recommendations. This improves the design adaptability, recommendation ratio, and representation ratio. Besides, it reduces the recommendation time and flaws.

From Haute Couture to Fast Fashion: The Fashion Industry and its Implications in the Realm of Law

Although it is frequently treated casually, the fashion industry is in fact an all-pervasive and ubiquitous industry. The clothing industry is a vast global enterprise that deals with designing, manufacturing, distributing, marketing, retailing, advertising, and promoting all types of apparel for men, women, and children. This includes everything from high-end designer fashion to everyday clothing like sweatpants. The industry is worth billions of dollars and encompasses everything from the most luxurious haute couture to casual wear. The industry has thrived on its own through all the glitz and glamour. However, the blatant yet complex issues and nuances that comprise the industry need to be addressed, and in order for them to be addressed, consumers need to take cognizance of not just the present issues, but the industry in its entirety as well. This research paper delves into the transformation of the fashion industry from the traditional form of haute couture to the emergence of fast fashion. The paper starts by making the reader conscious of the industry and its alarming effects on various aspects of our society. The paper then discusses the rise of fast fashion, characterized by rapid production, mass consumption, and affordability. These diverging paradigms have not only transformed consumer behavior but have also posed legal challenges to frameworks governing intellectual property, labor rights, and environmental sustainability.

Theorizing the Third Generation of Fashion Designers: The Case of Pharrell Williams at Louis Vuitton

This article delves into the implications of celebrity-driven fashion brands in the 21st century. Initially, it traces the evolution of the first generations of traditional fashion designers from the 19th and 20th centuries, highlighting how designers serve as a simplified reference point, as they aggregate the intricate processes of fashion creation under a public persona. Subsequently, employing a close reading and visual analysis methodology, I examine the case of musician Pharrell Williams in his role as creative director at Louis Vuitton. I argue that celebrities taking on roles as fashion designers represent a new generation in this field. This shift is an inevitable culmination of the “celebrification” that traditional designers have undergone over the years. I further argue that celebrity-driven brands introduce a diverse offering in terms of taste, experience and image. By integrating fashion with entertainment, celebrities enable brands like Louis Vuitton to reorganize as a “Cultural Maison.” These celebrities, outsiders penetrating high-end fashion, exploit the so-called democratic and hybrid logic of social media, and gradually overshadowing the cultural significance of traditional designers, pushing them behind the scenes. This shift challenges and may even redefine our understanding of what constitutes the cultural role of fashion designers.

Textile-Based Adsorption Sensor via Mixed Solvent Dyeing with Aggregation-Induced Emission Dyes.

This study demonstrates a novel methodology for developing a textile-based adsorption sensor via mixed solvent dyeing with aggregation-induced emission (AIE) dyes on recycled fabrics. AIE dyes were incorporated into the fabrics using a mixed solvent dyeing method with a co-solvent mixture of H2O and organic solvents. This method imparted unique fluorescence properties to fabrics, altering fluorescence intensity or wavelength based on whether the AIE dye molecules were in an isolated or aggregated state on the fabrics. The precise control of the H2O fraction to organic solvent during dyeing was crucial for influencing fluorescence intensity and sensing characteristics. These dyed fabrics exhibited reactive thermochromic and vaporchromic properties, with changes in fluorescence intensity corresponding to variations in temperature and exposure to volatile organic solvents (VOCs). Their superior characteristics, including a repetitive fluorescence switching property and resistance to photo-bleaching, enhance their practicality across various applications. Consequently, the smart fabrics dyed with AIE dye not only find applications in clothing and fashion design but demonstrate versatility in various fields, extending to sensing temperature, humidity, and hazardous chemicals.

Fashion and Authors’ Moral Rights

Abstract Due to the judgments Cofemel and Brompton from the Court of Justice of the European Union (CJEU), it is certain that the standard of copyright protection for works of applied art is the same as for any other work categories. However, the harmonising effect of these judgments only extends to the author’s economic rights, and not their moral interests. The moral rights of authors have not been popular topics in legal literature concerning copyright and works of applied art. This raises the question of to what extent moral rights apply to these works, which many national copyright laws used to discriminate against prior to the guidance from the CJEU. This multidisciplinary article delves into the complex relationship between moral rights and works of applied art in the specific context of fashion design. It appears that moral rights are absent from the standard practice in the fashion sector. This is evident, inter alia, in the fact that typically only renowned designers are attributed as authors. The article notes that there is no legally valid reason for fashion houses to overlook designers’ right of attribution. The right of integrity, however, has much less practical significance in the fashion sector. This article suggests the correct approach to moral rights in the fashion sector. The focus is on the European author’s rights tradition. The moral rights tradition of the Nordic states is used as a reference point because it allows for the consideration of the realities in different creative sectors without disrespecting authors’ personal interests.

The characteristics of contemporary Indian fashion designs using traditional handicraft - Focusing on Sabyasachi Mukherjee, Manish Malhotra, and Ritu Kumar -

The characteristics of contemporary Indian fashion designs using traditional handicraft - Focusing on Sabyasachi Mukherjee, Manish Malhotra, and Ritu Kumar -

A study of Chinese fashion design copyright protection cases

A study of Chinese fashion design copyright protection cases

An Evaluative Study on Challenges in Quality Assurance in Fashion Design Courses in India

An Evaluative Study on Challenges in Quality Assurance in Fashion Design Courses in India

Comprehensive Analysis of Li Ethnic Clothing Based on Five Major Dialects and Its Application in Modern Fashion Design

Abstract This research aims to undertake a comprehensive analysis of Li ethnic clothing rooted in five major dialects and investigates its relevance in modern fashion design. With the progression of contemporary society, traditional Li ethnic attire has progressively lost societal attention, resulting in fewer individuals proactively engaging with it. However, can infusing the distinctive features of Li ethnic clothing from these five major dialects into contemporary fashion design rekindle an allure for this heritage? Through diverse channels and approaches, this study endeavors to address this inquiry and illuminate often-overlooked facets. By judiciously melding traditional Li ethnic clothing with contemporary fashion design, we can attain objectives that are more rational, meaningful, and valuable.

Animalism in the Design of Clothes of the ХХ and Early XXI Centuries

The article presents an overview and systematisation of fashion design projects using animalistic motifs. The purpose of the study is to identify the manifestations of animalistic images in costume and the differences in their meanings in different historical periods. The research methodology is based on the application of methods of source, art, aesthetic, structural and compositional analysis. The scientific novelty lies in highlighting the stages of animalism development in the twentieth – early twenty-first centuries and identifying its main manifestations in costume. The results of the study are based on empirical material from designers and fashion houses that actively used and developed animalism in their work. Conclusions. As a result of the study, we conclude that there are various ways of manifesting animalism in fashion design, from copying animal images entirely to introducing their individual parts into the design or using photographs and artistic images. And while in the early twentieth century, costumes used mostly elements of animal skin, fur and feathers, and exotic animals and birds emphasised the status of the elite strata of society, with the development of technology and the spread of mass production of clothing, imitation gradually became popular. The destruction of the natural environment and the dominance of the artificial one led to the spread of fashion inspired by wildlife. Gradually, a style direction in fashion design was formed, which is now considered «fantasy classics». Over time, animalistic motifs have become visual carriers of «eco-fashion» and «eco-consciousness», reminding us of the need for significant transformations in the global consciousness of humanity. The flourishing of animalism in recent decades reflects the socio-cultural trends in society. The symbolism and interpretation of animalistic images in costume design reflects the care and desire to preserve the natural heritage in a world that is increasingly influenced by technological development.