Japanese culture and society harbours particular strengths and weaknesses. These are, in turn, reflected in its institutions, including its universities. The author is a frequent visitor to Japan and is currently the visiting professor in Australian cultural studies at Tokyo University. This paper reflects on the author's experience of Japanese universities from the perspective of someone with in excess of 20 years experience as an Australian academic. Whilst not purposively controversial some of the observations may be uncomfortable. Some may also be naive as the author does not profess to understand the inner workings of Japan's tertiary sector. However the objective is to highlight some aspects of the system that to an outsider are in need of critical reflection. The tertiary education system in Japan epitomises the cultural paradox: the challenge of transforming or internationalising conservative institutions steeped in tradition.