Cosmetic Agents Research Articles

Simultaneous determination of 22 sunscreen agents in cosmetics by ultra-high-performance liquid chromatography using diode array detector

建立了一种超高效液相色谱-二极管阵列检测法同时测定不同种类化妆品中22种防晒剂的方法。样品首先加入少量四氢呋喃,涡旋、分散、混匀(蜡质化妆品可于50 ℃超声,以便分散完全),然后加入0.1%(v/v)甲酸乙醇溶液振摇、超声提取,稀释、过滤后经Poroshell 120 EC-C18(100 mm×4.6 mm, 2.7 μm)分离,乙腈-异丙醇-50 mmol/L乙酸铵水溶液(含0.05%(v/v)甲酸)梯度洗脱,二极管阵列检测器检测,检测波长311 nm,外标法定量。结果表明,22种防晒剂在各自的范围内线性关系良好,相关系数(r)均在0.998以上。选取两种不同基质类型的样品,在低、中、高3个不同添加水平下的平均回收率为85.2%~112.3%,相对标准偏差(RSD)在0.5%~6.5%之间,方法的检出限和定量限分别为0.7~64 mg/kg和2.4~215 mg/kg。在2、10、50 mg/L3个水平的混合标准溶液的稳定性试验中,甲酚曲唑三硅氧烷组分12 h内稳定,其余组分36 h内稳定。采用该方法测定市售16份化妆品中的防晒剂,其中5份样品检测结果与厂家提供的配方值匹配良好。与《化妆品安全技术规范》(2015年版)收载方法相比,该方法在流动相组成和提取溶剂选择方面,摒弃了四氢呋喃和高氯酸等腐蚀性溶剂的使用,改善了弱极性组分的提取效率,同时增加了检测组分二苯酮-2,被测物稳定性更好,实验操作更便利高效,分离效果更好,结果更准确,兼顾绿色环保,可用于化妆品防晒剂的日常检测。

Neonatal lower limb gangrene

Limb gangrene is a common orthopedic emergency in this part of the world, but neonatal limb gangrene is a rare pathology. Sepsis is a common complication of limb gangrene which can lead to mortality if not managed early. Here is a case of left leg gangrene in a 16-day-old female neonate following the application of local cosmetic agent ("lele") by the mother prior to naming ceremony. The patient presented with features of septicemia; she was resuscitated, and left below-knee amputation was done for her. Harmful and unnecessary cosmetics should be avoided in neonates.

Modification of carboxymethyl inulin with heterocyclic compounds: Synthesis, characterization, antioxidant and antifungal activities

A series of novel inulin derivatives were designed and synthesized by the introduction of amino heterocyclic moieties onto carboxymethyl inulin with the aid of 1-ethyl-3-(3-dimethylaminopropyl) carbodiimide hydrochloride and N-hydroxysuccinimide. The target products were prepared via three - step chemical synthesis, and structures were identified by FTIR and 1H NMR spectroscopy. Antioxidant activities of inulin derivatives including DPPH - radical scavenging assay, superoxide - radical scavenging assay, hydroxyl - radical scavenging assay, and reducing power were estimated. Meanwhile, their antifungal activities, including Colletotrichum lagenarium and Botrytis cinerea, were also explored by hyphal measurement. In particular, inulin derivatives bearing heterocyclic moieties exhibited a remarkable improvement over inulin on antioxidant and antifungal activities, and their bioactivities decreased roughly in the order of 2ATCMI > 4APCMI > 3APCMI > 2APCMI > 3ATCMI > CMI > inulin. Furthermore, the cytotoxicities of inulin derivatives against L929 cells were evaluated by CCK-8 in vitro, and all samples showed weak cytotoxicities. In a nutshell, the paper provides a practical approach to synthesize novel inulin derivatives with dramatically enhanced bioactivity and good biocompatibility. The product described in paper might serve as a new leading structure for further design of antioxidants or antifungal agents in biomedicine, cosmetics, and other fields.

Synthesis of Colloidal Silver Nanoparticles in Various Liquid Media Using Pulse Laser Ablation Method and Its Antibacterial Properties

The silver nanoparticles (AgNPs) have been applied as an antibacterial agent in consumer products, cosmetics, and food industries. In this present work, AgNPs were synthesized in various mediums of polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP), polyethylene glycol (PEG), and chitosan using the pulse laser ablation synthesis method. Experimentally, a pulse Nd:YAG laser beam (1064 nm, 7 ns, 30 mJ) was directed using a silver mirror and focused using a quartz lens with a focal length of 30 mm on a silver metal plate placed in a petri dish containing liquid mediums for 120 min to produce colloidal silver nanoparticles. The results certified that All AgNPs have a spherical shape with polydisperse size in all media, including PVP, PEG, and chitosan. The smallest AgNPs have been produced in PVP medium with an averaged smallest size of 11.62 nm. Based on this result, PVP is the preferred medium to produce AgNPs with the smallest size and good stability. The produced silver nanoparticles have been successfully employed as an antibacterial agent, which is experimentally demonstrated by using Escherichia coli and Staphylococcus aureus. The result certified that the produced silver nanoparticles could effectively kill the bacteria with a killing percentage of 99.6 to 100%.

Phenolic Compounds from Leaves and Flowers of Hibiscus roseus: Potential Skin Cosmetic Applications of an Under-Investigated Species.

The use of plant extracts in skin-care cosmetics is a modern trend due to their richness in polyphenols that act as anti-aging molecules. Hibiscus roseus is a perennial species naturalized in Italy, with beautiful soft pink flowers; its phenolic composition and biological activities have not been studied yet. The aim of this study was to characterize and quantify the phenolics and to evaluate the antioxidant, sun protection factor (SPF), and anti-collagenase activities of the ethanolic extracts of H. roseus leaves (HL) and flowers (HF). p-Coumaric, chlorogenic, and trans-ferulic acids derivatives as well as quercetin and kaempferol flavonoids were the main phenolic compounds detected. Catechin, epicatechin, kaempferol-3-O-rutinoside, kaempferol-3-O-glucoside, kaempferol-7-O-glucoside, tiliroside, oenin, and peonidin-3-O-glucoside were detected only in HF, while phloridzin was exclusive from HL, which also showed greater amounts of hydroxycinnamic acid derivatives. HF was richer in flavonoids and total phenolics, also exhibiting greater antioxidant capacity. The SPF and anti-collagenase activity of both extracts were similar and comparable to those of synthetic standards. The overall results demonstrate that H. roseus extracts are promising sources of bioactive phenolic compounds that could be potentially applied as anti-aging agents in skin-care cosmetics.

ANTIBACTERIAL AND ANTIOXIDANT ACTIVITIES OF THE ESSENTIAL OIL OF CUMINUM CYMINUM SEEDS

Cuminum cyminum (in arabic: Kemoun) is an important source of therapeutic, cosmetic, bio-food and technological agents. Ancient civilizations used this plant for therapeutic purposes. Extracts from this plant are nowadays strongly used in the industrial and research fields, particularly for the medicinal, pharmacological and cosmetological purposes. Bioactive molecules extracted from Cuminum cyminum may express biocidal activities and prove to be good candidates for new antioxidants. The objective of the present work is to evaluate the biological properties of this plant, including antibacterial and antioxidant effects. The seeds of cumin are harvested at the wilaya of Biskra, and stored in a dry place until their use. They were identified at Hassiba Benbouali University of Chlef. Essential oil is obtained by hydro-distillation using a Clivenger type device (AFNOR, 2000). The obtained sample is stored in sealed bottles at low temperature (4°C) and away from light. The antibacterial effect is assessed by the disc method. The minimum inhibitory concentration (MIC) is determined by standard methods. The antioxidant activity is evaluated by the DPPH free radical trapping method of the methanolic extracts. The essential oil of C. cyminum shows a better activity against Gram+ strains compared to Gram- strains. The determination of MICs leads to the conclusion that its activity can be triggered at a very low concentration. The reaction with DPPH gives an interesting IC50. This testifies to the ability of this essential oil to reduce free radicals. Thanks to the antibacterial activities that we have highlighted, cumin can be considered as a palliative that could replace certain antibiotics. Moreover, its antioxidant activity allows us to use it as a natural food additive.

Effect of 7-Methylsulfinylheptyl Isothiocyanate on the Inhibition of Melanogenesis in B16-F1 Cells.

Skin aging, characterized by hyperpigmentation, inflammation, wrinkles, and skin cancer, is influenced by intrinsic and extrinsic factors with synergistic effects. Autophagy maintains the homeostatic balance between the degradation, synthesis, and recycling of cellular proteins and organelles, and plays important roles in several cellular and biological processes, including aging. The compound 7-methylsulfinylheptyl isothiocyanate (7-MSI) is a sulfur-containing phytochemical produced by various plants, particularly cruciferous vegetables, with reported anti-inflammatory properties and a role in pathogen defense; however, its effects on skin whitening have not been studied in detail. The purpose of this study was to observe the effects of 7-MSI on skin whitening and autophagy in cultured murine melanoma (B16-F1) cells. Western blotting was used to evaluate the impact of 7-MSI on melanogenesis-, tyrosinase-, and autophagy-associated proteins. The levels of the melanogenesis-associated protein’s microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF) and tyrosinase and tyrosinase-related protein-1 were decreased by treatment with 7-MSI under melanogenesis induction. Melanin synthesis also decreased by approximately 63% after treatment with 7-MSI for 73 h, compared with that non-treated controls. In addition, autophagosome formation and the expression levels of the autophagy-related proteins mTOR, p-mTOR, Beclin-1, Atg12, and LC3 were higher in 7-MSI-treated B16-F1 cells than in non-treated cells. These results indicate that 7-MSI can inhibit melanin synthesis in B16-F1 cells by suppressing melanogenesis and autophagy activation and thus can potentially be used as a novel multifunctional cosmetic agent.

Nitric Oxide Generating Formulation as an Innovative Approach to Topical Skin Care: An Open-Label Pilot Study

Nitric oxide (NO) plays multiple roles in both normal and abnormal skin processes. Its deranging disbalance is involved in the pathogenesis of multiple dermatologic diseases such as acne vulgaris, pointing towards beneficial therapeutic directions. A novel NO-producing gel-formulation was tested beneficial in the treatment of acne vulgaris in an open-label pilot study using clinical evaluation scores. It showed a decrease of comedones and inflammatory pustulae and reduced the Global Acne Grading System score by 50% within eight weeks. In addition, we demonstrate a potential use as cosmetic agent where NO therapy leads to an increase of skin integrity and a reduction of skin ageing processes.

Inhibitory Effect and Mechanism of Scutellarein on Melanogenesis

Fairer skin is preferred in many Asian countries and there is a high demand for skin whitening and lightening products. However, in recent years, problems related to the safety of using whitening agents have emerged. This study demonstrates that plant-derived scutellarein effectively inhibits melanogenesis in B16 melanoma cells. However, baicalein, which is similar to scutellarein in its chemical structure, does not show any inhibitory effect on melanogenesis. Cellular tyrosinase activity is decreased by scutellarein in a dose-dependent manner. No cytotoxicity is observed at the effective concentration range. Additionally, both the protein and mRNA levels of tyrosinase are significantly decreased by scutellarein. Further, the risk of leukoderma development also is determined by evaluating the production of free hydroxyl radicals (˙OH); scutellarein treatment does not induce ˙OH production. Scutellarein shows no risk of causing leukoderma. Our results suggest that scutellarein or plant extracts containing high concentrations of scutellarein have the potential to inhibit melanin production and serve as cosmetic skin-lightening agents.

Clinical brightening efficacy and safety of Melasolv™ (3,4,5-trimethoxy cinnamate thymol ester, TCTE) in Southeast Asian women.

Skin darkening because of increased and irregular synthesis of melanin causes melasma, solar lentigo, and freckles. Melasolv™, produced in the early 2000s, shows potent depigmenting effect and has low cytotoxicity. It has been used as a brightening agent in cosmetics for decades. This study was conducted to investigate whether Melasolv™ is effective for the skin of ASEAN (Southeast Asia) women. We recruited ASEAN women in Singapore and divided them into two groups (active group vs. placebo group). Melasolv™ and placebo formulations were applied twice a day for 12weeks. The changes in the pigmented spots were visually evaluated by an expert and assessed using a spectrophotometer and Mexameter at 0, 4, 8, and 12weeks. The visual evaluation revealed significant improvements, in both size and color intensity, in the active group compared with those in the placebo group at 12weeks. In the spectrophotometric evaluation, the L* value of the pigmented spots in the active group was significantly higher than that in the placebo group at 12weeks. Similar results were obtained in the evaluation using the Mexameter. After 12weeks, the melanin index of the pigmented spots significantly decreased, and it was significantly higher than that in the placebo group. There was no significant change in the erythema index. In the image analysis, there were no significant differences in skin color brightness and evenness in the active group compared with those in the placebo group. Melasolv™ can be effective used for skin brightening.

Arbutin alleviates diabetic symptoms by attenuating oxidative stress in a mouse model of type 1 diabetes

Arbutin is a well-known tyrosinase inhibitor that prevents the formation of melanin through the inhibition of tyrosinase. Therefore, it has been widely used as a cosmetic skin-lightening agent. Arbutin is able to scavenge free radicals within cells and previous studies have found that it also exhibited useful activities for the treatment of diuresis, bacterial infections, and cancer, as well as anti-inflammatory and anti-tussive activities. This study analyzed the effects of arbutin on streptozotocin (STZ)-induced diabetes mellitus in a murine model. Healthy male adult C57BL/6 mice (7 weeks old) were randomly allocated into one of the following three groups of six animals: Normal control with no STZ administration, STZ-induced diabetes, and STZ-induced diabetes treated with 0.3 g/kg/day of arbutin. After 12 days, the levels of insulin, C-peptide, and HbA1c were measured in serum, and the expression and enzymatic activities of superoxide dismutase (SOD), catalase (CAT), and glutathione peroxidase (GPx) were analyzed in pancreatic tissues by western blotting. Arbutin was found to significantly inhibit the increase in blood glucose and the loss of body weight in diabetic mice. Arbutin increased plasma insulin levels in mice with STZ-induced diabetes, whereas there was no detection of insulin in untreated diabetic mice. In addition, there was an increased expression and activity of SOD, CAT, and GPx in diabetic mice treated with arbutin. This investigation demonstrated that arbutin possesses antioxidant activities and can alleviate symptoms of type-1 diabetes mellitus (T1DM) in mice.

Transcriptome Profiling of Human Follicle Dermal Papilla Cells in response to Porphyra-334 Treatment by RNA-Seq.

Porphyra-334 is a kind of mycosporine-like amino acid absorbing ultraviolet-A. Here, we characterized porphyra-334 as a potential antiaging agent. An in vitro assay revealed that porphyra-334 dramatically promoted collagen synthesis in fibroblast cells. The effect of porphyra-334 on cell proliferation was dependent on the cell type, and the increase of cell viability by porphyra-334 was the highest in keratinocyte cells among the three tested cell types. An in vivo clinical test with 22 participants demonstrated the possible role of porphyra-334 in the improvement of periorbital wrinkles. RNA-sequencing using human follicle dermal papilla (HFDP) cells upon porphyra-334 treatment identified the upregulation of metallothionein- (MT-) associated genes, confirming the antioxidant role of porphyra-334 with MT. Moreover, the expression of genes involved in nuclear chromosome segregation and the encoding of components of kinetochores was upregulated by porphyra-334 treatment. Furthermore, we found that several genes associated with the hair follicle cycle, the hair follicle structure, the epidermal structure, and stem cells were upregulated by porphyra-334 treatment, suggesting the potential role of porphyra-334 in hair follicle growth and maintenance. In summary, we provided several new pieces of evidence of porphyra-334 as a potential antiaging cosmetic agent and elucidated the expression network in HFDP cells upon porphyra-334.

Extracts of red seaweed, Pyropia yezoensis, inhibit melanogenesis but stimulate collagen synthesis

Owing to increasing concern regarding human well-being and quality of life, the demand for natural products is increased, leading to the development of a market for biological and natural products. This study aimed to investigate the depigmentation and anti-ageing properties of red seaweed (Pyropia yezoensis) extracts for skin care applications. Within the tested range of concentrations (100, 200, 400, and 800 μg mL−1), P. yezoensis extracts did not exert cytotoxic effects on the three skin cell lines tested: mouse melanocytes (Melan-A), human dermal fibroblasts (1064 SK), and human dermal keratinocytes (HaCaT cells). No significant statistical difference (p = 0.05) was detected in the melanin content between cells exposed to 100 μg mL−1 of arbutin and 800 μg mL−1 of P. yezoensis extracts, indicating that P. yezoensis extracts had an potent inhibitory effect on melanogenesis as arbutin. There was a significant decrease in tyrosinase activity by 59.3% and 35.5% after treatment with arbutin and P. yezoensis extracts, respectively. These results indicated that P. yezoensis extracts had strong tyrosinase inhibitory properties but were not as effective as arbutin. P. yezoensis extracts also promoted collagen production by inhibiting collagen-degrading enzymes (matrix metalloproteinase (MMP)-2 and MMP-9) and promoting procollagen synthesis enzymes (tyrosinase-related protein (TRP)-1 and TRP-2). Evaluation of skin brightness and melanin content and dermatological assessment showed that P. yezoensis extracts enhanced skin brightness and reduced melanin content in 23 volunteers. Our results suggest that P. yezoensis extracts can be used as functional cosmetic agents to prevent, or remediate skin ageing and pigmentation.

Efficacy of Botulinum Toxin Stereotype A and Its Relevant Mechanisms of Action in Both Cosmetic and Therapeutic Uses

Onabotulinumtoxin A (Botox®) is a parasympathetic autonomic blocking agent which acts as an inhibitor of the neuromuscular transmitter acetylcholine release and as a neuromuscular blocking agent, thereby inducing relaxation of selected muscle fibers for a duration of up to approximately 3 months duration. First approved by the FDA in 1989 and approved for further applications since 1991, the drug has now gained wide acceptance in cosmetic and other therapeutic applications, where the autonomic neurotransmitter acetylcholine blockade can bring about favorable cosmetic responses, particularly in the field of dermatology and cosmetic medicine. Since the original application of Onabotulinumtoxin A was approved for clinical use as a cosmetic agent, numerous additional applications have been approved by the FDA, all of which involve acetylcholine-mediated neuromuscular actions.

In-vitro hypoglycemic activity of lawsonia inermis Linn. Leaf extracts

in-vitro hypoglycemic activity of lawsonia inermis Linn. Leaf extracts

Variation of photosynthetic pigments and biochemical screening in some seaweeds from Eastern Harbor, Alexandria, Egypt

The current study examined the biochemical composition of four seaweeds (Ulva fasciata, Ulva compressa, Corallina officinalis, and Corallina elongate) which were collected from Eastern Harbor located at Alexandria Mediterranean coast, Egypt. Total chlorophyll content was the maximum in Ulva compressa (2.7 mg g–1 FW) and the minimum value was observed in Corallina elongate (0.90 mg g–1 FW). In comparison, the maximum carotenoids were registered in Corallina officinalis (1.04 mg g–1 FW) followed by Corallina elongate (0.86 mg g–1 FW). The lowest ratio was recorded in Ulva fasciata (0.45 mg g–1 FW). The results showed that the green seaweed (Ulva compressa) contained the highest amounts of phenols (12.7 mgGA/g dry wt.), flavonoid (9.42 mgCA/g dry wt.) and has the maximum percentage of DPPH radical scavenging capacity, Total antioxidant capacity (TAC) assay, and Total Reducing Capacity (TRC) (80.45, 12.5 and 71.6 respectively). On the other hand, the red seaweed (Corallina elongate) contained the lowest amounts of phenols (5.9 mgGA/g dry wt.), flavonoid (8.29 mgCA/g dry wt.), and has the maximum percentage of DPPH, TAC, and TRC (70.3, 8.4, and 57.8 respectively). Due to seaweed's biochemical composition, these findings recommend being used as an antioxidant agent for food supplements, cosmetics, medicinal applications, and pharmaceutical industries.

Isolation of Three New Diterpenes from Dodonaea viscosa.

An investigation into the methanol extracts obtained from the stems of Dodonaea viscosa led to the isolation of one nor-clerodane diterpene (1) and two labdane diterpenes (2, 3), as well as 17 known compounds (4-20). The structures of these compounds were elucidated based on chemical and spectral evidence. The stereochemical structure of the nor-clerodane diterpene was confirmed via its circular dichroism spectrum and calculated electronic circular dichroism spectrum. Isolated compounds were evaluated for their inhibitory effects on collagenase and tyrosinase. Since 5,7,4'-trihydroxy-3'-(4-hydroxy-3-methylbutyl)-5'-(3-methylbut-2-enyl)-3,6-dimethoxyflavone (9) showed collagenase inhibitory activity and scopoletin (12) had significant tyrosinase inhibitory activity, they were considered to be good candidates for cosmetic agents.

EXTRACTION AND CHARACTERIZATION OF CURCUMIN FROM TURMERIC RHIZOMES GROWN IN MÉRIDA, VENEZUELA

The extraction of naturally occurring compounds is one of the fastest-growing industries because of its benefits against its synthetic analogs. Environmental protection must require the use of natural products instead of chemicals to minimize pollution. Thus, this investigation studies the use of some natural product, as curcumin, as naturally occurring acid‐base indicators. Curcumin can be used as acid-base indicators since it was found that it possesses pH-dependent solubility. Curcumin, the major active component of turmeric, Curcuma longa (Zingiberaceae), is used as a spice in curry and as a coloring agent in yellow mustards, cosmetics, pharmaceuticals, and hair dyes. In this research, the main compound colored rhizome of turmeric (Curcuma longa) cultivated in Mérida, Venezuela, is extracted: Curcumin (C21H20O6) (1E,6E)-1,7-bis(4-hydroxy-3-methoxyphenyl)-1,6-heptadiene-3,5-dione, in a yield of 3.42% after 8 hours of extraction using soxhlet extractor system with organic solvents (hexane and ethanol). The thin-layer chromatography and column performed separation and purification using a mobile phase, a mixture of chloroform-hexane 3:2. The dye was characterized by spectroscopic analysis of visible ultraviolet (UV-Vis) and infrared (IR), in addition to his studio in steering sensitivity as an acid-base indicator. This dye is useful as an acid-base indicator in strong acid-strong base volumes and did not require large amounts of it as it has high sensitivity. The results indicate that curcumin as an acid-base indicator allows the development of new standards in different chemistry fields that require this type of analysis.

Design, synthesis, in vitro and in silico studies of novel Schiff base derivatives of 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzamide as tyrosinase inhibitors.

Due to the fact that tyrosinase is responsible for biosynthesis and regulation of melanins and browning food products, tyrosinase inhibitors can be favorable agents in cosmetics and medicinal industries. A series of novel 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzohydrazide were designed, synthesized, and their new application as tyrosinase inhibitors was also disclosed. Based on in vitro tyrosinase inhibitory assay, 4d as the strongest inhibitor of tyrosinase with an IC50 value of 7.57 μM showed approximately 2.5-fold better inhibition than kojic acid as positive control followed by two compounds 4b (IC50 = 8.19 ± 0.25 μM) and 4j (IC50 = 8.92 ± 0.016) which displayed preferable tyrosinase inhibitory activity. Detailed investigations on the mechanism of action of the 4d reported mix type of inhibition. More importantly, molecular modeling assessments proposed the ability of 4d for potential interaction with Cu (metal)-His (residue) within tyrosinase active site. Overall, 4d is a promising candidate for the development of anti-tyrosinase agents.

Cloning, expression and enzymatic characterization of recombinant eugenol oxidase (EUGO) in Escherichia coli

Eugenol oxidase (EUGO), a member of the vanillyl alcohol oxidase family, catalyzes the oxidative reaction of vanillyl alcohol to vanillin. This compound is responsible for the vanilla aroma and is widely used as a flavoring agent in food, cosmetics, and pharmaceuticals. Previously, EUGO was cloned and expressed in E. coli TOP10, and purified by anion-exchange chromatography with Q-Sepharose resin but the purification factor was low. To improve the efficiency of the EUGO purification, in this study, we cloned eugo gene into pET-28a vector and expressed it in E. coli Tunetta. The SDS-PAGE analysis of protein extracts obtained from E. coli expressing EUGO under different induction conditions showed that EUGO was expressed mostly in the soluble fraction at 6 hours after induction with 0.1 mM IPTG at 25oC. EUGO was purified by immobilized−metal affinity chromatography with Ni2+-NTA agarose and the in vitro enzymatic activity was characterized. The specific activity of purified EUGO was nearly 4-fold higher than that of the crude enzyme sample. In particular, the enzyme preparation produced by the purification method based on Ni-NTA affinity in this study was 2,5-fold more pure than that produced by Q-sepharose purification method described previously.