PurposeWool, mainly composed of keratin, is a relatively high-grade clothing material. Although woollen textile has the advantages of high wearing comfort and excellent warmth retention property as we have known, its inherent disadvantage of easy pilling has easy puzzled people for a long time. Most of the existing technologies for pilling resistance are not eco-friendly or severely damaged the internal structure of wool.Design/methodology/approachIn this work, a controlled and effective surface treatment method was proposed to controllable micro-dissolution the scale layers of wool with minor damage to its internal structure, thereby improving the anti-pilling property of wool. Thiourea dioxide (TD) is used as a dissolving agent to swell and dissolve wool surface flakes. After TD treatment, the morphology changes of wool fibers were observed by scanning electron microscope (SEM) and methylene blue staining. Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR) and X-ray diffraction (XRD) were used to characterize the structural changes of TD wool. At the same time, the anti-pilling properties and wettability of wool fabrics were tested.FindingsThe results show that the wool scale layer is destroyed after TD treatment, which reduces the friction between fibers and improves the anti-pilling performance of wool fabrics. The methylene blue-stained images further demonstrate that low concentrations of TD can damage the superficial scale layer of wool without significant loss of strength.Originality/valueThis method is simple, eco-friendly and economical, and opens up a new direction for the surface treatment of wool fabrics.