BackgroundThe quality grade of an olive oil is defined according to the results of analytical and organoleptic examinations.The increasing attention towards both olive oil quality and quality verification methods prompted us to undertake a “critical” analysis of analytical and sensory data supplied by an International Certificated Body (ICB), relative to commercial olive oils produced in Mediterranean areas and purchased in Italy and in USA.MethodsICB data included chemical analyses namely free acidity, peroxide index, spectrophotometric UV evaluation, fatty acid ethyl esters and stigmadiens content and organoleptic evaluations carried out by nine official International Olive Council labs according to EEC Regulation 2568/91.ResultsThe results of the chemical analyses, except the fatty acid ethyl ester content, obtained from the nine labs were consistent giving rise to the same quality grade. In nearly all samples, the fatty acid ethyl ester content was close to the threshold established for extra virgin olive oils indicating a non-excellent quality of the olive oils. Organoleptic evaluations, commonly called panel test, given by the nine labs were not consistent.ConclusionsThe EEC Regulation 2568/91 does not give any indication on the way to report the uncertainty of the results, and in the case of extra virgin olive oils with a borderline value, the way to report the fatty acid ethyl ester content, with or without the uncertainty, can create confusion in defining the olive oil quality grade. Panel test seemed to work well only in the case of extremely good olive oils, whereas, in commercial extra virgin olive oils with borderline value of fatty acid ethyl ester content, a different sensory sensibility seems to be in the different IOC labs.Graphical abstractPanel test and chemical analyses of commercial olive oils: a comparative study.