Fashion Week Research Articles

Sustainability Practices and Implications of Fashion Brands at the Vegan Fashion Week

Sustainability Practices and Implications of Fashion Brands at the Vegan Fashion Week

Analisis Wacana Kritis Model Teun A. van Dijk pada Surat Kabar E-Paper Harian Analisa dengan Tajuk “Citayam Fashion Week Kaum Muda Pinggiran, Duta Local Pride”

This study aims to describe the editorial of “Citayam Fashion Week Young People, Local Pride Ambassadors as seen from the critical discourse theory of Teun A.Van Dijk in newspapers. The method used is descriptive method. The results obtained in this study are that there are 3 macro structures, namely 1 delection, 1 selection, 1 integration or construction. The title also has 2 superstructures consisting of titles, leads and story schemes consisting of situations and comments. The results of this study also have a micro structure (semantics) which consists of the background. details, intentions, and presuppositions. Microstructure II (syntax) consists of active and passive sentences, the use of distinguishing and contrasting coherence, and third person plural pronouns. Microstructure III (stylistic) consists of foreign language vocabulary that is currently widely used, microstructure IV (rhetorical) in this heading consists of graphics, metaphors, and expressions. This research is expected to be a reference for future researchers.

Zhong Dang Pan and Gerald M. Kosicki Framing Model Analysis on Citayam Fashion Week News in Tempo.co and Tirto.id Online Media

The goal of this research was to determine the analysis of online media framing Tempo.co and Tirto.id regarding Citayam Fashion Week news. In addressing these issues, the author employs a constructivist approach, which views discourse as a result of the construction of social reality. This research is classified as library research, with data collected by citing and analyzing representative literature with relevance to the problems discussed, followed by reviewing and concluding. Following a discussion of framing analysis of Citayam Fashion Week news using the Zhongdang Pan and Gerald framing method. M. Kosicki. The author discovered that, in terms of framing devices (Syntax, Script, Thematic, and Rhetorical), Tempo.co in constructing social reality, particularly news about Citayam Fashion Week, was quite neutral in presenting news based on information obtained from sources, whereas online media Tirto was quite aggressive. id is quite positive in its coverage of Citayam Fashion Week, presenting and emphasizing all of the informants' opinions.

ANALYSIS OF ENGLISH COMPOUND WORDS IN AN ARTTICLE OF LIFE AND STYLE COLUMN

In a text, the kinds of words are found in many different word-formations. Therefore, every language shows new words such as inflection, derivation, and compounding. However, those methods cannot be used generally when it comes to texts. It can be determined whether a word is a noun or a phrase by a number of factors. As a result, this research will provide precise information about how compounding is used in the text. The research objectives are (1) What kinds of compound words found in the life and style columns of the Jakarta Globe article? (2) How the English compound words described in the life and style columns of the Jakarta Globe article? Further, this research employs a qualitative approach as suggested by Creswell (2014). The data were taken from an article in one of English newspapers in Indonesia entitled "Designers of the Runaway as Jakarta Fashion Weeks Takes off" from the life and style column in Jakarta Globe. The finding of the research showed that there were two types of compound words that found in the article entitled "Designers of the Runaway as Jakarta Fashion Weeks Takes off" from the life and style column in the Jakarta Globe. Those are exocentric and endocentric compound words. Besides, noun compound, verb compound, and adjective compound are the lexical categories that were produced by the process of compounding.

Istanbul as a "City of Design"

Istanbul as a "City of Design"

Re-Shaping Innovations in the Contemporary Fashion Show: Emerging Aesthetics and the Rising International-Based Chinese Designer Collective

The past five years have seen a rapidly rising “new wave” of design power created by Chinese designers who are devoted to showcasing their works within the legitimate European fashion week system – which includes the “Big Four” fashion weeks in New York, London, Milan, and Paris – to upgrade their cultural status as Chinese design collectives. In addition to showing their collections with a high-end design standard, this group of visual innovators are constantly seeking aesthetic innovations when showing fashion and have gradually been changing and influencing the emerging generation of international-based Chinese designers by displaying and showing fashion at international fashion weeks. This paper integrates and investigates the new aesthetics in fashion visualization brought forward by a collective of emerging international-based Chinese designers who have gradually expanded their cultural influences and re-shaped innovations in contemporary fashion shows within the current global fashion ecosystem. These new aesthetics feature fashion’s new affinity with immersive physical theater, a type of avant-garde post-dramatic theatre, when being shown on a global stage. Furthermore, the rising institutions at Shanghai Fashion Week have been producing and advocating for the formation of international-based Chinese designer collectives to experiment with new aesthetics via multiple forms at London and Shanghai Fashion Weeks between 2017 and 2020, both physically and digitally. This has led to systematic changes and innovations in the global fashion cultural system, in terms of both forming and shaping a new aesthetic identity of Chinese designers within the global fashion system.

Space exploration inspiration for fashion styling and design in six decades since 1960: A review

Launch date of the first artificial satellite Sputnik 1 was on October 4, 1957, therefore it was commonly considered to be the starting year of the space age. Being inspired by the rapid developments in space and universe explorations, André Courrèges, Pierre Cardin and many other designers opened the frontier territory of the space-age era in the fashion community. From 1964, André Courrèges extensively used the white and silver metallic colours which soon became the definition of aesthetics at that time and was named Godfather of the space-age designer. On the other hand, Pierre Cardin demonstrated his early space-age work at the Paris Fashion Week in 1968 and was called the pioneer of the space-age fashion designer. For the six decades up to now, at least 15 fashion designers launched the so-called “Fashion communities’ interplanetary mission” in different years: André Courrèges (1964), Mary Quant (1965), Reed Crawford (1966, specialized in hat design), Pierre Cardin (1968), Paco Rabanne (1968), Thierry Mugler (1979), Issey Miyake (1995), Alexander McQueen (1995), Nicolas Ghesquière (2007), Hussein Chalayan (2007), Christopher Kane (2011), Raf Simons (2014), Donatella Versace (2016), Karl Lagerfeld (2017), Nicolas Ghesquière (second time in 2019, as the artistic director of Louis Vuitton) and Iris Van Herpen (2019). The purpose of this paper is to systematically and methodically review the inspiration and significant influence of space exploration and universe discovery on the fashion aesthetics, styling and design in six decades from 1960 to the current year. Major creative ideas included new colours such as silver, new materials such as metallic, new styling such as flying saucer, new patterns such as totems, and the use of new technologies such as 3-dimensional (3D) printing, with the most important considerations of noble, elegancy and aesthetics. Also, the feedback influence of the space-age fashion on the new generation SpaceX and Boeing suits is discussed.

Competing climate spectacles in the amplified public space

The climate change debate is finding new expressions through political protests and demonstrations, during which a plurality of climate narratives emerges. While protests such as Extinction Rebellion have had a strong physical manifestation, involving many people showing up in concrete locations, they have also been facilitated and mediated virtually. In this paper, we examine the spectacle generated when divergent discourses on climate change compete for attention in spaces that are simultaneously urban and virtual. The paper is based on empirical evidence from events surrounding London Fashion Week 2019, focusing on the political mobilization by Extinction Rebellion Boycott Fashion (XRBF) and other groups. Discussing this changing nature of urban protest spectacle, we point to the emergence of an ‘amplified public space’ shaped at the intersection of material and virtual spaces of the city. Both the fashion industry and XRBF employ techniques of spectacle in their strategies to advance their respective climate change and sustainability narratives. We argue that XRBF, in particular, has managed to influence the climate change debate by strategically staging spectacular protest events that are both facilitated and played out in virtual space.

Entrepreneurship, Local Fashion, Tourism Development, and the Hippie Movement: The Case of Adlib Fashion (Ibiza, Spain)

On the island of Ibiza, the sixties and seventies saw a touristic boom and the rise of hippies. The hippie presence ended shortly after, but left various elements considered to be direct legacies. Among these elements, it is worth highlighting the creation of a local fashion inspired by traditional clothing and hippies. This fashion was called Adlib and has its appearance date in 1971 with the first Ibiza Fashion Week. In this paper, a case study is carried out, supported by interviews, which delves into the historical evolution and the current situation of Adlib Ibiza fashion and the businesses under this umbrella brand. Adlib fashion has always had more relevance as a tool for promoting and differentiating tourism than as an independent economic sector. Even so, it is a small sector made up of small or micro businesses created by entrepreneurs from the island who seek to market their designs. Unfortunately, many businesses fail shortly after their opening and do not survive the retirement of their founder, due to the strong link of these businesses to the designs and creations of their owner. The evolution of the brand and its businesses undermines any optimism in future trends, and possibly suggests a slow decline.

Endek to be an International Clothes of G20 Summit

Endek, as one of the Balinese woven cloths, has existed since the reign of King Dalem Waturenggong in Gelgel, Klungkung Regency. Since the 16th century, people in Bali have made their traditional cloth using hand-operated machine looms and other simple tools. The name Endek derives from gendekan or ngendek, which means silent or unchanged in color. Economic recovery efforts are a priority for the Province of Bali during the COVID-19 pandemic. Including increasing the value of Balinese cultural heritage, Endek woven fabrics. The government carries out massive promotions through various activities, exhibitions, to the promotion of Endek fabrics by international designer Christian Dior at Paris fashion week in 2020. In addition to having aesthetic value, Endek woven fabrics have high economic value for improving the welfare of weavers to SMEs. In the G20 Summit event in the province of Bali, the government proposed that state delegates attending the G20 Summit (KTT) wear clothes made from Endek or traditional Balinese woven fabrics. Later, the Balinese people would also get the opportunity to achieve a great economic benefit from the international event.

BUSANA MUSLIM UNTUK GENERASI ALPHA PADA EVENT JAKARTA MUSLIM FASHION WEEK 2021/2022

Muslim clothing has provisions for Muslim clothing in accordance with Islamic law, so that designing Muslim clothing cannot be separated from these regulations. This brings a challenge for fashion designers, to develop Muslim fashion designs that follow fashion trends but still adhere to the rules of Islamic law. The Jakarta Muslim Fashion Week 2021/2022 event is an event that accommodates fashion designers to develop their abilities in Muslim fashion in Indonesia. One of the works at the event was inspired by a concept, namely, the alpha generation. The alpha generation is the latest generation created by Mark McCrindle, for children born in 2010-2025. It is predicted that this generation has different characteristics from the previous generation. This discovery was then used as inspiration in the creation of women's Muslim clothing, to welcome the alpha generation based on the predicted characteristics of the alpha generation. The research on this work uses the method of observation, literature study and exploration. The observation method is carried out on the object of research which is a concept in the creation of works, namely the alpha generation. The literature study method collects data through various sources related to research. Meanwhile, in the exploration method, researchers conducted an in-depth exploration of the definition and character of the alpha generation. Based on the results of research on the concept of alpha generation, several data were generated which were summarized into a mind map, then selected a few words as keywords and made a moodboard. Based on the moodboard, alternative designs were designed and produced 6 ready-to-wear Muslim fashion designs with urban, modern, futuristic and comfortable styles. Of the 6 alternative designs, only 2 designs were selected for later realization. Both clothes are made with materials that have been adapted to the characteristics of the alpha generation who are open-minded, creative, adaptable, optimistic and high mobility.

Rakuten Fashion Week Tokyo Fall/Winter 2021, Tokyo, 15–21 March 2021

Rakuten Fashion Week Tokyo Fall/Winter 2021, Tokyo, 15–21 March 2021

Digital Cities: Investigating the Image of Lagos as a Fashion City Online Through Web Search Queries

In the digital era, cities have to manage their brand identities on both offline and online platforms. Digital engagement has become an increasingly important strategy for cities to reach out to both locals and visitors as the internet has become a gateway linking billions of people to global careers, investments, tourism and products. Global cities are positioning their brands through elements such as fashion, music and vacation attractions to stand out even online. In recent times, the city of Lagos has been described as an emerging global fashion capital and is becoming more popular for its fashion activities and personalities. This study examines if the online image of the city on the google web search engine aligns with the city’s image as an emerging fashion capital. This research employs the content analysis method, in investigating certain keywords on the google search engine. Results from this study reveal that information regarding the fashion industry in Lagos city is mostly limited to fashion weeks. It is recommended that stakeholders in the Lagos fashion industry increase visibility on online platforms including the google web search engine, which is a key portal for global information. Keywords: keyword search, fashion capitals, Lagos city, digital cities, web search queries DOI: 10.7176/NMMC/99-03 Publication date: October 31 st 2021

Materialising Gender-fluidity through Fashion

As the final year comprehensive design project for the Honours Degree of Bachelor of Design, Department of Integrated Design, Faculty of Architecture, University of Moratuwa, I have selected a project which is based upon my own clothing brand. It is an emerging ready-to-wear clothing brand based in Sri Lanka, which was launched in August 2020 through the Colombo Fashion Week named “HARID”. Currently, HARID retails at the Design Collective store in Colombo for a consumer group based upon it. The brand philosophy of HARID is to challenge gender-related stereotypical concepts. As the brand identity, HARID uses heritage craft practices.

Fashion informatics of the Big 4 Fashion Weeks using topic modeling and sentiment analysis

This study used several informatics techniques to analyze consumer-driven social media data from four cities (Paris, Milan, New York, and London) during the 2019 Fall/Winter (F/W) Fashion Week. Analyzing keywords using a semantic network analysis method revealed the main characteristics of the collections, celebrities, influencers, fashion items, fashion brands, and designers connected with the four fashion weeks. Using topic modeling and a sentiment analysis, this study confirmed that brands that embodied similar themes in terms of topics and had positive sentimental reactions were also most frequently mentioned by the consumers. A semantic network analysis of the tweets showed that social media, influencers, fashion brands, designers, and words related to sustainability and ethics were mentioned in all four cities. In our topic modeling, the classification of the keywords into three topics based on the brand collection’s themes provided the most accurate model. To identify the sentimental evaluation of brands participating in the 2019 F/W Fashion Week, we analyzed the consumers’ sentiments through positive, neutral, and negative reactions. This quantitative analysis of consumer-generated social media data through this study provides insight into useful information enabling fashion brands to improve their marketing strategies.

Identifying and ranking new product factors of fashion industry (case study Iranian menswear brand)

In fashion industry, creative ideas and new products appear in new collections of brands presented in several ways, such as fashion week, exhibition etc. Iranian menswear also had the same strategy, but because of features of their customers, usually they use same designs and products in their new collections. Achieving new products in fashion industry can be related to design and technology aspect. Here we are looking for important factors affecting new products in Iranian menswear and also aiming at understanding which strategy are utilized in these product lines. Firstly this is done by gathering data from the Iranian Fashion association and 3 big Iranian menswear brands, secondly by interviews with experts from Iranian menswear brands, looking for answers of the study question. Twelve factors released from literature of study are divided in four sections: fabric sector, garment and accessories sector, and market sector. In 2010-decade, Iranian menswear brands focused on the technology factor in their new products, but during recent years, they changed their mind and now change direction to design departments. These phenomena happen due to the impact of social media on Iranian culture, with social media changing the behavior of the Iranian customer. Generally, accessing the directors of menswear brands was difficult, and during their interview they tried to hide some information. New products were an important factor in increasing market of any menswear brand. This study helps them to utilize the best strategy depending on their customers and market. This study confirms a new product’s impact on customer behavior and culture which could be difference with time.

A multi-perspective approach for analyzing long-running live events on social media. A case study on the “Big Four” international fashion weeks

In the last few years, thanks to the emergence of Web 2.0, social media has made the concept of online live events possible. Users participate more and more in long-running recurring events in social media by sharing their experiences and desires. In the last few years, thanks to the emergence of Web 2.0, social media has made the concept of online live events possible. Users participate more and more in long-running recurring events in social media by sharing their experiences and desires. This work introduces long-running live events (LRLEs), as a type of activity that span physical spaces and digital ecosystems, including social media. LRLEs encompass several individuals, organizations, and brands collaborating/competing in the same event. This provides unprecedented opportunities to understand the dynamics and behavior of event-oriented participation, through collection and analysis of data of user behaviors enabled by the Web platform, where most of the digital traces are left by users. What makes this setting interesting is that the behaviors that are traced are not focused only on one individual brand or organization, and thus allows one to understand and compare the respective roles and influence in a defined setting. In this paper we provide a high-level and multi-perspective roadmap to mine, model, and study LRLEs. Among the various aspects, we develop a multi-modal approach to solve the problem of post popularity prediction that exploits potentially influential factors within LRLE. We employ two methods for implementing feature selection, together with an automated grid search for optimizing hyper-parameters in various regression methods.

‘Not a trend. It’s a tradition’: Remaking Pacific identity and culture at London Pacific Fashion Week 2019

In recent years, the recognition of creative industries such as art, design, media and fashion has thrust these sectors into the spotlight as valuable tools for economic development and integration into global markets. By establishing themselves as creative hotspots, developing countries grow small- and medium-sized enterprises (SMEs) and promote creative entrepreneurs who are involved in transforming culture. While an emphasis on incorporating ‘culture’ into design might also be seen as stultifying or essentializing culture, stakeholders working in the region consistently emphasize the significance of incorporating local cultures into their creations. In this article, we draw on interviews with Pacific designers and fashion festival organizers to demonstrate the range of ways in which ‘culture’ is woven into the story of Pacific fashion. In doing so, we highlight the ways in which participants are ‘remaking’ cultural identity and expression by ‘spinning it into something new’, keeping cultural connections alive and personal for those involved in these industries, while also allowing makers to situate their brand or product in the global market. Furthermore, we suggest that involvement in the world of fashion on a global scale represents an opportunity for participants to explore more inclusive and diverse versions of Pacific identity than those sanctioned or imagined outside the world of fashion.

디지털 패션쇼의 헤테로토피아적 특성 -헬싱키 패션위크를 중심으로-

디지털 패션쇼의 헤테로토피아적 특성 -헬싱키 패션위크를 중심으로-

Neo-Fashion: A Data-Driven Fashion Trend Forecasting System Using Catwalk Analysis

Trend forecasting is a challenging and important aspect of the fashion industry. The authors design a novel fashion trend analysis system called “Neo-Fashion,” which provides recommendations to fashion researchers and practitioners about potential fashion trends using computer vision and machine learning. Neo-Fashion includes three modules, a data collection and labeling module, an instance segmentation module and a trend analysis module. Diffusion of innovation theory is used as the main theoretical framework to understand fashion trends. 32,702 catwalk images from 2019 fashion week were collected, and 769 images were labeled as training data. Neo-fashion is able to identify and segment fashion items in the given images, and indicate the fashion trends in colors, styles, clothing combinations, and other fashion attributes. To optimize the system, more data sources can be included to not only reflect trends in even more categories but also aid in understanding the trickle-up or trickle-across process in fashion.