Dermocosmetic Products Research Articles

Strategic Approaches in Formulation Development for Atopic Dermatitis

Atopic dermatitis (AD) is the most common chronic skin disease, significantly impacting patients’ quality of life. One of the most effective management approaches for AD involves addressing the defective skin barrier by urging AD patients to regularly use suitable moisturizers. Therapeutic moisturizers designed for AD are precisely formulated with ingredients targeting critical and often early symptoms of AD (e.g., itch, inflammation, damaged skin barrier). Dermo-cosmetic products, which are rich in moisturizing and emollient agents contributing to recovery as well as strengthening the skin barrier, have proven to be excellent adjuncts in AD treatment. There are various galenic forms of dermo-cosmetics, such as lotions, gels, creams, foams, and sprays, requiring a rationale in choosing ingredients for the product formulation and development. In addition, the role of moisturizer and emollient therapy to address skin dryness linked to dermatological conditions is hugely dependent on varying chemistry and morphology in the deeper regions of the skin. There are also limits to the efficacy of treatments, corticosteroid side effects, and product sensory appeal, which may decrease patient acceptance and compliance. The objective of this review is thus to offer a comprehensive overview of the critical aspects involved in the development of cosmetic vehicles, as well as a detailed examination of the primary ingredients used in formulations for AD.

Mineral Water as a Sustainable Raw Material for Skincare Products and Protective Natural Antioxidant from Solar Irradiation: Stability of Vitamin C and In Vitro Antioxidant Assessments

Oxygen is crucial for life, but its reactive species, like free radicals, can damage health and accelerate aging. Antioxidants from natural and synthetic sources mitigate these effects. Kanjiža Spa’s mineral-rich thermal water is renowned for its therapeutic benefits and potential in eco-friendly pharmaceuticals and cosmetics. Hence, the utilization of mineral water in pharmaceutical and cosmetic applications when exposed to artificially generated free radicals under simulated solar irradiation and different experimental conditions (pH values and mineral concentrations in the thermal water) was researched. Three different dermocosmetic products designed with raw minerals and water from Kanjiža Spa were tested. Our findings confirmed the protective effect of mineral water, as evidenced by the higher stability of vitamin C in thermal water. The degradation of vitamin C was significantly reduced in the presence of mineral water, with the least degradation occurring at pH = 7, which closely matches human skin pH. These results were further validated using 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl and ABTS tests. Overall, the obtained results underscore the therapeutic and commercial potential of Kanjiža Spa’s mineral water, suggesting that it could be a valuable ingredient in next-generation skincare and pharmaceutical products.

Ultrathin porous PdCu metallenezymes as oxidase mimics for colorimetric analysis.

Ultrathin porous and highly curved two-dimensional PdCu alloy metalleneare shown to be highly efficient oxidase mimics. Serving as intrinsic oxidase mimic, the ultrathin porous structure of the PdCu metallenezymes could effectively utilize all the Pd atoms of the metallenezymes during catalytic reactions. By using the oxidation capability of 3,3'5,5'-tetramethylbenzidine as distinctive chromogenic substrate, the PdCu metallenezymes was used as oxidase-like mimics for determination of total antioxidant capacity (TAC) of vitamin C containing real products including fresh orange juice, commercial beverages, Vitamin C tablets and dermo-cosmetic products. AAP was hydrolyzed using ALP to generate AA and the corresponding ALP activity was successfully detected in the0-100 U/L rangewith a lowest detection limit of 0.9 U/L. This study demonstrates the significant catalytic performance and oxidase-like activity of PdCu metallene nanozyme providing astrategy to develop a TAC assay for the assessment of antioxidant food quality as well as oxidative stress in skin and health care products.

Acne microbiome: From phyla to phylotypes.

Acne vulgaris is a chronic inflammatory skin disease with a complex pathogenesis. Traditionally, the primary pathophysiologic factors in acne have been thought to be: (1) altered sebum production, (2) inflammation, (3) excess keratinization and (4) colonization with the commensal Cutibacterium acnes. However, the role of C. acnes has been unclear, since virtually all adults have C. acnes on their skin yet not all develop acne. In recent years, understanding of the role of C. acnes has expanded. It is still acknowledged to have an important place in acne pathogenesis, but evidence suggests that an imbalance of individual C. acnes phylotypes and an alteration of the skin microbiome trigger acne. In addition, it is now believed that Staphylococcus epidermidis is also an actor in acne development. Together, C. acnes and S. epidermidis maintain and regulate homeostasis of the skin microbiota. Antibiotics, which have long been a staple of acne therapy, induce cutaneous dysbiosis. This finding, together with the long-standing public health edict to spare antibiotic use when possible, highlights the need for a change in acne management strategies. One fertile direction of study for new approaches involves dermocosmetic products that can support epidermal barrier function and have a positive effect on the skin microbiome.

Water in cosmetics and Caenorhabditis elegans as an alternative model for lifespan assessment.

Water, often considered a fundamental component of life, is the most commonly used ingredient in the formulation of dermocosmetic products, with waterless products being the exception. Dermocosmetic products can contain anywhere from 50% to 85% water, which contributes to their texture and specific characteristics. The chemical composition of water varies depending on its origin and can be categorized as highly mineralized or low mineralized. These compositions could impact the water's efficacy in anti-aging applications. In this study, the objective is evaluating the anti-aging properties of highly and low mineralized water with the model organism Caenorhabditis elegans. In this article, we employed the alternative model organism C. elegans to assess the impact of 5 branded waters, one physiological water and one ultra-pure water on the model's lifespan, using the survival medium conventionally used for C. elegans as a comparison. Waters may have either a positive or a negative impact on the C. elegans lifespan expectancy. Our results indicate that only one of the water brands we assessed (Volvic®) had a significantly positive effect on worm longevity. In contrast, we found that two other brands (Hepar® and Contrex®) had a negative impact on the later stages of the worm's adulthood. Furthermore, we demonstrated that the impact of the brand water samples on lifespan expectancy varied depending on their physicochemical composition, in particular when ion concentrations were most extreme. This study shows that the highly mineralized waters studied have a detrimental effect on the survival of C. elegans, and a preliminary test with ultra-pure water could not be completed due to its deleterious effect on the worms. This suggests the hypothesis that both highly mineralized and completely demineralized waters may not be the most suitable for skin formulations.

New Insights into the Dermocosmetic Potential of the Red Seaweed Gelidium corneum.

This work addresses the potential of the red seaweed Gelidium corneum as a source of bioactive ingredients for skin health and wellness in response to the growing awareness regarding the significance of sustainable strategies in developing new nature-based dermocosmetic products. Hydroalcoholic extracts from the dried biomass were subjected to sequential liquid-liquid partitions, affording five different fractions (F1-F5). Their cosmetic potential was assessed through a set of in vitro assays concerning their antioxidant, photoprotective, and healing properties. Additionally, their cytotoxicity in HaCaT cells and their capacity to induce inflammation in RAW 264.7 cells were also evaluated. As a proof-of-concept, O/W emulsions were prepared, and emulsion stability was assessed by optical microscopy, droplet size analysis, centrifugation tests, and rheology analysis. Furthermore, in vivo tests were conducted with the final formulation to assess its antioxidant capacity. At subtoxic concentrations, the most lipophilic fraction has provided photoprotection against UV light-induced photooxidation in HaCaT cells. This was conducted together with the aqueous fraction, which also displayed healing capacities. Regarding the physical and stability assays, the best performance was achieved with the formulation containing 1% aqueous extract, which exhibited water retention and antioxidant properties in the in vivo assay. In summary, Gelidium corneum displayed itself as a potential source of bioactive ingredients with multitarget properties for dermatological use.

Cures thermales et produits dermocosmétiques en support aux soins des toxicités dermatologiques dues aux anticancéreux: Thermal hydrotherapy and dermocosmetics as supportive care for dermatological toxicities due to anticancer treatments

Oncological treatments very frequently induce toxicities in the skin, mucosa or appendages (e.g., the nails, hair), which can have a significant impact on patient quality of life and adherence to treatment. Dermatological sequelae can also persist after treatment has ended. It is therefore essential to prevent or limit dermatological adverse effects in patients undergoing chemo- or radiotherapy. Supportive care with dermatological and dermocosmetic products has been shown to be beneficial to many patients. In particular, the regular use of emollients is recommended to maintain or restore the protective function of the skin before, during and after treatment. Products containing thermal water are particularly suitable for sensitive skin and can be used safely. Several clinical studies have also shown that specific hydrotherapies can be used alongside prophylactic and curative measures to improve skin symptoms and pain, as well as patient quality of life, self-image and well-being in patients undergoing anticancer treatment. The Skin and Cancer program of Avène laboratories combines these different approaches by developing and evaluating new dermocosmetic products, raising awareness among patients and professionals about dermatological toxicities and their treatments, and providing thermal hydrotherapies and counselling workshops dedicated to cancer patients.© 2023 Elsevier Masson SAS. All rights reserved.

Investigation of the Chemical Content and User Comments on Facial Cleansing Products.

The goal of skin cleansing is to reduce sebum and exogenous pollutants and control the skin microbiome. Surfactants in cleansers dissolve hydrophobic substances in an aqueous phase and allow them to move away from the skin's surface. The negative effect of surfactants on the skin barrier can be reduced by changing the solution properties. As a dermatologist in the group of patients we encounter in our clinical dermatology practice who recommends face wash products, we thought of conducting this research in order to determine the product contents to identify the products with the highest user satisfaction so that we can easily make the selection of the right product and direct the patients correctly. We planned to conduct cross-sectional research. Ten facial cleansing products sold on the most popular website that sells dermo-cosmetic products online in our country were selected. In the selection of the website, the criterion of having the most Internet traffic was sought. Internet traffic data was obtained from www.similarweb.com. The classification of the identified key ingredients according to their chemical properties was used on https://cosmeticanalysis.com. Reviews for each of the ten products in total were examined from the most recent date to the oldest. We detected 87 different chemicals in ten different products. These basically consisted of surfactants, emollients (moisturizers), emulsifiers (cleansers), buffering (denaturators), herbal ingredients-antioxidants, solvents, and moisturizers. A total of 30 different surfactants were identified as the main cleaning ingredient in the examined products. Counterfeit product reporting was especially high on expensive products. No correlation was found between the number of surfactants in the products and the positive effects, such as cleansing and acne reduction and increase, and the negative effects, such as dryness, redness, burning, and smoothing/softening (p>0.05). There was a negative correlation between the cleansing effect of the products and the improvement and worsening of acne(p<0.05, p<0.001, respectively). The bottom line is that a good facial cleansing product doesn't have to contain a lot of chemicals and surfactants. It should be kept in mind that expensive products may be counterfeit and should question whether the product is original or not on the local product detection system from the barcode number.

Reduction of senescence-associated secretory phenotype and exosome-shuttled miRNAs by Haritaki fruit extract in senescent dermal fibroblasts.

Skin ageing is linked to the accumulation of senescent cells and a "senescence-associated secretory phenotype" (SASP). SASP factors include chemokines, cytokines, and small extracellular vesicles (EVs) containing miRNAs. We characterized SASP profile markers in normal human dermal fibroblasts (HDFs) and evaluated the effect of Haritaki fruit extract on these senescence markers. Senescence was induced in HDFs by ionizing radiation (X ray), followed by 14 days of culture. Parallel incubations included fibroblasts treated for 12 days with 10 or 100 μg/mL Haritaki (a standardized extract of Terminalia chebula fruit). Senescence was assessed on Day 14 according to cell morphology, β-galactosidase activity, RT-qPCR measurement of SASP genes, as well as semi-quantitative (RT-qPCR) expression of miRNAs contained in EVs isolated from the medium. The size and distribution of EVs were measured by Nanoparticle Tracking Analysis. Human dermal fibroblasts exhibited a senescent phenotype 14 days after ionizing-radiation, demonstrated by a flattened and irregular shape, increased β-galactosidase activity and over-expression of SASP genes. CSF3, CXCL1, IL1β, IL6 and IL8 genes were increased by 1492%, 1041%, 343%, 478%, 2960% and 293%, respectively. The cell cycle inhibitor, CDKN1A, was increased by 357%, while COL1A1, was decreased by 56% and MMP1 was increased by 293%. NTA analysis of the EVs size distribution indicated a mix of exosomes (45-100 nm) and microvesicles (100-405 nm). miRNA expression in EVs was increased in senescent fibroblasts. miR 29a-3p, miR 30a-3p, miR 34a-5p, miR 24a-3p and miR 186-5p were increased in senescent HDF by 4.17-, 2.43-, 1.17-, 2.01, 12.5-fold, respectively. Incubation of senescent fibroblasts with Haritaki extract strongly decreased SASP mRNA levels and miRNA expression in EVs. Haritaki strongly reduced SASP expression and EV-shuttled miRNAs in senescent fibroblasts. These results indicate that Haritaki has strong senomorphic properties and may be a promising ingredient for the development of new anti-ageing dermo-cosmetic products by inhibiting deleterious effects of senescent cells.

Tolerability and effectiveness of a dermocosmetic product containing Silybum marianum fruit extract in adolescents and young adults with acne-prone skin: An international, phase IV, longitudinal study.

Dermocosmetic products are often used to maintain or enhance the tolerance and effectiveness of medical anti-acne therapies. Recent discoveries about the pathophysiology of acne-prone skin indicate that skincare products may help maintain homeostasis around the sebaceous gland progenitor cells, thereby preventing microcomedone formation. To evaluate the tolerance and effectiveness of a dermocosmetic product containing Silybum marianum fruit extract (SMFE) in adolescents and young adults with acne-prone skin. This real-life, international, observational, multicenter study was conducted in patients aged 12-25 years with mild-to-moderate acne. Patients (N=4230) used the product twice daily for 8-12 weeks, either alone before ("initial group") or after an anti-acne therapy ("maintenance group"), or in association with their usual prescribed anti-acne therapies ("association group"). The tolerance, effectiveness, and cosmetic properties of the product were assessed. Patient quality of life (QoL) was also evaluated. Dermatologists rated the tolerance of the product as "good" or "very good" in about 95% of the patients and the effectiveness of the product as "effective" or "highly effective" in about 80% of the patients, with a significant reduction in the mean global evaluation of acne (GEA) grade (-36% ± 39%, p < 0.0001) at study end. The QoL of most patients (80%) improved by the end of the study, and the majority (79% to 94%) appreciated the cosmetic properties of the product. Overall, the product was a clinical success in >84% of patients. This dermocosmetic product can be used by adolescents and young adults with acne-prone skin to limit the initial or chronic use of medical anti-acne therapies.

MECHANISMS FOR MANAGING AMBIDEXTERITY IN SMALL AND MEDIUM-SIZED ENTERPRISES: TWO CASE STUDIES IN THE DERMOCOSMETICS SECTOR

Innovation is presented as the competitive weapon by which companies respond to the challenges of a dynamic environment. However, devising a strategy that balances the needs for short-term profitability and long-term survival becomes more complex when it comes to small and medium-sized businesses. Their limited resources, both in terms of human capital and financial means, hinder the development of organizational ambidexterity within these structures. The contribution of our qualitative study is manifested through the detection of the mechanisms enabling the SME to respond to the dual requirements of exploitation innovations and exploration innovations, particularly in a turbulent environment. We are therefore interested in the market of dermocosmetic products because it represents a young and growing market. The results obtained from the in-depth analysis of two cases, show that the simultaneous pursuit of these two imperatives is possible under certain conditions. We highlight three prerequisites: The necessity to rethink management and to conduct a new organizational and strategic adaptation process; The promotion of a culture and a social context stimulating ambidextrous behavior; Maintaining strong relationships with stakeholders.

Issues of therapy for post-acne post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation

Introduction. Post-acne post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation most often develops in patients with moderate to severe acne. Post-acne pigmentation can be persistent and last from months to several years, which has a negative impact on the patients’ quality of life. It occurs at any age with the same frequency in men and women.Aim. To evaluate the effect of dermatocosmetic products – a triple effect serum (containing thiamidol, salicylic acid and lycochalcone A) and SPF30 fluid for problematic skin on the skin condition in patients with moderate and severe post-acne post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.Material and methods. A total of 57 patients with post-acne post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation localized on the facial skin were under observation. The age of the patients was 22.4 ± 2.7 years. 32 patients were diagnosed with mild post-acne PIH, 25 patients – with moderate post-acne PIH. All patients used dermocosmetic products such as the triple effect serum (containing thiamidol, salicylic acid and lycochalcone A) and SPF30 fluid for problematic skin. Efficacy was evaluated with due account for mexametry findings, GSS, dermatology life quality index. Digital data were processed using standard medical statistical methods: calculation of the arithmetic mean value (X), square deviation (σ), Student’s t-test (t).Results. After 12 weeks the mexometric index decreased: 92.7 and 85.9% in mild and moderate post-acne PIH, respectively. The DLQ index reduced by 84.9 and 83.8% by the end of the treatment,Conclusions. The use of innovative dermocosmetic products containing salicylic acid and licochalcon A effectively reduces post-acne pigmentation. All patients noted good organoleptic properties: skin application comfort and excellent tolerability of the products.

764 Targeting dermal fibroblast senescence with senomorphic and epigenetic properties of haritaki fruit extract: Effects on SASP and miR over-expression in senescent fibroblasts’ extracellular vesicles

Skin aging is the consequence of two biological process: intrinsic genetically programmed factors and extrinsic environmental factors. At the cellular level, accumulation of senescent cells (SC) is also involved in skin aging. SC stop to proliferate but remain metabolically active. The secretome of SC (Senescence Associated Secretory Phenotype: SASP), is a cocktail of mediators like CSF3, CXCL1, IL8, IL1b, IL6, MMP-1 and -3, involved in skin aging. Extracellular vesicles (EV) have also been reported to act as cytokines during intercellular communication. They transport proteins, mRNAs and miRNAs, over short or long distances. miRNAs are a class of short, single-stranded, noncoding RNA molecules. As epigenetic modulators, miRNAs affect the protein levels of the target mRNAs without modifying the gene sequences. Several miRs are known to be involved in senescence and skin aging. The aim of our study was to evaluate, the effect of Haritaki fruit extract (HF extract) on SASP and senescence associated miRs contained in EV. Our results showed that, 14 days after ionizing radiation (7.5 Gy), human dermal fibroblasts presented a senescent phenotype: flattened and irregular shape, senescence associated ß-galactosidase activity, SASP expression (RT-PCR) and miR 24a-3p, miR 186-5p, miR 30a-3p and miR 29a-3p overexpression in EV (RT-PCR). Our results also showed that incubation of senescent fibroblasts with HF extract strongly decreased SASP mRNA level and miR 34a-5p, miR 24a-3p, miR 186-5p, miR 30a-3p and miR 29a-3p over-expression in EV. Taken together these results demonstrated that Haritaki fruit extract is a strong senomorphic agent with epigenetic effect, suggesting that it may be useful for the development of new anti-aging dermo-cosmetic products.

Exploratory evaluation of tolerability, performance, and cosmetic acceptance of dexpanthenol-containing dermo-cosmetic wash and sun-care products for tattoo aftercare.

Background and AimsTattoo prevalence has significantly increased over the last decades. Proper tattoo aftercare, such as cleansing, moisturizing, and protection against sunlight, is essential to prevent complications and to keep the beauty of the tattoo. The tolerability, performance, and cosmetic acceptability of two dexpanthenol‐containing dermo‐cosmetic products, a wash and a sun‐care, were investigated on tattooed skin in two separate trials.MethodsTwo single‐center, exploratory, open‐label cosmetic studies were conducted between August and November 2020 to evaluate the dexpanthenol‐containing dermo‐cosmetic products. In the first study, healthy adults applied the 2.5% dexpanthenol‐containing wash right after their tattoo session daily for 14 consecutive days. In the second study, healthy adults applied the 2.5% dexpanthenol‐containing sun‐care sun protection factor 50+ cream on existing tattoos that were daily exposed to sunlight for 28 consecutive days. Clinical examination by a dermatologist and self‐assessment through subject questionnaires were used to assess the tolerability, acceptance, ease of use, and cosmetic outcomes of both products. Additionally, transepidermal water loss and moisturization assessments were performed to evaluate skin hydration after use of the sun‐care product.ResultsBoth study products were well tolerated, and no product related adverse events were reported during the studies. At least 90% of the study participants appreciated the performance of the dexpanthenol‐containing wash and sun‐care product, including moisturizing properties, relief of unpleasant sensations, and preservation of the cosmetic appearance of the tattoo. For the sun‐care, it was shown that its application supported maintaining the skin barrier of tattooed skin, while keeping it hydrated.ConclusionThe 2.5% dexpanthenol‐containing wash and sun‐care products are well tolerated and appreciated by tattooed subjects. Hence, they represent valid options for tattoo aftercare in line with current recommendations and practice.

Standardized wild apple fruit extract as a bioactive agent in dermocosmetic products for efficacy skin hydration-In vitro and in vivo evaluation.

Wild apple fruit is rich source of bioactive substances, which can be potentially used for a production of dermocosmetic products. The aim of study was in vitro and in vivo investigation of standardized wild apple fruit extracts (obtained by purified water and maceration-EM, percolation-EP, Soxhlet extraction-ES and ultrasonic extraction-EU) and dermocosmetic creams of o/w type containing 6%, 12%, and 15% of extract EU, as extract with the best content of polyphenolic compounds (CE6, CE12, and CE15, respectively), in order to determine the optimal concentration of the extract, which manifests the best effect on the biophysical characteristics of the skin after application. Content of polyphenolic substances-PP was investigated using HPLC analysis, while in vitro biological activity was examined on L929 fibroblasts using MTT viability test. In vivo efficacy included screening and comparison of skin hydration potential, transepidermal water loss-TEWL, and skin pH after 28days of creams application on healthy volunteers' skin. Content of identified PP was the highest in the extract EU (2001.57±0.87mgPP/100gEU) and satisfactory in cream CE6 (53.83±0.23mgPP/100gCE6). Procyanidin B2 was the most common PP. Biological activity analysis showed that extract EU could be considered as non-cytotoxic for fibroblasts in examined concentrations. In vivo investigation revealed an increase of skin hydration (after 28days ΔEC was 21.19±7.59, 26.71±7.94, and 29.60±10.95 for CE6, CE12, and CE15, respectively), with unchanged TEWL and skin pH values. Obtained results indicate that wild apple fruit extract represents a valuable source of bioactive substances, with good hydration effects of creams on human skin (effect of creams increased proportionally to the increase of concentration of incorporated extract), so it might be considered as a great potential for application in dermocosmetic industry.

Photoprotection and Photostability of a New Lignin-Gelatin-Baccharis antioquensis-Based Hybrid Biomaterial.

The aim of this study was to develop a new hybrid biomaterial that could photo-stabilize and improve the photoprotective capacity of a Baccharis antioquensis extract. Different combinations of lignin/gelatin/natural extract were applied to prepare hybrid biomaterial nanoparticles (NPs), which were then incorporated into an emulsion. The in vitro photoprotection and photostability were evaluated. The methanolic extract showed high phenolic content (646.4 ± 9.5 mg GAE/g dry extract) and a DPPH radical assay revealed that the antiradical capacity of the extract (0.13 to 0.05 g extract/mmol DPPH) was even better than that of BHT. The particle size of the hybrid biomaterial ranged from 100 to 255 nm; a polydispersity index (PdI) between 0.416 and 0.788 is suitable for topical use in dermocosmetic products. The loading capacity of the extract ranged from 27.0 to 44.5%, and the nanoparticles (NPs) showed electrostatic stability in accordance with the zeta potential value. We found that the formulation based on lignin: extract (1:1 ratio) and gelatin: lignin: extract (0.5:0.5:1 ratio) demonstrated photoprotection qualities with a sun protection factor (SPF) ranging from 9.4 to 22.6. In addition, all the hybrid NP-formulations were time-stable with %SPFeff and %UVAPFeff greater than 80% after exposure to 2 h of radiation. These results suggest that the hybrid biopolymer-natural extract improved the photoprotection and photostability properties, as well as the antiradical capacity, of the B. antioquensis extract, and may be useful for trapping high polyphenol content from natural extracts, with potential application in cosmeceutical formulations.

373 Effect of Haritaki fruit extract on Senescence Associated Secretory Phenotype and miR 30a-3p over-expression in senescent dermal fibroblasts’ extracellular vesicles

Skin aging is the consequence of two biological process: intrinsic genetically programmed factors and extrinsic environmental factors (sun exposure or lifestyle). At the cellular level, accumulation of senescent cells (SC) is also involved in skin aging. SC stop to proliferate but remain metabolically active. The secretome of SC (Senescence Associated Secretory Phenotype: SASP), is a cocktail of mediators (CSF3, CXCL1, IL8, IL1b, IL6, MMP-1 and -3) involved in skin aging. Extracellular vesicles (EV) have also been reported to act in a similar manner as cytokines during intercellular communication. They transport proteins, mRNAs and miRNAs, over short or long distances. miRNAs are a class of short, single-stranded, noncoding RNA molecules. By binding the specific 3’-UTRs sequence of the target mRNAs, they regulate the expression of multiple genes at the post-transcriptional level through degradation. For instance, miR 30a has been described as a key regulator of aging in human epidermis by regulating barrier function and keratinocytes apoptosis in human epidermis. The aim of our study was to evaluate, by RT-PCR, the effect of Haritaki fruit extract (HF extract) on SASP and senescence associated miR 30a-3p contained in EV. Our results showed that, 14 days after ionizing radiation (7.5 Gy), human dermal fibroblasts presented a senescent phenotype: flattened and irregular shape, senescence associated b-galactosidase activity, SASP over-expression (RT-PCR) and mir 30a-3p overexpression in EV (RT-PCR). Our results also showed that incubation of senescent fibroblasts with HF extract strongly decreased SASP mRNA level and miR 30a-3p expression in EV. Taken together these results demonstrated that Haritaki fruit extract is a strong senomorphic agent, suggesting that it may be useful for the development of new anti- aging dermo-cosmetic products.

Surveillance of dermo-cosmetic products: a global cosmetovigilance system to optimise product development and consumer safety.

In the absence of formal marketing authorisation, the manufacturers of cosmetic products are responsible for their compliance with the cosmetic regulations. To present the key features of a structured, reactive, and rigorous global cosmetovigilance system through practical examples. During clinical development, adverse reactions are collected formally and analysed by cosmetovigilance experts. After commercialisation, information on reported adverse reactions is sought directly from the consumers. The results of allergological investigations are systematically requested. Pre- and post-marketing cases are analysed along with other sources of information (e.g. monitoring of the literature) to detect safety signals per product and per ingredient. A cosmetovigilance index (CVI) is calculated for each formula, based on the number of cases, causality level and number of commercialised units. Updated periodically, it is used to detect signals and select the best tolerated formulas to help formulating new products. Examples of safety issues raised during development or after commercialisation, and corresponding corrective actions, are presented. These actions include (but are not limited to) a safety watch to closely monitor adverse reactions, the modification of the formula or a change in the packaging. Cosmetovigilance data also impact future product development, as illustrated by the work done on sunscreens. Through the rigorous collection and analysis of adverse reactions during development and after commercialisation, the safety of dermo-cosmetic products can be improved by taking the appropriate corrective actions, monitoring their effectiveness and optimising future product development by focusing on the best tolerated formulas.

Oxi-HA/ADH Hydrogels: A Novel Approach in Tissue Engineering and Regenerative Medicine

Hyaluronic acid (HA) is a natural polyelectrolyte abundant in mammalian connective tissues, such as cartilage and skin. Both endogenous and exogenous HA produced by fermentation have similar physicochemical, rheological, and biological properties, leading to medical and dermo-cosmetic products. Chemical modifications such as cross-linking or conjugation in target groups of the HA molecule improve its properties and in vivo stability, expanding its applications. Currently, HA-based scaffolds and matrices are of great interest in tissue engineering and regenerative medicine. However, the partial oxidation of the proximal hydroxyl groups in HA to electrophilic aldehydes mediated by periodate is still rarely investigated. The introduced aldehyde groups in the HA backbone allow spontaneous cross-linking with adipic dihydrazide (ADH), thermosensitivity, and noncytotoxicity to the hydrogels, which are advantageous for medical applications. This review provides an overview of the physicochemical properties of HA and its usual chemical modifications to better understand oxi-HA/ADH hydrogels, their functional properties modulated by the oxidation degree and ADH concentration, and the current clinical research. Finally, it discusses the development of biomaterials based on oxi-HA/ADH as a novel approach in tissue engineering and regenerative medicine.

THE ROLE OF DERMOCOSMETIC PACKAGING IN CONSUMER BUYING DECISIONS

The aim of this study is to identify the role of packaging as a determining factor in the purchase of dermocosmetic products, and to assess the impact of various elements and features of dermocosmetic packaging on product perception and buying decisions made by consumers. A direct personal interview survey covered a group of female consumers making regular purchases of dermocosmetic products in pharmacies. The survey revealed that although dermocosmetic packaging is not seen as one of the major determinants to purchase, its close connection to the perception of a dermocosmetic’s safety cannot be ignored. While shopping, consumers tend to consider the following features of dermocosmetic packaging: its effectiveness in protecting the product; label information; and product security.