Cosmetic Ingredient Safety Research Articles

COMPREHENSIVE REGULATIONS FOR DRUG AND COSMETICS IN EUROPEAN UNION

Pharmaceuticals are regulated for quality, safety, and effectiveness by regulators for marketing approval with regard to good manufacturing practices, formulation, labelling, packaging, documentation and qualified individuals. Cosmetics for oneself or others are growing in popularity. The European Union (EU) Cosmetics Directive No. 1223/2009 enforces guidelines for cosmetic preparations. By considering the long-term risks of nanoparticles if misused by researchers and testers, the risk assessment outlined in Article 16 of the cosmetic code provides a framework for increasing the possibilities for innovation in nano-products. On March 14, 2024, the EU Commission published Regulation (EU) 2024/858, amending Cosmetics Regulation European Commission (EC) No. 1223/2009, which updated Annexes II and III regarding the use of certain nanomaterials in cosmetic products. Substances added in Annex II are prohibited from use, whereas those added in Annex III can be used when prescribed restrictions are met like essential conditions under European regulations for the import and sale of cosmetics. In the EU, the manufacturer is responsible for the safety of its products and must ensure that they undergo an expert scientific safety assessment before they are sold. The European Commission is also advised on issues related to the safety and allergenic properties of cosmetic products and ingredients by the Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS), administered by the Directorate-General for Health and Food Safety (DG SANTE), informed by independent scientific expertise.

Safety Assessment of Mannitol, Sorbitol, and Xylitol as Used in Cosmetics.

The Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety (Panel) assessed the safety of Mannitol, Sorbitol, and Xylitol as used in cosmetics. These ingredients are reported to function as humectants, skin-conditioning agents, or flavoring agents. The Panel considered the available data and concluded that these sugar alcohol ingredients are safe in cosmetics in the present practices of use and concentration described in the safety assessment.

Safety Assessment of Ascorbyl Glucoside and Sodium Ascorbyl Glucoside as Used in Cosmetics.

The Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety (Panel) reviewed the safety of Ascorbyl Glucoside and Sodium Ascorbyl Glucoside in cosmetic products. These ingredients are reported to have the following functions in cosmetics: antioxidant, and skin-conditioning agent-miscellaneous. The Panel reviewed data relevant to the safety of these ingredients in cosmetic formulations, and concluded that Ascorbyl Glucoside and Sodium Ascorbyl Glucoside are safe in cosmetics in the present practices of use and concentration described in this safety assessment.

Safety Assessment of Wheat-Derived Ingredients as Used in Cosmetics.

The Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety (Panel) assessed the safety of 27 wheat-derived ingredients. Most of these ingredients are reported to function as skin conditioning agents in cosmetic products. The Panel reviewed the available data to determine the safety of these ingredients. Industry should continue to use good manufacturing practices to limit impurities that could be present in botanical ingredients. The Panel concluded that 21 wheat-derived ingredients are safe in cosmetics in the practices of use and concentration described in this safety assessment. However, the Panel also concluded that the available data are insufficient to make a determination of safety that the remaining six wheat-derived ingredients are safe under the intended conditions of use in cosmetic formulations.

Safety Assessment of Alkyl Amide MIPA Ingredients as Used in Cosmetics.

The Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety (Panel) assessed the safety of 14 alkyl amide MIPA ingredients as used in cosmetics. All of these ingredients are reported to function in cosmetics as a surfactant - foam booster and/or viscosity increasing agent. The Panel considered the available data, as well as data on read-across sources, and concluded these ingredients are safe in cosmetics in the present practices of use and concentration described in this safety assessment when formulated to be non-irritating.

The research on the efficacy and safety of natural active ingredients in pharmaceutical cosmetics

In recent years, pharmaceutical cosmetics have experienced rapid development in fields such as skincare and anti-aging, particularly due to the multifunctionality and safety of natural active ingredients. These natural components, including plant extracts, marine bioextracts, and animal-derived ingredients, exhibit significant antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, reparative, and anti-aging effects, making them widely used in pharmaceutical cosmetics. However, despite being considered a safe choice, potential safety issues such as allergic reactions and photosensitivity still exist. Therefore, systematically studying the efficacy and safety evaluation of natural active ingredients, especially their applications in pharmaceutical cosmetics, is of great importance for driving industry innovation and ensuring product safety. This paper analyzes common natural active ingredients, explores their efficacy and safety evaluation standards, and proposes strategies to optimize their application.

Safety Assessment of Methylxanthines as Used in Cosmetics.

The Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety (Panel) assessed the safety of three methylxanthines, Caffeine, Theobromine, and Theophylline, as used in cosmetics. All of these ingredients are reported to function as skin-conditioning agents in cosmetic products. The Panel reviewed the data relevant to the safety of these ingredients and concluded that Caffeine, Theobromine, and Theophylline are safe in cosmetics in the present practices of use and concentration described in this safety assessment.

Safety Assessment of Vinylpyrrolidone Polymers as Used in Cosmetics.

The Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety (Panel) reviewed the safety of 30 vinylpyrrolidone polymers as used in cosmetic products; most of these ingredients have the reported cosmetic function of film former in common. The Panel reviewed data relevant to the safety of these ingredients, and determined that 27 vinylpyrrolidone polymers are safe in cosmetics in the present practices of use and concentration described in the safety assessment. The Panel also concluded that the available data are insufficient to make a determination that 3 vinylpyrrolidone polymers (all urethanes) are safe under the intended conditions of use in cosmetic formulations.

Safety Assessment of Polyol Phosphates as Used in Cosmetics.

The Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety (Panel) reviewed the safety of 10 polyol phosphates. Some of the possible functions in cosmetics that are reported for this ingredient group are chelating agents, oral care agents, and skin conditioning agents. The Panel reviewed relevant data relating to the safety of these ingredients under the intended conditions of use in cosmetic formulations, and concluded that Sodium Phytate, Phytic Acid, Phytin, and Trisodium Inositol Triphosphate are safe in cosmetics in the present practices of use and concentration described in the safety assessment. The Panel also concluded that the data are insufficient to determine the safety of the following 6 ingredients as used in cosmetics: Disodium Glucose Phosphate, Manganese Fructose Diphosphate, Sodium Mannose Phosphate, Trisodium Fructose Diphosphate, Xylityl Phosphate, and Zinc Fructose Diphosphate.

Safety Assessment of Alkanoyl Lactyl Lactate Salts as Used in Cosmetics.

The Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety (Panel) reviewed the safety of 10 alkanoyl lactyl lactate salts. These ingredients have the surfactant function in cosmetics in common. The Panel reviewed data relevant to the safety of these ingredients, and concluded that these 10 ingredients are safe in cosmetics in the present practices of use and concentration described in the safety assessment when formulated to be nonirritating and nonsensitizing, which may be based on a quantitative risk assessment (QRA) or other accepted methodologies.

Itch-Relieving Cosmetics

This review aims to explore the evolving role of cosmetics in alleviating itch, transcending their traditional aesthetic function. With a focus on formulations enriched with natural oils and other bioactive components, we examine the efficacy and safety of various cosmetic ingredients designed to control itch. Highlighted are ingredients such as colloidal oatmeal, postbiotics, menthol, peppermint, cryosim-1, capsaicin, asivatrep, polidocanol, pramoxine hydrocholoride, and palmitoylethanolamide, which are recognized to reduce itch. Special attention is also given to phytochemicals that can modulate the Janus kinase/signal transducer and activator of transcription signaling pathway and carry the potential as an itch-relieving cosmetic ingredient. This review encompasses clinical studies that verify the itch relieving effect of these cosmetic ingredients. By integrating current scientific evidence, we aim to shed light on the potential of anti-itch cosmetics as an adjunct to standard itch treatment, thereby broadening our understanding of their role in dermatological care.

Sodium Dehydroacetate and Dehydroacetic Acid.

The Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety (Panel) first published a safety assessment of Sodium Dehydroacetate and Dehydroacetic Acid in 1985. The Panel previously concluded that Sodium Dehydroacetate and Dehydroacetic Acid are safe as used in the present practices of use and concentration, as stated in that report. Upon re-review in 2003, the Panel reaffirmed the original conclusion, as published in 2006. The Panel reviewed updated frequency and concentration of use data again in 2023, in addition to any newly available, relevant safety data. Considering this information, as well as the information provided in the original safety assessment and the prior re-review document, the Panel reaffirmed the 1985 conclusion.

Evaluation of the Safety of Cosmetic Ingredients and Their Skin Compatibility through In Silico and In Vivo Assessments of a Newly Developed Eye Serum.

The term "risk assessment" is often substituted with "safety assessment", to demonstrate the safe properties of cosmetic ingredients and formulations. With respect to the actual legislative framework, the proper use of in silico evaluation could offer a representative non-animal substitute for the toxicity evaluation of cosmetic ingredients. The in silico assessment needs to be integrated with other lines of proof (in vitro and/or in vivo data) in the form of a complex methodology in order to demonstrate the safety evaluation of cosmetic ingredients/products. The present study aimed to develop and characterize a new cosmetic formulation, designed for the skin care of the periorbital area. Quality control comprising stability, physicochemical, and microbiological evaluation was performed. Another objective of this study was to present a screening model for the safety evaluation of the cosmetic formulation by identifying individual ingredients, and to confirm the skin compatibility based on in vivo evaluation. The results demonstrated the in silico and in vivo safety profile of the cosmetic ingredients used in the present formulation. In silico evaluation, using a novel, specific software applicable for the risk evaluation of ingredients and formulations, showed that the incorporated ingredients were non-mutagenic and non-sensitizing, and considering the margin of safety (MoS), the cosmetic raw materials could be considered safe. Skin compatibility was confirmed by the patch test performed under dermatological control, evidencing the "non-irritating" potential of the developed cosmetic formulation.

Isobutane, Isopentane, Butane, and Propane.

The Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety (Panel) first published the Final Report of the safety of Isobutane, Isopentane, Butane, and Propane in 1982. The Panel previously concluded that these ingredients are considered safe as cosmetic ingredients under the present conditions of concentration and use, as described in that safety assessment. Upon re-review in 2002, the Panel reaffirmed the original conclusion, as published in 2005. The Panel reviewed update frequency and concentration of use data again in 2023, in addition to newly available, relevant safety data. Considering this information, as well as the information provided in the original safety assessment and the prior re-review document, the Panel reaffirmed the 1982 conclusion for Isobutane, Isopentane, Butane, and Propane.

Safety Assessment of Triphenyl Phosphate as Used in Cosmetics.

The Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety (Panel) assessed the safety of Triphenyl Phosphate, which is reported to function as a plasticizer in manicuring products. The Panel reviewed the available data to determine the safety of this ingredient. The Panel concluded that Triphenyl Phosphate is safe in cosmetics in the present practices of use and concentration described in this safety assessment.

Cosmetic Formulations from Natural Sources: Safety Considerations and Legislative Frameworks in the European Union

Consumer preferences, safety, and sustainability aspects of conventional cosmetic ingredients have contributed to an increase in the demand for natural cosmetic ingredients and products. Naturally derived active cosmetic agents and excipients may come into contact with various naturally occurring and synthetic contaminants throughout the supply chain, and substantiating their safety is essential. This review examines the safety and legislative requirements applicable to natural cosmetic ingredients in the European Union (EU). Cosmetic safety requirements include technical data based on the ingredient profile, presence of hazards and the risks associated with the intended conditions of use. The hazard analysis includes screening for microbial contaminants such as aerobic mesophilic bacteria, Escherichia coli, Pseudomonas aeruginosa, Staphylococcus aureus, and Candida albicans; chemical contaminants such as lead, cadmium, arsenic, and mercury; and naturally occurring toxins, such as allergens. The toxicological assessment considers both local effects (such as skin sensitisation, eye/skin irritation, and photo-induced effects) and systemic effects (including acute dermal toxicity, sub-acute and sub-chronic toxicity, mutagenicity and carcinogenicity, reproductive toxicity, and toxicokinetics). The EU legislative requirements prohibit the use of animal-based tests for the toxicological evaluation of cosmetic ingredients, paving the way for alternatives termed as New Approach Methodologies (NAMs). The validation of NAMs is critical for their wider usage, and despite advancements, few have been validated, particularly for systemic toxicity testing. The use of NAMs in evaluating the safety of complex natural cosmetic ingredients is further examined.

Zinc Phenolsulfonate.

The Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety reviewed newly available studies since their original assessment in 1986 and a previous re-review in 2004, along with updated information regarding product types and concentrations of use. Considering this information, the Panel confirmed that Zinc Phenolsulfonate is safe as a cosmetic ingredient in the present practices of use and concentration as described in this report.

Laneth Acetates.

The Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety reviewed newly available studies since their original assessment in 1982 and a previous re-review in 2002, along with updated information regarding product types and concentrations of use. Considering this information, the Panel confirmed that Laneth-9 Acetate and Laneth-10 Acetate are safe for topical application to humans in the present practices of use and concentration as described in this report.

Safety assessment of Paeonia lactiflora root extract for a cosmetic ingredient employing the threshold of toxicological concern (TTC) approach

Botanical extracts, widely used in cosmetics, pose a challenge to safety assessment due to their complex compositions. The threshold of toxicological concern (TTC) approach, offering a safe exposure level for cosmetic ingredients, proves to be a promising solution for ensuring the safety of cosmetic ingredients with low exposure level. We assessed the safety of Paeonia lactiflora root extract (PLR), commonly used in skin conditioning products, with the TTC. We identified 50 constituents of PLR extract from the USDA database and literature exploration. Concentration of each constituent of PLR extract was determined with the information from USDA references, literature, and experimental analysis. The genotoxicity of PLR and its constituents was assessed in vitro and in silico respectively. Cramer class of the constituents of the PLR extract was determined with Toxtree 3.1 extended decision tree using ChemTunes®. Systemic exposure of each constituent from leave-on type cosmetic products containing PLR at a 1% concentration was estimated and compared with respective TTC threshold. Two constituents exceeding TTC threshold were further analyzed for dermal absorption using in silico tools, which confirmed the safety of PLR extract in cosmetics. Collectively, we demonstrated that the TTC is a useful tool for assessing botanical extract safety in cosmetics.

Safety Assessment of Palm-Derived Ingredients as Used in Cosmetics.

The Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety (Panel) reviewed the safety of 8 palm tree (Euterpe edulis (juçara) and Euterpe oleracea (açaí))-derived ingredients as used in cosmetic products; these ingredients are reported to function mostly as skin conditioning agents. The Panel reviewed relevant data relating to the safety of these ingredients in cosmetic formulations. Industry should continue to use good manufacturing practices to limit impurities. The Panel concluded that palm tree (açaí and juçara)-derived ingredients are safe in cosmetics in the present practices of use and concentration described in this safety assessment.