Fabric Assurance By Simple Testing Research Articles

An investigation on usability of 3D visualization and simulation programs in leather apparel

Three-dimensional (3 D) visualization and simulation programs cannot be used in leather apparel companies prevalently due to the lack of leather material information in the databases. In this study, the properties of different types of leather and fabrics are determined with certain standards and alternatively with FAST (Fabric Assurance by Simple Testing) system, interpreted and defined in the database of Vidya 3 D program. The two-dimensional (2 D) garment patterns prepared in the Assyst CAD program were transferred to the 3 D program, and dress simulations were performed on the virtual mannequin by using the newly defined materials. The sewn dresses and simulations were evaluated by a jury considering similarity success. It has been found that Vidya 3 D program can simulate model and material behaviors realistically by using the data obtained from the FAST system, however, it does not demonstrate the drape parameter precisely, and the software should be improved for this direction.

Evaluation of Quality and Assurance Parameters of Mulberry Silk Waste and Viscose Blended Knitted Fabrics by Using ‘Fabric Assurance by Simple Testing’ (FAST) Technique

Fabric handle is one of the influential properties for any fabric and is a guiding factor for optimum selection of textile materials for specific end uses. The paper deals with objective analysis of knitted fabrics for fabric hand. Present attempt was made on four knitted fabrics, blended in proportions of 50% mulberry silk: 50% viscose and 40% mulberry silk: 60% viscose, each in two different counts. Fabric Assurance by Simple Testing (FAST) was utilized for determination of properties which is precisely associated with apparel construction and its lastingness. Fabric samples were subjected to tests for obtainment of dimensional stability, formability, low load extensibility, bending rigidity, compression and shear rigidity. Knitted fabric blended in proportion of 50% mulberry silk: 50% viscose in 20 Nm count was found to be most feasible to large scale production and garment construction.

Psychophysical Testing of Virtual Fabric Drape

In this study, we tested five woven fabrics and observed their virtual drape behaviors. Fabrics’ mechanical properties were measured by Fabric Assurance by Simple Testing (FAST) system and simulations were created by O/Dev simulation software by Optitex. Drape behaviors of fabrics on a circular disc model were simulated and obtained virtual drape images were processed by image analysis software to calculate drape parameters. The purpose of this study is to understand the visual perception of people when looking at a fabric drape simulation. Which feature of drape is actually more significant to human eye? A psychophysical test was developed to understand human selectivity for drape geometry in virtual environment. Finally, 27 participants’ psychophysical test results were compared to calculated values. Participants found to be most sensitive to evenness and placement of folds while they were least sensitive to fold sizes.

Drape simulation and subjective assessment of virtual drape

In this study, a commercial 3D virtual garment simulation software (Optitex) is used to simulate drape behaviours of five different fabrics. Mechanical properties of selected fabrics are measured by Fabric Assurance by Simple Testing (FAST) method. Measured bending, shear and extension properties of fabrics are inserted to the simulation software to achieve more realistic simulations. Simulation images of fabrics are shown to 27 people and they are asked to match real drape images of fabrics with simulated drape images. Fabric simulations of two fabrics were correctly matched by the majority of the test group. However, the other three fabrics’ simulations were mismatched by most of the people.

Far-Infrared Emission Characteristics and Wear Comfort Property of ZrC-Imbedded Heat Storage Knitted Fabrics for Emotional Garments

Abstract This study examined the far-infrared emission characteristics and wear comfort properties of ZrC-imbedded heat storage knitted fabrics. For this purpose, ZrC-imbedded, heat storage PET (polyethylene terephthalate) was spun from high-viscosity PET with imbedded ZrC powder on the core part and low-viscosity PET on the sheath part using a conjugated spinning method. ZrC-imbedded PET knitted fabric was also prepared and its physical properties were measured and compared with those of regular PET knitted fabric. In addition, ingredient analysis and the far-infrared emission characteristics of the ZrC-imbedded knitted fabrics were analyzed by energy dispersive X-ray spectroscopy and Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy. The thermal properties, moisture absorption, and drying properties of the ZrC-imbedded PET knitted fabric were measured and compared with those of the regular PET knitted fabric. The mechanical properties using the FAST (fabric assurance by simple testing) system and the dye affinity of the ZrC-imbedded knitted fabric were also measured and compared with those of regular PET knitted fabric.

Features selection of stonewashed denim to a sensory descriptor

A novel approach of physical feature selection is proposed based on the techniques of fuzzy logic and ordered weighted averaging (OWA) operators. The selection is considered as a Multi Expert-Multi Criteria Decision Making (ME-MCDM) problem, since this approach ranks physical features according to their relevancy to multiple experts’ perception. In this study, objective and subjective evaluations of stonewashed denim fabric were made to predict fabric handle in a simple way. The aim of this research was to select the most relevant objective parameters predicting a given subjective one with a minimum number of laboratory measurements. For this purpose, a wide database of treated denim fabrics was prepared by making subjective and objective evaluations. Subjective assessment was evaluated by two different panels. The first one consists of sensorial experts who classify the fabric samples according to their sensitivity to a predefined sensory descriptor. The second one is a panel that masters professional knowledge only in mechanical features of fabrics. The objective measurements were evaluated mainly by means of the Kawabata Evaluating system for fabrics (KES-F), Fabric Assurance by Simple Testing (FAST) system and Universal Surface Tester (UST). The soft computing modelling demonstrate that the fuzzy sensitivity and OWA operators are capable of selecting the most relevant objective parameters notably by introducing a smart percolation method yielding automatically the set of the most objective parameters.

Fabric Sewability Prediction with Kernel PCA Based on SFC-RBFNN

By extracting five kernel principal components of fabric FAST (Fabric Assurance by Simple Testing) low mechanical data, this paper proposed a supervised fuzzy clustering radial basis function neural network to construct fabric sewability prediction system. Our experimental results demonstrate that the proposed system could efficiently be used as an objective seam pucker evaluation system with high accuracy and is robust for various structures and mechanical properties of middle-thickness woolen fabric.

Study on the Properties and Application of Optim™ Fine Fibers

Optim™ fine is a new generation of ultrafine wool fibres, which are transformed by stretching and setting from merino wool. The Optim™ fine retains some of the physical and chemical properties of merino wool, but the morphology and other properties changes, such as the diameter, length, lusture, breaking extension and shrinkage. These changes results in the performance difference btween the fabric woven from Optim™ fine and fine wool fiber. To clearly understande the reason of the difference, the morphological and physical properties changes of Optim™ fine was examined in this paper, and the performance difference between wool fabric and Optim™ fine fabric was evaluated by Fabric Assurance by Simple Testing(FAST). It was found that the decreasing in breaking extension and increasing in shrinkage of Optim™ fine resulted in the declining in formability and dimensional stability of Optim™ fine fabric. Suggestions on the ways of constructing Optim™ fine into fabric were also given according to the anlysis of relationship between the properties changes of Optim™ fine fiber and that of its fabric.

Influence of polyester fibre fineness and cross‐sectional shape on low‐stress characteristics of fabrics

The paper presents the results of the investigations made on 2/1 twill fabrics made from polyester and polyester‐blended yarns to appreciate the role of constituent polyester fibre fineness and profiles in deciding their handle, appearance and performance in garment manufacturing operations. Three different polyester fibre profiles, trilobal, scalloped oval and tetrakelion, along with circular were chosen and linear density of circular fibre was varied for this investigation. The objective measurements were performed with Fabric Assurance by Simple Testing (FAST) system for evaluation of handle and tailoring performance by extracting information about deformations (i.e. compression, extensibility, bending and shear) in the fabrics. Fabrics’ physical and mechanical parameters were shown to be altered by fibre form (fineness and cross‐sectional shapes). Higher fibre denier leads to higher values of all four mechanical characteristics and results in higher formability. The influence of cross‐section is very specific. Trilobal and tetrakelion, being stiffer and produce bulky yarn, resulting in stiffer fabrics with higher formability compared to their comparable circular fibre fabrics. Scalloped oval fibres, because of their less bending and torsion rigidities, produce fabric of low rigidity and formability but moderate compressibility and high extensibility. Mixing of polyester and viscose tends to reduce the stiffness (both bending and shear) but improves extensibility and formability.

PREDICTION OF HUMAN PSYCHOPHYSICAL PERCEPTION OF FABRIC CRISPNESS AND COOLNESS HAND FROM RAPIDLY MEASURABLE LOW-STRESS MECHANICAL AND THERMAL PARAMETERS

ABSTRACT This work investigated the possibility of predicting the human psychophysical perception of crispness and coolness hand of men's suit fabrics made from animal fibers (wool, mohair, cashmere and alpaca) from rapidly measurable low-stress mechanical and thermal parameters. Thanks to Fabric Assurance by Simple Testing (FAST) and Alambeta instruments, in about 1 h for sample, it was possible to simply obtain eight parameters that together described low-stress compressional, bending, shearing, and tensile deformations and thermal behavior. Sensory hand evaluation was performed by a panel of eight experts. After assessing the inter-expert concordance, the sensory-instrumental relationship was explored using multiple linear regression and comparing three mathematical models: a linear function, the Weber–Fechner law and the Stevens's power law, with the last two being well-established psychophysical models to translate instrumentally measured fabric properties into corresponding hand parameters. PRACTICAL APPLICATIONS The textile and clothing industry is increasingly interested in the development of tools to describe and grade the sensory quality of its products. Especially finishing companies, largely small and medium-sized, require objective methods for online controlling fabric handle and just-in-time setting their finishing machines and processes. Even if some industrial and commercial sectors have switched to trained sensory panels, this solution is difficult to apply in the textile finishing sector, that is more and more interested in instrumental methods for evaluating the effectiveness of finishing processes, checking the efficiency of machine operations and troubleshooting. This demand is undermined by the limited availability of skilled technicians able to use complex and costly fabric objective measurement systems, such as the Kawabata's Evaluation System for Fabrics one (KES-F), that, in addition, does not allow quick responses. This work proposed the reliable, simple and rapid measurement of hand-related properties, both mechanical and thermal, with FAST and Alambeta instruments, to be translated in a powerful prediction model for the human psychophysical perception of crispness and coolness hand of both winter and summer men's suit fabrics made from animal fibers (wool, mohair, cashmere and alpaca).

A New Tester and Method for Measuring Fabric Stiffness and Drape

A new tester which uses a cross-shaped specimen to measure fabric drape and stiffness is proposed. The warp and the weft strips of the specimen are supported at the central part and bend under its own weight. The x and y coordinates of the hanging strips are measured so that the drape angles can be calculated. The way that the warp and the weft strips drape can be determined from one measurement. Using Peirce's formula, the conventional bending length and flexural rigidity can also be found. There is a strong correlation with measurements made using the Shirley stiffness tester and the Fabric Assurance by Simple Testing (FAST)-2 bending meter of FAST system.

Garment abrasion strength evaluation: a comparative methods study

Purpose – The breaking strength compromises fabric wearing out during wear of garments and is a determining parameter in their useful life. Thus, it is intended to compare the efficacy of each method concerning the understanding of results, which is, the explanation of the phenomenon, namely through statistical models which characterize abrasion strength, measured by each method, as a function of fabric assurance by simple testing (FAST) parameters.

An experimental study on fabric softness evaluation

PurposeTo examine a simple testing method of measuring the force to pull a fabric through a series of parallel pins to determine the fabric softness property.Design/methodology/approachA testing system was setup for fabric pulling force measurements and the testing parameters were experimentally determined. The specific pulling forces were compared with the fabric assurance by simple testing (FAST) parameters and subjective softness ranking. Their correlations were also statistically analyzed.FindingsThe fabric pulling force reflects the physical and surface properties of the fabrics measured by the FAST instrument and its ability to rank fabric softness appears to be close to the human hand response on fabric softness. The pulling force method can also distinguish the difference of fabrics knitted with different wool fiber contents.Research limitations/implicationsOnly 21 woven and three knitted fabrics were used for this investigation. More fabrics with different structures and finishes may be evaluated before the testing method can be put in practice.Practical implicationsThe testing method could be used for objective assessment of fabric softness.Originality/valueThe testing method reported in this paper is a new concept in fabric softness measurement. It can provide objective specifications for fabric softness, thus should be valuable to fabric community.

CLOTHING MOVEMENT – VISUAL SENSORY EVALUATION AND ITS CORRELATION TO FABRIC PROPERTIES

ABSTRACTClothing movement was evaluated on a video screen by a descriptive analysis sensory technique and correlated to tactile attributes and fabric mechanical properties. Six fabrics were tailored into identical wide‐leg trousers and dresses, animated by a professional model, filmed and edited for sensory evaluation. Tactile attributes were assessed sensorially and fabric mechanical properties were characterized by F.A.S.T. (Fabric Assurance by Simple Testing) and drape measurements. The following bipolar attribute pairs dominate movement language and perception: flowing to stiff and heavyweight to lightweight. Perceptual space of clothing movement is essentially two dimensional and high correlation coefficients between visual and tactile attributes were found. The fabric drape coefficient correlates highly with visual and tactile attributes and is a simple screening method for clothing movement prediction.

Model of the Tensile Stress-Strain Behavior of Fabrics

Currently, objective measurements of textile fabrics refer to mechanical and physical properties measured by testing devices such as KES (Kawabata's evaluation system) and FAST (fabric assurance by simple testing). Textile scientists and engineers can easily obtain the values of these properties, but their use for developing models of fabric behavior is rare, although this is the simplest and most correct way to do it. Here, we develop an analytical model of the tensile force dependent on strain for a fabric sample, integrating the Kawabata parameters obtained by means of this test. The empirical stress-strain curves of some fabrics are presented and compared with curves obtained analytically.

The application of fabric objective measurement in shirt manufacture

Evaluates the mechanical properties of 60 different shirting materials: fabric extensibility, formability, shear rigidity, bending rigidity, relaxation shrinkage, and hygral expansion by the adoption of the fabric assurance by simple testing (FAST) system. Investigates manufacturing processes comprising spreading, cutting, sewing, handling, pressing and packaging and correlates the measured properties of the shirting fabric with their actual performance during making up. Claims this overall evaluation of respective fabric performance enables manufacturers to identify the range of mechanical properties ideal for high‐quality shirt production. Adds that specific manufacturing instructions can be prepared, based on the results of fabric property evaluation, for fabrics which tend to present difficulties in production. Points out that these can considerably expedite the manufacture of garments, avoiding the alternative – expensive “trial and error” – solution to problems.

Subjective and objective evaluation of men’s shirting fabrics

Reports a survey of fabric handle preferences for a range of 50 men’s shirting materials. A total of 199 judges were divided into two panels according to their experience in the textile and clothing industry. Low levels of agreement were found which signify the errors inherent in subjective assessment of fabric handle. The analysis was extended to include fabric assurance by simple testing (FAST) data on the mechanical properties of these fabrics in order to establish whether there was any relationship existing between the judges’ preferences and the fabric mechanical parameters. Highlights shear rigidity, formability and bending rigidity as the most influential properties for the determination of fabric total hand value (THV). Moreover, establishes a validated THV equation to predict fabric handle assessment by using objective data. Demonstrates that the mean of the assessment and a substantial amount of individual subjective handle assessment can be explained by the model.

Importance of mechanical and physical properties of fabrics in the clothing manufacturing process

Deals with the qualitative and quantitative analysis of the tailorability of lightweight wool fabrics, as well as studies related to the interaction between the ease of tailorability and performance characteristics of wool fabrics. The role of mechanical/physical properties of fabric in the making‐up process as regards lightweight wool fabrics must be fully understood in order to achieve trouble‐free tailoring of garments made from such fabrics. Places emphasis on practical analysis of tailorability of difficult lightweight wool fabrics, providing subsequent solutions for the making‐up of such fabrics. In tailorability prediction analysis work, in addition to analysis of overall garment production, the further analysis of part processes such as sewing, feeding and handling have also been made using TEFO’s computerized methods of analysis. Results are analysed in terms of the relevant mechanical and physical properties of the test fabrics. Evaluates properties using both the Kawabata Evaluation System (KES) and Fabric Assurance by Simple Testing (FAST) sets of instruments.

THE USE OF KES AND FAST INSTRUMENTS

The experience of the Philadelphia College of Textiles and Science with the use of Kawabata Evaluation System for Fabrics (KES‐F) since 1984 and more recently, 1988, with the Fabric Assurance by Simple Testing (FAST) is described. Although previous projects have involved the effect of chemical and mechanical finishing and sponging on the hand and mechanical properties of fabrics, the major emphasis here correlates the processability of fabrics in tailored clothing manufacturing, especially in manually operated overfeed sewing, with the tensile‐elongation and shear properties of these fabrics. It is anticipated that programmable sewing machines will require instructions based on the mechanical properties of the fabrics being processed.