Durable Press Treatments Research Articles

Impact of dyes and finishes on the microfibers released on the laundering of cotton knitted fabrics.

The influence of common textile finishes on cotton fabrics on the generation of microfibers during laundering was assessed. Microfiber release was determined to be in the range of 9000-14,000 particles per gram of cotton fabric. Cotton knitted fabrics treated with softener and durable press generate more microfibers (1.30-1.63mg/g fabric) during laundering by mass and number than untreated fabric (0.73mg/g fabric). The fabrics treated with softener generated the longest average microfiber length (0.86mm), whereas durable press and water repellent treatments produced the shortest average microfiber length (0.62 and 0.63mm, respectively). In general, the changes in the mechanical properties of the fibers and fabrics due to the finishing treatments are the main factor affecting the microfiber release. The abrasion resistance of the fabrics decreases for durable press treatments and water repellent treatments due to the brittleness in the structure originated by the crosslinking treatment. In the case of the softener treatment, the fabric surface is soft and smooth decreasing the friction coefficient between fibers favoring the fibers loosening from the textile and resulting in a high tendency for fuzz formation and microfiber release. These findings are useful for the textile industry in the design and selection of materials and treatments for the reduction of synthetic or natural microfiber shedding from textiles.

Objective Evaluation of Durable Press Treatments and Fabric Smoothness Ratings

In this research, we validate an imaging system for automatic grading of fabric smoothness, developed at Texas Tech University. This system consists of a sheet-of-light, laser-line projector; a smart CMOS camera; a moving platform; and a PC. Its purpose is to provide the textile industry with a tool for rapid, objective evaluation of fabric smoothness after home laundering. The validation study involves two cotton fabrics treated with increasing amounts of a textile-finishing agent to impart durable press properties. The UATR-FTIR is used as a rapid and nondestructive technique to determine the amount of the crosslinking agent linked to the cellulose after the required laundering cycles. To demonstrate the potential of our newly developed imaging system, we extract five features from the acquired images and relate them to AATCC grading and to the amount of finish as evaluated by FTIR. Our results demonstrate that this new wrinkle measurement technology has the potential to discriminate between different levels of fabric treatments and different fabrics.

Effect of glycols and catalysts on cotton fabrics treated with glyoxal

The optimum conditions for durable press treatment of cotton fabrics using glyoxal as a nonformaldehyde crosslinking agent were investigated. Crosslinking reaction was conducted in the presence of different catalysts such as aluminum sulfate, magnesium chloride, or magnesium chloride-citric acid mixture at various mole ratios of catalyst to glyoxal. Aluminum sulfate was proven the most effective one among those used. Glycol addition into a glyoxal padding bath increased the wrinkle recovery angle(WRA) and whiteness of treated fabrics. The optimum mole ratio of glycol to glyoxal was 1:1. Diethylene glycol addition produced better overall performance to the glyoxal-crosslinked fabric compared to ethylene glycol addition.

Thermal characteristics of unsaturated dicarboxylic acid durable press finishing systems

AbstractThermoanalytical (TA) studies including differential scanning calorimetric (DSC) and thermogravimetric (TG) analyses were carried out to measure characteristics of dried mixtures based on two unsaturated polycarboxylic acids. Model 9% treatment (pad) solutions of maleic (M) and/or itaconic (I) acid, with and without potassium peroxydisulfate (K) as the free‐radical initiator, were prepared with sodium hypophosphite (H) as the catalyst and vacuum oven‐dried. DSC thermograms varied with each component; even the presence of a small amount of component K was evident. TG residue production and maximum rates of weight loss were the most useful thermal parameters. Residue/rate factors, used previously as predictors, were calculated. Previous studies indicated that high residues and low rates were indicators of combinations of reactants that resulted in good durable press treatments for fabrics. Residue/rate factors were used to rank the six mixtures that reflect actual fabric treatment combinations: MH, IH, MIH, and those same three with the initiator present. Rankings indicated that the presence of the initiator significantly increased the residue/rate factor for IHK and for MIHK. The presence of the initiator appears more beneficial to itaconic acid than to maleic acid. The rankings by the TA predictor agreed with textile properties measuring appearance and strength. © 1994 John Wiley & Sons, Inc.

Evaluation of Fabrics Woven with Durable Polymeric Sizing Agents

From a laboratory evaluation of yarns treated with various polymers, two poly acrylates and a polyurethane offered the potential for further evaluation in full scale slashing and weaving trials. These aqueous polymeric emulsions were applied at room temperature in various combinations to cotton warp yarns (19.7 mg/m). The warps were woven into a 163 g/m 2 poplin fabric. Weaving evaluation demonstrated that some formulations presented problems with yarn clinging and polymer deposits, but one formulation produced a weaving performance equivalent to that of a warp slashed with a conventional starch formulation. The polymers were still present on warp yarns after pilot plant scouring and bleaching of fabrics. Durability was determined by fabric properties and confirmed by infrared spectroscopy. Data are presented on the physical properties of bleached fabrics and the effect of laboratory dyeing, mercerization, and durable-press treatment of experimental fabrics compared to a control fabric. Polymers, used as permanent sizing agents, offer opportunities for energy savings, less water pollution, and improved fabric properties after finishing.

Stretch Mercerization of Cotton Fibers

In this investigation three techniques were developed by which cotton fibers in roving form were mercerized and stretched to their original length and then neutralized in the stretched configuration. The effectiveness of the three stretching systems was evaluated by testing the processed fibers and yams. The mechanical properties of the yarns made from stretch mercerized rovings were compared with those of yarns made of untreated fibers and slack mercerized fibers. Their properties were also compared with the properties of yams that were package mercerized and single strand stretch mercerized. The results show that a series of closely set rollers, gradually increasing in diameter from back to front, provide a reasonable device for stretching the individual fibers during mercerization. The yam produced from rovings with this technique shows superior properties over those of other methods studied in this investigation. Yarns made of stretch mercerized roving will have a higher strength retention after durable press treatment.

Chemical factors affecting soiling and soil release from cotton‐containing durable press fabrics. Part IX. Cotton bearing cyanoethyl substituents

AbstractThe soiling and soil release properties of cyanoethylated cotton fabrics with and without durable press treatment were examined. Cyanoethylation of cotton improved its resistance to aqueous and nonaqueous oily soiling. The same situation is encountered after durable press treatments. Partial conversion of the cyanoethyl groups to carboxyethyl groups caused further enhancement in aqueous soil resistance but impairs nonaqueous oily soil resistance, particularly after the durable press treatment.

Chemical factors affecting soiling and soil release from cotton‐containing durable press fabrics. Part X. Carbamoylethylation of cotton

AbstractThe effect of introducing carbamoylethyl groups in the molecular structure of cotton cellulose under aqueous and almost nonaqueous condition on the soiling and soil release properties of cotton fabrics before and after durable press treatments was investigated. Aqueous and nonaqueous oily soils were used. Carbamoylethylation decreased the susceptibility of cotton to aqueous as well as nonaqueous oily soils. Aqueous carbamoylethylation improves the soil resistance more than the almost nonaqueous carbamoylethylation. Crosslinking decreases the resistance of carbamoylethylated cotton to soiling.

Chemical factors affecting soiling and soil release from cotton‐containing durable press fabric. VIII. Grafting of polyester/cotton blend fabrics with carboxyl‐containing polymer

AbstractFabric samples of polyester/cotton blend were graft copolymerized to different levels (add‐ons) with poly(acrylic acid) and poly(methacrylic acid) using the mutual γ‐irradiation technique and the Fe2+–H2O2 redox system, respectively. The copolymers so obtained were given durable press treatments with and without conventional nonionic softener using DMDEU as the crosslinking agent. The susceptibility of the copolymers before and after crosslinking to aqueous and nonaqueous oily soiling and their ability to release the soils were examined. It was found that hydrophilization of the surface of polyester/cotton blend through grafting with the said carboxyl‐containing polymers brings about a significant improvement in the resistance of the blend to aqueous and nonaqueous oily soil particularly after crosslinking in presence of nonionic softener. A certain improvement in the ease of oily soil removal could be achieved by grafting. The opposite holds true for aqueous soil release. Soiling and soil release depends on the magnitude and method of grafting, medium of soiling, as well as the formulation of crosslinking treatments. The effect of grafting on some properties of the blend fabric before and after crosslinking was also examined.

Modifying Wear Life of All-Cotton Fabrics

The modifying effects of liquid ammonia as a final finishing treatment and as a pretreatment for durable press finish on wear performance of all-cotton broadcloth were investigated. Abrasion resistance and appearance retention were taken as indicators of wear life. Abrasion was monitored by Stoll flex abrasion in dry and wet conditions and repeated laundering. Abrasion resistance was assessed from residual breaking strength and elongation-at-break behavior of fabrics, whereas wrinkle recovery, dimensional stability, and whiteness retention gave a measure of appearance retention qualities. Liquid ammonia improved the tensile strength and Stoll flex abrasion in dry condition, as well as dimensional stability of cotton broad cloth. As a pretreatment for durable press finish, liquid ammonia significantly improved abrasion resistance, tensile strength retention, wrinkle recovery, and di mensional stability in cotton broadcloth relative to durable press treatment by itself.

Glyoxal as a Non-Nitrogenous Formaldehyde-Free Durable-Press Reagent for Cotton'

Glyoxal was found to impart a high degree of wrinkle resistance and smooth drying qualities to all-cotton printcloth. Certain aluminum salts were effective catalysts, the least fabric discoloration being produced with aluminum sulfate. Addition of ethylene glycol or glycerol to the treating solutions eliminated almost all of the discoloration and increased the durable-press appearance ratings. Evidence is presented that the catalytic activity of aluminum sulfate is not explainable on the basis of generation of sulfuric acid by partial hydrolysis of the aluminum salt, and that metal ion catalysis, as well as specific catalysis by hydrogen ions, may take place in the case of glyoxal crosslinking of cellulose. Unlike formaldehyde, glyoxal monomer, dimers, and trimers have structures favorable for chelation by polyvalent metal ions, and such complexes may play a part in the crosslinking reactions. At ordinary concentrations of glyoxal, the durable-press treatments produced very large strength losses in the fabric, but the use of high glyoxal concentrations resulted in large improvements in strength retention.

Wear Performance of Trousers Manufactured from a 3/1 Cotton Twill Fabric Finished with One of Four Processes for Durable Press

All‐cotton work trousers finished with two pad‐vapor‐set processes, a conventional pad‐dry‐cure, and a proprietary pad‐dry‐cure durable press treatment were exposed to wear and/or laundering and evaluated at intervals with regard to different performance characteristics. Thirty men em ployed in maintenance positions at Texas Woman's University served as the wear panel for 20 wear‐laundering periods. The results of the study showed that, generally, the pad‐vapor‐set pro cesses were evaluated as being the most desirable finishes for work trousers. Trousers thus finished were acceptable to the men who wore them as far as appearance and durability were concerned. Although the conventional pad‐dry‐cure and the proprietary finishes excelled in appearance, the short wear‐life of the trousers finished by these methods made them inappropriate for such end use.

Blocked isocyanate‐terminated prepolymers in a delayed‐cure durable‐press finish for wool. Influence of isocyanate and blocking group structure on reactivity

AbstractA series of prepolymers containing terminal blocked isocyanate groups was prepared by reaction of isocyanate‐terminated prepolymers [derived from a poly(propylene oxide) diol (MW = 2000) or a triol (MW = 3000) and different diisocyanates] with various blocking agents. Their curing rates with a polyepoxide crosslinking agent were measured to assess their suitability for a delayed‐cure durable‐press treatment for wool. The curing rates varied over a wide range, but commonly used blocking groups such as phenols, caprolactam, β‐diketones, and alcohols were not sufficiently reactive for the intended application, although others, e.g., oximes and certain blocking agents containing a basic center such as N,N‐diethylhydroxylamine, hydroxypyridines, and hydroxyquinolines, had the required reactivity. Blocking by 1,3‐dipolar cycloaddition of nitrones was examined, but the reactivities were too low. Prepolymers containing blocked aromatic isocyanates were more reactive than those containing blocked aliphatic isocyanates. Difunctional butanone oxime‐blocked pre‐polymers cured slightly more slowly than analogous trifunctional prepolymers.

Shrink-Resisting Wool with Poly(Dimethylsilozane)-α,ω-Diols and Aminofunctional Silane Crosslinking Agents

This and the following paper study shrink-resist finishes for wool using poly(dimethyliloxane)-α ω-diols (I) and poly functional silane crosslinking agents. In this paper treatment of wool fabric from organic solvents with the diols (I) of various molecular weights and a single silane, 3(2-aminoethylamino)propyltrimethoxysilane, (II) was examined in detail. Important factors for effective shrink resistance were the molecular weight of the diol (I), the concentration of amino functional silane (II), the extent of reaction before and after application to wool, the reaction with water, and the presence of an organotin catalyst or polyalkoxysilanes such as methyltrimethoxysilane. These findings were used to modify a commercial silicone shrink-resist finish for use in a durable press treatment.

Effect of Durable‐Press Resin Treatment on Tenacity and Elongation of Fiber from Upland Cotton Strains1

Untreated and mercerized fiber samples from 14 cultivars and breeding strains of Upland cotton (Gossypium hirsutum L.) were evaluated for changes in tenacity when given durable‐press (DP) treatment. The average loss of tenacity after DP treatment of untreated cotton was about 59%, with little variation among cultivars and strains. Mercerization increased fiber tenacity by 50%. The tenacities of premercerized‐resinated samples were 25% lower than mercerized but 12% higher than that of untreated fibers. Strength uniformity, the ratio of the tenacity at 3.2‐mm gauge length (T1) to the tenacity at 0‐gauge (T0), was negatively correlated with the ratio of T1 for premercerized DP‐treated samples to T1 for untreated samples.Results of the study support the use of T1 as a breeding criterion of high fiber quality. Strength uniformity may also be valuable for the selection of breeding strains because it is a measure of the stress points along the length of the cotton fiber.

Aluminum Salt Catalysts in Durable-Press Finishing Treatments

Because of dangers to the environment from disposal of solutions containing heavy metals, the textile chemical finishing industry has become more interested in catalysts based on light metals for durable-press treatments. During a broad study of catalysis in reactions between cellulose and N-methylolamide cross-linking agents, aluminum salts were recog nized as particularly effective catalysts for such treatments. Various types of aluminum salts and complexes were evalu ated to produce wrinkle-resistant cotton-containing fabrics. Among aluminum compounds investigated, alone and in combinations, were inorganic salts, basic inorganic salts, simple and polycarboxylic organic salts, phase-separation salts, and urea-complex salts. The powerful activity of many of these aluminum catalysts lowers the energy requirement of processing by promoting the finishing reactions at lower-than-usual temperatures or in very short treatment times at higher temperatures

Development of Resilience and Retention of Strength and Abrasion Resistance in Durable-Press-Treated Flame-Retardant Cotton Fabrics

Durable-press (DP) treatments were applied to cotton sheeting that was flame-retarded (FR) with 7 different types of commercial candidate finishes. The finishes, based on tetrakis(hydroxymethyl)phosphonium chloride (THPC), neutralized THPC (THPOH), Fyrol 76, and Pyrovatex CP were: THPOH-NH2, THPOH-urea-trimethylolmelamine, Proban-NH3, THPC-urea-Na2HPO4, Fyrol 76, Fyrol 76-N-methylolacrylamide, and Pyrovatex CP-methylolmelamine. Dimethyloldihydroxyethyleneurea in conjunction with glycolic acid was employed for the DP treatment of each type of FR cotton at each of three levels of add-on. Textile performance properties of DP-FR cotton fabrics are reported as a function of add-on of each of the FR finishes. The relationships of retained strength and abrasion resistance to developed resilience are discussed. Actual responses of the various types of FR cottons to DP treatments were quite different, but they were generally similar in that they showed decreased increments in DP appearance rating as the amount of FR agent on the fabric increased. Although some of the samples of DP-FR fabrics had DP appearance ratings that fell in an acceptable range (3.5-4.0), none exhibited a particularly attractive combination of resilience with retention of strength and abrasion resistance on this lightweight fabric. It is expected that overall performance would be better on heavier weight fabrics.

Analysis of Agent Migration during Durable-Press Treatments of Knitted Cotton Fabric

A method was developed to quantitatively assess lateral agent migration during controlled drying of knitted cotton fabrics impregnated with cellulose crosslinking agents. The influence of inorganic salts and a nonionic surfactant on migration was investigated. Reasons for this influence are indicated. Relative migration rates were established and results were applied to phenomena occurring during conventional drying conditions. Results are correlated with qualitative evidence of migration from resistance of crosslinked fabrics to direct dyes.

Solvent Finishing of Cotton and Cotton-Polyester Blends Part II: Emulsions for Durable-Press Treatments

Cotton and cotton-polyester blend fabrics were treated with dimethyloldihydroxyethyleneurea in the presence of a Lewis acid catalyst from perchloroethylene-water emulsions. Commercially available emulsifiers, crosslinking reagents. softeners, and catalysts were used in emulsions applied by pad-dry-cure and pad-steam-cure techniques. Final fabric properties were comparable to those obtained from all-aqueous formulations.

Moisture-Related Properties of Cotton-Polyester Blend Fabrics

The moisture-related properties of a series of cotton-polyester blend broadcloths and sheetings were investigated. The composition of the broadcloth ranged from all-cotton to 68% polyester and 32% cotton, and the sheeting varied from all-cotton to 50% polyester and 50% cotton. The moisture properties measured were drop absorbency, wicking time, moisture regain, vapor transport, liquid transport, and total absorbency. The fabrics were tested untreated and finished with various durable-press treatments. Chemical additives either decreased or increased a number of measured moisture properties, some of which might be related to comfort.