Acquired Tastes may be an edited collection, but it makes a single, convincing argument—the modern US food system is a product of the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries, not of the last seventy years, as so many food writers (e.g., Michael Pollan) have argued. The volume's editors and authors effectively trace to this earlier period many aspects we think of as integral to “modern” food, including celebrity endorsements, plant-based meat, transnational distribution, and the labeling of mass-produced foods as “natural.” Acquired Tastes is a fun collection of well-written pieces that will be useful for scholars, viable for the classroom, and entertaining for foodies.The collection is divided into three sections. The first concerns the constriction of time and space that made modern food possible. The second concerns contests over trust—in both industrialized food products and in the system that provides this food. The third and final section considers the scientific advances that made “modern” food possible—and how people sold those advances to consumers.The editors are (perhaps rightly) loose in their definition of “modern” food; hence, the topics covered by this collection are myriad and fascinating. Readers will learn about the replacement of “real” sugar by corn syrup, the selling of bananas through both sex and race, and the importance of urban food carts, which reduced the likelihood that transported fruits would decay. Authors introduce mysteries that readers might not have considered. Want to know why the United States fails to feature many Filipino restaurants or how European beer styles were invented? Readers will find intriguing answers in this volume. Despite the pieces' variety, many themes run through the collection, including the importance of light versus dark foods, the growing use of food science, and the significance of food justice before we had a name for it.The volume, of course, does not cover every aspect of modern food. The book focuses largely on the United States, with some attention to other locations, most of which are in Europe. Some of the authors discuss the growing and raising of food. For instance, we hear about the role of 4-H in bringing nutritional science to rural areas and about the “ghost acres” created when California's Central Valley became a wheat producer, but the book's authors place more of an emphasis on the roles played by industrial packaging, laboratory work, and advertisers than on farms and agricultural labor.This reader is a sucker for edited volumes—there is something wonderful about a shared intellectual project. Such collections do, of course, face common pitfalls, most of which this collection artfully avoids. One common issue for edited volumes concerns the often uneven quality of contributions, particularly of the writing. However, the editors of this book cared deeply about the craft of writing. The acknowledgments section explains that the editors held a workshop about nonfiction writing with many of the contributors. They even asked a writing coach to provide guidance! The result is a collection written mostly by academics (and hence with their attention to citations, historical context, and the research process), but its brief pieces read more like magazine essays than like scholarly articles. Acquired Tastes, therefore, provides an engaging set of snippets from exciting recent and forthcoming projects. It deserves wide readership.
Read full abstract