Coarse Wrinkles Research Articles

Anti-photoaging effects of chitosan oligosaccharide in ultraviolet-irradiated hairless mouse skin

Skin photoaging (SP) is a premature skin-aging damage after repeated exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation, mainly characterized by oxidative stress and inflammatory disequilibrium, which makes skin show the typical symptoms of photoaging such as coarse wrinkling, dryness, irregular pigmentation and laxity. Chitosan oligosaccharide (COS), a natural polysaccharide with good humectant property, is the depolymerized product of chitosan with various biological activities, among which the antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects have been frequently reported in recent years. However, no existing invivo study indicates whether COS has direct protective effect on UV-induced SP. In the current research, we investigated the potential preventive effect of COS against UV-caused damage in hairless mouse dorsal skin. The data showed that COS, by topical application after each UV-radiation for 10weeks, effectively inhibited the undesirable changes on the skin induced by UV. To be specific, COS obviously alleviated the macroscopic and histopathological damages of mice skin, via mitigating the disrupted collagenous fibers, as well as improving the relative content of type I collagen and the amount of total collagen. Furthermore, COS effectively inhibited the levels of pro-inflammatory cytokines such as TNF-α, IL-1β and IL-6, and markedly improved the activities of antioxidant enzymes (SOD, GSH-Px, CAT), as well as the content of skin hydroxyproline and moisture. These findings demonstrated that this natural polysaccharide attenuated UV-induced SP, at least in part, by virtue of favorable regulation of antioxidant and anti-inflammatory status, which presumably worked in concert to maintain the morphology and level of dermal collagen.

Skin tumours and skin aging in 209 French elderly people: the PROOF study.

Few studies have evaluated the prevalence of skin tumours in the geriatric population and none have analysed different skin aging parameters for whole-body skin in this population. To evaluate the prevalence of skin tumours and global skin aging in a French cohort of elderly people. In total, 209 subjects, 105 women and 104 men (mean age: 77.5; range: 74-81 years), were enrolled from the PROOF (PROgnostic indicator OF cardiovascular and cerebrovascular events) cohort. SCINEXA (SCore for INtrinsic and EXtrinsic skin Aging) was used to assess the degree of skin aging and the prevalence of skin tumours. Some additional cutaneous parameters were also studied. Skin aging in women and men was compared. Mean global SCINEXA was 24.3 (SD: 4.7; range: 8.2-35.3). Solar elastosis and lax appearance were more severe in women (t test; p<0.0001), whereas pseudoscars (t test; p=0.0312) and coarse wrinkles (t test; p=0.0479) were more severe in men. Erythrosis coli (chi-square test; p<0.0001) was more frequent in men, whereas varicous veins (chi-square test; p=0.0026) and eyelid xanthomas (chi-square test; p=0.0282) were more frequent in women. Twelve patients presented with cutaneous carcinomas and two patients had early melanomas. This research describes in detail the main indices of skin aging in an old population and the differences related to gender. Moreover, it highlights the utility of systematic screening of old patients by dermatologists in order to diagnose skin cancers early.

Epithelial-mesenchymal interaction during photodynamic therapy-induced photorejuvenation.

Recently, several clinical studies reported that the photodynamic therapy (PDT) has photorejuvenation effects on the aged skin. Previously, our group introduced evidence of direct effect of PDT on cultured fibroblast (FB). PDT directly stimulated FBs and induced collagen synthesis through activation of extracellular signal-regulated kinase. In this study, we investigated indirect effect of PDT on the human dermal FB during photorejuvenation focused on the epithelial-mesenchymal interaction between keratinocyte (KC) and FB. The "low-level PDT" condition was used for PDT therapy to the cultured KC. Various kinds of cytokines in the supernatants of KC were evaluated by enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay. FBs were stimulated with the KC-conditioned medium (KCM) taken after PDT. The mRNA level of matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs), transforming growth factor (TGF)-β and collagen type Iα in the FB, was determined by real-time polymerase chain reaction. Clinical phtorejuvenation effect was also evaluated from nine patients who had PDT to treat actinic keratoses. Among the FB-stimulating cytokines, a significant elevation of interleukin (IL)-1α, IL-6, and tumor necrosis factor-α level in KCM was noted after PDT compared with controls. After stimulating FB with KCM, the mRNA of MMP-1 was decreased and the mRNA of collagen type Iα was increased compare to control. Clinically, fine wrinkles significantly reduced after PDT. However, coarse wrinkles were not recovered significantly. In conclusion, increased collagen synthesis may be mediated not only by direct effect of PDT on FB but also by indirect effect of PDT on FB through cytokines from KC, such as IL-1α, IL-6, and tumor necrosis factor-α.

Serum Vitamin D and Facial Aging: Is There a Link?

Background: The vitamin D endocrine system, besides multiple other functions, regulates aging in many tissues, including the skin. It protects the skin against the hazardous effects of many skin age-inducing agents, including ultraviolet radiation. Thus, in the present study we aimed to investigate the relationship between facial skin aging and 25-hydroxyvitamin D [25(OH)D] serum levels in healthy Egyptian adults. Methods: Sixty-one healthy adult subjects were included. Photodamage scores (erythema/telangiectasias, lentigines, hyperpigmentation and coarse wrinkling) were assessed and graded. Serum vitamin D was measured using enzyme immunoassay and subjects were classified as sufficient, insufficient or deficient according to the vitamin level. Results: The mean 25(OH)D serum level was 43.90 nmol/l. A high prevalence of vitamin D deficiency was detected in the studied subjects regardless of their age or gender. Also, vitamin D levels were not correlated with photodamage scores and were not affected by the Fitzpatrick skin phototype, duration of sun exposure per day or the use of sunscreens (p > 0.05 for all). Conclusions: Aging is a complex process that is influenced by many genetic and environmental factors. Facial aging is not correlated with serum vitamin D level, and clinical trials using oral or topical vitamin D to combat aging are better predictors of its effects rather than in vivo studies.

Garlic Supplementation Ameliorates UV-Induced Photoaging in Hairless Mice by Regulating Antioxidative Activity and MMPs Expression.

UV exposure is associated with oxidative stress and is the primary factor in skin photoaging. UV-induced reactive oxygen species (ROS) cause the up-regulation of metalloproteinase (MMPs) and the degradation of dermal collagen and elastic fibers. Garlic and its components have been reported to exert antioxidative effects. The present study investigated the protective effect of garlic on UV-induced photoaging and MMPs regulation in hairless mice. Garlic was supplemented in the diet, and Skh-1 hairless mice were exposed to UV irradiation five days/week for eight weeks. Mice were divided into four groups; Non-UV, UV-irradiated control, UV+1% garlic powder diet group, and UV+2% garlic powder diet group. Chronic UV irradiation induced rough wrinkling of the skin with hyperkeratosis, and administration of garlic diminished the coarse wrinkle formation. UV-induced dorsal skin and epidermal thickness were also ameliorated by garlic supplementation. ROS generation, skin and serum malondialdehyde levels were significantly increased by UV exposure and were ameliorated by garlic administration although the effects were not dose-dependent. Antioxidant enzymes such as superoxide dismutase and catalase activities in skin tissues were markedly reduced by UV irradiation and garlic treatment increased these enzyme activities. UV-induced MMP-1 and MMP-2 protein levels were suppressed by garlic administration. Furthermore, garlic supplementation prevented the UV-induced increase of MMP-1 mRNA expression and the UV-induced decrease of procollagen mRNA expression. These results suggest that garlic may be effective for preventing skin photoaging accelerated by UV irradiation through the antioxidative system and MMP regulation.

Phloroglucinol Reduces Photodamage in Hairless Mice via Matrix Metalloproteinase Activity Through MAPK Pathway.

We investigated the photoprotective activity of phloroglucinol on ultraviolet B (UVB)-induced deleterious effects in hairless mice in vivo. To assess the photoprotective effect of phloroglucinol, phloroglucinol-treated HR-1 hairless male mice were exposed to UVB irradiation. The inhibitory activity of phloroglucinol on wrinkle formation was determined by analysis of skin replicas, epidermal thickness based on histological examination and collagen damage. Matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1), matrix metalloproteinase-9 (MMP-9) and tissue inhibitor of metalloproteinase (TIMP) mRNA levels were measured by real-time PCR. UVB induced transcription of proinflammatory cytokines, including interleukin-1 beta (IL-1β, IL-6) and IL-8 (IL-8). The protective effects of phloroglucinol on UVB-induced skin photoaging were examined by measuring protein levels of MMPs and mitogen-activated protein (MAP) kinases. The results of these experiments suggest that phloroglucinol has a significant beneficial effect on the barrier function of the skin. In hairless mice, signs of photoaging and photodamage, including coarse wrinkle formation, epidermal thickness and elastic fiber degeneration, were reduced in severity by phloroglucinol application. The phloroglucinol-treated group showed remarkably decreased mRNA levels of MMP-1, MMP-9 and inflammatory cytokines in comparison with those of the UVB-induced group. Oral administration of phloroglucinol attenuated phosphorylation of MAP kinases, including extracellular signal-regulated kinase, c-Jun N-terminal kinase and p38.

Efficacy of photodynamic therapy with laser pretreatment for actinic keratosis and photorejuvenation as evaluated by fluorescent imaging

The Methylaminolevulinate-photodynamic therapy (MAL-PDT) has been reported to be effective in treating actinic keratosis (AK). Fluorescent images taken after topical MAL application have been used to diagnose cancerous lesions. We evaluated therapeutic efficacy of MAL-PDT for multiple AK and defined value of fluorescent images in evaluating treatment response. We also investigated photorejuvenation effects of PDT. Ten patients with multiple AK were enrolled. We did histological confirmation of the lesion by biopsy. After 3 h of MAL cream occlusion, red light was illuminated with 37 J/cm(2) on 0, 4, 16, and 20 weeks. At each visit, lesions were counted by inspection and fluorescent images were taken under ultraviolet A light. We repeated skin biopsy in 16 weeks. All patients showed significant improvement after three sessions of PDT. The average remission rate was 85.96%. Overall, patients showed significant improvement in photoaging such as erythema, coarse wrinkles, and skin roughness. Histological examination also showed improvement. There was meaningful agreement between lesion count by fluorescent imaging and inspection (coefficient = 0.9). PDT was found to be effective, well-tolerated, cosmetically acceptable for AK treatment and photorejuvenation, both clinically and histologically. In addition, fluorescent images taken after MAL application aided in evaluation of treatment response as well as diagnosis.

A nuclear factor kappa B-derived inhibitor tripeptide inhibits UVB-induced photoaging process

BackgroundUltraviolet (UV) irradiation on the skin induces photoaging which is characterized by keratinocyte hyperproliferation, generation of coarse wrinkles, worse of laxity and roughness. Upon UV irradiation, nuclear factor kappa B (NF-κB) is activated which plays a key role in signaling pathway leading to inflammation cascade and this activation stimulates expression of pro-inflammatory cytokines such as tumor necrosis factor alpha (TNF-α), interleukin-1alpha (IL-1α) and a stress response gene cyclooxygenase-2 (COX-2). In addition, activation of NF-κB up-regulates the expression of matrix metalloprotease-1 (MMP-1) and consequently collagen in dermis is degraded. ObjectiveIn this study, the effects of a NF-κB-derived inhibitor tripeptide on the UVB-induced photoaging and inflammation were investigated in vitro and in vivo. MethodsA NF-κB-derived inhibitor tripeptide (NF-κB-DVH) was synthesized based on the sequence of dimerization region of the subunit p65 of NF-κB. Its inhibitory activity was confirmed using chromatin immunoprecipitation assay and in situ proximate ligation assay. The effects of anti-photoaging and anti-inflammation were analyzed by Enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay (ELISA), immunoblotting and immunochemistry. ResultsNF-κB-DVH significantly decreased UV-induced expression of TNF-α, IL-1α, MMP-1 and COX-2 while increased production of type I procollagen. ConclusionResults showed NF-κB-DVH had strong anti-inflammatory activity probably by inhibiting NF-κB activation pathway and suggested to be used as a novel agent for anti-photoaging.

홍삼과 어유(魚油) 복합식이에 의한 UV-유도 광노화 억제효과

Objective : UV irradiatiion causes skin-aging involving coarse wrinkles, thickning, dyspigmentation, and rough skin surface. This study was aimed to elucidate the anti-winkle activity of complex diet of Korean red ginseng (RG) and fish oil (FO) on UV-induced Photoaging. Methods : To investigated photo-protective effects of Korean red ginseng and fish oil on UV-induced damaged skins, SKH hairless female mice were randomly divided into six groups [control, UV, UV/RG, UV/FO, UV/RG/FO(low), UV/RG/FO(high)]and orally administered three times a week respectively. UV radiation was applied to the backs of the mice three times a week for 8 weeks. Expressions of matrix metalloproteinase (MMP)-3, MMP-13 and tissue inhibitor matrix metalloproteinase (TIMP)-1 in skin were measured by immunohistochemical staining. Results : In this study, UVB-induced epidermal hypertropy was diminished by RG group or FO group or complex group of RG and FO. Expression levels of MMP-3 and MMP-13 were reduced and expression level of TIMP-1 was increased by RG group or FO group or complex group of RG and FO. Especially MMP-3 and MMP-13 were markedly reduced by diet of FO and complex diet of RG and FO compared with untreated group. Conclusions : This results suggest that complex diet of RG and FO have a anti-wrinkle activity on UV-induced photo-aging and intrinsic aging.

EGb-761 prevents ultraviolet B-induced photoaging via inactivation of mitogen-activated protein kinases and proinflammatory cytokine expression

BackgroundEGb-761 is an antioxidant and anticarcinogen; however, its role as a photoprotector remains unknown. ObjectiveTo determine whether EGb-761 photoprotects human dermal fibroblasts and BALB/c mice skin against ultraviolet B (UVB) light irradiation. MethodsTo simulate chronic photodamage, shaved BALB/c mice were exposed to UVB irradiation (90mJ/cm2) thrice weekly for 3 months. EGb-761 (2mg/cm2) was topically applied 1h before irradiation to evaluate its effect. The mechanisms by which EGb-761 protects the skin from photodamage were evaluated by immunohistochemical analysis, enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay (ELISA), and Western blotting. ResultsIn BALB/c mice, the signs of photoaging or photodamage, such as coarse wrinkle formation, epidermal hyperplasia, and elastic fiber degeneration, markedly reduced with the topical application of EGb-761. Western blot and ELISA revealed that the activation of MMP-1 in cultured fibroblasts markedly diminished after pretreatment with EGb-761. In addition, EGb-761 inhibited UVB-induced overexpression by the fibroblasts of the proinflammatory cytokines, such as interleukin (IL)-1α, IL-1β, IL-6, and tumor necrosis factor-α. The phosphorylation of the mitogen-activated protein kinase (MAPK) signal transduction pathway components, including extracellular signal-regulated kinase, C-Jun N-terminal kinase, and p38, which are induced by UV irradiation, was significantly inhibited in vivo and in vitro. EGb-761 also diminished the generation of UVB-induced reactive oxygen species (ROS). ConclusionsEGb-761 photoprotects mice and cultured fibroblasts, inhibits the UVB-induced phosphorylation of MAPK pathway components, and reduces the expression of the proinflammatory cytokines by suppressing ROS generation. Thus, topically applied EGb-761 may be a promising photoprotective agent.

Preventive effect of fermented Gelidium amansii and Cirsium japonicum extract mixture against UVB-induced skin photoaging in hairless mice

Chronic ultraviolet (UV) light causes skin photoaging, characterized by fine and coarse wrinkle formation and dryness. In this study, the effect of fermented Gelidium amansii and Cirsium japonicum extract mixture (FGCM) with lactic acid bacteria on UVB-induced photoaging was evaluated in human dermal fibroblasts and SKH-1 hairless mice. In vitro, FGCM increased type I procollagen levels and suppressed UVB-induced matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) expression more effectively than G. amansii and C. japonicum extract mixture (GCM). In vivo, oral administration of FGCM significantly inhibited UVB-induced the number and total depth of wrinkles in the dorsal skin of mice. FGCM suppressed UVB-induced epidermal thickening, and attenuated UVB-induced MMP-13 expression and MMP-2 and MMP-9 activities in dermal tissue. Furthermore, FGCM increased skin hydration and blocked transepidermal water loss in the dorsal skin of mice compared with the UVB-irradiated group. These data indicate that FGCM exerts potent anti-photoaging activities by improving wrinkle formation and dryness.

The coarse wrinkle layer ofPalaeozoic ammonoids: new evidence from theEarlyCarboniferous ofMorocco

AbstractThe wrinkle layer is a dorsal shell structure occurring in a number of ammonoids, but its function is still debated. Here, we describe, from Moroccan material of the Early Carboniferous speciesMaxigoniatites saourensis(Pareyn,), the most conspicuous wrinkle layer known within theAmmonoidea. This additional shell layer occurs in the ventrolateral portion of the adult body chamber and forms continuous lamellae, which range about two millimetres into the lumen of the body chamber. Possible functions are discussed and the most likely interpretation for the structure is ‘fabricational noise’, which is related to the coarsening of the shell ornament of the terminal body chamber.

Extrinsic skin ageing symptoms in seafarers subject to high work-related exposure to UV radiation

As outdoor workers, seafarers have high levels of work-related exposure to UV radiation. Considering the various ethnic shipboard crews, this study aimed to assess the prevalence of UV induced skin ageing symptoms among seafarers and their attitude towards sunlight exposure. One dermatologist examined 514 seafarers and documented the presence of 11 extrinsic skin ageing symptoms. Based on a questionnaire, the seafarers' attitudes and sun protection were evaluated. On average, 4 extrinsic skin ageing symptoms were found among the seafarers without significant differences between ethnic groups. Teleangiectasis (n = 381), coarse wrinkles (n = 315) and lentigines solares (n = 228) were the most frequently observed extrinsic symptoms. In the multivariate analysis, the parameters current smoking (OR 1.52 (1.01-2.27)), shipboard rank (deck personnel, galley staff vs. engine room personnel; (OR 1.40 (1.01-1.94)), and age (OR 1.07 (1.05-1.10)) were significantly associated with developing skin ageing symptoms. Only half of the seafarers examined were aware of their elevated risk of photodamage due to their high UV exposure at sea. More non-Caucasian than Caucasian seafarers perceived tanned skin as rather positive (78.0% vs. 52.4%; p = 0.002); however, more Caucasian than non-Caucasian seafarers enjoyed intensive sunbathing (17.0% vs. 14.0%). Furthermore, 55.7% of the seafarers (significantly more often Caucasians) used sunscreens during sunlight exposure at sea. The various ethnic groups examined differed in their attitude and behaviour towards shipboard sun exposure. Education of shipboard crews is required about possible severe health effects due to sun exposure at sea.

Photoaging

Photoaging

A Pilot Split-Face Study Comparing Conventional Methyl Aminolevulinate-Photodynamic Therapy (PDT) With Microneedling-Assisted PDT on Actinically Damaged Skin

Topical photodynamic therapy (PDT) is an approved treatment for superficial nonmelanoma skin cancers. To enhance photosensitizer penetration into the epidermis, microneedling (MN) devices or ablative carbon dioxide lasers are combined with PDT. To compare the efficacy and safety of MN-assisted PDT with that of conventional PDT in human skin field cancerization. Ten patients with multiple actinic keratoses (AKs) and photodamage were randomized to receive conventional methyl aminolevulinate (MAL) with previous gentle curettage on one side of the face and MAL-PDT combined with 1.5-mm-length MN on the other side after MAL application. After a 90-minute incubation, patients were illuminated with a red light-emitting diode and evaluated for improvement of photodamage, clearance of AKs, and side effects before and after 30 and 90days. At day 30, global scores for photodamage, mottled pigmentation, roughness, and sallowness improved on both sides (p<.05), but fine lines improved only on the MN-PDT side (p=.004). At day 90, facial erythema (p=.04) and coarse wrinkles (p=.002) also improved on the MN-PDT side, in addition to fine lines for conventional MAL-PDT (p=.01). Erythema (p=.009), edema (p=.01), crusting (p=.01), and pain (p=.004) were more common and intense on the MN-PDT side. One patient developed a secondary bacterial infection at day 7 on the MN-PDT side. Average AK clearance was 88.3%, with no difference between the sides. Microneedling-assisted PDT is a safe and effective method and can produce superior cosmetic results to conventional MAL-PDT for improving photodamaged skin. Further larger prospective studies are needed to determine whether the addition of MN decreases actinic keratosis.

The effect of a vitamin A palmitate and antioxidant‐containing oil‐based moisturizer on photodamaged skin of several body sites

Cumulative lifetime sun exposure is accepted as having a very important role to play in the expression of the signs of photoaging, which is then superimposed on the intrinsic processes involved in the chronological aging of skin. Many groups have evaluated the effects of emulsion-based products, mostly although not exclusively, on the face using a variety of actives including retinoids and antioxidants. Nevertheless, the effect of a topical anhydrous product on photodamaged skin has not been reported in the literature. The objective of this study was to clinically evaluate the effect of a vitamin A palmitate and antioxidant-containing oil-based moisturizer on facial, neck, decolletage, arms, and lower leg body sites. In a randomized, controlled and efficacy grader-blinded clinical study conducted over 12 weeks, while at the same time recording the changes in skin condition for a no-treatment group over the same time period, live clinical expert grading of all body sites and also grading of photographs for the face and neck assessed changes in the signs of photodamage was performed for the treatment and no-treatment groups. Compared to the no-treatment group, and to baseline, the oil improved fine lines, coarse wrinkles, mottled pigmentation, uneven skin tone, roughness, firmness, and clarity of the skin on the face and neck and was also shown to improve crepey skin texture, dryness, scaling and roughness on the decolletage, arms and lower legs at the primary end point at 12weeks (P<0.001). Moreover, improvements in a variety of parameters were observed as quickly as 2weeks. In general, the degree of improvement was greatest in the order legs>arms>decolletage>face>neck. Collectively, these results show the cumulative improvements in the signs of photoaging compared to a no-treatment control group for the oil-based antiaging moisturizer for the first time. The differences in the efficacy of the vitamin A palmiate and antioxidant oil-based moisturizer on different body sites probably reflect the differences in likely photodamage.

Efficacy of a Novel Treatment Serum in the Improvement of Photodamaged Skin

SynopsisA novel treatment serum formulated to target multiple pathways in the anti-ageing cascade was tested both in vitro and in clinical settings. In vitro testing was performed to assess the ability to stimulate key proteins and genes fundamental to the anti-ageing cascade. The antioxidant potential of the formulation was studied in a UV-irradiation clinical study. A 12-week, open-label, single-centre study was conducted to determine whether this uniquely formulated topical treatment serum could improve visible signs of facial photodamage. Clinical evaluations showed statistically significant reductions in fine wrinkles and coarse wrinkles and improvements in skin texture, tone and radiance starting at week 4 with continued improvements at weeks 8 and 12. Subject self-assessments confirmed that the beneficial effects of the treatment serum were readily observed by the users. The treatment serum was well tolerated with no treatment-related adverse events reported during the 12-week study. Use of this novel treatment serum produced significant improvements in the visible signs of facial photodamage.RésuméUn nouveau sérum de traitement conçu pour cibler de multiples voies dans la cascade anti-âge a été testé à la fois in vitro et dans les conditions cliniques. Les tests in vitro ont été réalisés afin d'évaluer la capacité de stimuler les protéines et les gènes clés fondamentales de la cascade anti-vieillissement. Le potentiel antioxydant de la formulation a été étudié dans une étude clinique utilisant le rayonnement UV. Une étude de douze semaines, en mode ouvert, monocentrique a été menée afin de déterminer si ce sérum spécialement formulé pour le traitement topique peut améliorer les signes visibles du photo-vieillissement du visage. Des évaluations cliniques ont montré une réduction statistiquement significative des rides et des ridules secondaires et l'amélioration de la texture de la peau, du tonus et d'éclat à partir de la semaine 4 avec des améliorations continues aux semaines 8 et 12. Les autoévaluations par les sujets ont confirmé que les effets bénéfiques du sérum de traitement étaient facilement observés par les utilisateurs. Le sérum de traitement a été bien toléré avec aucun événement indésirable rapporté au cours de l'étude de 12 semaines. L'utilisation de ce nouveau sérum de traitement produit des améliorations significatives dans les signes visibles du photovieillissement du visage.

Innovative Cosmeceuticals: Sirtuin Activators and Anti-Glycation Compounds

Skin aging is a combination of natural aging with superimposed photoaging. Naturally aged skin is thin, fragile and finely wrinkled whereas photoaged skin is rough and thickened with deep coarse wrinkles. In addition photoaging is characterized by mottled pigmentation, solar lentigines, telangectasias and a loss of elasticity. The science behind skin aging has exploded in the past decade. Skin aging has now been defined on both a cellular and molecular level. The study of genomics in aging skin provides us with potential targets as points for intervention. In this regard, the science behind skin aging becomes a platform for the development of new anti-aging strategies and products. In this paper two new and emerging approaches to treat aging skin will be discussed. Sirtuin activating and anti-glycation products are already being marketed by cosmetic and pharmaceutical companies. These anti-aging approaches are backed by basic science research and the ingredients used are supported by proof of concept studies although clinical trials are often lacking. It is this bench to beauty counter approach to cosmeceuticals that remains an industry standard today.

Acceleration of UVB-induced photoageing in nrf2 gene-deficient mice

Ultraviolet (UV) radiation is one of the most important environmental factors involved in the pathogenesis of premature skin ageing, termed photoageing. The harmful effects of UV in photoageing are associated with the generation of reactive oxygen species, and cellular antioxidants act to prevent the occurrence and reduce the severity of UV-induced photoageing. The transcription factor Nrf2 and its cytoplasmic anchor protein, Keap1, are central regulators of the cellular antioxidant response. Here, we investigated the role of the Nrf2-Keap1 pathway in photoageing using nrf2 gene-deficient (nrf2(-/-)) mice. Our results indicated that UVB-irradiated nrf2(-/-) mice showed accelerated photoageing, such as coarse wrinkle formation, loss of skin flexibility, epidermal thickening and deposition of extracellular matrix in the upper dermis. In addition, nrf2(-/-) mice also showed an increase in cutaneous reactivity for the lipid peroxidation product 4-hydroxy-2-nonenal and a significant decrease in cutaneous glutathione level. These findings indicate that Nrf2 plays the important role in the protection against UVB-induced photoageing.

A Chinese experience of fractional Ultrapulsed CO2 laser for skin rejuvenation

Background and objectives: The ablative fractional CO2 laser has been successfully used in treating photoaged skin in the Caucasian population. However, its application in Asian skin has not been widely reported. The purpose of this study is to observe the efficacy and safety of the protocol ‘ActiveFX’ for photodamaged facial skin in Chinese patients. Methods: A non-sequential fractional ultrapulsed CO2 laser with specific settings is used in addition to a new computer pattern generator (CPG). Twenty patients received a single-session, single-pass, ablative fractional treatment on a split face. The patients were evaluated at baseline, and 1 and 3 months (M1, M3) after the treatment using a quartile grading scale. They were also asked to assess their overall satisfaction using a 4-point scale. The improvement of the coarse wrinkles was also quantitatively analyzed with a 3D in vivo imaging system. Results: At M1 and M3, the blinded investigator rated global improvement as 2.8 ± 0.95 and 3.00 ± 0.73, which was consistent with the patients' assessment (2.55 ± 0.83 at M1 and 3.15 ± 0.88 at M3). The roughness analysis (Rz) demonstrated a significant decrease in periorbital wrinkles (p < 0.0001). Minimal and reversible adverse side effects and rapid healing were noted. Conclusions: Non-sequential fractional ultrapulsed CO2 laser resurfacing (ActiveFX) is considered an excellent treatment modality for photodamaged Chinese facial skin.