Denim Research Articles

LAKKAZ ENZİMİ İLE KOT BOYARMADDESİNİN DEKOLORİZASYONU

Tekstil endustrisinde kullanilan cesitli boyarmaddeler uretim surecinde alici ortamlara buyuk miktarlarda desarj edilmektedir. Bu durum, cevre ve insan sagligi ile ilgili telafisi zor olan bir surecin baslangicini olusturmaktadir. Bu nedenle gerek kirlenmis alanlarin temizlenmesinde ve gerekse kirletici potansiyeli olan teknolojilerin biyolojik yaklasimlarla butunlestirilmesi ile tekstil endustrisinin bir atigi olan boyarmaddelerin olusturacagi kirlilik azaltilabilecektir. Bu calisma kapsaminda ticari olarak piyasada satilan bir kot boyasinin Trametes versicolor ATCC 200801’in bugday kepegi iceren potato dekstroz broth besiyerinde gelistirilmesi ile elde edilen lakkaz aktivitesi yuksek kultur sivisi ile renk giderimi calisilmis ve optimum kosullar belirlenmistir. Yapilan deneyler sonucunda pH 4.0, baslangic boya konsantrasyonu 75 mg/l, sicaklik 55 oC, inkubasyon suresi ise 120 dakika olarak secilmistir. Belirlenen optimum kosullarda % 68.02 renk giderimi elde edilmistir. Bununla birlikte, boya cozeltisi icerisine tekstil atik sularinda bulunabilecek cesitli metal iyonlari ve kumas boyama isleminde kullanilan yardimci kimyasal maddeler reaksiyon ortamina ilave edilerek, gelistirilmeye calisilan renk giderim potansiyeli uzerine olasi etkileri arastirilmistir. Elde edilen veriler degerlendirildiginde, belirlenen optimum kosullarda denenen kirleticilerin renk giderimini genel olarak olumsuz yonde etkilemedigi gorulmektedir. En fazla inhibe edici etkinin goruldugu 10 mM Tween 80 varliginda bile % 54.68 duzeyinde bir renk giderimi elde edilmistir

Denim Clothing Reduces Venom Expenditure by Rattlesnakes Striking Defensively at Model Human Limbs

Venomous snakebites can be painful, costly, and potentially life threatening. We seek to learn whether ordinary clothing (denim material from blue jeans) interferes with the kinematics of venom delivery, thereby reducing the amount of venom injected by a representative viper into a human limb. In a laboratory study, we used model human limbs (warm, saline solution-filled gloves) to elicit defensive strikes from small and large southern Pacific rattlesnakes (Crotalus oreganus helleri). Each snake was videotaped biting a bare glove and a denim-covered glove. The snakes injected significantly less venom into denim-covered gloves than bare gloves during defensive strikes, with a 60% reduction for small snakes and 66% for large snakes. Latency to bite, number of bites, and duration of fang contact during the bite were similar for the 2 glove types, suggesting that the 2 targets elicited similar defensive behaviors and strikes. Several findings suggested that denim interfered with venom delivery, including the high proportion of dry bites for denim-covered gloves and the large quantity of venom spilled harmlessly on the denim cover. Large rattlesnakes struck more readily, maintained longer fang contact during the bite, and delivered 26 to 41 times more venom into gloves than small snakes. In our model, denim clothing proved effective at reducing venom injection by both small and large rattlesnakes. Wearing long denim pants as an alternative to shorts may provide a simple, low-cost means of reducing the severity of snakebites.

Fugitive Denim by Rachel Louise Snyder and Confessions of an Eco-Sinner by Fred Pearce

Fugitive Denim by Rachel Louise Snyder and Confessions of an Eco-Sinner by Fred Pearce

Denim—The Fabric of Our Lives

Denim—The Fabric of Our Lives

Made‐to‐measure pattern development based on 3D whole body scans

PurposeNew techniques are required to link 3D whole body scans to manufacturing techniques to allow for the mass‐customization of clothes. This study aims to compare two methods of producing skirts based on 3D whole body scans.Design/methodology/approachThree females participated in the study. They were scanned with an accurate 3D whole body scanner. A set of relevant 1D measures was automatically derived from the 3D scan. The measures were incorporated in a skirt pattern and the skirt was made from jeans material. The second method was based on triangulation of the scanned waist‐to‐hip part. The points in the 3D scan were first converted to triangles and these triangles were thereafter merged with neighboring triangles of similar orientation until about 40 triangles remained. These triangles were sewn together to form a “patchwork”‐skirt. All females performed fit tests afterwards.FindingsThe fit of the 3D‐generated patchwork skirt was much better than the fit of the skirt generated by the 1D scan‐derived measures. In the latter case, two of the three skirts were too wide because the scan‐derived hip circumference exceeded the manually derived values. For the 3D generated skirt, it was necessary to enlarge the triangles with a factor of 1.025 to achieve optimal fit.Originality/valueAs far as is known, this is the first study that reports a direct conversion of a 3D scan to clothing without interference of clothing patterns. The study shows that it is possible to generate a fitting patchwork skirt based on 3D scans; the intermediate step of using 1D measures derived from 3D scans is shown to be error‐prone.

Gap: decline of a denim dynasty

Gap: decline of a denim dynasty

Hypericum pollen determines the presence of burglars at the scene of a crime: An example of forensic palynology

Two male intruders entered a house in which the sole female occupant slept having left the back door unlocked for the return of her live-in boyfriend. She awoke and saw strangers in her bedroom. The intruders ran off, one leaving a jacket behind on the kitchen floor. One of the intruders subsequently returned to recover his jacket, but in his rush to leave the house he brushed against a flowering Hypericum bush growing just outside the back door. A suspect was arrested later that day and charged with indecent assault on a female and burglary, but denied any involvement and refused to name any associate. A day following the offence the suspect's clothes were taken for forensic examination. Pollen analysis of selected parts of his clothing showed that his track pants contained 14% Hypericum pollen, denim jacket 24%, and polo shirt 27.5%. Traces of Hypericum pollen occurred on other items. Most of these pollen grains still had their cell contents preserved and were on the clothing in clumps consistent with having recently been collected by the clothing and not having been aerially dispersed. The pollen from the Hypericum bush was identical in colour, shape, development, and size range to the pollen from the clothing. The clothes had so much Hypericum pollen on them that they had to have been in direct and intimate contact with a flowering bush. Pollen evidence is by its nature circumstantial and often cannot be used on its own to convict, or more strictly to determine the truth. The suspect may have been in contact with Hypericum elsewhere, but detailed investigations indicated that this was unlikely. In 30 years of New Zealand forensic work Hypericum had only ever been found on clothing in trace amounts. This is but one way in which forensic palynology can assist law enforcement agencies to determine the history behind a criminal action, and demonstrates that forensic palynology should be considered as an integral part of any criminal investigation.

The Wheelbarrow Man

H e wasn't a disappointment. He was taller than the residents of Riverton had expected and thinner, which enhanced the loose-jointed effect of his movement. His body shambled along under a holey pair of jeans, a checkered shirt, and a tattered denim jacket. His face was razor-boned under a salt and pepper beard, and though his eyes were deeply set and difficult to read, in some of the towns through which he'd passed, people were still speaking of a movement they'd seen below the gray irises, like leaves tumbling under the muddy river. He stepped and stepped and stepped into the town of Riverton behind a blue wheelbarrow. pack of children and mutts -nameless and, some said, never before seen -had met the Wheelbarrow Man on the outskirts of town, and they followed him into its limits like pilot fish. With this escort, the man pushed his wheelbarrow down the main street sidewalk. His arrival had been announced in the Herald Enquirer with the headline A Man with a Purpose. And, now, here he was. Cars slowed and their drivers screwed their heads around to see what sort of lunatic attempts to push a blue wheelbarrow around the world. He set it down in front of Parker's Callus Grill. few of the curs, who'd followed him in from the bushy outskirts of town, crept in, the hair at their necks electrified (as the man's seemed to be all the time), and sniffed him as if they weren't sure they could trust him or were wondering at the scent of other places on him: smoke, catfish flesh, rolling muddy water, honeysuckle, wind-cured sweat, aeolian leaves, another scent, harder to identify, of things to come -the superabounding scent of motion. The children stood at their margin, whispering and watching. The man nodded to them, he hoped encouragingly. Later, he would write in

The Fabric of Society: An Investigation of the Emotional and Sensory Experience of Wearing Denim Clothing

This article aims to open up the realms of sensory experience and affect in connection with the wearing of clothing. By creating a visual focus on denim, an ‘ordinary’ everyday style of generic urban dress, my intention is to present a new approach to the study of clothing in general. This approach is concerned with the study of the clothed body and the experiences of wearers, rather than as fashion, which tends to take up only the onlooker's viewpoint. This article intends to establish the need for such an approach, to stimulate the reader's sensibilities in relevant ways and to report on path finding experiments that indicate ways forward for future work.

Marriage Among the Believers: A Love Story

Marriage Among the Believers:A Love Story David Borofka (bio) Here's a riddle for you: how does a Christian fall in love? The answer is this: Christians don't fall in love because a fall is an occasion for sin, and as we all know, true love, agape love, is the opposite of sin. Love that people fall into is of a different sort altogether. It's not much of a joke, I agree, and it begs the question of how a single Christian living in a backward, out-of-the-way commune in 1978 ever managed to find a wife. So here's the answer to that riddle as well. Tammy and I met during one of those freakish early-spring storms that happen about once a decade. Snow was falling, coating the ground and piling up in the trees. Flakes landed on my neck and trickled down my back like the chill of death. Our septic tank was malfunctioning yet again—my memory of our barn is of one such problem after another; anything with a pipe either leaked or became clogged—and manure was bubbling to the surface in the meadow beside the barn. I was digging a hole where we could empty our slops until such time as we could get the septic tank pumped and repaired. And then I heard someone sneeze. "Gesundheit," I said, "and God bless you, especially if you don't know enough to stay out of the cold." "Thank you," said a thin, high, shaky voice exposed too long to the chill. "Oh," I said, peering through the white branches. "Hide-and-seek. Is that it?" I shook the bough nearest me and watched the powder swirl and fall. "Look," I said, "no more foolishness. I'm not really interested in Twenty Questions. It's about twenty-five degrees right now, and after I finish digging this hole, I'm going inside, where it's a toasty forty-six, and thaw out." Along with our sewage system, we never did get the insulation up to snuff. We may have loved Jesus the carpenter, but we never did learn the first thing about the construction trade. We couldn't even make fire hot, if you know what I mean. I watched the branches move and a young girl step into view. "Only a complete moron would play games in this kind of weather," I said. [End Page 21] "So what does that make you?" "An oxymoron," I said, "since I'm digging a hole to fill it in. Just remember: as quick as you are, you're shivering and I'm not." Her teeth were chattering, and her cheeks were blue. A bit of bone, a hank of hair: there wasn't much more to her than that. She would have been cold in a desert at noon. She was wearing a denim jacket without a liner, a flannel shirt, and a pair of jeans, warm enough for our customary drizzle and mist; but in this bone-chilling weather, she might as well have stripped and rolled in the snow. "Don't tell them where I am," she whispered. "Please? Even if they're looking?" And at that point she promptly fainted into a slushy drift, which meant that there was nothing else to do but pick her up in a fireman's carry and haul her wet, quickly freezing self into the barn. She moaned as though her dreams had taken a terrible turn. When I opened the door, Rachel Sidwell, the wife of our leader and the woman I had once thought to be my girlfriend, was there to meet me. "Now you're bringing them in from the highway?" she said. "Are you so selective that you have to import them? Besides, I thought clubbing a woman on the head had gone out of fashion." "Look here," I said, "this is serious." I lowered the girl from my shoulders and rested her on one of the common tables, just cleared of the dinner dishes. And that's when Rachel saw the color of her face. "She's freezing." "That's what I've been saying." "She must have...

Way to Go Indigo Using Cellulase to Soften & Lighten Denim

Way to Go Indigo Using Cellulase to Soften & Lighten Denim

Perceptual Requirements of Hong Kong Consumers on Children's Denim Wear

This study was carried out to determine the major criteria that parents would consider when they buy denim jeans for their children. How would they differ from what the children wanted? Are parents satisfied with what is available in the market? What do they look for in denim jeans material? Focus groups and questionnaire surveys have been carried out to answer all these questions. The samples have included people of different gender, age, occupation, education, and income level. Data were statistically analyzed to determine the significance of the findings. Comfort and fabric quality were found to be the most important criteria in the selection of children's denim garments. Both parents and children desire the products to be absorbent, comfortable, ‘easy-care’, and soft. Moisture comfort (related to fabric dryness) and pressure comfort (smoothness and stretchiness) are perceived to be the most important factors for denim wear in both summer and winter. The results of this study may provide information to some children's denim wear manufacturers and retailers about their potential customers and end-users.

The presence of genotoxic and bioactive components in indigo dyed fabrics — a possible heatlh risk?

Extracts of pure cotton and jeans fabrics were tested for mutagenicity in Salmonella typhimurium strains TA98 and TA100. The vat dye indigo, technical grade as well as 98% and > 99.5% pure, was also tested for mutagenicity. Synthetic indigo, indirubin and isatin were tested for TCDD receptor affinity in competition experiments in vitro. The mutagenicity of the extracts was associated with the cotton denim and nondyed cotton gave only marginal effects. The mutagenicity of the indigo dyed fabrics was dependent on type and treatment of the fabrics. Extracts of both bleached and nonbleached jeans gave mutagenic effects on TA98 ± S9 and TA100 ± S9. The greatest effects were seen in the presence of S9. Bleaching gave an additional increase in the mutagenicity in the absence of S9. Normal washing of the fabrics after bleaching reduced the mutagenicity. Synthetic indigo of technical grade or 98% pure showed mutagenic effects, especially on TA98 + S9. Further purification to 99.5% reduced the mutagenicity to 24 revertants/mg (6.2 revμmole). Considering the amount of indigo in the extracts and its low mutagenicity, the genotoxicity of jeans extracts must be caused by other unknown components. However, indigo showed a high ( K d = 1.9 nM) affinity for the Ah or TCDD receptor. Indigo can therefore still be a potential health risk either by eliciting toxic effects of other compounds or by being a nongenotoxic carcinogen. The worldwide use of jeans with a possible exposure of a large population to genotoxic and biologically active components emphasizes the need for a more thorough characterization of these effects.

Zilū

Zīlū seems to be a term of Persian origin. It refers to a type of reversible cotton floor “spread”, generally either blue and white or light brown and white in colour, which is decorated with stylized geometrical motifs and patterns. The blue cotton yarns in Zīlū are the same as those used in weaving palās, or denim cloth; the white yarns are undyed cotton (fig. 1).Zīlū were the traditional floorcoverings in most mosques in the south, central and Khurasan regions of Iran, that is, in the country's drier areas; because the yarns used in their construction deteriorate in cold, damp environments, a/a are uncommon in otherparts of Iran. Zīlū were woven to fit the shabistān and the atvān of mosques. The names of patrons and craftsmen were customarily woven into those Zīlū presented as vaqfvo mosques and other religious institutions (figs. 2 - 3).

Like a Normal Human Being

Ed's pickup just pulled out of the driveway?he's on his way to the eve ning shift at the video store, so he's gone till at least 10:30. And my mind is made up: this girl is going to be here when he gets home. After all, it isn't fair, me dragging in like a tomcat Saturday or Sunday mornings, or afternoons. He only agreed to me going out to the bar sometimes; he didn't agree to me getting a girlfriend and disappearing every weekend. Which is pretty much what's happening. Then the phone rings. Expecting anyone? she says. was just waiting for some good-looking woman to call, I say. I lean against the kitchen wall, pushing my dishwater hair back over my shoul der, the red cord twisting around me. Well, don't let me keep you, she says. Oh, you'll do, I say. While we talk, I run my finger along the cord spiraling across my hip. Cath's got that deep voice, half-flirting, but so serious in the center. You hear a voice like that and it's all over. Every thing inside you dissolves. By the time I get off the phone, I'm meeting her in an hour and a half at Park Street, so we can walk to where they have the Concerts on the Com mon. She wants to sit outside and listen to Whitney Houston. Cath says everyone knows Whitney's gay, or at least bi, Cath has some friend who supposedly knows Whitney's ex-girlfriend. Yeah, right. It's past four in the afternoon, so there's not much light in the apart ment?it's a small studio, one little window in the kitchen, so most of the time it's like the twilight zone. I don't know how Ed spends so much time here zombied out in front of the VCR. I'm pulling out my denim jacket when I catch a whiff of the gerbil cage. I put their wriggling brown bodies into the rubbermaid bucket we use to wash the floor. Their claws scrabble

"An diesem Brunnen hast auch du gespielt": Notes on Klinger and his Relationship to Goethe

DAVID HILL "An diesem Brunnen hast auch du gespielt"1: Notes on Klinger and his Relationship to Goethe ι The main facts about Klinger's life and about his relationship to Goethe were established by the beginning of the present century, notably in Max Rieger's monumental biography.2 If it seems worthwhile today to turn again to such matters it is not so much because of the new facts that have emerged—although there are several. It is more because the predominant interest in Goethe has obscured the continuity of Klinger's own development and the meaning of his relationship to Goethe within it. Above all, however, it is a question of biographical method. The positivists' painstaking and deferential accumulation of facts produced biographical portraits which now seem straightforward and even simplistic by comparison with the complexities we have learned to find in the literary texts themselves. Christoph Hering, in a study which properly represents the basis of our present-day understanding of Klinger's literary production, shows well the "distance" that existed between the wild emotionality of the "Sturm und Drang" heroes and the author himself, but in the attempt to show that, unlike his heroes, Klinger was "keineswegs pathologisch" he overstresses "den im Grunde gesunden Kern des jungen Dichters" and "den eigentlich doch harmlosen und natürlichen Übermut Klingers."3 It is important to have recognized that Klinger was himself neither a Guelfo nor a Wild, but the question of Klinger's personality and underlying attitudes is more con- 2. GOETHE SOCIETY OF NORTH AMERICA fused than resolved by pronouncing him healthy, and is reminiscent of older interpretations of the "Sturm und Drang" as the eruption of Nature. Ansgar Hillach introduced the idea of an altogether more complex model when he argued that the exaggerated emotional gestures of Klinger's early heroes in fact correspond to the author's tendency to hide, or repress, his own real emotions,4 but this suggestion does not appear to have found any resonance in the subsequent literature. A similar but apparently unrelated attempt to point to psychological complexities in the young Klinger is to be found in an essay by Henry J. Schmidt dealing with the play Sturm und Drang? But although his analysis of manic depressiveness, inferiority complex and narcissism is often illuminating and confirms the value of not starting from assumptions about Klinger's normality, the use of Freud and Foucault, while offering categorial complexity, tends to produce generalizations about Klinger's experience which neglect the specificity of his position. The problem of using Freud's framework of analysis is only in part the enduring contentiousness of his procedures: even if we accept that he at the very least provided a language for describing how people give meanings to experience it is likely that we shall have simply too little relevant information to attempt a thorough psychogram in the Freudian style. Our knowledge of Klinger's private life is extremely limited, and our knowledge of even the main facts of his childhood and adolescence no more than sketchy. We are unable to point to those experiences which, perhaps trivial to the outsider, can acquire great significance in the mind of a child and contribute importantly to the adult personality which grows out of it. Nonetheless, even if our analysis cannot attempt that level of precision, we are not thereby excused from recognizing that the human mind is full of secrets and contradictions and may be driven by a logic that is not necessarily the same as that which a person uses in explaining to himself his own behavior and attitudes. Where Freud was undoubtedly right was in recognizing that the reassessment of the relationship of one person to another necessarily involves a reconsideration of the bundle of attitudes and behavioral patterns which constitute a personality. To look at what Goethe meant to Klinger is to look again at the way that Klinger gave meaning to the world. This is all the more necessary for the fact that Klinger's attitude to Goethe was not just one of many such attitudes to contemporaries who are of greater or lesser interest to us today, but was, as I shall argue, the...

Pharmacology and cardiovascular reflexes.

PHARMACOLOGY AND CARDIOVASCULAR REFLEXES CARL F. SCHMIDT* The growth ofmodern pharmacology out ofancient, tradition-ridden Materia Medica into a respected member of the family of basic medical sciences is directly traceable to the conviction of Rudolf Buchheim that "Pharmakologie ist vielmehr eine theoretische d.h. erklärende Wissenschaft , und der Physiologie so nahe verwandt dass man sie mit vollem RechtealseinenTheilderPhysiologiebezeichnenkann" (i). ("Pharmacology is rather a theoretical science, and so closely related to physiology that it can rightly be considered a part ofphysiology.") Acting on this conviction , Buchheim set up a laboratory in his own home, and here he and his colleagues Friedrich Bidder and Carl Schmidt and his pupil and successor Oswald Schmiedeberg began the first systematic attempts at learning what drugs really do (2). Schmiedeberg subsequently went on to become director ofthe first University Department ofPharmacology in Strasbourg in 1872 and (with Naunynand Klebs) to establish the firstjournal devoted to pharmacology (3). Within the next half-century departments ofpharmacology were established in every major university in the world, and the first heads ofmost of these were trained under Schmiedeberg. His definition ofpharmacology is, therefore, a matter ofmore than passing interest: "Pharmakologie ist die Lehre von den im lebenden tierischen Organismus durch chemisch wirkende Substanzen, mit Ausnahme der assimilierbaren Nährstoffe, hervorgebrachten Veränderungen, die man im wahren Sinne des Wortes als physiologische Reaktionen bezeichnen kann" (4). ("Pharmacology is the study ofthe.changes brought about in living organisms through substances which act chemically [excluding foodstuffs]; these changes can be designated physiological reactions in the true sense ofthe word.") * Emeritus Professor of Pharmacology, University of Pennsylvania School of Medicine, Philadelphia , Pennsylvania. 207 Buchheim apparently proceeded from the start on the basis that drugs cannot introduce any new, mysterious functions into the body but can only increase or decrease existing functions, and the same concept was transmitted by Schmiedeberg to the young men who passed through his hands on their way to become the leaders of pharmacology of the generation which isjust now passing from the scene. By 1920 the idea was quite generally accepted that the first step toward understanding the effects ofa drug is to understand the physiological (including biophysical and biochemical) background upon which it acts. From this viewpoint, any type ofexperimental study that will elucidate the latter comes within the scope ofpharmacology . Since a drug-induced change in the activity ofone part ofthe body is likely to lead to indirect effects on other parts, which may contribute to or even dominate the over-all result, pharmacology inevitably becomes interested in mechanisms through which indirect effects may be brought about. Among such mechanisms, cardiovascular reflexes are prominent, and studies ofthese have attracted the attention ofpharmacologists for many years. In at least three ofthese areas pharmacologists have made outstanding contributions: viz., the Bezold-Jarisch reflex, the reflexes ofthe carotid sinus and aortic arch regions, and the corresponding mechanisms in the pulmonary circulation. In each case there were special reasons for attracting and holding pharmacological interest, but these reasons were different enough tojustify some inquiry and speculation. I. The Bezold-Jarisch Reflex When Bezold and Hirt (5) first demonstrated that intravenous injections of alkaloids of veratrum can cause hypotension and bradycardia (even temporary asystole), which effects are completely abolished or prevented by section ofthe vagus nerves, cardiovascular reflexes were a great novelty. Pharmacology was not yet established as a distinct discipline, for this did not happen until Schmiedeberg went to Strasbourg five years later. Before he took this step, he spent a sabbatical year in Leipzig, where he supplemented his previous training (which was largely in the chemical approach to physiology) with experience in the newer physical methods under the recognized master, Carl Ludwig (3). Here he must have learned about the cardioinhibitory, cardioaccelerator, and depressor nerves, the last having recently beendiscoveredbyCyonandLudwig (6); butsince Schmiedeberg and his pupils subsequently ignored Bezold's findings, one must assume 208 Carl F. Schmidt · Pharmacology and Cardiovascular Reflexes Perspectives in Biology and Medicine · Winter 1962 either that he did not know ofthem or did not rate them as items ofsurpassing interest. It was not untilJarisch (7) restudied the Bezold reflex in !937~42 that anything further came ofit (8). Following Jarisch's work, other laboratories...

In Lieu of Money: The Rewards of Teaching

A NEW voice in the great educational debate has said that teachers are recruited from among either the dedicated or the incompetent. The remark, of course, is a variant of the older adage that people who can, do, and those who cannot, teach. Both the original and the variant are, to be sure, only half-truths at best. A student named Jay, who smelled of manure and spouted outrageous opinions like a soapbox orator, taught me that teaching can indeed have rewards not measured in money but, on the other hand, not requiring the kind of saintly commitment suggested by the word dedication. My lesson from Jay did not put steak on my table instead of hamburger or pay off a desk drawerful of pediatrician's bills, but it did convince me that I had stumbled into the right occupation. At the time, I needed convincing. I had encountered nothing to stir dedication, and I was not resigned to an admission of incompetence. As a young college history instructor, I had awakened to the brute fact that after eight long and expensive years of college training, I was earning less money than a shoe salesman. What was even worse, the future did not promise much advancement. In that year, all college professors received a national average income about equal to the average family income of the nation as a whole. I had heard that teaching compensated for proverbial low pay and status with such advantages as job satisfaction, long vacations, and low-pressure working conditions. But I was dubious-until Jay came along. I first met him as a student. He had enrolled for a survey course in Western Civilization that I was teaching at the urban nightschool division of a large state university. He was not a reading or an underachiever, or even a discipline problem, at least in any usual meaning of the jargon. He was a problem because he stood out in the class like a warty nose and because he threw himself with such abandon into class discussions that he antagonized everybody in the class, including me. He was a tall, bony youth in his early twenties, several years older than the other freshman students. He had a great shock of explosive black hair, and for the twelve weeks of the course he did not consult a barber about it. He wore soiled blue denim trousers and an equally dirty and rumpled blue denim jacket. He talked in loud, booming, rural tones, the kind of speech that vaudeville farmers