Tea from Anxi County (Fujian Province, China) has a reputation for high quality, carried on the notion of terroir , that the age-old landscape and enduring local traditions contribute to its distinctive taste. This paper examines the process by which the imagined agricultural place of Anxi has been constructed through a period of social and economic change across recent decades. It demonstrates that producers draw on historical narrative to renew links between the land, the people and their embodied practices, and the tea plants to generate mythologies around the past and foster perceptions of authenticity, further reinforced by the building of monuments that memorialize Anxi tea history. Rather than coherent and coordinated, this is a fraught place-making process, beset by conflicting stories that retell the past in different ways, geographic boundaries that are debated and redrawn, and contentious, evolving tea manufacturing techniques. This study shows that the terroir discourses of globalization may give rise to striking paradoxes at the local level.