Collagenase Inhibitor Research Articles

Phytochemical Characterization and Assessment of the Wound Healing Properties of Three Eurasian Propolis

Objectives: The objective of this study is to evaluate the wound healing potential of Eurasian propolis by analyzing the phytochemical profile and the biological effects of three representative propolis samples. Methods: Specific colorimetric assays were used to estimate the total phenolic and flavonoid contents and the triterpenoids content. Some of the main components of Eurasian propolis (pinocembrin, pinobanksin, CAPE, chrysin and galangin) were analyzed using HPLC-DAD. Scavenging activity and total antioxidant capacity were assessed through DPPH and ORAC assays, respectively. Human keratinocyte, fibroblast, and monocytic cell lines were used for the biological in vitro analyses. The direct wound healing properties were tested through scratching assays and ELISA kits for the assessment of the production of growth factors (FGF-7, Latency Associated Peptide-LAP), while the indirect effects were evaluated through the estimation of the levels of MMP9, IL-1β, IL-8, and TNF-α using ELISA kits together with a cell-free test on the inhibition capacity on collagenases. Network Pharmacology analysis was employed to further explore possible mechanisms of the action of propolis on the healing process. Results: The analyses confirmed the high phenolic content of Eurasian propolis (142.50–211.30 mg GAE/g), dominated by flavonoids (95.50–196.80 mg Galangin Equivalents/g), and terpenes (431.50–650.00 mg β-sitosterol Equivalents/g), while also verifying the significant antioxidant (4.9–8.9 mM/g Trolox Equivalents) and antiradical (DPPH IC50 26.1–54.4 μg/mL) activities. The samples showed indirect wound healing properties by mitigating inflammation and remodeling (reduced IL-1β and MMP9) and potentially modulating the immune response (upregulated IL-8). In vitro studies confirmed these effects, demonstrating decreased MMP9 production and collagenase inhibition when cells were co-treated with propolis and a stressor. Propolis also suppressed IL-1β release in fibroblasts, although its impact on TNF-α was inconclusive. Notably, co-treatment upregulated IL-8 in monocytes, suggesting a potential immunomodulatory role. Conclusions: Eurasian propolis may not directly stimulate cell proliferation during wound healing. Its anti-inflammatory and immunomodulatory properties could indicate an indirect contribution in helping the process.

Anti-Aging Activities and LC-MS Analysis of Chrysophyllum cainito Leaves Extract

Star apple (Chrysophyllum cainito L.), or Apple-nam in Thai, is a medium-sized tree in the Sapotaceae family. It is native to Middle America and distributed in Thailand and Southeast Asia. It has antioxidation, anti-inflammatory and anti-diabetic properties. The active compounds in star apples are flavonoids. This research aimed to study the biological activities and chemical constituents of crude extract and active fractions from the leaves of star apples. The leaf powder was defatted with dichloromethane and further extracted with ethanol using ultrasound-assisted extraction. The ethanol extract was separated by quick column chromatography given 7 fractions (CCE1-CCE7). The total phenolic content and antioxidant activity of the extract and chromatographic fractions were determined. The active fractions were further studied for tyrosinase inhibition, collagenase inhibition and cell proliferation properties. The result showed that the highest total phenolic content was observed in ethanol extract. The high polar fraction, CCE6, displayed the highest antioxidation activity with radical scavenging of 0.34 ± 0.01 mg AAE/mL in the DPPH assay and a FRAP value of 1.36 ± 0.01 mg AAE/mL in the FRAP assay. The CCE6 also exhibited the highest anti-tyrosinase and anti-collagenase activities with a percentage of 67.14 ± 1.34 and 70.32 ± 2.88, respectively and showed the best activity in cell proliferation with a percentage of 24.68 ± 2.94. The analysis of the components using the negative ionization LC-MS technique revealed that gallic acid and quercetin-3-galactoside are the major constituents in the ethanol extract. While the fraction CCE6 showed glucosyl (2E,6E,10x)-10,11-dihydroxy-2,6-farnesadienoate and p-mentha-1,3,5,8-tetraene as the predominant compounds. HIGHLIGHTS The ethanol extract was prepared using ultrasound-assisted extraction. The first report of tyrosinase and collagenase inhibition, as well as cell proliferation properties, of the cainito leaves extract and chromatographic fractions. The major components of the ethanol extract of cainito leaves in Thailand and its active fraction by LC-MS technique were reported for the first time. GRAPHICAL ABSTRACT

Functional Properties and Components of Koenigia alpina Extract.

Koenigia alpina (All.) T.M.Schust. & Reveal (alpine knotweed) is a perennial herb belonging to the Polygonaceae family. Several studies have examined Polygonaceae species' potential applications as cosmeceutical materials; however, the potential of K. alpina as a cosmeceutical has not yet been studied. Hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) and lipopolysaccharide were used to induce an inflammatory response in RAW 264.7 cells. 2,2-Diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) radicals and H2O2 were used to evaluate the free-radical scavenging activity of K. alpina extract and its protective effect against reactive oxygen species (ROS)-induced cell damage. The whitening, antiaging, and cell proliferation/migration effects of the extracts were evaluated via tyrosinase inhibition, collagenase/elastase inhibition, and wound healing assays, respectively. The anti-inflammatory effect was confirmed by evaluating nitric oxide (NO) production in RAW 264.7 cells. High-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC), UV, and MS/MS were used to determine the main components of the extract and fractions. The ethyl acetate (EA) fraction and its aglycone fraction showed very high free-radical scavenging activities (47.5 and 47.1µg/mL, respectively). The extract/fractions also showed significant tyrosinase inhibition (IC50 = 0.38mg/mL in EA fraction), collagenase inhibition (IC50 = 0.21mg/mL in EA fraction), and elastase inhibition (IC50 = 0.57mg/mL in aglycone fraction). NO production in lipopolysaccharide-induced RAW 264.7 cells was inhibited by the extract/fractions. The extract also promoted the closure of scratch wounds in HaCaT cells. The K. alpina extract/fractions contained cardamonin, quercetin, and quercitrin. K. alpina extracts/fractions showed antioxidant, antiaging, whitening, and anti-inflammatory activities, suggesting they may have potential as antiaging cosmeceuticals.

Comparing Tretinoin to Other Topical Therapies in the Treatment of Skin Photoaging: A Systematic Review.

Many morphological and histological changes take place in aging skin. Topical tretinoin is the gold standard anti-aging agent used to reduce signs of aging through stimulation of epidermal growth and differentiation and inhibition of collagenase. The aim of this systematic review is to summarize studies evaluating the efficacy of tretinoin compared with other topical medications and cosmeceuticals in reducing the appearance of skin aging. A systematic review was conducted following the Preferred Reporting Items for Systematic Review and Meta-analysis (PRISMA) guidelines. The literature search was conducted using the PubMed and Embase databases from conception to December 2023. Studies were included if they compared anti-aging outcomes of topical medications with those of topical tretinoin (also called all-trans retinoic acid and retinoic acid). Studies were excluded if they compared non-topical anti-aging treatments with tretinoin or were conducted on animal models. The literature search resulted in 25 studies that met all inclusion and exclusion criteria. The most common study comparators to tretinoin included other forms of vitamin A. Outcomes were reported on the basis of visual reduction of aging signs, histological assessment of the epidermis and dermis, and protein expression. Although comparators to tretinoin had variable efficacy (greater in 7 studies, equivalent in 13 studies, and less in 3 studies), most studies found the comparator to be less irritating and better tolerated by patients than tretinoin. Tretinoin is currently the gold standard therapy for the treatment of photoaging, but its poor tolerability often limits its use. Unfortunately, given that most studies comparing topical therapies with tretinoin are of poor quality and/or demonstrate bias, there is a lack of substantial evidence to support an alternative first-line therapy. However, given there are some data to support the efficacy of retinoid precursors, namely retinaldehyde, pro-retinal nanoparticles, and conjugated alpha-hydroxy acid and retinoid (AHA-ret), these agents can be considered a second-line option for anti-aging treatment in patients who cannot tolerate tretinoin.

In vitro and in silico therapeutic properties of Artepillin C and Aromadendrin as collagenase and elastase inhibitors and investigation of anti-Ovarian cancer effects and antioxidant potential

In this investigation, the enzymes collagenase and elastase were inhibited by artepillin.C and aromadendrin molecules with excellent to good IC50 values of 16.65, and 0.79 μM for artepillin.C and 7.31, 19.38, and 10.56 μM for aromadendrin. Using the molecular modeling study, the chemical activity of these compounds against the enzymes, collagenase, and elastase were evaluated. The anti-cancer properties of the compounds were evaluated using the following cell lines: NIH: OVCAR-3, ES-2, UACC-1598, Hs 832(C).T [Hs832.Tc], TOV-21G, UWB1.289. The DPPH (1,1-diphenyl-2-pricrylhydrazyl) free radical scavenging assay was used to measure antioxidant activity, and the spectrophotometric method was used in this work. The chemical activities of artepillin.C and aromadendrin against collagenase and elastase were investigated utilizing the molecular docking study. The anti-cancer activities of the compounds were evaluated against NIH: OVCAR-3, ES-2, UACC-1598, Hs 832(C).T [Hs832.Tc], TOV-21G, UWB1.289 cell lines. Also, some cell lines had best results for aromadendrin like NIH: OVCAR-3, ES-2, UACC-1598, Hs 832(C).T [Hs832.Tc], TOV-21G, UWB1.289 (10.54 ± 0.94, 22.11 ± 2.52, 31.85 ± 4.73, 8.14 ± 1.52, 17.94 ± 1.88, and 24.31 ± 2.64 μM). The chemical activities of artepillin.C and aromadendrin against some of the expressed surface receptor proteins (folate receptor, CD44, EGFR, Formyl Peptide Receptor–Like 1, M2 muscarinic receptor, and estrogen receptors) in the mentioned cell lines were assessed using the molecular docking calculations. The outcomes provided information on potential interactions and their atomic-level properties. According to the docking scores, the compounds show a high affinity for binding to proteins and enzymes. Furthermore, these substances made good contact with the receptors and enzymes. As a result, these substances may have the ability to suppress cancer cells and enzymes.

Rubus urticifolius Compounds with Antioxidant Activity, and Inhibition Potential against Tyrosinase, Melanin, Hyaluronidase, Elastase, and Collagenase.

In our study, using chromatographic techniques, we isolated three bioactive compounds, which were structurally elucidated as (E)-2-(3-(3,4-dimethoxyphenyl)acrylamido)-N-methylbenzamide (1), 4-Hydroxyquinoline-2-carboxylic acid (2), and (E)-2-Cyano-3-(4-hydroxyphenyl)acrylic acid (3), using spectroscopic methods. The anti-melanogenic, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and anti-aging properties were evaluated in vitro by measuring the activity of pharmacological targets including tyrosinase, melanin, NF-κB, hyaluronidase, elastase, collagenase, and Nrf2. Our results show that compound 1 is the most active with IC50 values of 14.19 μM (tyrosinase inhibition), 22.24 μM (melanin inhibition), 9.82-12.72 μM (NF-κB inhibition), 79.71 μM (hyaluronidase inhibition), 80.13 μM (elastase inhibition), 76.59 μM (collagenase inhibition), and 116-385 nM (Nrf2 activation) in the THP-1, HEK001, WS1, and HMCB cells. These findings underscore the promising profiles of the aqueous extract of R. urticifolius at safe cytotoxic concentrations. Additionally, we report, for the first time, the isolation and characterisation of these nitrogenous compounds in the R. urticifolius species. Finally, compound 1, isolated from R. urticifolius, is a promising candidate for the development of more effective and safer compounds for diseases related to skin pigmentation, protection against inflammation, and oxidative stress.

Plectranthus scutellarioides (L.) R.Br. Leaf Extract as Sunscreen, Skin Lightening, and Antiaging

Plectranthus scutellaroides is a plant with attractive colored leaves. It contains secondary metabolite compounds such as flavonoids and phenolics, which provide skin protection against ultraviolet rays from the sun. The research aims to investigate the activity of P. scutellarioides leaf extract from various variants and different solvents on sunscreen, skin lightening, and anti aging activities. The best extract is formulated in gel dosage form. Each P. scutellaroides leaf was extracted using ethanol, ethyl acetate, and hexane as solvents. The obtained extract was assessed for Sun Protecting Factor (SPF), UVA Protection grade (PA), antioxidant activity, and inhibition of tyrosinase, collagenase, elastase, and hyaluronidase. Determination was conducted in vitro using spectrophotometric methods. The highest sunscreen activity was observed in the ethanol extract Va (Va-ET), which exhibited SPF and PA values of 25.618±0.265, and 0.681±0.007 (star 3), respectively at a concentration of 100 ug/mL. The most significant skin-lightening activity was observed in the ethanol extract Vc (Vc-ET), with an IC50 value inhibiting tyrosinase of 39.059 ug/mL. Regarding the anti-aging activity of the extracts, as determined by their antioxidant activity and inhibition of collagenase, elastase, and hyaluronidase, the most promising extracts were obtained from ethanol extract Va (Va-ET) and ethyl acetate extract Va (Va-EA), with IC50 values of 79.734, 76.838, 143.384, and 122.467 ug/ mL, respectively. The Va-ET was formulated into a gel dosage form, and there was a significant effect of the gelling agent on the SPF value of the extract after formulation (p < 0.05). All extracts exhibit activity as sunscreen, skin lightening, and anti-aging, with the Va-ET showing the highest efficacy. Gelling agents significantly influence the SPF value of extracts after formulation into the gel dosage form. Among them, F3, formulated from the Va-ET of P. scutellaroides using Carbopol-940 as a gelling agent, exhibits the highest efficacy.

Skin anti-aging potential of Launaea procumbens extract: Antioxidant and enzyme inhibition activities supported by ADMET and molecular docking studies

Aging is a natural process that occurs in all living organisms. Particularly, the skin embodies aging since it serves as a barrier between the body and its surroundings. Previously, we reported the wound healing effect of Launaea procumbens and identified compounds therein. The study aims to explore the skin anti-aging properties of the plant extract. To that effect, the antioxidant potential of L. procumbens methanolic extract (LPM) was assessed using two complementary DPPH and FRAP assays. The enzyme inhibitory effect of the extract on collagenase, elastase, hyaluronidase, and tyrosinase was evaluated to assess the direct skin anti-aging effects. Similarly, the anti-inflammatory activity was evaluated to explore the indirect anti-aging effects via the assessment of extract inhibitory effects on cyclooxygenase-2 (COX-2) and 5-lipoxygenase (5-LOX). In addition, ADMET and molecular docking studies were performed to explore the interaction mechanisms of identified compounds in LPM with target enzymes. LPM demonstrated significant antioxidant activity in DPPH (IC50 = 29.08 µg/mL) and FRAP (1214.67 µM FeSO4/g extract) assays. Plant extract showed significant inhibition of collagenase, elastase, hyaluronidase, and tyrosinase (IC50 = 52.68, 43.76, 31.031, and 37.13 µg/mL, respectively). The extract demonstrated significant COX-2 and 5-LOX inhibition capacity with IC50 values of 8.635 and 10.851 µg/mL, respectively. The molecular docking study revealed the high potential of the identified compounds to bind to the active sites of enzymes crucially involved in the skin aging process. ADMET analysis of the compounds revealed their good absorption, distribution, and metabolism profiles, and they were found to be safe as well. Study findings suggest L. procumbens as a promising source for the development of natural skin anti-aging and antioxidant compounds. This, in turn, may facilitate its incorporation into cosmetic formulations after further investigation.

Valorization of Wine Lees: Assessment of Antioxidant, Antimicrobial and Enzyme Inhibitory Activity of Wine Lees Extract and Incorporation in Chitosan Films

Wine lees, as one of the main by-products of winery wastes, is considered a rich source of bioactive compounds such as polyphenols. Recovery of such bioactive compounds would amplify the valorization of winery by-products, as well as promote their use in cosmetics and health applications. Towards this aim, the objective of this work is the recovery of phenolic compounds from wine lees by ultrasound-assisted extraction. The effect of extraction time, and ethanol content on the extraction yield of total phenolics was investigated, while the phenolic profile of the extract was monitored by GC-MS. Under the optimized conditions, the total phenolic content was calculated at 302.6 mg gallic acid equivalents g− 1 dry extract; the dry extract was investigated for its biological activities, exhibiting excellent antioxidant and antimicrobial activity. Moreover, the extract was found to be a potent inhibitor of tyrosinase, elastase, collagenase, α-glucosidase, and α-amylase with IC50 values of 53.3, 83.5, 82.7, 19.0, and 31.3 µg mL− 1, respectively. Finally, the wine lees dry extract was incorporated into chitosan films, reinforcing the properties of the films, and providing them with excellent antioxidant activity. The results support that wine lees extract exhibits high antioxidant activity and can be used as a highly efficient inhibitor of enzymes with pharmaceutical and health interest. Moreover, the chitosan film enriched with wine lees extract is a promising material with high antioxidant potential and can lead to the development of novel food packaging films in the food industry.Graphical

Enhancement of skin rejuvenation and hair growth through novel near-infrared light emitting diode (nNIR) lighting: in vitro and in vivo study

The study aimed to explore the impact of a novel near-infrared LED (nNIR) with an extended spectrum on skin enhancement and hair growth. Various LED sources, including White and nNIRs, were compared across multiple parameters: cytotoxicity, adenosine triphosphate (ATP) synthesis, reactive oxygen species (ROS) reduction, skin thickness, collagen synthesis, collagenase expression, and hair follicle growth. Experiments were conducted on human skin cells and animal models. Cytotoxicity, ATP synthesis, and ROS reduction were evaluated in human skin cells exposed to nNIRs and Whites. LED irradiation effects were also studied on a UV-induced photoaging mouse model, analyzing skin thickness, collagen synthesis, and collagenase expression. Hair growth promotion was examined as well. Results revealed both White and nNIR were non-cytotoxic to human skin cells. nNIR enhanced ATP and collagen synthesis while reducing ROS levels, outperforming the commonly used 2chip LEDs. In the UV-induced photoaging mouse model, nNIR irradiation led to reduced skin thickness, increased collagen synthesis, and lowered collagenase expression. Additionally, nNIR irradiation stimulated hair growth, augmented skin thickness, and increased hair follicle count. In conclusion, the study highlighted positive effects of White and nNIR irradiation on skin and hair growth. However, nNIR exhibited superior outcomes compared to White. Its advancements in ATP content, collagen synthesis, collagenase inhibition, and hair growth promotion imply increased ATP synthesis activity. These findings underscore nNIR therapy’s potential as an innovative and effective approach for enhancing skin and promoting hair growth.

Elucidating anti-aging and antioxidant activity of Hydnocarpus anthelmintica on skin aging and cosmeceutical potentials: in silico and in vitro study.

Hydnocarpus anthelmintica (HA) has been traditionally used for treating leprosy and is known for its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities. The aim of this study was to investigate the active compounds and targets of HA extracts, involved in oxidative stress and skin aging. The active compounds and targets of HA extracts were identified using network pharmacology. The pathway study was conducted using the Kyoto Encyclopedia of Genes and Genomes (KEGG) database. HA semen was measured for its in-vitro antioxidant activity using 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) assay and anti-aging activities using collagenase, elastase, and tyrosinase assays. A total of 21 intersecting core targets were identified from 8 compounds, 51 action targets, and 1810 skin aging and oxidative stress-associated target genes. A compound-target network was constructed, and 3 compounds (luteolin, beta-carotene and genkwanin), and 4 hub genes (TP53, HSP90AA1, JUN, and MAPK1) were identified. The KEGG pathway study revealed that the compounds were correlated with PI3K-Akt, p53, HIF-1, and MAPK signaling. The results of in-vitro experiments showed the effect of HA extract on oxidative stress reduction and collagenase inhibition. We discovered two main active compounds, luteolin and β-carotene, that may be involved in p53 and MAPK signaling, and showed HA extract activity against oxidative stress and collagenase.

Enzymatic synthesis of a skin active ingredient - glochidone by 3-ketosteroid dehydrogenase from Sterolibacterium denitrificans

In this study, we applied AcmB2, sourced from Sterolibacterium denitrificans, to catalyze the oxidative dehydrogenation of 3-ketolupeol (lupenone), a derivative of lupeol, triterpene obtained from birch bark. This enzymatic Δ1-dehydrogenation catalyzed by AcmB2 yielded glochidone, a bioactive compound frequently obtained from medicinal plants like Salvia trichoclada and Maytenus boria. Glochidone is known for its broad biological activities, including antibacterial, antifungal, anti-inflammatory, anticancer, antidiabetic as well as acetylcholinesterase inhibition. Our research demonstrates >99% conversion efficiency with 100% regioselectivity of the reaction. The effective conversion to glochidone employed an electron acceptor e.g., potassium hexacyanoferrate III, in mild, environmentally friendly conditions: 8–16% 2-hydroxypropyl-β-cyclodextrin, and 2–3% 2-methoxyethanol. AcmB2 reaction optimum was determined at pH 8.0 and 30 °C. Enzyme's biochemical attributes such as electron acceptor type, concentration and steroid substrate specificity were investigated. Among 4-, 5- and 6-ring steroid derivatives androst-4-en-3,17-dione and testosterone propionate were determined as the best substrates of AcmB2. Δ1-Dehydrogenation of substrates such as lupenone, diosgenone and 3-ketopetromyzonol was confirmed. We have assessed the antioxidant and rejuvenating characteristics of glochidone as an active component in formulations, considering its precursors, lupeol, and lupenone as well. Glochidone exhibited limited antioxidant and chelating capabilities compared to lupeol and reference compounds. However, it demonstrated robust rejuvenating properties, with a sirtuin induction level of 61.5 ± 1.87%, notably surpassing that of the reference substance, E-resveratrol (45.15 ± 0.09%). Additionally, glochidone displayed 26.5±0.67 and 19.41±0.76% inhibition of elastase and collagenase, respectively. The safety of all studied triterpenes was confirmed on skin reconstructed human Epidermis model. These findings provide valuable insights into the potential applications of glochidone in formulations aimed at addressing skin health concerns. This research presents the first example of an enzyme in the 3-ketosteroid dehydrogenase (KstD) family catalyzing the Δ1-dehydrogenation of a pentacyclic triterpene. We also explored structural differences between AcmB, AcmB2, and related KstDs pointing to G52 and P532 as potentially responsible for the unique substrate specificity of AcmB2. Our findings not only highlight the enzyme's capabilities but also present novel enzymatic pathways for bioactive compound synthesis.

Optimization of Hydrolysis Conditions, Isolation, and Identification of Biologically Active Peptides Derived from Acheta domesticus for Antioxidant and Collagenase Inhibition.

The study aimed to optimize hydrolysis conditions and isolate and identify bioactive peptides with anti-skin aging effects from Acheta domesticus (house cricket). A. domesticus proteins underwent hydrolysis using Alcalase® and optimized conditions using response surface methodology through a face-centered central composite design. Variable controls (enzyme-substrate concentration (E/S), time, and temperature) were assessed for their impact on activities against collagenase, 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl radical (DPPH●), and degree of hydrolysis of protein hydrolysate (PH). PH was also investigated for composition, anti-skin aging, and anti-inflammatory effects. Amino acid sequences with potent anti-skin aging activity were isolated and identified using ultrafiltration, gel filtration chromatography, and liquid chromatography coupled with tandem mass spectrometry, employing de novo sequencing. Optimal conditions for producing PH with maximum anti-skin aging activity were an E/S concentration of 2.1% (w/w), 227 min, and 61.5 °C. Glutamic acid was a predominant amino acid and PH exhibited a molecular weight below 15 kDa. Additionally, PH displayed significant activities against collagenase, hyaluronidase, DPPH●, lipid peroxidation, and NF-κB-mediated inflammation (p < 0.05). Three novel anti-skin aging peptides were identified-Ala-Val-Thr-Lys-Ala-Asp-Pro-Tyr-Thr-Asp-Gln, Thr-Val-Met-Glu-Leu-Asn-Asp-Leu-Val-Lys-Ala-Phe, and Val-Pro-Leu-Leu-Glu-Pro-Trp-exhibiting the most potent collagenase and DPPH● inhibition. Therefore, this study proposed that PH, produced with Alcalase® under optimal conditions, emerges as a promising substance with potent anti-skin aging activity for the cosmeceutical industry.

Acheta domesticus: A Natural Source of Anti-Skin-Aging Ingredients for Cosmetic Applications.

Acheta domesticus is an edible insect, rich in nutritional value and considered a sustainable protein source. This study aimed to investigate the potential application of A. domesticus extracts for anti-skin-aging purposes. The extracts were prepared by maceration at ambient temperature with 95% ethanol or hexane and maceration in gentle heat (45 °C) with 95% v/v ethanol or DI water. The extracts were examined for total protein, phenolic, and flavonoid contents. Protein molecular weight distribution was analyzed. The safety of the extracts was investigated in terms of irritation and cytotoxicity. Biological activities relevant to the inhibition of skin aging were evaluated, including increasing transforming growth factor-beta 1 (TGF-β1) expression and inhibitory activities on collagenase and hyaluronidase. The aqueous extract from maceration in gentle heat had the highest total protein content (63 ± 1% w/w), total phenolic content (0.48 ± 0.03 mg GAE/g extract), TGF-β1 stimulating activities (33 ± 2 pg/mL), and collagenase inhibition (with a half maximal inhibitory concentration of 26 ± 1 µg/mL) among various extracts investigated. It caused no irritation to the hen's egg chorioallantoic membrane and showed no cytotoxicity to human dermal fibroblasts and peripheral blood mononuclear cells. Therefore, aqueous A. domesticus extract is proposed as an innovative natural anti-skin-aging ingredient.

The potential of Paeonia lactiflora pall seeds oil as a pure natural cosmetics raw material: InVitro findings.

As a traditional Chinese herbal medicine, Paeonia lactiflora Pall is rich in various active ingredients such as polysaccharides and total flavonoids while having ornamental value. It has potential application value in the development of food and cosmetics. To study the invitro efficacy of Paeonia lactiflora Pall seeds oil. Firstly, the levels of linolenic acid and linoleic acid in Paeonia lactiflora Pall seeds oil were quantified using gas chromatography. The impact of Paeonia lactiflora Pall seeds oil on the proliferation rate of B16F10 cells was assessed through the CCK-8 method, while the melanin content of B16F10 cells was determined using the sodium hydroxide lysis method. The inhibitory effects of Paeonia lactiflora Pall seeds oil on elastase, collagenase and hyaluronidase were evaluated by biochemical techniques invitro. Lastly, the hen's egg chorioallantoic membrane test (HET-CAM) was conducted to confirm the absence of eye irritation caused by Paeonia lactiflora Pall seeds oil. Paeonia lactiflora Pall seeds oil within a certain volume concentration range (0.5%-4%) had no effect on the proliferation of B16F10 cells. Paeonia lactiflora Pall seeds oil showed significant inhibition of elastase, collagenase and hyaluronidase. Notably, the highest concentration tested, 4% Paeonia lactiflora Pall seed oil, yielded the most pronounced outcomes without causing any irritation. A certain concentration of Paeonia lactiflora Pall seeds oil has a significant effect on decreasing the melanin content in B16F10 cells and inhibiting the activities of elastase, collagenase, and hyaluronidase, which can provide a reference for the development of pure natural cosmetics raw materials.

Study on Chemical Composition and Biological Activity of Psidium guajava Leaf Extracts.

Guava (Psidium guajava) is a plant widely distributed in tropical and subtropical regions. Its leaves contain a large amount of physiological molecules such as flavonoid, sesquiterpene, triterpenoid, coumarin, alkaloid, and tannin molecules with antioxidative and anti-inflammatory effects. In this study, the use of concentrated P. guajava leaf extract molecules as a functional natural material was evaluated by confirming the extract's antioxidative, antibacterial, tyrosinase activity inhibition, and collagenase activity inhibition effects and its trans-2-nonenal removal ability. As a result of the analysis of the antioxidant and antibacterial components of concentrated P. guajava leaf extract molecules through GC-MS, a large amount of aromatic hydrocarbon molecules were detected. When different concentrations of ethanol were used for extraction, the leaf extract concentrated with 70% ethanol showed the most effective active molecules. As a result of measuring DPPH radical scavenging activity, a concentration-dependent antioxidant activity was confirmed. The antioxidant activity tended to increase when the ethanol content used for extraction was increased. Molecules such as 2,4-di-tert-butylphenol, caryophyllene oxide, and γ-muurolene in P. guajava leaf extract concentrate appeared to have antibacterial activities against S. aureus bacteria known to cause atopy. As ethanol content increased, the inhibitory effect on tyrosinase activity was increased. In addition, when ethanol content was 50%, the concentrated leaf extract was able to remove trans-2-nonenal by 52.4%. As a result of determining the concentrated leaf extract's collagenase inhibition activity, an inhibition rate close to that of ascorbic acid, a positive control, was confirmed. The concentrated guajava leaf extract molecules were confirmed to have whitening and wrinkle-improving functionality. Thus, the P. guajava leaf extract has high potential as a food and natural cosmetic material.

Skin Anti-Aging Potential through Whitening and Wrinkle Improvement Using Fermented Oil Derived from Hermetia illucens Larvae.

As the aging population increases, so has interest among emerging seniors in anti-aging ingredients that enhance functionality by incorporating fermentation with natural materials. In this study, fermentation conditions for enhancing the functionality of Hermetia illucens larvae oil (HIO) were established, and its anti-aging potential was evaluated. First, the lipase activity and amount of lipid degradation products of the fermentation strains were measured in order to select Lactobacillus gasseri and Lactiplantibacillus plantarum as the strains with high fermentation ability. A fermentation period of 28 d and a fermentation method that uses only the strain culture medium were established by evaluating the fermentation degree after fermenting HIO with the selected strains. The whitening functionality test results of fermented HIO (FHIO) showed an increase of approximately 20% in extracellular tyrosinase inhibition activity compared with HIO. Additionally, within melanocytes, there was a 12% increase in tyrosinase inhibition activity and a 26% enhancement in melanin production inhibition ability. For wrinkle-improving functionality, it was observed that, for fibroblasts, there was a 10% increase in collagen production, a 9% increase in collagenase inhibition ability, and an 8% increase in elastase inhibition ability. Therefore, FHIO was confirmed to be an effective cosmetic raw material, with high functionality for anti-aging within the senior generation. This is achieved through increased whitening and wrinkle-improving functionality.

Volatiles from French and Croatian Sea Fennel Ecotypes: Chemical Profiles and the Antioxidant, Antimicrobial and Antiageing Activity of Essential Oils and Hydrolates.

Sea fennel is a halophytic plant rich in valuable nutritional components and is characterized by pleasant organoleptic properties. While its essential oils (EOs) are well investigated, there are no reports on the volatiles from their corresponding hydrolates, which are the main by-products of EO isolation, as well as on their biological activity. Therefore, the composition and biological activities of EOs and corresponding hydrolates of sea fennel from Atlantic (French, FRA) and Mediterranean (Croatian, CRO) ecotypes were investigated and compared. The EO from the CRO sample was characterized by an abundance of sabinene and limonene, while that from the FRA ecotype was rich in dillapiol and carvacryl methyl ether. The CRO hydrolate was rich in terpinen-4-ol and 10-(acetylmethyl)-3-carene, while dillapiol, thymyl methyl ether and γ-terpinene were the main compounds in the FRA sea fennel hydrolate. The biological activities of the EOs and hydrolates were evaluated for their antioxidant (with DPPH, NO, FRAP and ORAC bioassays), antimicrobial (against some Gram+ and Gram- spoilage bacteria) and antiageing (tyrosinase, elastase and collagenase inhibition) activities. Both EOs showed low reducing powers and antiradical activities while the ability of both hydrolates to quench NO was slightly higher (35-39% if inhibition). The FRA EO showed low activity against Staphylococcus aureus (8 mm), while CRO moderately inhibited the growth of P. aeruginosa (8 mm), but strongly inhibited the other two bacterial strains. While the French EO showed no antityrosinase and anticollagenase activity, the Croatian oil significantly inhibited both enzymes (IC50 of 650 µg/mL and IC50 of 2570 µg/mL, respectively) probably due to the dominance of limonene and sabinene. Neither EO exhibited antielastase properties, while the hydrolates from both ecotypes showed no antiageing activity, regardless of the enzyme tested. The EOs from the aerial parts of sea fennel from FRA and CRO differed greatly in composition, resulting in different activities. The Croatian samples appeared to have better biological properties and are therefore good candidates for applications as preservatives or antiageing agents.

Nanoemulsions Containing Mucuna pruriens (L.) DC. Seed Extract for Cosmetic Applications

Mucuna pruriens is a medicinal plant whose seeds have various types of pharmacological activities and are used in many traditional medicines. The aim of this study was to evaluate the phytochemicals as well as the anti-aging, antioxidant, and moisturizing properties of seed extracts of M. pruriens var. pruriens and M. pruriens var. utilis. In addition, the best extract was selected for the development of nanoemulsions. M. pruriens var. utilis had the highest total phenolic and total flavonoid contents. It had good antioxidant activity (the IC50 of DPPH was 4.87 µg/mL, the FRAP value was 1.63 mg of FeSO4/mg of extract, and the percentage of lipid peroxidation was 80.19%) and anti-aging activity (the percentages of inhibition of hyaluronidase, collagenase, and elastase were 26.41%, 51.16%, and 22.78%, respectively). The occlusive factor was 46.12 ± 1.72. Therefore, M. pruriens var. utilis seed extract was selected for the preparation of nanoemulsions. The results showed that the size, PDI, and zeta potential of nanoemulsions containing M. pruriens var. utilis seed extract at day 30 did not significantly differ from those at day 0. In addition, the %EE was 63.46%. A study of skin permeation showed that the retention in the membrane after six hours of skin permeation study was 44.19%. Therefore, nanoemulsions containing M. pruriens var. utilis seed extract have good potential for further use in cosmetic applications.

Matrix metalloproteinase-8 (MMP-8) and its inhibitors: A minireview

The type-II collagenase, also known as matrix metalloproteinase-8 (MMP-8) plays a vital role in a variety of physiological illnesses namely cardiovascular, musculoskeletal, renal, digestive, and respiratory ailments including cancer. However, numerous novel compounds with effective MMP-8 inhibitory activity have been created by research and academic institutions, pharmaceutical companies, and both. Sadly, despite showing promising results, these compounds have a variety of negative side effects. In this context, a number of MMP-8 inhibitors having potential inhibitory activity with different key structural features such as hydroxamates, carboxylic acid, thiol and mercaptosulfide, phosphonate, and pyrimidine-2,4,6-trione have been discussed. Additionally, various ligand-based and structure-based drug designs that have been previously conducted on a variety of MMP-8 inhibitors have been thoroughly reviewed and that can offer important information regarding the development of novel MMP-8 inhibitors in the future. Therefore, the detailed knowledge about the key structural features of the existing MMP-8 inhibitors can be found, and further with the help of drug design strategies, a novel class of collagenase inhibitors may be identified. In light of this, this work may be beneficial for researchers looking into the processes involved in developing and identifying new potential and promising MMP-8 inhibitors.