Domestic Clothing Research Articles

Philanthropic Fashion: Ireland, 1887–1897

During the nineteenth century a number of aristocratic women promoted British-made textiles by wearing garments made from domestic cloth. Royalty, too, regularly endorsed this British-made cloth by wearing gowns of British manufacture frequently trimmed with English or Irish lace. Beginning in the late 1880s, however, a more organized and sophisticated relationship developed between Irish textiles and fashion and, by the 1890s, this link was both assiduously promoted and systematically marketed. The Irish Industries Association, founded by Ishbel, Countess of Aberdeen in 1886 to promote craft and alleviate poverty in Ireland, was supported by a number of British and Irish aristocrats. The Association organized exhibitions in London, established a rapport with women’s magazines, such as Lady’s Pictorial, Gentlewoman and Queen, The Lady’s Newspaper, and encouraged fashionable shops to view, buy and promote garments made from Irish wool, lace and linen. Thus Irish textiles moved from the Celtic fringe to the metropole, and from there on to the bodies of the rich and famous. It is this highly organized appeal to consumers that I shall explore here as philanthropy colluded with the market to produce fashion.

Characteristics of Clothing Purchase Behavior in Korean Consumers of Living in America - Focusing on the Aspect of Size -

The purpose of this research is to suggest data available for being conducive to establishing a marketing strategy such as size of domestic clothing in global brand and producing a product of increasing consumers' satisfaction with the fit based on this research. A total of 177 questionnaires obtained from South Koreans in their 20s~50s who dwell in the state of North Carolina in America. The results follow; first, what there is significant difference in clothing purchase behavior of Koreans living according to income, duration of residence. Second, the reason for preferring Korean clothing according to educational level was the highest in the ratio of the response as saying of being 'size' with a decrease in the item of 'design'. This was because the higher in age and educational level leads to the more rise in importance of size according to a change in body type. Third, the outcome of evaluation on the fit by body part in American clothing was the largest in the response as saying of being 'similar' in the items of chest, waist, neck, arm, wrist circumference and crotch length.

Wool and cloth production in late medieval and earlyTudorEngland

Estimates of wool production based on the exports of wool and cloth, and an assumption that domestic cloth consumption was, optimistically, constant, suggest that wool production fell by almost a third from the early fourteenth to the mid‐fifteenth century, and had not fully recovered even by the mid‐sixteenth century. However, after theBlackDeath, much ofEngland's arable was converted to pasture, mainly for sheep, and this process accelerated after 1470. These two observations are contradictory. This article provides new numbers of adult sheep based on estimates of domestic cloth consumption, cloth exports, the changing weight of cloth, and fleece yields. The conclusion is that the adult sheep population only declined by around 13 per cent from 1310 to 1440, and had risen dramatically by the mid‐sixteenth century.

Appropriate reactions to globalisation? Interest group theory and trade associations in clothing between 1970 and 2000 – a comparison between Denmark and Sweden

Today both Denmark and Sweden are successful fashion exporters due to the re-export of clothing designed in Scandinavia and produced in low-wage countries, while domestic clothing manufacturing has become almost non-existent over the past 20 years. This article compares the strategies of Danish and Swedish trade associations in clothing manufacturing and discusses whether or not the associations encouraged the abandonment of local manufacturing and adoption of global value chains. The analysis is carried out on the basis of interest group theory as developed by Mancur Olson and others, and the findings confirm that interest group influence can entail long-term negative effects, but also that variations in institutional settings are decisive.

Noise Control of Home Appliances — The Green Way

Material used for noise control applications should possess good sound absorption and dampening properties. In this work, the authors have focused on noise control applications of novel material made of jute which is a readily available, cheap and biodegradable natural fiber. Based on physical, flammable and acoustical properties, jute felt shows good sound absorption properties which has been used for noise control in a domestic clothes dryer and a vacuum cleaner. The noise sources in these appliances were ranked by measuring their radiated sound intensity levels. An overall reduction of radiated noise levels of 6 dB and 10 dB were obtained in the domestic dryer and the vacuum cleaner, respectively, by using the developed jute felt.

Injuries sustained by children inside clothes dryers: a report of a fatality and review of the literature

We report a case of a 4-year-old child found dead at his home inside a domestic clothes (tumble) dryer. The child had been reported missing in the morning by his mother and found a short time later inside the dryer with the door shut. The child was pronounced dead at the scene. A pre-autopsy computed tomography scan identified findings associated with aggressive resuscitation attempts. Post-mortem examination showed generalised blunt trauma to his head and limbs, a thin film subdural haemorrhage and burns from contact with hot components and hot air whilst being trapped alive inside the active dryer. A forensic examination of the dryer revealed that it was possible for the child to become trapped in the dryer by his own action and that the dryer could operate for sufficient time to allow for the causation of the injuries to the child. A review of the medical literature and media reports of deaths related to clothes dryer, injuries sustained to survivors and use of dryers as a body disposal site is presented.

Research on the Development of Clothing Brand Position under the Modern Consumer Culture

For the vague positioning of the domestic clothing brand at present and the growing homogenization of products, this article analyzed the features of the modern consumer culture, pointed out the existing problems to the clothing brand development, and introduced a correct countermeasure to guide the market. The author tries to find a developing way to the clothing brand and provide an idea for the marketing strategies for the Chinese clothing enterprises and for the plan of development.

해외 생산업체에 대한 국내 의류업체의 생산환경 및 근로기준 인식에 대한 질적 연구

Today Korean clothing companies are experiencing difficulties in the global market due to unfavorable business conditions including poor production environments, labor shortage, rising costs, the further opening of the domestic distribution market, and increased competition among them. As a result, this has caused many of Korean clothing companies to transfer their production bases abroad in search of relatively inexpensive labor force, instead of using domestic plants. This study attempted to examine how Korean clothing companies perceive production environments and labor standards with regard to their offshore outsourcing. In such an attempt, in-depth interviews were conducted with 24 brand-name clothing firms. Those interviewed firms were the brands for the domestic or foreign market that were found to produce more than 200,000 pieces of clothing per year, and also the group of interviewees included some promotion service providers. The key findings from this study are as follows: First, a large number of the interviewed clothing companies were found to manage their foreign contract manufacturers by "visiting their factories regularly on a seasonal basis" or "stationing their personnel in factory for management purposes." Second, in relation to quality control in their foreign manufacturers, the most frequent response was to "have personnel stationed in those manufacturers." A smaller number of the clothing companies answered that they had "engaged their production management teams in quality control from time to time," or "used their inspectors to inspect products." Third, when asked about labor standards in foreign contract manufacturers, the largest number of the clothing companies responded, "we apply our own standards." The results of this study suggest that most of domestic clothing companies still use offshore sourcing just as a means of reducing their initial labor costs. However, in the continuously changing environment of the global clothing industry, clothing businesses are required to escape from the early phases of their manufacturing environments and set up more globalized standards.

Design and Construction of a Computer Controlled Clothes Washing Machine

In this work we develop a computer software for controlling the operations of a domestic clothes washing machine. The valves, pump, electric motor and other sensitive parts were computer-controlled. In the design, the mechanical timer’s function were replaced by a software driven emulator which then controls components of the machine to carry out specific tasks at pre-determined intervals. The software was written using MicrosoftVisual C++ for the IO.DLL File, while the control codes were developed using Microsoft Visual Basic Language. The software performed accurately and efficiently.

Thermal analysis of a new concept in a household clothes tumbler dryer

This paper presents a theoretical and experimental study of a novel water heat exchanger that heats the air in a domestic clothes tumbler dryer in place of a traditional electric heater, with a view to improve its energy efficiency. Modelling of a waste heat recovery heat exchanger has been undertaken using EES software package to assess its effectiveness on the drying cycle. The new dryer was found to have shorter drying times, better moisture extraction rates for the same power input and hence more efficient than the traditional dryer.

A Survey on the Ease of Jacket and Lining Fabrics that made of Stretchable Fabrics

The purpose of this study is to analyze the ease of stretchable jackets which has been common since the mid-1990s and the whole actual conditions in making the lining fabrics. This can be done by investigating the actual conditions of domestic clothes businesses about the consumers. The outcomes of this study are as follows; The result of the survey in the differences of the ease between regular and stretchable fabrics shows that the pattern of designing stretchable fabrics needs diminishing the width of shoulder is 0.42cm, the whole girth chest is 1.83cm, the whole girth of waist is 0.88cm. It also shows that designing the ease of the whole girth of chest is 1.91cm to 2.54cm in the regular lining fabrics and is from 0 to 1.27cm in the stretchable fabrics more than the right side of fabrics. The ease of the whole girth of waist is similar to the round chest, in which the bottom sweep for garment is almost equal to the right side of fabrics in both regular lining fabrics and stretchable fabrics. The result of investigating the actual conditions of making the lining fabrics of stretchable jacket fabrics shows that 80% of a woman's wear brand produces and gives the pattern of the lining fabrics only for the special designing to the cooperative clothes manufactures. The business which always provides the patterns for the lining fabrics in the main office is only limited to 20%. Also, it shows that using the lining fabrics of stretchable jacket fabrics and regular lining fabrics together is 46.7%, the stretchable lining fabrics is 40% and the regular lining fabrics is 13.3% only.

The Indonesian consumer market for clothing: Institutions, firms and organizational behaviours

The clothing industry is widely cited as an industrial sector that is embedded primarily in buyer-driven structures of global commodity chains in which retailers and brand-name companies, rather than manufacturers, are the key driving forces. Analysis of clothing production systems within the commodity chain literature, however, has been predominantly Western-centric, with little emphasis on similarities and/or differences between competitors in different institutional and societal contexts. Therefore, this paper explores the ways in which international and domestic clothing brand-owners compete for market shares within Indonesia. The analytical focus includes important issues such as the influence of the regulatory policy framework on firm-specific behaviour as well as applied marketing strategies within individual fashion segments.

Actual Usage Conditions, Energy Savings and Associated Emission Reductions of Washing Machines

About 19% of the total electricity production is consumed in the residential sector and this fraction is expected to grow in future. Air conditioners, refrigerators, washing machines and other appliances are major energy users in this sector. In this paper, the energy consumption of 50 real-houses domestic clothes washers have been monitored to give an overview of the usage pattern of this appliance in Malaysian households. A questionnaire was designed to get relevant information regarding the usage of this appliance in the actual environment as well. This information is paramount in shaping or implementing a program that would get more support from users. Finally, energy savings, bill savings and CO2 reductions associated with energy savings have been calculated and presented in this paper for using horizontal axis machines rather than vertical axis using actual monitored data.

Comparison of different life‐cycle impact assessment methods for aquatic ecotoxicity

Human and ecotoxicity impact categories are problematic to quantify within life-cycle impact assessment (LCIA) because their local scope makes them difficult to aggregate with the traditional global-impact categories used in life-cycle assessment (LCA). For being able to assess local impacts such as toxicity, LCIA developers increasingly include fate modeling into LCA. This article follows this development by comparing different LCIA methods for aquatic ecotoxicology and by investigating the importance of fate within LCIA, the necessity of considering freshwater and seawater compartments separately, and the key degradation and intermedia transfer processes involved. The methods are compared by assessing an example study of domestic clothes washing in former West Germany. Four LCIA methods are selected and applied to four substances emitted during the washing process. The conclusion is that the consideration of environmental fate does matter and that aquatic ecotoxic impacts can differ significantly for the same substance in freshwater and in marine ecosystems. The way (bio)degradation, photolysis, volatilization, and transfer from agricultural soils are considered plays an important role as do the system boundaries chosen. This means that the LCIA methodology should remain flexible so that appropriate methods can be chosen for different applications. Fate models being developed in the environmental risk assessment of chemicals can contribute to the further improvement of LCIA methods.

COMPARISON OF DIFFERENT LIFE-CYCLE IMPACT ASSESSMENT METHODS FOR AQUATIC ECOTOXICITY

Human and ecotoxicity impact categories are problematic to quantify within life-cycle impact assessment (LCIA) because their local scope makes them difficult to aggregate with the traditional global-impact categories used in life-cycle assessment (LCA). For being able to assess local impacts such as toxicity, LCIA developers increasingly include fate modeling into LCA. This article follows this development by comparing different LCIA methods for aquatic ecotoxicology and by investigating the importance of fate within LCIA, the necessity of considering freshwater and seawater compartments separately, and the key degradation and intermedia transfer processes involved. The methods are compared by assessing an example study of domestic clothes washing in former West Germany. Four LCIA methods are selected and applied to four substances emitted during the washing process. The conclusion is that the consideration of environmental fate does matter and that aquatic ecotoxic impacts can differ significantly for the same substance in freshwater and in marine ecosystems. The way (bio)degradation, photolysis, volatilization, and transfer from agricultural soils are considered plays an important role as do the system boundaries chosen. This means that the LCIA methodology should remain flexible so that appropriate methods can be chosen for different applications. Fate models being developed in the environmental risk assessment of chemicals can contribute to the further improvement of LCIA methods.

Femmes, marchés et production textile au Nouveau-Brunswick au cours du XIXe siècle

Abstract. Women, markets and domestic cloth production in New Brunswick in XIXth century. Until recently, the perpetuation of domestic cloth production in Eastern Canada in the XIXth century has been blamed on poverty. Farm households lacked the resources to acquire factory made fabric from the stores. They were obliged to try to be self sufficient in cloth. In New Brunwick however, other factors seem to have facilitated and even encouraged domestic textile production. The situation corroborates the hypothesis recently put forward by Canadien historians. Domestic cloth production was facilitated by the development of a local infrastructure (carding mills) and the availability of factory made cotton warp. It was meant for barter and market exchanges as well as for self consumption. Women were the ones who wove, and must have found the activity worth their while as domestic cloth fetched high prices and generated comfortable profits. Female weavers consequently could expect to earn almost as much as male wage earners.

Attitudes Toward Imported and Domestic Apparel Among College Students: The Fishbein Model and External Variables

The purpose of this study was to test the role of external variables on attitudes toward imported and domestic apparel among college students by utilizing Fishbein's Attitude Model. External variables included demographics, clothing attitudes, students' self-perceptions, and level of fashion involvement. Data were obtained from a questionnaire that was completed by 741 students enrolled in randomly selected classes at a major Western university. Statistical analysis of results included t-tests, stepwise multiple regression, and stepwise discriminant analysis. The attitude toward imported clothing was influenced by the level of fashion involvement, the prestige clothing attitude, the social activities clothing attitude, and social acceptance, in that order of importance. The attitude toward domestic clothing was influenced by the level offashion involvement, social acceptance, the social activities clothing attitude, and the garment styling clothing attitude, in that order of importance. Overall, students indicated a more favorable attitude toward domestic apparel than imported apparel. Those who preferred imported apparel and those who preferred domestic apparel were identified. The prestige clothing attitude, age, race, and major appeared as discriminant variables between attitude toward imported clothing and attitude toward domestic clothing.

Does attitude predict purchase behaviour of apparel products?

During the 1980s the world market in textile and apparel products has become increasingly internationalized. Retailers in Western Europe and North America import goods from around the world, often at the expense of domestic manufacturers. In an effort to encourage consumers to buy locally manufactured products, associations in several countries have tried to change consumer attitudes toward domestically produced textiles and apparel.The goal of this study was to assess the relationship between consumer attitude and consumer behaviour in an apparel purchase. Intercept surveys were conducted with 3,766 consumers in nine locations in the eastern U.S.A. Consumers were questioned about their attitudes toward domestic versus imported clothing and their awareness of the country of origin of their purchase. Reasons for purchase and demographic information were also collected. Some differences between variables were found related to sex, age and geographic location. While it was evident that a large proportion of the consumers sampled said they cared whether the clothing they purchased was domestically produced or imported, a far smaller proportion was aware of the country of origin of the garment just purchased. Therefore, a consistent link between consumers' professed attitudes and their buying behaviour could not be established. Summary and conclusions The consistency of consumer attitudes with consumer behaviour was assessed for a sample of U.S.A. apparel purchasers. Respondents in the eastern U.S.A. were asked about their awareness of and concern with their garment's place of production. Although some differences were found related to sex, age and geographic location, the lack of consistency between attitudes and behaviour was a common phenomenon. Of the total sample, only 20% professed both concern and awareness of their garment's country of origin. In contrast, 60% knew of the ‘Crafted with Pride’ campaign, 44% expressed concern for place of production, and 28% said they knew where the garment just acquired had been manufactured.These relatively low percentages may be due in part to the demographics of the consumers surveyed. This study included a high proportion of females, young and middle‐age shoppers. This sample composition is consistent with other research citing these groups as the most frequent apparel purchasers. The results of this study indicate that the oldest age groups and male shoppers are most likely to be aware and concerned. This suggests that those wanting to change attitudes and/or behaviour need to target the groups most likely to be spending on apparel, females, young and middle‐age groups. These consumers appear to be the least motivated by patriotic appeals or to base purchase decisions on cues such as country of origin.People from the south, who were more likely to be directly affected by the textile industry, generally were more aware, expressed a higher level of concern, and were more likely to know of the ‘Crafted with Pride’ campaign. Since the south has not been selectively targeted by the ‘Crafted with Pride’ Council, it is very possible that the demographics and personal link of southerners to the apparel and textile industries may be more influential than the Council's media campaign.While it is true that concern, awareness, and knowledge of the campaign are highly correlated, what has not been determined is the causal relationship between these three variables. Does knowledge of the campaign cause one to care more and therefore be more likely to be aware? Or does caring make consumers more susceptible to patriotic appeals and more likely to say they are aware when they really may not be? It has been determined that people who are aware are more likely to care and know of the campaign; it has not been determined that people with knowledge of the campaign will be more aware and therefore guided in their purchase decisions.The intense media campaign by the ‘Crafted with Pride’ Council suggests that the level of concern for domestic clothing production may be influenced by the level of marketing effort. However, the Council's expected behavioural effect of raising the number of potential clothing buyers who actively seek out and purchase American‐made apparel was not displayed by respondents in this study. Since it is consumers who ultimately make the final purchase decision, industry representatives and legislators should examine more closely the link between attitudes and action before making production and public policy decisions that will have significant economic effects on all parties concerned.

From Calpixqui to Corregidor

It was more than 160 years from the Spanish conquest to the establishment of the first cotton obrajes, workshops in which cotton cloth was woven by European techniques under Spanish control (Bazant, 1964: 493). Throughout this period, women continued to produce cotton textiles in their households, following work patterns developed over three millennia. How did the Spanish colonists extract value from domestic cloth production during this interval? The economist Barbosa-Ramirez (1971: 86-87, 136-141) has pointed out that in the early colony a complex interrelation between Spanish and indigenous modes of production evolved in which the former dominated and modified the latter. However, historians have not explored this interrelationship closely with respect to cotton textile production and distribution. This article will examine the appropriation of surplus labor from indigenous women in the form of cotton textile products in the early colony, before any substantial obraje production of cottons had been instituted. Colonial sources show that domestic production of cotton textiles provided cloth for all sectors of society: for urban laborers and miners, rural cultivators, local indigenous elites, Spanish and creole households, churches, and hospitals. I therefore suggest that women's labor within their own households was an integral part of the colonial socioeconomic structure. We know that capitalist production for a mass market began with the manufacture of large quantities of cotton (as opposed to woolen or silk)

An Analysis on the Change of the Internal Structure of Urban Family

The aim of this paper is to clarify the difference of the internal structure between two family patterns, one is composed of the “working wife”, and the other is composed of the “non-working wife”.The development of industry causes the gradual separation between the place of production and that of consumption. In general, housewives of urban family are ordained to function, out off from the place of production, only in the place of consumption. These prescriptions have some influence on fixing the status of housewives in the family study, so that it is imagined that housewives should devote themselves to the domestic affairs and nursing. This fact is apparent from the example that T. Parsons and others, including some Japanese scholars, point out the “working wife” as “the deviant”.But I take a serious view of the differences between these theories and actual conditions. In Japan, the rate of “working wife” is 52.4 percent of all working women in 1960. Since the war, that percentage is continually increasing. As far as these facts are concerned, at least, I think that T. Parsons and other's schemata don't reflect the actual conditions of Japan.I want to make an approach to the family especially to the internal structure of the family that reflects these reality. And in this note, the internal structure analysis focuces on the decision making process and the devision of labour in the family. Because, there are three fundamental differences between the “working wife” and the “non-working wife” as a social existence. Those are differences of having or not having income, of how to use the time in living and of action areas. And I think these three differences must infuence the decision making process and the devision of labour in the family. Standing on these viewpoints, I undertook intensive interviewing-research about 60 families of primary school teachers in Sapporo, Hokkaido.Summary:—(1) According to the trend which the actual materials show, the decision making process and the division of labour can be typed into next three patterns.* I=Participant in decision making process-Ia= Final decision maker-Ib= FollowerII=Non-Participant in decision making processAnd these three patterns differ in each of the five parts of family affairs—the management of household economy, the management of general domestic food, clothing and habitation, nursing, the education of children, and the social intercourse.(2) The first distinctive feature that the difference of the “working wife” and the “non-working wife” influences the internal structure of each family appears to be the difference of management of general domestic affairs and nursing. In these parts, the “non-working wife” reigns over the family as an expert. And the division of labour is as following; a husband takes the role of earning a living, a wife takes the role of domestic affairs and nursing. On the other hand, in the case of the family of the “working-wife”, there is a tendency that these family affairs are done in cooperation with some members of the family. Or a part of these functions seems to be transfered to society. I think that the difference of these parts is based upon the difference of how to use the time in living.(3) But, secondly, these non-working wives, being expert of routine household work are more dependent on husbands than the working wives, in the case of large domestic economy. Eventually, a husband of the “non-workingwife” has more chances to become a leader than the “working wife's” one. And these differences are prescribed by the difference of having or not having income.(4) The third distinctive feature is the influence which the difference of the structure of consiousness of housewives has upon the internal structure of each family. The differ