PREDICTION OF HUMAN PSYCHOPHYSICAL PERCEPTION OF FABRIC CRISPNESS AND COOLNESS HAND FROM RAPIDLY MEASURABLE LOW-STRESS MECHANICAL AND THERMAL PARAMETERS

Abstract

ABSTRACT This work investigated the possibility of predicting the human psychophysical perception of crispness and coolness hand of men's suit fabrics made from animal fibers (wool, mohair, cashmere and alpaca) from rapidly measurable low-stress mechanical and thermal parameters. Thanks to Fabric Assurance by Simple Testing (FAST) and Alambeta instruments, in about 1 h for sample, it was possible to simply obtain eight parameters that together described low-stress compressional, bending, shearing, and tensile deformations and thermal behavior. Sensory hand evaluation was performed by a panel of eight experts. After assessing the inter-expert concordance, the sensory-instrumental relationship was explored using multiple linear regression and comparing three mathematical models: a linear function, the Weber–Fechner law and the Stevens's power law, with the last two being well-established psychophysical models to translate instrumentally measured fabric properties into corresponding hand parameters. PRACTICAL APPLICATIONS The textile and clothing industry is increasingly interested in the development of tools to describe and grade the sensory quality of its products. Especially finishing companies, largely small and medium-sized, require objective methods for online controlling fabric handle and just-in-time setting their finishing machines and processes. Even if some industrial and commercial sectors have switched to trained sensory panels, this solution is difficult to apply in the textile finishing sector, that is more and more interested in instrumental methods for evaluating the effectiveness of finishing processes, checking the efficiency of machine operations and troubleshooting. This demand is undermined by the limited availability of skilled technicians able to use complex and costly fabric objective measurement systems, such as the Kawabata's Evaluation System for Fabrics one (KES-F), that, in addition, does not allow quick responses. This work proposed the reliable, simple and rapid measurement of hand-related properties, both mechanical and thermal, with FAST and Alambeta instruments, to be translated in a powerful prediction model for the human psychophysical perception of crispness and coolness hand of both winter and summer men's suit fabrics made from animal fibers (wool, mohair, cashmere and alpaca).