Colorants In Cosmetics Research Articles

Recent Developments in Production and Biotechnological Applications of C-Phycocyanin

An extensive range of pigments including phycobiliproteins are present in algae. C-phycocyanin (C-PC), a phycobiliprotein, is one of the key pigments of Spirulina, a microalgae used in many countries as a dietary supplement. Algal pigments have massive commercial value as natural colorants in nutraceutical, cosmetics, and pharmaceutical industries, besides their health benefits. At present, increasing awareness of harmful effects of synthetic compounds and inclination of community towards the usage of natural products have led to the exploitation of microalgae as a source of natural pigments/colors. This review describes recent findings about the sources and production of C-PC, with emphasis on specific techniques for extraction and purification, along with potential industrial applications in diagnostics, foods, cosmetics, and pharmaceutical industries.

Exceptional molecular organization of canthaxanthin in lipid membranes.

Canthaxanthin (β,β-carotene 4,4' dione) used widely as a drug or as a food and cosmetic colorant may have some undesirable effects on human health, caused mainly by the formation of crystals in the macula lutea membranes of the retina of an eye. Experiments show the exceptional molecular organization of canthaxanthin and a strong effect of this pigment on the physical properties of lipid membranes. The most striking difference between canthaxanthin and other macular pigments is that the effects of canthaxanthin at a molecular level are observed at much lower concentration of this pigment with respect to lipid (as low as 0.05 mol%). An analysis of the molecular interactions of canthaxanthin showed molecular mechanisms such as: strong van der Waals interactions between the canthaxanthin molecule and the acyl chains of lipids, restrictions to the segmental molecular motion of lipid molecules, modifications of the surface of the lipid membranes, effect on the membrane thermotropic properties and finally interactions based on the formation of the hydrogen bonds. Such interactions can lead to a destabilization of the membrane and loss of membrane compactness. In the case of the retinal vasculature, it can lead to an increase in the permeability of the retinal capillary walls and the development of retinopathy.

化粧品用無機色素の海外規制

化粧品に使用される色素は，有機色素，無機色素，および天然色素に大別される。その中で有機色素については，安全性・安定性の観点を中心にこれまで多くの研究がなされ，日本や欧米諸国で使用できる色素のリストが公布されており，本講座でも取り上げられている。一方，無機色素（たとえば，酸化チタンや酸化鉄顔料など）については，その規制状況において日本と欧米でやや差があると考えられる。具体的には，欧米での無機色素の規制は，有機色素同様の規制が以前から敷かれており，化粧品事業をグローバルに展開するうえでその理解や対応は不可欠である。本報告では，化粧品用無機色素として代表的な顔料に関する日本・米国・欧州での規制内容を比較し，その傾向を紹介する。

Greater flamingos Phoenicopterus roseus use uropygial secretions as make-up

It was long thought that the colour of bird feathers does not change after plumage moult. However, there is increasing evidence that the colour of feathers may change due to abrasion, photochemical change and staining, either accidental or deliberate. The coloration of plumage due to deliberate staining, i.e. with cosmetic purposes, may help individuals to communicate their quality to conspecifics. The presence of carotenoids in preen oils has been previously only suggested, and here we confirm for the first time its presence in such oils. Moreover, the carotenoids in the uropygial secretions were the same specific pigments found in feathers. We show not only that the colour of feathers of greater flamingos Phoenicopterus roseus became more colourful due to the application of carotenoids from uropygial secretions over the plumage but also that the feathers became more colourful with the quantity of pigments applied over them, thus providing evidence of cosmetic coloration. Flamingos used uropygial secretions as cosmetic much more frequently during periods when they were displaying in groups than during the rest of the year, suggesting that the primary function of cosmetic coloration is mate choice. Individuals with more colourful plumage initiated nesting earlier. There was a correlation between plumage coloration before and after removal of uropygial secretions from feathers’ surfaces, suggesting that the use of these pigmented secretions may function as a signal amplifier by increasing the perceptibility of plumage colour, and hence of individual quality. As the cosmetic coloration strengthens signal intensity by reinforcing base-plumage colour, its use may help to the understanding of selection for signal efficacy by making interindividual differences more apparent.

ASM 기반의 얼굴 특징 영역 추출 및 변형된 알파 블렌딩을 이용한 가상 메이크업 프로그램

본 논문은 사용자 사진에서 ASM(Active Shape Model)을 이용하여 얼굴의 각 특징 점을 추출하고, 추출 된 특징점을 이용하여 화장할 부분의 영역을 생성 한다. 기존의 가상 메이크업 프로그램에서는 사용자가 수동적으로 몇 개의 특징 점을 정확히 선택해야 하는데서 불편함을 초래했다. 본 논문에서 제안하는 가상 메이크업 프로그램에서는 ASM을 이용하여 사용자의 입력을 필요로 하지 않는다. 자연스러운 화장 효과를 표현하기 위해서 기본적인 알파 블렌딩을 각각 화장품의 특징에 맞게 변형하여 사용자 피부색과 화장품의 색을 혼합한다. 얼굴 윤곽, 눈, 눈썹, 입술, 볼의 영역을 생성하고, Foundation, Blush, Lip Stick, Lip Liner, Eye Pencil, Eye Liner, Eye Shadow 종류의 화장을 할 수 있게 구현하였다. In this paper, facial feature areas in user picture are created by facial feature points extracted by ASM(Active Shape Model). In a existing virtual make-up application, users manually select a few features that are exactly. Users are uncomfortable with this method. We propose a virtual makeup application using ASM that does not require user input. In order to express a natural makeup, the modified alpha blendings for each cosmetic are used to blend skin color with cosmetic color. The Virtual makeup application was implemented to apply Foundation, Blush, Lip Stick, Lip Liner, Eye Pencil, Eye Liner and Eye Shadow.

Michromatic scope for enhancement of color difference

AbstractA michromatic (microscope plus chromatic) scope is a device that enhances the color discrimination between two spectral color datasets. Three spectral filters are required, instead of the conventional red, green, and blue filters, for the implementation of a michromatic camera. In this study, we describe two approaches to the design of these filters: in the first case, the design is based on the direct optimization of the filter characteristics (transmittance), whereas in the second case, the design is based on the nonnegative tensor factorization (NTF) of the spectral datasets. A michromatic camera can be implemented using these filters along with compatible postprocessing in‐camera firmware. Here, we performed experiments with two color datasets: one comprising skin and vein colors, and one comprising skin and cosmetics colors. These were further divided into a training set and a test set. The filters were defined using the training set, and the operation of the filters was tested and magnified using the test set. Our experiments demonstrated that the proposed approaches are suitable for color discrimination. For the first color dataset, the enhancement produced using the optimized filters was up to 252% of the original value, and the average color difference ΔE was increased from 2.82 to 9.93. NTF and preprocessing further enhanced the ΔE up to 21.84. For the second color dataset, NTF and postprocessing enhanced the ΔE from 4.33 to 29.19. The proposed discrimination enhancement could be physically implemented in a designated digital charge‐coupled device camera with proper filter installation and compatible postprocessing. © 2010 Wiley Periodicals, Inc. Col Res Appl, 2010

Cosmetic enhancement of signal coloration: experimental evidence in the house finch

Plumage coloration plays an important role in visual communication by signaling aspects of individual quality. It has been proposed that the need for preserving plumage condition and hence signaling content may have promoted a novel signaling mechanism: cosmetic coloration. Here, we investigated whether preen waxes may act as cosmetics by affecting feathers' ornamental coloration in male house finches (Carpodacus mexicanus). We (1) blocked the access to uropygial gland of a group of males and compared their coloration with a control group and (2) applied preen wax extracted from live individuals to museum skins and measured color before and after wax application. We found that red feathers of control males were more colorful than those of experimental males and that applying waxes to museum skins' red feathers increased their color saturation. Our results provide evidence that preen waxes act as cosmetics by enhancing plumage ornamentation, thus revealing the existence of novel mechanisms operating in signaling coloration. Although preen waxes per se would not constitute a signal, selection for signal efficacy might favor individuals that are able to increase signal intensity beyond the optimum necessary for plumage maintenance. Our results support the hypothesis that preen waxes reinforce the honesty of signals, which may be particularly useful in a social context where interactions between individuals are mediated by the intensity of the signals.

J. Cosmet. Sci., 59, 431–440 (September/October 2008) Red pigment from Lithospermum erythrorhizon by supercritical CO2 extraction

SynopsisIn this study, a stable red pigment was prepared from Lithospermum erythrorhizon via supercritical carbon dioxide extraction. The optimal extraction conditions were 400 bar and 60°C. The patch tests indicated that up to 10% of the red pigment was acceptable from a skin irritation standpoint. According to the results of the CIE LAB chromaticity test, the color difference was acceptable when compared to commercial synthetic red pigments. The light‐illuminated color stability test indicated that the pigment was more stable than the red pigment extracted with ethanol. The higher stability was also demonstrated in the DPPH anti‐oxidant activity test. The supercritical red pigment harbored elevated amounts of shikonin and derivatives, and appears to be usable as a stable red pigment for cosmetic color products.

MOLD-ASSOCIATED BIOCHEMICAL CHANGES AND AFLATOXIN B1PRODUCTION IN COLD-STORED CHILLIES (CAPSICUM ANNUUML.)

Dried red chilli samples kept in cold stores for varying periods (6–30 months) were collected at monthly intervals for 1 year and observed for mycoflora. Surface-sterilized and unsterilized chilli pods were placed on Czapek-Dox agar medium to study the incidence of fungi. In all the samples, incidence of Aspergillus flavus and Aspergillus niger was very high followed by Mucor spp., Fusarium spp. and Alternaria alternata. Attempts to estimate the biochemical constituents, such as total protein, carbohydrates, reducing sugars, ascorbic acid and total phenols in cold-stored red chillies, revealed a gradual decrease in the levels of these components with extending storage period. Screening of chilli pods for the natural occurrence of mycotoxins indicated the presence of aflatoxin B1 in cold-stored chillies. PRACTICAL APPLICATIONS Chillies are an important condiment in the Indian household. Chillies have great international market value and are used as natural colorant instead of artificial colorants in cosmetics, pharmaceutical applications and processed foods. The use of commercial cold stores for chilli storage has now become a general practice among farmers in order to fetch premium price due to excellent retention of color. Chillies could be contaminated with toxigenic molds under processing factors like improper drying of pods before storage. Temperature, relative humidity and storage period in cold storage are important factors that influence frequency of molds and their toxin production. Quality of chilli fruits are also greatly affected by high frequency of molds. Incidence of Aspergillus flavus and their aflatoxin B1 is increased when storage period extends. This study provides very important information that is useful for the chilli farmers and exporters in maintaining proper processing and storage conditions. Chilli traders can utilize the methods presented in this article to assess the quality of fruits such as toxin content and biochemical constituents.

Afterword: Albert and Michael's recombinant DNA

Ready for a free, fun, no-hassle virtual makeover? The Makeover-o-Matic virtual makeover game lets you try on virtual hairstyles, makeup and accessories with your own photo or a model photo. Find your best online virtual makeover look and style using the latest beauty products, without the risk! Select from hundreds of hairstyles, cosmetic colors and accessories in the privacy of your own home. Blend, highlight, mix and match to create your new online look. What are you waiting for? Go ahead and get beautiful! (http://beauty.ivillage.com/0,9jlxfdd5,00.html) Neo-liberalism is not Adam Smith; neo-liberalism is not market society, neo-liberalism is not the Gulag on the insidious scale of capitalism … but … taking the formal principles of a market economy and … projecting them on to a general act of government. (Foucault 2008, 131)

Interactions between canthaxanthin and lipid membranes — possible mechanisms of canthaxanthin toxicity

Canthaxanthin (β, β-carotene 4, 4′ dione) is used widely as a drug or as a food and cosmetic colorant, but it may have some undesirable effects on human health, mainly caused by the formation of crystals in the macula lutea membranes of the retina. This condition is called canthaxanthin retinopathy. It has been shown that this type of dysfunction of the eye is strongly connected with damage to the blood vessels around the place of crystal deposition. This paper is a review of the experimental data supporting the hypothesis that the interactions of canthaxanthin with the lipid membranes and the aggregation of this pigment may be the factors enhancing canthaxanthin toxicity towards the macula vascular system. All the results of the experiments that have been done on model systems such as monolayers of pure canthaxanthin and mixtures of canthaxanthin and lipids, oriented bilayers or liposomes indicate a very strong effect of canthaxanthin on the physical properties of lipid membranes, which may explain its toxic action, which leads to the further development of canthaxanthin retinopathy.

PHYCOCYANIN CONTENT OF SPIRULINA PLATENSIS DRIED IN SPOUTED BED AND THIN LAYER

ABSTRACT The aim of this work was to study the drying of Spirulina platensis, evaluating the final product characteristics about its phycocyanin content and its protein solubility in water. Two drying techniques were used: the spouted bed and the thin layer. For drying in a spouted bed, the cone‐cylindrical geometry was chosen, namely type conventional spouted bed (CSB) and jet‐spouted bed, with a paste concentration of 5%. The thin‐layer drying was performed at temperatures of 50 and 60C, with a load of material of 4 kg/m2 in the tray. The spouted bed dryer type CSB demonstrated good functionality, not presenting a collapse during the experiments. The solubility in aqueous mean was similar in all the drying techniques used, being the values found around 37%. The largest phycocyanin values were found in the thin‐layer temperature of 50C and in the spouted bed type CSB; however, the thin layer was excluded so as not to reach the commercial moisture content.PRACTICAL APPLICATIONSPhycocyanin is the major phycobiliprotein in Spirulina. Phycocyanin has significant antioxidant, anti‐inflammatory, hepatoprotective and radical scavenging properties. It is used as colorant in food and cosmetics. It was also shown to have therapeutic value (immunomodulating activity and anticancer activity). The drying operation is commonly used to prolong the shelf life of microbial biomasses. Preservation of cyanobacteria is a difficult process, since the cells are small and, moreover, the cultures are usually diluted. Drying of liquids and pastes in spouted beds with inert bodies has been presented as an alternative to spray drying in an attempt to obtain high‐quality powdered products at a low cost.

Experimental support for the makeup hypothesis in nestling tawny owls (Strix aluco)

Body condition can affect coloration of traits used in sexual selection and parent-offspring communication by inducing rapid internal changes in pigment concentration or aggregation, thickness of collagen arrays, or blood flux. The recent hypothesis proposes an alternative honesty-reinforcing mechanism, with behaviorally mediated deposition of substances on body surfaces (cosmetics) generating covariation between body condition and coloration. In birds, the uropygial gland wax is actively spread on feathers using the bill and changes in its deposition rate may cause rapid changes in bill and plumage coloration. Using tawny owl nestlings, we tested 3 predictions of the makeup hypothesis, namely that 1) quantity of preen wax deposited accounts for variation in bill coloration, 2) an immune stimulation (induced by injection of a lipopolysaccharide [LPS]) impairs uropygial gland wax production, and 3) different intensities of immune stimulations (strong vs. weak stimulations induced by injections of either LPS or phytohemagglutinin [PHA], respectively) and high versus low food availabilities result in different bill colorations. We found that 1) preen wax reduced bill brightness, 2) a challenge with LPS impaired uropygial gland development, and 3) nestlings challenged with LPS had a brighter bill than PHA-injected nestlings, whereas diet manipulation had no significant effect. Altogether, these results suggest that a strong immune challenge may decrease preen wax deposition rate on the bill of nestling birds, at least by impairing gland wax production, which causes a change in bill coloration. Our study therefore highlights that cosmetic colors might signal short-term variation in immunological status.

An update on microbial carotenoid production: application of recent metabolic engineering tools

Carotenoids are ubiquitous pigments synthesized by plants, fungi, algae, and bacteria. Industrially, carotenoids are used in pharmaceuticals, neutraceuticals, and animal feed additives, as well as colorants in cosmetics and foods. Scientific interest in dietary carotenoids has increased in recent years because of their beneficial effects on human health, such as lowering the risk of cancer and enhancement of immune system function, which are attributed to their antioxidant potential. The availability of carotenoid genes from carotenogenic microbes has made possible the synthesis of carotenoids in non-carotenogenic microbes. The increasing interest in microbial sources of carotenoid is related to consumer preferences for natural additives and the potential cost effectiveness of creating carotenoids via microbial biotechnology. In this review, we will describe the recent progress made in metabolic engineering of non-carotenogenic microorganisms with particular focus on the potential of Escherichia coli for improved carotenoid productivity.

Potentials and applications of algal pigments in biology and industry

A wide variety of pigments, like chlorophyll, carotenoids and phycobiliproteins, which exhibit colours ranging from green, yellow, brown to red are present in algae. Increasing awareness of harmful effects of synthetic dyes and inclination of society towards the usage of natural products, such as plant / microbial based colours in food and cosmetics, has led to the exploitation of microalgae as a source of natural colours. Algal pigments have great commercial value as natural colorants in nutraceutical, cosmetics and pharmaceutical industry, besides their health benefits. Spirulina, Dunaliella capsules are now commonly prescribed health foods for improving vitality and longevity of human beings. This review describes the distribution, structure of these pigments in algae, with emphasis on specific techniques for extraction and purification, along with different methods of biomass production and commercially feasible techniques documented in literature. An overview of the industrial applications of these natural colouring agents in diagnostics, food and cosmetics industry is also provided.

Cosmetic Coloration in Birds: Occurrence, Function, and Evolution

Colorful plumages are conspicuous social signals in birds, and the expression of these colors often reflects the quality of their bearers. Since mature feathers are dead structures, plumage color is often considered a static signal that does not change after molt. Feathers, however, can and do deteriorate between molts, and birds need to invest heavily in plumage maintenance. Here we argue that this need for preserving plumage condition and hence signaling content might have given rise to a novel type of sexual signal: cosmetic coloration. Cosmetic coloration occurs when the substances used for plumage maintenance change the color of the feathers, thereby becoming a signal themselves. Our review of cosmetic coloration in birds demonstrates that it is more widespread than currently realized, occurring in at least 13 bird families. Cosmetics have varied origins: they can be produced by the bird itself (uropygial and skin secretions, feather powder) or obtained from the environment (soil, iron oxide). Intraspecific patterns of cosmetic use (sex, age, and seasonal dimorphism) suggest that in many cases it may act as a sexual signal. However, more information is required on function, mechanisms, and costs to understand the evolution of cosmetic coloration and to confirm its signaling role.

Cosmetic Coloration in Birds: Occurrence, Function, and Evolution

Colorful plumages are conspicuous social signals in birds, and the expression of these colors often reflects the quality of their bearers. Since mature feathers are dead structures, plumage color is often considered a static signal that does not change after molt. Feathers, however, can and do deteriorate between molts, and birds need to invest heavily in plumage maintenance. Here we argue that this need for preserving plumage condition and hence signaling content might have given rise to a novel type of sexual signal: cosmetic coloration. Cosmetic coloration occurs when the substances used for plumage maintenance change the color of the feathers, thereby becoming a signal themselves. Our review of cosmetic coloration in birds demonstrates that it is more widespread than currently realized, occurring in at least 13 bird families. Cosmetics have varied origins: they can be produced by the bird itself (uropygial and skin secretions, feather powder) or obtained from the environment (soil, iron oxide). Intraspecific patterns of cosmetic use (sex, age, and seasonal dimorphism) suggest that in many cases it may act as a sexual signal. However, more information is required on function, mechanisms, and costs to understand the evolution of cosmetic coloration and to confirm its signaling role.

Computational Models for Structure-Hydrophobicity Relationships of 4-Carboxyl-2,6-Dinitrophenyl Azo Hydroxynaphthalenes

Some phenyl azo hydroxynaphthalene dyes (e.g., sunset yellow) are certified as approved colorants for food, cosmetics, and drug formulations. The hydrophobicity of 4 newly synthesized azo dyes of the phenyl azo hydroxynaphthalene class was investigated, as a training set, with the goal of developing models for quantitative structure-property relationships (QSPR). Retention behavior of the molecules reversed-phase thin-layer chromatography (RPTLC) was investigated using liquid paraffin-coated silica gel as the stationary phase. Mobile phases consisted of aqueous mixtures of methanol, acetone, and dimethylformamide (DMF). Basic hydrophobicity parameter (Rmw), specific hydrophobic surface area (S), and isocratic chromatographic hydrophobicity index (phio) were computed from the chromatographic data. The hydrophobicity index (Rm) decreased linearly with increasing concentration of organic modifiers. Extrapolated Rmw values obtained by using DMF and acetone differ significantly from the value obtained by using methanol as organic modifier [P < 0.05, 1-way analysis of variance (ANOVA), Tukey's multiple comparison test]. Structure-property relationships showed that hydrophobicity was dependent on type and position of naphthalene ring substituents. Rm decreased with the presence of a highly polar substituent (e.g., COOH). Owing to intramolecular interaction, Rm increased when the common hydroxyl group (OH) is positioned ortho to the azo group, relative to para positioning, in 2 positional isomers. Pattern recognition data analysis underscores the utility of phio as a more accurate hydrophobicity descriptor than Rmw. Phio is negatively correlated with theoretically calculated density, surface tension, and refractive index for the molecules. These models could be used to predict toxicity (absorption, distribution, metabolism, excretion, toxicity; ADMET) properties of the azo dyes and may also play useful roles in computer-assisted molecular discovery of nontoxic azo dyes.

Process development for the removal and recovery of hazardous dye erythrosine from wastewater by waste materials—Bottom Ash and De-Oiled Soya as adsorbents

Erythrosine is a water-soluble xanthene class of dye. It is widely used as colorant in foods, textiles, drugs and cosmetics. It is highly toxic, causes various types of allergies, thyroid activities, carcinogenicity, DNA damage behaviour, neurotoxicity and xenoestrogen nature in the humans and animals. The photochemical and biochemical degradation of the erythrosine is not recommended due to formation of toxic by-products. The present paper is an attempt to remove erythrosine from wastewater using adsorption over Bottom Ash—a power plant waste and De-Oiled Soya—an agricultural waste. Under the batch studies, effect of concentration of dye, temperature, pH of the solution, dosage of adsorbents, sieve size of adsorbents, etc., have been studied for the uptake of the dye over both adsorbents. The adsorption process verifies Langmuir and Freundlich adsorption isotherms in both the cases and based on the data different thermodynamic parameters have been evaluated. Batch studies also include kinetic measurements, rate constant study, mass transfer behaviour and establishment of mechanistic pathway for both the cases. For the bulk removal of the dye column operations have been carried out and breakthrough capacities of the Bottom Ash and De-Oiled Soya columns have been calculated. Attempts have also been made for the recovery of the adsorbed dye from exhausted columns by eluting dilute NaOH and more than 90% of the dye was recovered.

Solid-State NMR Studies Of Ultramarine Pigments Discoloration

AbstractUltramarines are a family of pigments widely used as colorants in artists' paints, coatings, plastics, cosmetics, and various industrial materials. They are aluminosilicates characterized by a sodalite cage framework which enclarthrates paramagnetic (S3-., S2-.) and diamagnetic (S4or S3Cl) chromophores responsible for the color of these pigments. Solid-state27Al MAS NMR studies showed that the fading mechanisms in ultramarine pigments, both in acidic and alkaline environments, is initiated via de-alumination leading to framework destruction which in turn triggers the release of the chromophores. This results in color loss and in the emergence of extra-framework aluminum.29Si MAS studies provide new insight into these processes and suggest that acidic attack leads to the formation of Q1-Q3silicates and possibly to the emergence of Si(3Al), Si(2Al), Si(1Al) and Si(0Al) fragments indicative of the formation of secondary pores through which the guest chomophores can leave the cage. These findings are important for the design of proper conservation treatments and preservation procedures for artwork containing ultramarine pigments.