Everyday Wear Research Articles

Fashioning the nation in the age of populism

ABSTRACT Dress and fashion are both an important site and an idiom through which political conflicts, over cultural membership, such as national and ethnic belonging, are played out. In this article, I use Hungary as a case study to map the various ways in which fashion is used today in populist regimes to delineate the symbolic boundaries of the nation by generating powerful material and visual definitions of belonging, identity, sovereignty, community, traditional craftsmanship and shared heritage. I draw on ethnographic fieldwork and interviews I conducted in Hungary between 2017 and 2022 with the owners and designers of independent fashion labels that each stress the importance of incorporating ‘traditional’ Hungarian motifs into contemporary everyday wear. I show how these cultural producers normalize radical nationalism and imagine the nation through consumer communities, highlighting the significance of symbolic economies for populist rule. My analysis develops a relational and practice-oriented approach to consumer nationalism, expanding scholarship on the everyday mechanisms through which the national extends into the economic realm.

INNOVATIVE FOOTWEAR DESIGN FOR AUTISTIC INDIVIDUALS: MERGING AESTHETICS AND SENSORY NEEDS

The integration of repetitive visual patterns and geometric shapes in footwear design for autistic individuals presents an innovative approach that transcends mere aesthetics. This strategy aims to address the sensory and emotional needs of users, highlighting the importance of visual stimuli in promoting focus and mental organization—key elements for those facing sensory challenges. Research indicates that emphasizing symmetry and repetition in design can create visually pleasing footwear while also facilitating better concentration. Various studies suggest that the perceptual abilities and visual processing strategies of autistic individuals can be harnessed to foster richer and more effective learning experiences, aiding in the development of essential social and cognitive skills. Furthermore, the selection of comfortable materials and the consideration of ergonomic design are crucial to ensure that the shoes are not only visually appealing but also functional and comfortable for everyday wear. By focusing on these aspects, footwear can serve as more than just a fashion statement; it can become a tool for enhancing the quality of life for autistic individuals. The thoughtful combination of art, comfort, and sensory experience in shoe design promotes inclusion and celebrates the uniqueness of each individual. This approach fosters a deep connection between the user and the product, ultimately contributing to a more supportive and understanding environment for those on the autism spectrum.

Reviving, Reinventing and Rethinking an Indigenous Luxury Textile: Piña Cloth, and Fashion in the Philippines

Piña cloth, or textile woven from the delicate fibers of the pineapple plant used to be the epitome of luxury and high fashion in mid-nineteenth century Philippines. The weaving and wearing of piña experienced a rapid decline largely caused by the influx of British cotton textiles so that by the last half or the 20th century it had all but disappeared. This article analyses the history of reviving piña and its afterlives. It argues that reviving piña resulted in re-inventing new blended forms of the textile (with silk, cotton, and linen), and creating new ones such as piña shifu. Because these blended varieties are cheaper and faster to make, piña has been democratized. The revival process has caused a re-thinking of piña to make it “modern” and “chic”—from adding color to it (as traditionally it was worn in its natural ecru color), turning it into casual or everyday wear, and painting on it to make it wearable art. Finally, the revival project has also altered the status of weavers and challenged gender norms.

컴퓨터 설계와 3D 프린팅을 이용한 안와부의 맞춤형 보형물 제작

A facial defect can easily lead to psychological distress and social isolation due to its distinctive characteristics. Therefore, it is important to develop and appropriately offer personalized prostheses, even though the number of recipient may be limited. Since the manufacturing method for prostheses designed for stage or screen characters doesn't fundamentally differ from those personalized for everyday wear, special makeup artists can make a contribution to society as personalized prosthesis workers. This study aimed to investigate the manufacturing process for customized orbital prostheses, which can be produced and provided by special makeup artists, utilizing a digital approach. These prostheses target to address facial defects not covered by health insurance. Unlike traditional methods, this study adopted computer design and 3D printing technologies in restoring and making the prosthesis, ensuring that the results remain consistent regardless of a worker’s skill level. A customized orbital prosthesis may be prone to breakage due to its thinness at the center, and it is mot breathable because it is made of silicone rubber. This study proposed a method to reinforce the silicone to prevent easy breakage by using a reinforcing material and to address sweating by drilling a hole in the mold. The anticipated results are expected to serve as foundational data for developing a training manual aimed at educating personalized prosthesis workers.

Effect of Face Masks on Automatic Speech Recognition Accuracy for Mandarin

Automatic speech recognition (ASR) has been widely used to realize daily human–machine interactions. Face masks have become everyday wear in our post-pandemic life, and speech through masks may have impaired the ASR. This study explored the effects of different kinds of face masks (e.g., surgical mask, KN95 mask, and cloth mask) on the Mandarin word accuracy of two ASR systems with or without noises. A mouth simulator was used to play speech audio with or without wearing a mask. Acoustic signals were recorded at distances of 0.2 m and 0.6 m. Recordings were mixed with two noises at a signal-to-noise ratio of +3 dB: restaurant noise and speech-shaped noise. Results showed that masks did not affect ASR accuracy without noise. Under noises, masks did not significantly influence ASR accuracy at 0.2 m but had significant effects at 0.6 m. The activated-carbon mask had the most significant impact on ASR accuracy at 0.6 m, reducing the accuracy by 18.5 percentage points compared to that without a mask, whereas the cloth mask had the least effect on ASR accuracy at 0.6 m, reducing the accuracy by 0.9 percentage points. The acoustic attenuation of masks on the high-frequency band at around 3.15 kHz of the speech signal attributed to the effects of masks on ASR accuracy. When training ASR models, it may be important to consider mask robustness.

Facile and cost-effective fabrication of wearable alpha-naphtholphthalein-based halochromic sensor for wound pH monitoring

The sensor, designed to be worn directly on the skin, is suitable for real-time monitoring of the recovery level of not only general wounds, but also difficult-to-heal wounds, such as those with chronic inflammation. Notably, healthy skin has a pH range of 4–6. When a wound occurs, the pH is known to be approximately 7.4. In this study, alpha-naphtholphthalein (Naph) was immersed in a cotton-blended textile to produce a wearable halochromic sensor that clearly changed color depending on the pH of the skin in the range 6–9, including pH 7.4, which is the skin infection state. The coating was performed without using an organic solvent by dissolving it in micelle form using cetyltrimethylammonium bromide, a surfactant, in water. Naph-based halochromic sensor shows light yellow, which is the dye’s own color, at pH 6, which is a healthy skin condition, and gradually showed a clear color change to light green-green-blue as pH increased. Even after washing and drying by rubbing with regular tap water, the color change due to pH was maintained more than 10 times. Naph-based halochromic sensors use a simple solution production and coating method and are not only reusable sensors that can be washed with water but also use environmentally friendly water, making them very suitable for developing commercial products for wound pH monitoring. In addition, it can be easily applied to medical supplies, such as medical gauze, patient clothes, and compression bandages, as well as everyday wear, such as clothing, gloves, and socks. Therefore, it is expected to be widely used as a wound pH sensor, allowing real-time monitoring of the skin condition of individuals with chronic skin inflammation, including patients requiring wound recovery.

The therapeutic and prophylactic effect of children’s clothing

The article presents experimental research materials for the use of posture correctors in the design of children’s clothing with a preventive effect. A comparative analysis of the design based on the conditionally typical figure of a child with the design on figures with postural disorders was carried out. To develop a rational design of products that form normal posture, the dimensions and location of corrective straps and stiffeners have been determined. When designing preventive clothing, it is important to develop adaptive products that form normal posture in children, intended for everyday wear and including elements of posture correctors. Raising a healthy young generation and preserving them in difficult socioeconomic and natural conditions is a paramount task.

MAIN DIRECTIONS FOR THE DEVELOPMENT OF INNOVATIVE TECHNOLOGIES IN CREATING THE POWER SUPPLY SYSTEM OF “SMART CLOTHING”

The article analyzes the main directions of energy supply systems for “smart clothes”. The authors considered the most promising types of “smart clothes”, the work of which allows you to generate and ac- cumulate thermal and electrical energy in the process of everyday wear of clothes. The main parameters and characteristics of the considered areas of energy supply of “smart clothes”, namely “generator clothes”, which allow you to receive energy from a solar battery, generate motion, generate human body energy (sweat and body heat) and “battery clothes” are given. In conclusion, the main problems and directions for the development of research on the creation of an energy supply system for innovative clothing are outlined.

DR.BEAT: First Insights into a Study to Collect Baseline BCG Data with a Sensor-Based Wearable Prototype in Heart-Healthy Adults.

The DR.BEAT project aims at the further development of a measurement system for recording ballistocardiographic signals into a body-worn sensor system combined with extensive signal processing, data evaluation and visualization. With a first breadboard prototype, an explorative feasibility study for acquiring initial signals of healthy cardiac activity in adults was performed. This paper briefly presents the DR.BEAT project, the breadboard prototype, the study conducted, and initial insights into the study results. The signals obtained in the study exhibit the seismocardiographic characteristics as reported in the literature and form the basis for further development of the hardware as well as the pre-processing and automated analysis algorithms in the DR.BEAT project.Clinical Relevance- The characteristics of ballisto- and seismocardiographic signals allow to infer about the mechanical work of the heart. The development of a body-worn sensor system to record ballisto- and seismocardiographic signals, compact enough for everyday wear, enables the acquisition of heart-specific parameters in terrestrial as well as extraterrestrial application scenarios. Combined with extensive signal analysis and visualization, it holds the potential to monitor heart health in a variety of contexts and support its maintenance and improvement.

Temperature-Dependent Shape-Memory Textiles: Physical Principles and Applications

Textiles have been pivotal to economies and social relationships throughout history. In today’s world, there is an unprecedented demand for smart materials. The advent of smart textile fabrics, crafted from high-quality, high-performance fibers, has enabled the incorporation of specific functions into clothing and apparel brands. Notably, the rise of smart fabrics is evident in astronaut suits designed to regulate temperature and control muscle vibrations. Moreover, the scope of these products has expanded beyond everyday wear, encompassing fields such as medicine and healthcare, ecology/environmental protection, and military and aerospace. This review explores the recent advancements and challenges associated with intelligent fabrics, particularly temperature-dependent shape-memory metamaterials. The potential for innovative smart textile materials to enhance traditional fabrics’ overall functionality and utility is immense, especially in domains such as medical devices, fashion, entertainment, and defense. Crucially, ensuring user comfort is a primary consideration in these applications for promoting the widespread adoption of wearable devices. Developing smart textile devices necessitates a multidisciplinary approach that combines circuit design expertise, knowledge of smart materials, proficiency in microelectronics, and a deep understanding of chemistry and textile production. The synergy across these diverse fields is vital to unlocking the full potential of smart fabrics and enabling their broad implementation. By embracing this comprehensive approach, we can pave the way for groundbreaking advances in smart textile technology, driving innovation and progress in the field.

Linguistic and Culturological Commentary of Clothing Nominations in the Subdialects of the Middle Ob: Manufacturing Material

The article describes the features of linguistic and culturological commenting on lexical units related to the nominations of the traditional Russian costume. The focus is on the lexemes that denote the type of fabric. The research objective was to identify the cultural connotative component in the semantics of clothing nominations, associated with the fabric. The relevance of the study was in the fact that it made it possible to reveal the cultural component of the lexical meaning, objectifiedin the real communication of subdialect speakers. An attempt was made to reveal the cultural semantics of fabric names. This lexical group has never appeared in the focus of scientific attention. The study involved the speech of rural population from the Middle Ob region as it was recorded in the dictionaries of the Tomsk Dialect School and the Tomsk Dialect Corpus.The sampling procedure revealed more than two thousand linguistic units associated with clothes. The methods included interpretation, linguistic and culturological commentary, and systematization. The study defined the cultural connotative component of lexical meaning and three groups of fabric: 1) fabrics of industrial production intended for festive clothes, which demonstrated the wealth and status of the owner; 2) home-made fabrics for everyday wear; 3) seasonal materials of animal origin, which also characterized the status. The linguistic and cultural commentary revealed various characteristics of fabrics according to gender, season, social status, and routine vs. holidays. The parameters included utility, seasonality, prosperity, and status. They served as indicators of cultural traditions and can be interpreted as a cultural text represented through a linguistic and cultural commentary.

Isolation of Clinical Microbial Isolates during Orthodontic Aligner Therapy and Their Ability to Form Biofilm.

The purpose of this study is to calculate microbiological composition of aligners after a day of wearing them. To date, the dental market for orthodontists offers many ways to correct bites. Aligners are transparent and almost invisible from the teeth. They are used for everyday wear to correct the incorrect position of the teeth, which was once considered the prerogative of braces. Scientists worldwide have repeatedly considered questions regarding the interaction between aligners and the oral cavity's microflora; however, the emphasis has mainly shifted toward species composition and antibiotic resistance. The various properties of these microorganisms, including biofilm formation, adhesion to various cells, and the ability to phagocytize, have not been studied so widely. In addition, these characteristics, as well as the microorganisms themselves, have properties that change over time, location, and in certain conditions. In this regard, the problem of biofilm formation in dental practice is always relevant. It requires constant monitoring since high contamination of orthodontic materials can reduce the effectiveness of local anti-inflammatory therapy and cause relapses in caries and inflammatory diseases of the oral cavity. Adhesive properties, one of the key factors in forming the architectonics of biofilms, provide the virulence factors of microorganisms and are characterized by an increase in optical density, determining the duration and retrospectivity of diagnostic studies. This paper focuses on the isolation of clinical microbial isolates during aligner therapy and their ability to form biofilms. In the future, we plan to use the obtained strains of microorganisms to create an effective and safe biofilm-destroying agent. We aimed to study morphometric and densitometric indicators of biofilms of microorganisms persisting on aligners.

Controlling Bazaar, Fighting Precarity, and Producing the Nation

AbstractThis article focuses on production cycles of traditional embroidery making (yaka) in Turkmenistan. In Turkmenistan, yaka is a key element in the national dress for women's everyday wear and since the process of the embroidery making is often handmade, the distribution of yaka and the networks of producing and dealing this essential apparel offer a rich ethnographic context. The article focuses on the study of resellers and dealers who control the market flow and the precarious labor of those women who produce this highly valued handmade product in villages and households and then resell them at the major bazaar hubs in the central cities. At each stage, there is a quality, price and “tradition” control—whether the product adheres to the constructed but widely shared idea of the “national dress.” These relations are also imbued with logics of the gendered economy of respect for work and mutual help given the precarious circumstances of each individual yaka-maker. Yaka-making is seen by many women as a way out of financial crises, but it becomes a cycle of precarity based on the trends, demands, and forms of the formal dress requirement in the state institutions to which female clients have to adhere to when choosing the product. What influences the market flows in trends, supply, and everyday profit? How do women regulate the market from within despite the growing precarity? Studying these internal power relations will help us reveal how cultural and social control stems from the precisely political and male domination and how the rules of the game in that field are guided by completely different gendered and labor principles on the ground.

The Analysis of the Marketing Strategy of Lululemon Athletica

Nowadays, people are more and more aware of the importance of a healthy lifestyle, and how balancing daily life and exercise has become a problem for people to consider. This leads athleisure to become a new trend that allows people to have clothes that were designed for everyday wear but also fit for exercise. In this social context, the brand Lululemon is at the forefront of this trend, as a company that started by selling yoga products, it uses health ideology as a tool for business success. Can the way they use it be a reference for other brands, or is this a unique method for this brand. This thesis is an analysis of lululemon's marketing strategy, the push of the general environment, and their own product changes and upgrades. Lululemon is active in both online and offline marketing. They have expanded their market, which was originally focused on North America, to Asia and Europe to promote their concept and brand to this world and make more consumers recognize and feel a sense of belonging to the brand.

스몰웨딩 드레스 기획을 위한 판매 상품 및 소비자 선호도 분석

The purpose of this thesis is to consider the wedding dress designs preferred by the Generation MZ who are the core consumers of wedding market, in order to suggest wedding dresses suitable for the changed small wedding culture. For this, this study analyzed the designs of small wedding dresses currently sold in shopping malls, and then conducted a survey on the preferred designs of small wedding dresses targeting the Generation MZ, especially the unmarried women in their 20s-30s. The results showed the necessity to have the designs with practical image besides the dresses with elegant or classical image mostly shown in the existing wedding dresses, to expand the form from one-piece type with full-length & maxi length to various items of two-piece type such as jacket & skirt or jacket & pants, and to expand the color from white color to various colors like light gray, red, or navy color. It would be necessary to develop the design of wedding dress in the form of everyday wear. The results of this study could be working as the criteria of new wedding dresses for the Generation MZ who pursue such individual and practical wedding.

Linukaid võib kanda mitut moodi: ei ole õiget ega valet kandmisviisi / Linukas, traditional tailed coif, can be worn in many ways

Headwear is an integral part of any traditional set of women’s clothing. It varies a lot according to the region, age and social status of the wearer. In the present article, we focus on linukas or tailed coif: Estonian women’s traditional festive headwear (see photo 5) that was worn in Central and Northern Estonia in the 18th century (see the distribution map in drawing 3). During the first half of the 19th century, their use in everyday wear became more scarce and they were used mostly as bridal headwear. By the middle of the 19th century, they had disappeared from wider use. Tailed coifs were expensive garments that only the wealthiest peasants could afford, and were worn especially on festive occasions.
 The term linukas derives from the word lina, i.e linen. Originally it could denote a sheet of cloth that was tied around the head in the manner of a Mulgi woman’s headwear. A tailed coif (see drawing 2) consists of a decorated linen tail hanging on the wearer’s back and of a chaplet (pärg). When linukas was worn, hair was left loose, as it is depicted in the drawings and in the descriptions of the 18th century Estonian peasants. Some items have embroidered forehead bands that indicate the possibility of wearing the sheet without a chaplet. Linukas was made of fine linen or cotton; the tails were decorated with embroidery that used either white linen thread or black or coloured silk thread as the material. In addition to embroidered embellishments, metallic galloon trimmings and fringes could be attached to the items.
 Tailed coifs spread mainly in Järva, Northern Viljandi, Viru and Eastern Harju counties. These regions are known for good soils that sustain agriculture. Põltsamaa, a major town of the region, was historically known as an important crafts centre that drew skilled masters of German origin.
 Based on the composition of the embroidery on its hanging ends and how the tail was stitched together, two main types can be distinguished. The first group of tailed coifs, the items worn in the vicinity of Põltsamaa, have a twopart pattern, parted by the seam that is covered with metallic galloon trimming. Lower edges of the tail also have trimming and fringes. The second group includes coifs with a pattern covering the tail as a single composition and the seam is either on the side or underneath the tail. This type of tailed coif does not have fringes, but may have trimmings of galloon or lace. The main area of distribution of this type of coif is Järvamaa.
 Traditionally, folk costume has been described in terms of ethnography and art history. Less attention has been paid to the geographical distribution of certain items and the ways of wearing them. During recent decades, the study of traditional folk costume has become more technology-orientated and practice-based in Estonia. In our research, we mainly looked for the wear marks that can indicate how the pieces were tied onto the head.
 Currently, only one way of wearing tailed coifs prevails: it is customary to tie all the coifs and chaplets under the tail. In order to find out how these items were worn in the past, we examined 40 museum objects that could be identified as linukas or as some other item containing details from repurposed tailed coifs. The studied items belong to the collections of the Estonian National Museum, Järvamaa Museum and Estonian History Museum. Folds, traces of stitches, loose threads, stains, greasy areas and the length of the forehead bands, all convey important relevant information about the wearing patterns of the tailed coifs. Historical drawings and descriptions were also scrutinised. As a result, it was possible to distinguish six different ways of wearing a tailed coif:● Coif and chaplet are worn together; the tail of the coif is on top of the chaplet (drawing 4).● Coif and chaplet are worn together; the tail of the coif is underneath the chaplet (drawing 6).● Coif is worn without a chaplet; forehead band is tied underneath the tail (drawing 8).● Coif is worn without a chaplet; the ends of the forehead band are tied on top of the tail (drawing 10).● The ends of the forehead band are tied underneath the chin (drawing 11).● Coif and chaplet are worn together, chaplet is placed on top of the forehead band and the top of the head remains uncovered (drawing 12). Thence, our research indicates that there are several ways of wearing a tailed coif, not simply one indisputable one. Diversifying the tailed coif wearing styles helps to enrich our traditional looks.
 Keywords: headwear, folk costume, tailed coif, garments

Lighter and Simpler Design Paradigm for Widespread Use of Ankle Exosuits Based on Bio-Inspired Patterns.

Soft wearable robots are attracting immense attention owing to their high usability and wearability. In particular, studies on soft exosuits have achieved remarkable progress. Walking is one of the most basic human actions in daily life. During walking, the ankle joint has considerable influence. Therefore, an exosuit design paradigm having a light and simple structure was developed with the goal of fabricating a soft exosuit that supports the ankle. The new exosuit matches the performance of existing exosuits while being as comfortable as everyday wear. A walking test through a combination with a mobile actuator system, which can maximize these advantages, was also conducted. The combination with the mobile system demonstrates the potential of using the new ankle exosuit as inner wear that maximizes the advantages of a lighter and simpler design. The exosuit design paradigm could serve as an effective guideline for manufacturing assistive exosuits for various body parts in the future.

Нейроинтерфейсы: обзор технологий и современные решения

The purpose of this study is to provide an overview of the current state of neural interface technology and to compare their various modern implementations with each other, highlighting their advantages and features. The article considers the essence of the concept of "neural interface", its purpose, disassembled the structure of this technology and the principles underlying it, as well as classification according to various criteria. Examples of areas of activity in which this technology is currently used or can potentially be applied in the future are given. In addition, the most commonly used modern solutions are collected and analyzed in order to identify the most promising option in terms of functionality and convenience of everyday use. It has been established that the Emotiv Epoc neural interface has the widest functionality with comfortable everyday wear. It was also concluded that the areas of application in which solutions based on neural interfaces currently show the best results are medical diagnostics and remote control of electronic devices, as evidenced by the large number of projects involving neural interfaces in this area and a large number of articles, dedicated to them.

Stiffness optimization and reliable design of a hip implant by using the potential of additive manufacturing processes

BackgroundDue to the steadily increasing life expectancy of the population, the need for medical aids to maintain the previous quality of life is growing. The basis for independent mobility is a functional locomotor system. The hip joint can be so badly damaged by everyday wear or accelerated by illness that reconstruction by means of endoprostheses is necessary.ResultsIn order to ensure a high quality of life for the patient after this procedure as well as a long service life of the prosthesis, a high-quality design is required, so that many different aspects have to be taken into account when developing prostheses. Long-term medical studies show that the service life and operational safety of a hip prosthesis by best possible adaptation of the stiffness to that of the bone can be increased. The use of additive manufacturing processes enables to specifically change the stiffness of implant structures.ConclusionsReduced implant stiffness leads to an increase in stress in the surrounding bone and thus to a reduction in bone resorption. Numerical methods are used to demonstrate this fact in the hip implant developed. The safety of use is nevertheless ensured by evaluating and taking into account the stresses that occur for critical load cases. These results are a promising basis to enable longer service life of prostheses in the future.

Japan Beyond the Kimono: Innovation and Tradition in the Kyoto Textile Industry by Jenny Hall

Reviewed by: Japan Beyond the Kimono: Innovation and Tradition in the Kyoto Textile Industry by Jenny Hall Kaori Nakano (bio) Japan Beyond the Kimono: Innovation and Tradition in the Kyoto Textile Industry. By Jenny Hall. Bloomsbury, 2020. xxiv, 243 pages. $115.00, cloth; $36.95, paper; $33.25, E-book. It has been two years since the COVID-19 pandemic began at the end of March 2020, bringing international travel to a standstill. Until then, the Japanese fashion world had regularly traveled overseas to view new collections and exhibitions. Designers from other countries also visited Japan to promote their work, and reports on their latest offerings occupied the mainstream of Japanese fashion news. Suddenly, all of this came to a screeching halt. As if to fill this gap, the focus in Japan shifted to Japanese fashion brands and traditional Japanese culture—which, admittedly, were always present, but often went unnoticed and unremarked, obscured by the prestige of Western fashion. Today, however, Japanese fashion brands and luxury goods associated with traditional Japanese culture are increasingly featured in the fashion news, and many Japanese are beginning to "discover" and pay attention to the beauty and charm of their native tradition. The kimono is one of the products of Japanese culture that is attracting renewed attention at home. This reawakening of Japan to its own cultural legacy can perhaps be seen as a kind of de-colonization. Appearing fortuitously at this moment when the Japanese are taking a new interest in their fashion and its tradition, Jenny Hall's Japan Beyond the Kimono is an epochal and comprehensive exploration of the past, present, and future of the kimono and its world. Sustainability has become an important touchstone in recent years, but kimono were sustainable long before the term became a buzzword. Along with the knowledge for their proper wear and care, kimono are handed down through the generations from mother to daughter. When the fabric eventually begins to show signs of wear, the kimono will be refashioned into a cushion cover or other household object. As it finally reaches the end of its useful life, it will be recycled as a cleaning rag. The kimono is not just sustainable, it also endorses body diversity. Consisting of several rectangles of fabric, the kimono gently wraps bodies of all shapes, without forcing them into some oppressive "ideal" form. At a recent body diversity fashion show in Japan, a celebrity with prosthetic hands and legs wore a kimono, the body-positive garment creating an elegance that would not have been possible with a Western suit. Supporting sustainability, body diversity, and local industry, the kimono is in the limelight as a garment for our times. [End Page 255] And yet some, invoking the kimono's long tradition and historical weight, still insist on dogmatic rules for wearing kimono. These ultraconservative guardians—the "kimono police"—are always on the alert for any violations of the "proper" way to wear kimono and are eager to enforce orthodoxy. Lacking confidence about the proper way to wear kimono, most Japanese today are increasingly reluctant to don them on a daily basis. The kimono is now mostly limited to ceremonial occasions and special events, for which people call on a professional kimono master and hairdresser to dress them properly. Such formal kimono are often too tight and rigid to allow any extended activity and can even be hard to breathe in—another reason the kimono has come to be shunned as everyday wear. If the situation of the prospective kimono wearer is so daunting, the outlook for the kimono producer is even bleaker. A lack of successors to the elderly kimono craftspeople of the previous generation is putting many kimono workshops in danger of closure, and the precious lineage of traditional technical know-how is at risk of being severed. Most Japanese today are ignorant about both the kimono and the industry that produces it. While there are many books teaching the proper way to wear kimono, there are few books offering comprehensive information about the cultural significance of kimono or its industry, and probably very few Japanese even know how kimonos are actually made and distributed. Japan Beyond the Kimono investigates...