Cloth Research Articles

Amazonian useful plants described in the book “Le Pays des Amazones” (1885) of the Brazilian propagandist Baron de Santa-Anna Nery: a historical and ethnobotanical perspective

BackgroundFrederico José de Santa-Anna Nery (1848–1901) was a Brazilian Baron who referred to himself as a "volunteer propagandist" for Brazil in Europe, serving as an immigration agent to publicize the living conditions in the Amazon region, advocating for its development and modernization at the end of the nineteenth century. Santa-Anna Nery’s most famous book is "Le Pays des Amazones" (The Lands of the Amazons), first published in 1885, which the author dedicated a chapter to introduce and report on the Amazonian useful plant species and its relationship with humans. The aim of this work is to understand the historical context and ethnobotanical value of the plant species in the Brazilian Amazon at the end of the nineteenth century through an analysis of the book “Le Pays des Amazones” (1885) by Baron de Santa-Anna Nery, as well as to bring to light the historical importance of this very influential propagandist, who has been forgotten nowadays.MethodsThe original book “Le Pays des Amazones” (1885), as well as the original 3rd edition and its translated version into Portuguese, was carefully analyzed and all information about plants was systematized, with botanical names being updated. Finally, using the scientific name of medicinal plants alone or in combination with their traditional use, a search was carried out in databases in order to indicate current pharmacological studies that provide evidence about the described traditional uses.ResultsA total of 156 plant species were identified in the book, although 132 species had their scientific names updated. These species belong to 45 different families, with Fabaceae and Arecaceae the most represented, and 109 plants are Brazilian native. Considering only the 36 medicinal plants, the main medicinal indications reported were astringent, purgative/laxative, stimulant and tonic, vermifuge, febrifuge, sudorific, emetic, diuretic and antidysenteric. Regarding other useful plants (non-medicinal), 97 species were cited for food, constructions and buildings, spices and condiments, ornaments and objects, carpentry, textile fibers, gums, oils, balms and essences, pigments and tanning, hunting and fishing.ConclusionsWhen the book “Le Pays des Amazones” is analyzed from a timeless perspective, with a particular focus on historical ethnobotany, it is possible to observe the economic, social, and political importance of many useful plants for the Amazon at the end of the nineteenth century and how the relationship between local people, indigenous communities, and immigrants was established with plant biodiversity.

Genetic parameters for different types of medullated fibre in Alpacas.

The quality of alpaca textile fibre has great potential, especially if objectionable fibres (coarse and medullated fibres) that cause itching are reduced, considering that objectionable fibres can be identified by diameter and medullation types. The objective of this study was to estimate genetic parameters for medullar types and their respective diameters to evaluate the possibility of incorporating them as selection criteria in alpaca breeding programmes. The research used 3149 alpaca fibre samples collected from 2020 to 2022, from a population of 1626 Huacaya type alpacas. The heritability and correlations of the percentages of non-medullated (NM), fragmented medulle (FM), uncontinuous medullated (UM), continuous medullated (CM), and strongly medullated (SM) fibres were analysed, also the fibre diameter (FD) for each of the medullation types. The heritability estimated for medullation types were 0.25 ± 0.01, 0.18 ± 0.01, 0.10 ± 0.01, 0.20 ± 0.01 and 0.11 ± 0.01 for NM, FM, UM, CM and SM, respectively. The genetic correlations for medullation categories ranged from 0.15 ± 0.03 to 0.66 ± 0.02 (in absolute values). The heritabilility estimated for fibre diameter (FD) of each of the medullation types were 0.29 ± 0.03, 0.27 ± 0.02, 0.35 ± 0.02, 0.30 ± 0.02, 0.25 ± 0.02 and 0.10 ± 0.02 for FD, FD_NM, FD_FM, FD_UM, FD_CM and FD_SM, respectively. The genetic correlations for fibre diameter of the medullation types ranged from 0.04 ± 0.04 to 0.97 ± 0.01. FD, NM and FM are the main traits to be used as selection criteria under a genetic index, since they would reduce fibre diameter, and also increase NM and FM, and, in addition reducing indirectly CM, SM, and SM_FD. Therefore, the quality of alpaca fibre could be improved.

Union Dyeing of Cotton-Silk Blended Woven Fabric Using Tanin Bio-mordant and Thyme as a Colourant

The study explores the application of tea leaf-extracted tannin as a bio-mordant and thyme extract as a natural dye on cationized silk-cotton blend fabric to enhance colour fastness and absorption. The colour strength and depth (shown as DL, Da, and Db values) on silk-cotton blend fabric were investigated in the CIE lab test. The results showed that temperature, shade percentage, and mordanting had a substantial impact on the dyeing process efficacy at DL = 30.61, Da = 11.49 and Db = 12.77. When the temperature was raised to 90 °C and the dye content was increased to 120%, the dyed sample's colour fastness (as measured by wash, rubbing, and perspiration) significantly improved, acquiring a grade of 4 to 5, which indicates good to excellent. There was a slight change in wet rubbing fastness from grade 3 to grade 4, indicating good to fair. The K/S values of the silk and cotton fibres, which ranged from 8.89 to 7.94 on average, respectively, demonstrated that the processes of bio-mordanting and cationization enhanced the absorption of dye. Tensile strength and extension increased in the weft direction to 22.19 N force and 5.21% extension at break, while the warp direction showed a fall to 6.63 N force and a rise in extension of 0.72%. FTIR spectroscopy confirmed the presence of Amino (N-H) bonds, Carbohydrate bonds (CH), Tannins, and Terpenoid phytochemicals of thyme in the dyed sample. The study highlights the potential of thyme extract as a natural dye and its benefits in improving the dyeing properties of silk-cotton blend fabric.

High-Quality Cellulosic Fibers Engineered from Cotton-Elastane Textile Waste.

Even small amounts of elastane in cotton-elastane blended textiles can prevent fiber-to-fiber recycling strategies in textile recycling. Herein, the selective separation of elastane from cotton blends was addressed by the aminolytic degradation of the synthetic component. Polar aprotic solvents were tested as elastane solvents, but side reactions impeded aminolysis with some of them. Aminolysis of elastane succeeded under mild conditions using dimethyl sulfoxide in combination with diethylenetriamine and 1,5-diazabicyclo[4.3.0]non-5-ene as a cleaving agent and catalyst, respectively. The analysis of the nitrogen content in the recovered cellulose fraction demonstrated that 2 h of reaction at 80 °C reduced the elastane content to values lower than 0.08%. The characterization of the recovered cellulose showed that the applied conditions did not affect the macromolecular properties of cellulose and maintained a cellulose I crystal structure. Degraded elastane products were recovered through precipitation with water. Finally, the cellulosic component was turned into new fibers by dry-jet wet spinning with excellent tensile properties.

Environment-independent textile fiber identification using Wi-Fi channel state information

Textile fiber identification is a technique that can help identify the type of target textile fiber. Existing methods usually rely on expensive detection instruments, specialized researchers, and complex processing techniques. The large number of textile fibers makes it difficult for researchers to use a stable and fast method for identification. This paper introduces a textile fiber identification method based on Wi-Fi signals, and at the same time, in the actual measurement, the signal characteristics of Wi-Fi are usually interfered with by the hardware noise and multipath propagation of channel state information (CSI) measurement equipment. To eliminate the inherent noise of CSI, we designed a denoising method based on the CSI data acquisition of textile fiber samples in independent environments. Then, the features of Wi-Fi signal wavelet packet decomposition could be extracted more stably, and the principal component analysis (PCA) method was used to reduce the data dimension. Finally, the convolutional neural network (CNN) was used to classify the data features. We conducted extensive experiments to verify the effectiveness of the proposed method. The results show that the proposed method can identify all 14 kinds of common textile fibers used in the experiment, and the average accuracy is 93.25%.

Recent Advances in Flexible Wearable Technology: From Textile Fibers to Devices.

Smart textile fabrics have been widely investigated and used in flexible wearable electronics because of their unique structure, flexibility and breathability, which are highly desirable with integrated multifunctionality. Recent years have witnessed the rapid development of textile fiber-based flexible wearable devices. However, the pristine textile fibers still can't meet the high standards for practical flexible wearable devices, which calls for the development of some effective modification strategies. In this review, we summarize the recent advances in the flexible wearable devices based on the textile fibers, putting special emphasis on the design and modifications of textile fibers. In addition, the applications of textile fibers in various fields and the critical role of textile fibers are also systematically discussed, which include the supercapacitors, sensors, triboelectric nanogenerators, thermoelectrics, and other self-powered electronic devices. Finally, the main challenges that should be overcome and some effective solutions are also manifested, which will guide the future development of more effective textile fiber-based flexible wearable devices.

Understanding Binding of Quaternary Ammonium Compounds with Cellulose-Based Fibers and Wipes for Renewable and Sustainable Hygiene Options

Cellulose-based fibers are desirable materials for nonwoven wipes for their good absorbency, strength, cleaning, and biodegradable properties. However, quaternary ammonium compounds (QACs), being cationic in nature, show electrostatic interactions with anionic cellulosic fibers, reducing the available QACs to efficiently clean surfaces. This research presents sustainable alternative fibers that show better controlled exhaustion than commercial wipes and textile fibers. Textile and lignocellulosic fibers were prepared, soaked in QAC, and a UV–vis spectrophotometer was used to measure their exhaustion percentages. Factors such as immersion time and concentration of the disinfectant were also investigated, which affect the rate of exhaustion of the disinfectant from the fibers. A higher immersion time resulted in better exhaustion, whereas the total exhaustion decreased with an increase in the initial concentration of the disinfectant. The exhaustion of benzalkonium chloride (BAC) from the commercial wipes was also investigated at different immersion times and BAC concentrations. It was found that the wood and non-wood fibers showed more controlled exhaustion than the textile fibers and commercial wipes, and could be considered an alternative option for renewable and sustainable wipes and hygiene products.

Textile Fibres and its Impression on Sports Outfit

The sports and associated industries rely deeply on textiles. Active sports clothing is commonly made from a variety of natural and synthetic fibres, including cotton, wool, polyester, and nylon. The term “textile” is always supported in a variety of sports to enhance the performance of the athlete and sportsman. Researchers have begun developing a various apparels including swimsuit that quickly prevents water without exhausting the swimmer’s vitality, suit constructed of modified polyesters for racers and cycle riders that improves performance without diminishing energy.

Feasibility analysis for the application of conduction tracks on textiles by means of laser radiation

Textiles are not only used for clothing but also have found applications in many other areas. Textiles fulfilling functional or technical properties are called “technical textiles.” Incorporation of conductive components, sensors, or materials reacting to environmental influences convert those into so-called “smart textiles.” Common methods of applying conductive tracks to textiles are embroidery, which can cause damage to the textile, or printing of a low-conductivity paste that may include toxic chemicals. A new method of applying electrical conductors to textiles for contacting is laser welding. In this process, a thin metal foil is welded on locally with an absorber placed above the metal foil to ensure that sufficient energy is applied to partially melt the textile underneath the metal foil. One variant for welding conductive tracks is the use of a globo-optics and a diode laser system with a wavelength of 975 nm. With these optics, the glass sphere focuses the laser beam and serves as a mechanical pressure tool for achieving a zero gap between fabric and foil. Parameters that are varied are the processing speed and the laser power receiving different track widths, as well as the type of textile. In this work, their influence is evaluated by microscopy, electrical resistance measurements during Martindale tests for abrasion resistance, and tensile tests. The investigations clarify the durability and utility of welded conductive tracks on textiles. It is possible to produce conductive tracks out of beaten copper joined on textiles using laser radiation showing conductivity after 10,000 abrasion cycles. The tensile strength of textiles totally made of thermoplastics is more influenced by the heat input of the laser than blended textiles, but their abrasion resistance is worse. Furthermore, an outlook on the possibility of welding using a laser source with a wavelength of 450 nm (blue laser) and a scanner as optics will be given.

Enhancing Sustainability and Performance of Pineapple Leaf Fibres in Textile Applications: A Comprehensive Review


 The utilization of pineapple leaves (Ananas comosus) has gained significant momentum as a source of value-added products, owing to the myriad benefits offered by Pineapple Leaf Fibres (PALF). PALF presents a range of advantages, including its contribution to a greener environment and sustainability. PALF production plays a pivotal role in reducing environmental pollution and minimizing waste. Moreover, PALF stands out due to its availability, remarkable thermal and acoustic insulation properties, cost-effectiveness, and exceptional tensile strength. Further, the extraction of PALF can be accomplished manually or mechanically, and various methods have been explored to enhance its compatibility with textile applications. In this context, extensive research has been carried out to modify PALF for its application in the textile industry. Researchers have primarily focused on surface modifications. These modifications encompass chemical treatments, physicochemical treatments, physical treatments, and thermal treatments. All of these contribute to improved interfacial adhesion and enhanced physical, mechanical, and thermal properties of PALF. Additionally, investigations into bleaching and dyeing of PALF have led to achieving superior whiteness and the ability to impart various colours to the fibres. PALF fibres exhibit remarkable qualities, including excellent sweat absorption, breathability, durability, and notable air and water permeability. These attributes make PALF a sought-after material for creating blended fabrics in conjunction with other polymers, such as polyester and wool, enhancing the performance of resulting textiles. The versatility of PALF enable its integration into an extensive range of textile products, underscoring its significance in the industry. This review also explores innovative approaches, such as blending PALF with jute, resulting in the creation of home textiles and carpets, while simultaneously improving the quality of blended yarns. Furthermore, within the textile industry, PALF fibres find diverse applications in the production of an array of products. This involves the crafting of wedding dresses, casual attire, and formal garments. It also includes the manufacturing of table linens, mats, bags, shoes, belts, cords, transmission cloths, airbag tying cords, and carpets. This comprehensive review delves into the wealth of research conducted on PALF modifications, shedding light on the potential of PALF as a sustainable and high- performance material in the textile industry, contributing to further eco-friendly and innovative future.
 
 Keywords: Pineapple Leaf Fibres (PALF), Textile Industry, Sustainability, Greener environment

Effect of GA3 and calcium on growth, biochemical, and fatty acid composition of linseed under chloride-dominated salinity.

The accumulation of salts in soil is an environmental threat affecting plant growth and crop yield. Linseed or flax is an ancient crop that has multifarious utilities in terms of industrial oil, textile fiber, and products. Salt susceptibility adversely affects linseed production, particularly to meet the growing demand for nutritional and nutraceutical products. In the present study, the ameliorative potential of gibberellic acid (GA3) and calcium (Ca2+) in mitigating the adverse effects of chloride-dominated salinity stress on the growth and physiological and biochemical processes in linseed was determined. Severe salinity treatment (10 dSm-1) resulted in stunted growth of tested linseed genotypes causing a significant reduction in biomass while proline content, phenol, H2O2, lipid peroxidation, and DPPH activity were increased in comparison to control. The exogenous application of 10-6M GA3 and/or 10mg CaCl2 kg-1 was found to mitigate the adverse effects of salinity stress. The mitigation was accomplished through the improvement of growth indicators, increased osmoprotectants such as proline and phenol content, stimulating DPPH activity, and reduction of H2O2 content and lipid peroxidation. The comparative evaluation of different saline treatments imposed individually and in combination with GA3 and Ca2+ revealed that combined GA3 and Ca2+ application exhibited synergistic effects and was most effective in mitigating the negative impacts of salt stress. The present study unravels the ameliorative role of GA3 and Ca2+ (individual or combined) in the physiologic-biochemical adaptive response of linseed plants grown under chloride-dominated salinity and thus aids in a better understanding of the underlying tolerance mechanisms of plants to withstand stress in saline environments.

A Characterization Approach for End-of-Life Textile Recovery Based on Short-Wave Infrared Spectroscopy

Reusing and recycling End-Of-Life (EoL) textiles is a successful approach to develop sustainable and circular strategies in the apparel industry. Textile reuse and recycling can help to reduce the environmental impact of the fashion and textile industry by preserving natural resources and reducing waste. Textile fibers recognition and sorting, according to material composition, are of primary importance for the implementation of efficient and sustainable recycling strategies. In this work, Short-Wave InfraRed (SWIR: 1000–2500 nm) spectroscopy was applied to extract information regarding the fabric composition of different EoL textiles in order to set up a hierarchical classification procedure able to recognize different type of textile. In more detail, Partial Least Squares-Discriminant Analysis (PLS-DA) pattern recognition technique was used and classifications were performed in two steps: (1) recognition of the fiber origin [i.e. plant-derived, animal-derived, artificial textiles such as synthetic and/or Man-Made Cellulosic Fibers (MMCFs)] and, (2) discrimination of fabrics according to the material classes (i.e. silk, cotton, wool, viscose, linen, jute, polyester and blends). The proposed chemometric technique successfully classified textiles based on their spectral properties. The acquired results are highly promising and provide important insight into the EoL textile recycling business. These analytical techniques have the potential to be utilized to successfully automate the recycling process, either in addition to or as a replacement for manual processes, hence improving sorting procedures.Graphical

Study on enhancing the union dyeing of cotton/modal blended fabrics with cationic modifier

AbstractCotton/modal blended fabrics are favoured by the market because not only do they have the advantages of the dimensional stability of cotton and drape wear resistance of modal, they also overcome their shortcomings, displaying a sense of stiffness and smooth feel. However, because of the differences in the physical and chemical properties between each component, the dyeing of blended fabrics with reactive dyes is prone to problems such as low fixation percentage, different dyeing percentages and colour depth. Here, two cationic modifiers, 2,3‐epoxypropyltrimethyl ammonium chloride (GTA) and methaacryloyloxyethyltrimethyl ammonium chloride (DMC), were applied for cationic modification of cotton/modal blended fabrics, and their role in the dyeability and union dyeing of cotton/modal blended fabrics was studied. The results showed that the K/S and fixation percentage of the blended fabric treated with GTA and DMC cationic agents could be significantly improved compared with the control group, and that the colour fastness of the blended fabric can reach grade 4‐5. Compared with GTA, DMC‐modified cotton/modal blended fabric showed better union dyeing properties because of its better diffusion performance in the fibre. The mesoporous volume of the cotton fibre is higher than that of the modal fibre, while the micropore volume is the opposite. Consequently, DMC macromolecules, through free radical graft polymerisation, were more likely to diffuse into cotton fibres with more mesoporous content, increased the interaction force between anionic reactive dye and cotton fibre, and improved the dyeability of the cotton component and the union dyeing performance of the blended fabric.

Comparing the financial costs and carbon neutrality of polyester fibres produced from 100% bio-based PET, 100% recycled PET, or in combination

AbstractThe rise of fast fashion has led to challenges in sustainable production and recycling of polyester textile waste. Bio-based polyethylene terephthalate (bio-PET) and the enzymatic hydrolysis of PET textiles may offer two solutions for bio and circular clothing. This study designed and simulated scaled enzymatic hydrolysis of fossil PET into ethylene glycol (r-EG) and purified terephthalic acid (r-PTA), the production of bio-EG and bio-PTA from the wheat straw ethanol (EtOH) and corn stover isobutene (IBN), respectively, and the production of PET polyester textile fibres from these monomers. The research goal was to determine whether bio-PET, r-PET, or their mixture achieves better positive profitability and NPV2023 and carbon neutrality in textile fibres. The financial returns and carbon emissions for r-PET fibres with a bio-PET content of 0%, 20%, 40%, 60%, 80% to 100% was estimated for scenario 1 (a newly constructed plant), scenario 2 (no capital costs for the EtOH or IBN processes), and scenario 3 (no capital costs for the EtOH, IBN, and enzymatic hydrolysis processes). While scenario 1 was not able to generate positive net profits or NPV2023, scenarios 2 and 3 were able to attain financial sustainability when the bio-PET content was ≤ 40%. On the other hand, increasing the amount of bio-PET content in the polyester fibre from 0 to 100 wt.% decreased its carbon footprint from 2.99 to 0.46 kg CO2eq./kg of PET fibre.

Challenges of polyester-cotton textiles co-fractionation

Waste problem on plastic relates to micro plastic issue and synthetic textile fibers pronounce part of the problem. Inherently the problems in recycling are rising form the structure of the textiles, comprising of textile fiber blends, yarn and garment structures and well the components typical for clothing. In chemical separation methods, the sensitivity of both of the polymers defines strict limits to which conditions are possible without depolymerizing or damaging markedly either of the main components. In this paper we discuss the challange of available processes.

Iridescence Mimicking in Fabrics: A Ultraviolet/Visible Spectroscopy Study.

Poly(styrene-methyl methacrylate-acrylic acid) photonic crystals (PCs), with five different sizes (170, 190, 210, 230 and 250 nm), were applied onto three plain fabrics, namely polyamide, polyester and cotton. The PC-coated fabrics were analyzed using scanning electronic microscopy and two UV/Vis reflectance spectrophotometric techniques (integrating sphere and scatterometry) to evaluate the PCs' self-assembly along with the obtained spectral and colors characteristics. Results showed that surface roughness of the fabrics had a major influence on the color produced by PCs. Polyamide-coated fabrics were the only samples having an iridescent effect, producing more vivid and brilliant colors than polyester and cotton samples. It was observed that as the angle of incident light increases, a hypsochromic shift in the reflection peak occurs along with the formation of new reflection peaks. Furthermore, color behavior simulations were performed with an illuminant A light source on polyamide samples. The illuminant A simulation showed greener and yellower structural colors than those illuminated with D50. The polyester and cotton samples were analyzed using scatterometry to check for iridescence, which was unseen upon ocular inspection and then proven to be present in these samples. This work allowed a better comprehension of how structural colors and their iridescence are affected by the textile substrate morphology and fiber type.

Dyeing of advanced denim fabrics (blend of cotton/bicomponent polyester filaments) using different processes and artificial intelligence method

Denim clothes are the must-have items of clothing around the world. This kind of fabrics is evolving with the increasing consumer demand in order to keep its place as a versatile article. In this context, this paper contributes to the development and dyeing of a new blend fabric made of cotton fibers and bicomponent polyester filaments (PET/PTT). A comparative study between the mechanical and thermal properties of this fabric and conventional fabrics has confirmed the great interest to use bicomponent (PET/PTT) filaments in the manufacture of denim fabrics; these bicomponent filaments allow to give to wearer the desired elasticity and comfort. For dyeing (cotton/bicomponent polyester filaments) blend fabric, three different processes, using reactive and disperse dyes, were tested and analyzed. These dyeing processes are: two-baths/two-phases, one-bath/two-phases, and one-bath/one-phase processes. In addition, in order to obtain uniform shades between cotton fibers dyed with reactive dyes and bicomponent polyester filaments dyed with disperse dyes, an ant colony algorithm was elaborated to predict the optimal dye recipes. By observing obtained results, the developed algorithm is very effective; it allows to find the combination of reactive dyes necessary to achieve the same shade obtained by the disperse dyes with very small color differences between the two components and without having to make corrections mainly for the one-bath/two-phases process. Indeed, dyeing using the two processes (two baths/two phases and one bath/two phases) presents the best values of color yield (K/S) with almost similar results (ΔECMC(2:1) < < 1). For the one-bath/one-phase process, it presents less significant results; We can observe ΔECMC(2:1) greater than 1 in certain shades. This is due to the strongly pH value (basic pH of 11) of reactive dyeing.

A Comprehensive Investigation of Woolenization Process Effect on Jute Yarn Quality

Jute, a renowned biodegradable and sustainable textile fibre, plays a pivotal role in environmentally conscious textile production. The purpose of this study was to investigate the effects of the woolenization process on the qualitative attributes of jute yarn, such as yarn evenness, and tensile and functional properties, with a special focus on the development of wool-like properties. Yarn samples were meticulously prepared from white jute fibre, categorized into three distinct count groups (C8, C10, and C12), and subjected to four treatment categories: untreated (U), woolenized (W), bleached (B), and dyed (D). The results showed that the woolenization process impoverished yarn evenness, with a significant 15.2% increase in CVm for WC8, 74% and 88.6% increase in Thin (-50%)/Km and Thick (+50%)/Km, respectively, for WC10. For tensile properties, a 27% reduction in tenacity and 176.5% remarkable elongation improvement were noted for samples WC10 and WC12, respectively. Furthermore, the development of wool-like properties was noteworthy in functional properties, including a 38.8% increase in Specific Volume Index (SVI), and a 12.8% reduction in moisture content was marked for WC8. The woolenization process also had an adverse effect on jute yarn count and quality ratio, with a deterioration of 12.5% and 32.2% marked for sample WC10, respectively. The results suggest that the bleaching process performed after woolenization negatively impacts yarn evenness. However, dyeing after woolenization and bleaching can enhance overall yarn quality. The outcome of this study will promote the use of natural fibre, and jute over synthetic and natural wool fibres.

Combination of Artificial Neural Networks and Principal Component Analysis for the Simultaneous Quantification of Dyes in Multi-Component Aqueous Mixtures

Dyes are organic compounds capable of transmitting their color to materials, which is why they are widely used, for example, in textile fibers, leather, paper, plastic, and the food industry. In the dying process, measuring the dye’s content is extremely important to evaluate the process efficiency and minimize the dye’s discharge in wastewater, but most of the time, dyes are present in multi-component mixtures; hence, quantification by spectrophotometric methods presents a great challenge because the signal obtained in the measurement overlaps the components in the mixture. In order to overcome this issue, the use of the high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) method is recommended; however, it has the disadvantage of being an expensive technique, complex, and requiring excessive sample preparation. In recent years, some direct spectrophotometric methods based on multivariate regression algorithms for the quantification of dyes in bicomponent mixtures have been reported. This study presents a new framework that uses a combined ANN and principal component analysis (PCA) model for the determination of the concentration of three dyes in aqueous mixtures: Tartrazine (TZ), Amaranth Red (AR), and Blue 1 CFC (B1) dyes. The PCA–ANN model was trained and validated with ternary mixture samples of TZ, AR, and B1, and with known different compositions, spectra absorbance samples were measured in a UV-Vis spectrophotometer at wavelengths between 350–700 nm with intervals of 1 nm. The PCA–ANN model showed a mean absolute prediction error and correlation coefficient (r2) of less than 1% and greater than 0.99, respectively. The results demonstrate that the PCA–ANN model is a quick and highly accurate alternative in the simultaneous determination of dyes in ternary aqueous mixtures.

Experimental investigation of mechanical and comfort properties of banana/cotton blended woven fabrics

Purpose Through this study, four different types of woven fabric structures were created by using cotton/banana blends with a 70:30 ratio by varying the weaving specifications. This study aims to investigate the comfort and mechanical properties of these woven materials. Design/methodology/approach Taguchi L16 experimental design (5 factors and 4 levels) with response surface methodology tool was used to optimize mechanical and comfort characteristics. The yarn samples used in this study are cotton/banana with a blend ratio of 70:30. Fabric type (A), grams per square metre (GSM; B), yarn count (C), fabric thickness (D) and cloth cover factor (E) are the chosen process characteristics. Findings The highest tensile strength and tearing strength of the cotton/banana blended fabric samples were obtained as 326.3 N and 90.3 k.gf/cm, respectively. Similarly, the highest thermal conductivity and overall moisture management capacity values were found to be 0.6628 and 3.06 W/mK X10−4, respectively. The optimized process parameters for obtaining maximum mechanical properties were using canvas fabric structure, 182 GSM, 36s Ne yarn count, 0.48 mm fabric thickness and 23.5 cloth cover factor. Similarly, the optimized process parameters for obtaining maximum comfort properties were achieved using a twill fabric structure, 182 GSM, 32s Ne yarn count, 0.4 mm fabric thickness and 23 cloth cover factor. Originality/value In contrast to synthetic fabrics, banana fibre and its blended materials are significant ecological solutions for apparel and functional clothing. Products made from banana fibre are a sustainable and green alternative to conventional fabrics. Banana fibre obtained from the pseudostem of the plant has an appearance similar to ramie and bamboo fibres. Numerous studies showed that banana fibre could absorb significant moisture and be spun into yarn through ring and rotor spinning technology. On the other hand, this fibre can be easily combined with cotton, jute, wool and synthetic fibre. The present utilization of pseudostem of banana plant fibre is very minimal. This type of research improves the usability of bananas their blended fabrics as apparel and functional wear.