Costume Design Research Articles

Review of The Buccaneers, Apple TV+

Abstract On 8 November 2023, Apple premiered an adaptation of The Buccaneers, created by Katherine Jakeways. The series revives the nineteenth century using lush production and costume design to comment anew on class division, race relations, and, above all, gender imbalances. Inevitably compared to Netflix’s smash Regency romance, Bridgerton, the series is more like Sofia Coppola’s Marie Antoinette, for it incorporates deliberately anachronistic music and contemporary speech to emphasize that the romantic and familial struggles of its characters resemble those of contemporary women. While it alters and embellishes Wharton’s original narrative, it retains the novel’s insistent critique of social rigidity and, surprisingly, introduces welcome nuance. In its own way, it follows Wharton in imagining a more modern existence of female freedom and solidarity.

‘Anyone Can Put On Clothes, Right?’: Costume Design and Styling as Women’s Work in Dutch Media Production

Over the last thirty years, the frustrations of women working in costume design and styling in the Dutch film and television industry with their poor working conditions and lack of recognition have grown strong enough to now culminate in a form of collective resistance. At the cusp of what might be a turning point, this article locates the key developments that have led to this moment at the intersection of the peculiarities of this national media industry, the way costume design and fashion are culturally rendered shallow and feminine, and the repercussions of gender for this trade. It suggests that the grassroots collectivisation of costuming staff in the Dutch media industry challenges the postfeminist tendency to individualise workers’ problems.

Auditory time travel: Acoustic notes on the virtual reality reconstruction of the Queen's theatre (Adelaide, 1841)

This paper presents the results of an international interdisciplinary effort to reconstruct the Queen's Theatre in Adelaide as it stood on its inaugural debut in 1841. Our collaborative approach brings together real actors, set and costume designers, architects, virtual reality (VR) developers, motion capture specialists, and acoustic engineers in order to reproduce, as realistically as possible, the opening night monologue by Mr Gustavus Arabin. By combining the modelled ambisonics room impulse responses with a proprietary algorithm, we achieved an authentic representation of the historical environment both visually and acoustically by allowing the user to immerse themselves in the space at several locations within the theatre. Central to our VR reconstruction is the ability of our software to combine auralisations from multiple sound sources simultaneously as well as allowing the user to upload user-generated anechoic files. The paper focuses on the acoustic nuances throughout the VR reconstruction, providing a comprehensive overview of collaborative endeavours and technological advancements enabling users to grasp and appreciate the acoustic intricacies of Queen's Theatre. Emphasising the acoustic dimension of the space underscores the potential of our virtual model to serve as a dynamic platform for historical exploration, research, and educational pursuits.

The Mistress of Bond: Eileen Sullivan, and the Role of Cutting the Cloth of James Bond's Wardrobe and Beyond

This article spotlights the work of Eileen Sullivan and her career as a wardrobe mistress, later wardrobe supervisor, which included working on the James Bond films from Dr No (1962) until You Only Live Twice (1967). It will further consider how her career and role as a wardrobe mistress and supervisor changed within the British film industry from the mid-1940s until the mid-1980s, through personal papers shared by her family with me. Alongside this, the article draws upon papers available in the Film Finances Archive, the British Film Institute (BFI) and the British Library. This article will work to redress the absence in scholarship on the labour provided by costume workers below that of the costume designer, which as Melanie Williams (2016) has previously recognised, has been rendered invisible despite their costume work appearing on screen that contributes to the overall visual coherence of a film’s design. It will also address the difficulties of researching the work of wardrobe personnel who have hitherto remained unacknowledged in broader scholarship, and analyse the role of the wardrobe mistress and supervisor including agency and labour, and the impact of caring responsibilities on this ‘gendered’ role.

The Application of Traditional Plant Patterns in Modern Clothing Design

The development of traditional Chinese patterns is closely related to social development. As a part of traditional Chinese patterns, the application of plant patterns in costume design is also closely related to politics, economy, and culture. The application of plant patterns in costume design in different dynasties has different characteristics. It has become an indispensable part of dress design, and the formed dress culture has a profound influence on modern dress design. The application of traditional plant patterns in modern clothing design can not only increase the beauty and cultural connotation of clothing but also bring the meaning of purifying the soul and edifying the sentiment to the viewers and users. Therefore, based on discussing the development of traditional plant patterns in clothing design, this paper analyzes the meaning of traditional plant patterns in clothing design and puts forward effective strategies to do a good job in the application of traditional plant patterns in modern clothing design.

Cross-cultural design in costume: case study on totemic symbols of China and Thailand

Cross-cultural design has emerged as a pivotal domain of significance within the context of globalization. In the field of cross-cultural design, designers are tasked with addressing user requirements and identity characteristic contexts across diverse cultural backgrounds, aiming to achieve enhanced service delivery and cultural dissemination outcomes. Nonetheless, the landscape of contemporary fashion design research exhibits a noticeable dearth in studies that effectively integrate with cross-cultural design. This study selects the iconic cultural symbols of the Chinese loong (dragon) and Thai naga as case subjects, embarking upon research that employs costume design as a medium and bridge for cross-cultural design and communication. The research methodology integrates qualitative and quantitative approaches, including field investigations, participatory research, and Analytic Hierarchy Process (AHP) analysis, thereby substantiating theoretical constructs through empirical investigation. The study proposes that cross-cultural costume design, undertaken with the purpose of cross-cultural communication, can be conceptualized as a cyclical process involving multiple encoding and decoding iterations. The research elaborates on how costume, functioning as a non-verbal language, serve as a medium for facilitating cross-cultural interactions. Furthermore, the design extraction of cultural symbols is approached through a four-tiered framework. By articulating its research perspective, methodologies, and design cases, this study contributes valuable insights to researchers and practitioners engaged in cross-cultural design and related fields.

Research on the Aesthetic Value of Costume Creation in the Song Dynasty

The objective of the study is to trace the evolution of costume design in the Song Dynasty, highlighting key aesthetic influences, materials, and techniques employed in clothing creation and to explore the underlying aesthetic principles and thoughts that guided costume creation in the Song Dynasty, including notions of beauty, harmony, and symbolism. This study try to investigate the specific materials and techniques used in creating Song Dynasty costumes and their impact on the overall aesthetic value, considering aspects such as fabric, embroidery, dyeing, and tailoring methods. In the course of the aesthetic study, this study looked very closely at artworks from the Song Dynasty in an effort to comprehend the aesthetic concepts such as beauty, harmony, and symbolism that influenced costume design during that time period. During the materials and techniques investigation, this study used scientific approaches to get a better understanding of the materials that were used in the production of the costumes. Additionally, this study worked with specialists to get a more in-depth examination of the processes used for dyeing , embroidery, and tailoring. According to the findings, the aesthetic ideals that guided costume production underwent a process of evolution during the course of the Song Dynasty. During the early decades of the 20th century, there was an emphasis placed on elegance and harmony with nature. This is shown in the usage of delicate silks and subtle floral designs at the time. When Neo-Confucianism became more popular, ideas of integrity and symmetry began to influence costume design (Table 1 and Table 2). This resulted in color combinations that were more harmonious and the integration of yin-yang symbols. . Pseudo-evidence on silk, sophisticated needlework, state of the art natural coloring procedures and ahead tailoring techniques demonstrate how such components played their particular part towards the attractiveness of cloth products made under Song Dynasty. Firstly this research gives an understanding of the interplay diverse influences such as changing circumstances from historical, cultural and artistic perspectives that fused together to form a rich legacy in beauty and elegance that adds immensely to the understanding of the aesthetic nature of costume design throughout Song Dynasty.

The Innovative Practice of Traditional Printmaking Art in the Teaching of Costume Design

The Innovative Practice of Traditional Printmaking Art in the Teaching of Costume Design

Our Princes are in Borrowed Robes: Significance of Expressed Costume Choices by Selected Ghanaian Playwrights

The playwright’s work remains the blueprint upon which all other theatre artists build their craft. This positions playwrights as indispensable artists in theatrical discourse. While some playwrights express specific costume demands in their texts, others leave it to theatre directors and designers to decipher the appropriate costume choices for the plays. The former suggests a stylistic feature by some playwrights; however, less visibility appears to be given to this phenomenon in Ghanaian theatre scholarship. What the significance and implications are for both the costume designer and playwrights is the subject of this exploration. Employing a qualitative approach, this paper samples three Ghanaian playwright educators and their costume choices and examines the dramatic significance of their choices. The findings of the study revealed that the rationale for expressing costume choices was to project major characters, and that the necessity to create special characters, create impression, as well as scene changes and time, all influenced character costume choices. The significance of costume choices was to project a rich tapestry of cultural identity and characters and enforce themes, while the implications of such costume choices were to support costumiers, make issues easier for them and the playwright, and encourage them to be more creative. Ultimately, this study contributes to scholarship on costume usage in theatrical discourse.

Drama Costumes and Character Shaping: Visual Narrative from Desk Design to Stage Costume

Outstanding theatrical costume is not only the crystallization of the designer's efforts, but also plays a vital role in the process of characterization. It not only reveals the identity of the character, but also adds color to the actor's performance and makes the character image more layered and beautiful. From the desktop design to the production and presentation of stage costumes is a two-dimensional to three-dimensional transformation process, this process not only involves how the designer through the conception, design and production of clothing to interpret the role of the era in which the background of the regional environment, personality traits, inner feelings, future destiny, etc.; also involves the costume and other departments is how to communicate and collaborate with the audience to present a vivid stage Performance. Throughout the process, the costume design department has to go through the process of conceptualizing the character image, drawing the costume rendering, communicating and negotiating with other departments, and then determining the style, color and fabric of the costume, and then starting the production and finally presenting it to the audience on the stage, so as to complete the shaping of the character's image and the role of its visual narrative.

Development of Professional Competencies of The Future Costume Designer in the Design System

Development of Professional Competencies of The Future Costume Designer in the Design System

Innovative costume design within the framework of the folklore of the State of Iraq

This current research to the date of the start of the issue to the current version of clothes for girls from the Iraqi folk heritage in line with the values and customs of the community in addition to the possibility of designing costumes. Fashionable for girls at that stage Accordingly, (10) proposed designs of (8) models of the folklore costume of the State of Iraq were prepared to achieve the objectives of the research using the CLO 3D program, and the research followed the experimental and descriptive method. The proposed designs were presented to a group of specialized professors. and female consumers with the aim of evaluating them, through a questionnaire for specialists consisting of (23) phrases divided into four axes to know the extent to which each of (the characteristics of the Iraqi folklore according to the elements and foundations of design, the innovative and aesthetic side, the functional side have been achieved, The economic and marketing aspect), while the questionnaire for female consumers is composed of (10) phrases for the proposed designs. The results of the study indicated the success of using design elements inspired by the concepts of Iraqi folklore as a design source according to the limits of the study. Where the functional, innovative, aesthetic and marketing aspect of the proposed designs for girls was achieved, and the best-proposed designs were identified, which achieved the highest transactions according to the results of the study and the opinions of arbitrators and consumers.

IDENTIFYING AND ANALYSING BASE TREND IN CORPORATE UNIFORM DESIGN

The article examines the problem of identifying key trends in the development of the concept of corporate uniform in an organisation based on information about successfully implemented projects in various professional fields. For this purpose, an algorithm for applying data analysis methods in practical activities CRISP-DM was used, which includes six typical stages: understanding business goals, initial study of data, data preparation, modeling, evaluation and implementation. For each stage, methods (mathematical, expert) for processing data to identify trends are defined. The result of applying the proposed methodology is a visual presentation of data on identified trends in uniform design, including in the format of temperature maps, allowing a specialist in the field of costume design to reasonably interpret them and extrapolate the identified trends into the future of corporate fashion and corporate identity.

Innovative Application of Traditional Chinese Opera Elements in Modern Dramatic Costume Design

In the field of drama, especially in clothing design, designers are actively exploring how to combine traditional opera elements with modern drama to create clothing images that are both rich in traditional charm and in line with contemporary audience aesthetics. This innovation not only inherits traditional culture, but also challenges and extends modern aesthetics. Traditional Chinese opera elements, as an important component of Chinese culture, provide rich inspiration and materials for modern drama costume design with their unique symbolic meanings and aesthetic characteristics. The article conducts research on the innovative application of traditional Chinese opera elements in modern theatrical costume design, in order to enrich theatrical images and provide new paths and possibilities for the dissemination and inheritance of traditional culture in contemporary society.

The Artistic Expression of Character Shaping and Dramatic Costume Design

Character shaping and theatrical costume design complement each other in theatrical performance. Character shaping requires consideration of the character's background, personality traits, and goals, and showcases the character's characteristics through techniques such as dialogue, body language, and psychological description. Dramatic costume design should reflect the personality of the characters, conform to the theatrical style and historical background, and reflect the development of the characters in the plot. By selecting appropriate materials, colors, and designing clothing styles, as well as cleverly matching accessories, theatrical costumes can enhance the effect of character shaping. The interaction between characters and clothing is reflected in clothing strengthening character characteristics, assisting in expressing character emotions, and creating a suitable plot atmosphere. By integrating character shaping with theatrical costume design, the connotation of characters can be better interpreted, and the overall expressive power of drama can be enhanced.

The Integration of Dunhuang Murals from The Tang Dynasty and Modern Clothing Design

Dunhuang murals are an artistic treasure of world cultural heritage. Dunhuang murals were in their heyday during the Tang Dynasty. The murals of this period were extremely artistic and representative. Integrating them with modern clothing design has great cultural significance and room for development. This article explores the integration of Dunhuang murals in the Tang Dynasty and modern clothing design, introduces the brief history and development of Dunhuang murals in the Tang Dynasty, summarizes the design principles and practices for research, and provides theoretical basis and design reference for other related theme costume designs. In inheriting ancient Chinese At the same time, it injects more cultural atmosphere and artistic charm into modern clothing design to meet people's needs for diversified and personalized clothing. It also makes a positive contribution to the inheritance and promotion of Dunhuang culture.

Innovative Adaptations of Dance Performances at the Yogyakarta Palace during the Covid-19 Pandemic

The Covid-19 pandemic poses challenges to the world of performing arts, especially dance performances. Dance events that gather crowds were halted due to adherence to government recommendations to prevent the spread of the Covid-19 virus. Nevertheless, the Yogyakarta Palace managed to persist in showcasing their dances during the pandemic. Therefore, this article seeks to describe the response of the Yogyakarta Palace in addressing the challenges of dance performances during the pandemic. This is deemed important to provide insights into the creativity of artists in adapting the presentation of a dance during the pandemic to ensure its continued existence. This research takes the form of qualitative research with a performing arts approach predominantly based on literature studies. The Kraton Jogja YouTube account serves as the main data source to understand the innovative adaptations made by the Yogyakarta Palace. Comparative studies are employed to identify the differences in the presentation of dance before, during, and after the pandemic. The goal is to ascertain the efforts of innovative adaptation undertaken. The research indicates that innovative adaptation is carried out through creative costume design, audience engagement in dance events, and the utilization of internet technology advancements through virtual dance performances on the YouTube channel. As an adaptive effort, these creations are aligned with government regulations related to the containment of the spread of the Covid-19 virus. These innovative adaptation efforts bring about significant changes to the established ways of presenting dances at the Yogyakarta Palace.

HISTORICAL EVOLUTION AND INNOVATIVE DESIGN OF QIANG COSTUMES

Рurpose. This paper analyzes the evolution process and cultural connotation of Qiang costume form, discusses the application form of Qiang costume elements in modern clothing design, and provides a theoretical basis for the innovative design of national costumes. Methodology. The field research method, literature analysis method, and case study method are used to analyze the evolution process, cultural connotation, and design application of Qiang costumes. Results. By studying the development process and style design changes of the Qiang costumes, it is concluded that its unique cultural connotation and design characteristics are closely related to the social characteristics, production methods and religious beliefs of the Qiang people. It is the materialized expression of the Qiang people's world outlook and national psychology. It reveals the reasons for the change of the Qiang costume modelling and proposes the method of using ethnic elements in modern costume design. Scientific novelty. This paper studies the development process of Qiang costume shape from the perspective of design, history, ethnology and anthropology, and puts forward that Qiang costume is the materialized expression form of local people 's world outlook, values and aesthetics, and clarifies that the change of Qiang costume shape is influenced by religious culture and Han-Tibetan culture. Suggestions are made in the form of integration of national costume elements with modern clothing design. Practical significance. The Qiang costume has been fused with other ethnic cultures in the course of historical changes, which is both inherited and changed, which is very inspiring to modern costume design. Digging deeper into the cultural connotation and design language of Qiang costume, so that it can innovate the design method and explore the design carrier while inheriting the national culture, so as to provide reference for the creation of a costume design that can embody both the traditional Chinese culture and the sense of the times.

COSTUME AS A CHARACTER: COMMUNICATING THROUGH COSTUME IN IYOBINTE PUSTHAKAM

Costumes which are the distinctive style of dressing is one of the many tools the film director has to tell the story in films. Costumes can communicate the details of a character’s personality to the audience and facilitate actors transform into new and believable personalities on the screen Brownie & Graydon (2016). Costumes give a visual impact on the film audience and more than just dressing an actor, costume design extends the main themes of the film in a subtly effective way, it can progress the character in a story without dialogue, costumes may not be memorable as dance sequences or banter but it can recreate time and space. While looking deeper into the costumes of the character it might be a surprise to explore a person’s politics, education, personality, social status, hierarchy, politics, and many more about the particular role played by the character. The need for communication is for the designers to effectively design the costumes. This article explores a Semiotic Analysis of how the costumes communicate the character development progresses in the Malayalam film “IYOBINTE PUSTHAKAM” the characters “IYOB” and “COMMUNIST MAN”. Semiotic Analysis is used to analyze the costume of the characters and gives an explanation of how costume designers design costumes in films that effectively communicate the character in films.

The Characteristics of the Design of Ming Dynasty Palace Festival Costumes

This research explores the Characteristics of the Design of Ming Dynasty Palace Festival Costumes, shedding light on the intricate elements that defined the attire during this historical period. The primary aim is to unravel the unique features embedded in the design of palace festival costumes, offering insights into the cultural, social, and artistic dimensions of Ming Dynasty attire. The methodology involves in-depth examinations of historical texts, museum collections, and visual representations, ensuring a comprehensive exploration of the subject.The findings of this research unveil the meticulous craftsmanship, cultural symbolism, and societal implications embedded in the Ming Dynasty palace festival costumes. The intricate use of materials, the symbolism behind specific patterns, and the influence of seasonal and ceremonial considerations are among the key aspects explored.