Clothing Pattern Research Articles

3D pattern development of tight-fitting dress for an asymmetrical female manikin

Tight-fitting clothing pattern reflecting the accurate information of the 3D body shape has been one of the challenges for garment industry especially for those who have an abnormal body shape. The objective of the paper is to develop the process of making a final 2D pattern from 3D scanned surface with minimum errors that fit tightly to an asymmetrical female manikin and secondly, to verify the proposed pattern development process from the free drawn design line on the specific 3D body. On the continuum of the previous methodology which provided the precise flattening algorithm on the local 3D surface, total pattern making process was investigated step by step. Final 2D pattern was constructed using non-extensible fabric and the accuracy of the pattern was investigated by shell-shell deviation of original 3D nude and clothed image. Area of each pattern block and corresponding 3D surface block was compared, and the detailed view of the triangle arrangements for the final pattern examined, confirming the topology of the concave and convex surface reflected correctly in the pattern. As results, the accuracy of the tight-fit dress pattern was satisfactory even for the asymmetrical female manikin with prominent curvature.

Interactive virtual try-on clothing design systems

Clothing computer design systems include three integrated parts: garment pattern design in 2D/3D, virtual try-on and realistic clothing simulation. Some important results have been obtained in pattern design and clothing simulation since the 1980s. However, in the area of virtual try-on, only limited methods have been proposed which are applicable to some defined garment styles or under restrictive sewing assumptions. This paper presents a series of new techniques from virtually sewing up complex garment patterns on human models to visualizing design effects through physical-based real-time simulation. We first employ an hierarchy of ellipsoids to approximate human models in which the bounding ellipsoids are optimized recursively. We also present a new scheme for including contact friction and resolving collisions. Four types of user interactive operation are introduced to manipulate cloth patterns for pre-positioning, virtual sewing and later obtaining cloth simulation. In the cloth simulation, we propose a simplified cloth dynamic model and an integration scheme to realize a high quality real-time cloth simulation. We demonstrate the robustness of our proposed systems by complex garment style virtual try-on and cloth simulation.

Designing plush toys with a computer

We introduce Plushie, an interactive system that allows nonprofessional users to design their own original plush toys. To design a plush toy, one needs to construct an appropriate two-dimensional (2D) pattern. However, it is difficult for nonprofessional users to appropriately design a 2D pattern. Some recent systems automatically generate a 2D pattern for a given three-dimensional (3D) model, but constructing a 3D model is itself a challenge. Furthermore, an arbitrary 3D model cannot necessarily be realized as a real plush toy, and the final sewn result can be very different from the original 3D model. We avoid this mismatch by constructing appropriate 2D patterns and applying simple physical simulation to it on the fly during 3D modeling. In this way, the model on the screen is always a good approximation of the final sewn result, which makes the design process much more efficient. We use a sketching interface for 3D modeling and also provide various editing operations tailored for plush-toy design. Internally, the system constructs a 2D cloth pattern in such a way that the simulation result matches the user's input stroke. We successfully demonstrated that nonprofessional users could design plush toys or balloon easily using Plushie.

Surface pattern comparison among lateral body types flattening 3D figure data

This paper suggests basic information for the improvement of the fit of cloth patterns by lateral body type by comparing the surface patterns of the upper lateral body. The surface patterns were created by projecting three-dimensional figure data onto flattened patterns with a purpose-built software, Patternmaker2008. The resulting surface patterns were compared to explain the differences among lateral body types. Depending on the upper lateral body type, there were significant differences in the parameters related to neck width, lateral neck height, shoulder-dart angle, shoulder angle, back-center angle, and waist-dart ratio. These surface pattern parameters can provide a quantitative basis for the use of lateral shape features in the production of garment patterns and the improvement of upper lateral shape fit.

The development of an intelligent system for customized clothing making

This study presents the development of an intelligent system for customized clothing making. The system involves body dimension collection, clothing pattern generation and fabric cutting. First, body dimensions can be collected by analyzing the 3D scanning images or 2D photographs. Further, the clothing patterns can be generated by using computer-aided design (CAD) techniques based on the collected dimensions. By presenting the generated clothing patterns in DXF (Drawing Exchange Format), the CNC laser-cutting machine can then cut the fabric into pattern pieces automatically. Finally, by integrating the system with the processes of garment sewing, fitting test and final adjustment, the concept of customized clothing making can be realized. It can not only assure good fitness of the customized clothing but also reduce human efforts, costs, and production time.

Design and Study of Clothing Structure for People with Limb Disabilities

The human body's features are the key to design clothing structure. Between people with physical disabilities and normal people, there are evident differences in their living requirements. Embellishment is needed because of physical distortion; as well as, functionalized design is strongly required to allow more independence in dressing and more self sufficiency in daily activities. Therefore, pattern design should encourage the health recovery, improve living style, and realize personal expectations. The final aim is to allow people with a disability a life of self-respect and facility, and enable them to mingle with family and society to a greater extent. In the past, there had been some clothing designed for people with disabilities. However most of those designs lack aesthetic consideration, and usually focus on the excessively direct aspect of function. Based on the characteristics of human body and movements, particularity for people with limb disabilities, the clothing pattern was analysed by means of real examples. Combining the knowledge of human engineering (ergonomics), textile materials and apparel technology, special modifications were designed in the garment to de-emphasize visual evidence of a person's disability, and strengthen function and convenience to meet the needs of body activities. Clothing designed for disabled people should contain elements of both function and beauty, which can help them rise to the convenient, beautiful and functional level from the inconvenient, concealment level. As a result, improvement in the quality of life of people with limb disabilities will be achieved.

20대 전반 여성의 체형분류에 관한 연구

초록·키워드 목차 오류제보하기 The purpose of this study was to analyze the somatotypes of women in the early 20's, which were likely to deform due to bad posture in growth period. Accordingly, bodies of women aged 20 to 24, whose growth stopped, were measured directly and indirectly, and factors related to body shapes were extracted, body shapes were categorized based on the data, and the characteristics of each body shape were analyzed. As a result, 10 factors related to body shapes were extracted in the factor analysis, and body shapes were categorized into 6 types. Type 1 was the volume of body that was big and the longest; and the general frame was large. The straight body shape with small back protrusion; the shoulder is relatively thick and the width of the shoulder was normal. Type 2 was the volume of body that was the biggest and the upper body was the longest; the general frame was of average height. The forward body shape with the back flat; the shoulder was very thick, wide, and serious leaning forward. Type 3 was a body that was thin and the shortest. The sway-back body shape with big curvature at the back; the shoulder was thin, narrow, and straight. Type 4 was a body that was short stature, and the general frame was of average build. The forward body shape with the most serious back protrusion; the shoulder was normally thick, narrow, and straight. Type 5 was a group with small body, and the lower body and general frame are long. The sway-back body shape with protrusion at the upper shoulder and the sides leaning backward; the shoulder was thin, wide, and leaning forward. Type 6 was a thin and short body; and the general frame was small. The lean-back body shape with the smallest back protrusion and leaning backward; the shoulder was thin, narrow, and leaning backward. Characteristics of the classified body shapes can be used in producing ready-made clothes, and it is hoped that there will be follow-up studies on clothing pattern design and production based on this result. #Shoulder #Back #Type of body shape ABSTRACT1. 서론2. 연구 방법 및 절차3. 연구결과 및 고찰4. 결론참고 문헌저자 소개

근육형 남성의 체형특성에 관한 연구

This study aims at analyzing the characteristics of muscular men's somatotype to develop their clothing pattern. The body sizes of 168 men categorized as the muscular type according to the Somatotype Classification by Sheldon and Heath-Carter, were compared with the 5th Korean body size measurement (KBSM) conducted by SizeKorea in 2003, to analyze the characteristics of muscular men's somatotype. The results are as follows: 1. Compared to the 5th KBSM, the subject's body size is higher in the Chest, Upper Arm, Calf, Hip, and Thigh Circumference, and Thigh Thickness, and Waist Back and Biacromion Length, but lower in the Waist Circumference. 2. The subject group shows the characteristics of a wedge-shaped somatotype which has a broad chest and a slim waist, and of having a back more developed, longer and more curved, compared to the non-muscular men. 3. The study shows the subject group has the characteristics of both the wedged somatotype with wide chest and slim waist, and the X somatotype with projected hips and thighs.

인체모델과 3차원 일러스트레이션을 이용한 의복패턴개발

A prototype of 3D clothing design system with a direct pattern development function was suggested, reflecting intuitive design functions and design modifications while considering the fit of clothing patterns with the 3D human body in the virtual 3D space. The research method was as follows. Clothing models were created using a 3D design tool, 3ds max on the surface of 3D human body model made by scanning an actual human body. 3D illustrations were completed by revising the fit and sizing of the human body and clothing models. 2D T-shirt pattern was produced 3D illustrations using from a 3D scanning data modeling solution RapidForm 2004, a 2D conversion program for 3D data called 2C-AN, and Yuka CAD. As a result, the following conclusions were made. The fit of the clothing and human body can be adjusted by reflecting individual body figure characteristics and 3D illustrations over the actual 3D body model. Furthermore, intuitive design support functions were intensified overcoming the weak point of existing 3D clothing design system by developing the direct clothing design in the virtual 3D space. 3D illustration design modifications can be directly reflected on clothing patterns from 3D illustrations by 3D clothing design system developed in this study.

Made‐to‐measure pattern development based on 3D whole body scans

PurposeNew techniques are required to link 3D whole body scans to manufacturing techniques to allow for the mass‐customization of clothes. This study aims to compare two methods of producing skirts based on 3D whole body scans.Design/methodology/approachThree females participated in the study. They were scanned with an accurate 3D whole body scanner. A set of relevant 1D measures was automatically derived from the 3D scan. The measures were incorporated in a skirt pattern and the skirt was made from jeans material. The second method was based on triangulation of the scanned waist‐to‐hip part. The points in the 3D scan were first converted to triangles and these triangles were thereafter merged with neighboring triangles of similar orientation until about 40 triangles remained. These triangles were sewn together to form a “patchwork”‐skirt. All females performed fit tests afterwards.FindingsThe fit of the 3D‐generated patchwork skirt was much better than the fit of the skirt generated by the 1D scan‐derived measures. In the latter case, two of the three skirts were too wide because the scan‐derived hip circumference exceeded the manually derived values. For the 3D generated skirt, it was necessary to enlarge the triangles with a factor of 1.025 to achieve optimal fit.Originality/valueAs far as is known, this is the first study that reports a direct conversion of a 3D scan to clothing without interference of clothing patterns. The study shows that it is possible to generate a fitting patchwork skirt based on 3D scans; the intermediate step of using 1D measures derived from 3D scans is shown to be error‐prone.

Development of Traditional Cultural Products Using Persimmon Dyeing

This study purposed to restructure representative traditional patterns formatively, manufacture actual cultural products with traditional dyeing technique using persimmon, and commercialize the results of the research. Traditionally in Korea, the dying of natural fiber such as cotton, flax and silk with persimmon was called Galmul dyeing, and clothes made through Galmul dyeing were called Galot. Galot was very useful because it is strong, does not pick up dirt easily, dries easily, and is cool in summer. In addition, cloth dyed with persimmon becomes stiff, so it does not need to be starched or ironed after washing. Moreover, it does not transmit heat under direct rays and is highly air-permeable, so it is cool and useful for standing the heat. In this study, we used traditional persimmon dyeing technique, printing traditional patterns fit for contemporary people's aesthetic sense not through dip-dying but through printing. When persimmon dyeing is used in expressing patterns, it produces not only visual effect but also embossing effect due to the characteristic of persimmon that makes printed patterns stiff, so we can obtain unique texture distinguished from other printing methods. We chose seven motive patterns, which were lotus pattern symbolizing eternal life, peony pattern symbolizing wealth and rank and prosperity, character Su(壽) pattern widely used as a symbol of health, bird and cloud pattern in the Goryeo Dynasty, Sahapyeoeuisohwa(四合如意小花) pattern printed on brocade in the Goryeo Dynasty, lattice pattern, cloth pattern on wall paintings from the Period of the Three Kingdoms. From each pattern chosen as a motive was extracted unit patterns and the original pattern was restored using Adobe Illustrator. Restored patterns were restructured to be applied to cultural products fit for contemporary formative sense. Fabrics used in dyeing were cotton, linen, ramie, silk, and polyester. Although the same persimmon dyeing was applied, we produced different feelings of patterns using various fabrics and in some cases gold and silver powder was added for the effect of gloss in addition to the embossing of patterns. Using printed fabrics we manufactured tea pads, place mats, cushions, wrapping cloth for gifts, wallet, lampshades.

Globalization and free trade

This is a first-stop resource on the expansion of global trade.Globalization is a popular buzzword these days, yet it means very different things to different people. In today's globalized economy, an article of clothing is likely made in several different countries. For example, the raw material, such as cotton or wool, is produced in one country. Then the raw material may be shipped to a second country where it is woven into cloth. The woven fabric may then be sent to a third country where it is cut to a clothing pattern. The cut pieces are often shipped to yet a fourth country to be sewn together and assembled into an article of clothing. Only then is the final product put on the market for sale.Globalization and Free Trade outlines the history of the expansion and globalization of national economies and explains how globalization evolved to its present state. This informative volume reviews current issues surrounding globalization, and presents case studies on several countries - including the United States, East Asia, Brazil, Russia, and China - to illustrate both the promise and the problems inherent in today's globalized markets.

Plushie

We introduce Plushie, an interactive system that allows nonprofessional users to design their own original plush toys. To design a plush toy, one needs to construct an appropriate two-dimensional (2D) pattern. However, it is difficult for non-professional users to appropriately design a 2D pattern. Some recent systems automatically generate a 2D pattern for a given three-dimensional (3D) model, but constructing a 3D model is itself a challenge. Furthermore, an arbitrary 3D model cannot necessarily be realized as a real plush toy, and the final sewn result can be very different from the original 3D model. We avoid this mismatch by constructing appropriate 2D patterns and applying simple physical simulation to it on the fly during 3D modeling. In this way, the model on the screen is always a good approximation of the final sewn result, which makes the design process much more efficient. We use a sketching interface for 3D modeling and also provide various editing operations tailored for plush toy design. Internally, the system constructs a 2D cloth pattern in such a way that the simulation result matches the user's input stroke. Our goal is to show that relatively simple algorithms can provide fast, satisfactory results to the user whereas the pursuit of optimal layout and simulation accuracy lies outside this paper's scope. We successfully demonstrated that non-professional users could design plush toys or balloon easily using Plushie.

중년 여성의 체형에 따른 의복 태도

Middle age is the time of the most important meaning in life and also the time of physical and mental change, which offers new social activities for self-development. Middle-aged women form the major consumer class in current clothing industry, but few have been performed on this so far. The researcher studied in many aspect on the clothes which middle-aged women need to wear during this period of change. Thus this study is executed to examine what benefits middle-aged women pursue in clothing attitudes and the relationship among clothing pursuit benefit and their somatotype compensation and image orientation. The research performed the theoretical study and practical study simultaneously. The subjects are 238 middle-aged women between 35 and 49 years old in September, 2004. The results of this study are as follows: 1. The attitude of women's clothing patterns in relation with image consist of two factor structures. One is the body image and the other is the appearance image. 2. As a result of researching the attitude for choosing clothes of each body group by Rohrer index, the women with gross body group take a top priority for the lower-body compensation, while the women with slim body group take a top priority for volume compensation. 3. As a result of researching the cognitive somatotype group's attitude for choosing clothes, gross body group takes a top priority for lower-body compensation and upper-body compensation. 4. As a result of researching the relationship between real somatotype and cognitive somatotype by Rohrer index, middle-aged women think of themselves as being fatter than present state. And choosing the clothes, the body misunderstanding group of women usually show that they consider more compensation than the normally body understanding group. 5. The evaluation on real somatotype, cognitive somatotype, ideal somatotype influences on the body cathexis.

Cold or hot wash: Technological choices, cultural change, and their impact on clothes-washing energy use in China

Usage pattern of clothes washing (and clothes washers) are strongly related to local cultural practices. Such practices have led to the development of distinctive clothes-washing technologies in the US, Europe, and Japan. In emerging markets such as China, several types of technologies often co-exist. Some use less energy but more water (the impeller type), and some use more energy but less water (the horizontal axis type). The competition between different technologies is thought to lead to better consumer choices. However, it could also lead to changes in clothes-washing habits—from cold to hot wash, and therefore to much higher energy use. This paper examines the standard development process in China to illustrate that adoption of foreign technologies and technical standards, if not carefully calibrated to the local cultural practices, could have unintended consequences for energy use and environment.

Small-angle neutron scattering study of activated carbon cloth and ammonium persulfate-modified activated carbon cloth: Effect of oxygen content

Small-angle neutron scattering (SANS) patterns of as-received, oxidized, and thermally reduced FM1/250 activated carbon cloth (ACC) samples are compared to determine the effects of surface chemistry on scattering. Porosity analyses show minimal effect on pore size distribution from oxidation, but an increase in micropore volume on heat treatment. SANS suggests an increase in localized order within the treated samples when compared with graphite cloth patterns. The ACC exhibits Porod scattering at q-ranges<0.3 nm −1; the graphite cloth exhibits the same at q-ranges>1.0 nm −1. A cylindrical model reproduces the scattering patterns in the micropore equivalent dimensions, q>0.5 nm −1.

Fragrance allergy: assessing the risk from washed fabrics

The prevalence of contact allergy to fragrance ingredients increased during the last part of the 20th century with the consequence that a substantial number of individuals are at risk of experiencing allergic contact dermatitis (ACD) if they have a sufficient degree of skin exposure to the chemical to which they have become sensitized. Such exposure does not necessarily have to arise from the type of source that originally induced the sensitization. A number of sources of exposure are clearly associated with risk of elicitation of ACD, but the role of fragrance deposited on fabrics, for example as a result of laundry processes, also can be questioned. In this article, firstly, the risk of the induction of fragrance-related ACD from exposure to fragrance via fabric is considered. Using a quantitative risk-assessment approach, the risk appears to be extremely low. The possibility that fragrance residues on laundered fabrics might elicit reactions in those already sensitized by a different route is also discussed. Clinically, clothing pattern dermatitis associated with fragrance allergy is almost never observed, although this could be investigated clinically by exposing sensitized individuals to the relevant fragrance allergen.

3D quantification of microclimate volume in layered clothing for the prediction of clothing insulation

Garment fit and resultant air volume is a crucial factor in thermal insulation, and yet, it has been difficult to quantify the air volume of clothing microclimate and relate it to the thermal insulation value just using the information on the size of clothing pattern without actual 3D volume measurement in wear condition. As earlier methods for the computation of air volume in clothing microclimate, vacuum over suit and circumference model have been used. However, these methods have inevitable disadvantages in terms of cost or accuracy due to the limitations of measurement equipments. In this paper, the phase-shifting moiré topography was introduced as one of the 3D scanning tools to measure the air volume of clothing microclimate quantitatively. The purpose of this research is to adopt a non-contact image scanning technology, phase-shifting moiré topography, to ascertain relationship between air volume and insulation value of layered clothing systems in wear situations where the 2D fabric creates new conditions in 3D spaces. The insulation of vests over shirts as a layered clothing system was measured with a thermal manikin in the environmental condition of 20 °C, 65% RH and air velocity of 0.79 m/s. As the pattern size increased, the insulation of the clothing system was increased. But beyond a certain limit, the insulation started to decrease due to convection and ventilation, which is more apparent when only the vest was worn over the torso of manikin. The relationship between clothing air volume and insulation was difficult to predict with a single vest due to the extreme openings which induced active ventilation. But when the vest was worn over the shirt, the effects of thickness of the fabrics on insulations were less pronounced compared with that of air volume. In conclusion, phase-shifting moiré topography was one of the efficient and accurate ways of quantifying air volume and its distribution across the clothing microclimate. It is also noted that air volume becomes more crucial factor in predicting thermal insulation when clothing is layered.

3D pattern construction and its application to tight-fitting garments for comfortable pressure sensation

Tight-fitting clothing pattern reflecting the accurate information of the 3D body shape has been one of the challenges for garment industry, however, fitting problems still exist. The objectives of the paper is to develop a 2D pattern which fits tightly to the 3D human scan data for sports suits that need comfort and function for maximum performance. In this study, the user graphic interface application software for the semi-automatic garment pattern generation has been implemented using the triangle simplification scheme together with 2D projections of free-falling of 3D surface polygons keeping the original 3D surface area preservation. A typical application of the developed pattern to the functional body suits is presented and verification of the proposed method is also provided.

The Influence of Clothing Patterns on Psychological and Physiological Responses

The Influence of Clothing Patterns on Psychological and Physiological Responses