Use Of Clothing Research Articles

‘Bridal Outfits from the Heart of Filmland’: Clothes Rationing, Wartime Film Production and Gainsborough Pictures’ Studio Hire Service

This article explores the Studio Hire Service, a wardrobe ‘pooling’ scheme set up by Gainsborough Pictures at the Shepherd’s Bush film studio following the introduction of clothes rationing in 1941. The Service enabled producers to hire rather than purchase items of clothing for use in their films, saving them money, reducing the number of new outfits required for each production and allowing clothing coupons, which film-makers were expected to use sparingly, to be spent on only the most important or unusual costumes. Vital to the production sector in wartime Britain, the Studio Hire Service also played a notable role outside the film industry, not least in that it loaned outfits – including those worn by major female stars in films such as Love Story (1944) and Waterloo Road (1945) – to women for them to use as wedding dresses. In the last years of the war and the early years of the peace, hundreds (and possibly thousands) of British brides were married wearing a film-studio dress. The contribution that costume made to contemporary enjoyment of many of Gainsborough’s most famous films has been noted by scholars; this article shows that some of these same costumes also had a significant role to play in the real-world experiences of many ordinary Britons, offering access to a glamorous bridal outfit in a period of widespread sartorial scarcity and providing a noteworthy example of the way in which the bond between the picturegoer and the cinema extends beyond the auditorium.

Examining clothing repair practices, core competences, techniques, tools and community structures involved in extending the life of garments

The rise of fast fashion as a feature of post-industrial societies has distanced people from many of the habitual practices associated with caring for and valuing clothes. This includes both acquiring and applying the skills to make and mend clothes and understanding fibres and fabrics to develop deeper connections to materials. The principles advocated by a circular economy (CE) require societies to recover these once held values and restore our relationship with materials and practices to keep clothing in use for as long as possible and to reduce consumption. Such CE practices will require our societies to align with current socio-technical developments, where people are increasingly adopting technologies (through e.g. applications, tutorials), to support making and mending practices, and to play and express themselves creatively whilst keeping apparel in use. The study aims to examine self-repair practices and repair services from practitioners’ viewpoints, evaluating available support, and identifying challenges and opportunities to integrate repair practices more widely in society. The results suggest it is critical to develop the skills to mend and customize the garments people own and provide additional support for people to become custodians of clothes. This study is part of a larger project to identify opportunities where technology could intervene in a repair process and facilitate opportunities for people to reconnect with materials and acquire repair skills. To develop this idea, we designed an interview study to investigate practices of clothing repair to determine if and where such support might be welcomed. Researchers conducted interviews with three groups of people – brands, repair practitioners and community initiatives to gather insights into repair practices, core competences, techniques, tools and community structures involved in extending the life of garments. Insights from the findings address some of the underexplored areas of a clothes repair practice across the three settings. We identify the important relationship of material knowledge to repair and the limited attention given to different types of repair tools and their application. As material skills and knowledge diminish across society it can undermine the drive to scale-up the practice of repair. Knowledge from the findings will inform further research to map the repair process and break it down into stages to identify opportunities where digital tools could intervene to help facilitate aspects of the process for people across different settings.

Vestimenta drawing in use by the Romans

The study of the Pompeii clothes, representative of the wider Roman culture, is carried out starting from the graphic analysis of the classical iconography of the MANN (National Archaeological Museum of Naples) in comparison with historiographical sources, by means of the representation of the main patterns of women's clothing in use by the Romans and their respective decorative and chromatic motifs, also in relation to the fibres of which the fabrics were made. This study, which also makes use of data obtained from the photogrammetric survey of a selected number of textile finds belonging to the "MANN Textile Collection", provides an unpublished archive of the main clothing patterns, codifying in technical drawings (paper patterns) the unconventional rules that the ancient Romans at that period used to make clothing on the basis of knowledge, practical experience and customs (dressing rituals) specific to the culture of the time. The flat development of each clothing patterns is entrusted to the geometric accuracy of the paper pattern, is proportionate to the anthropometric measurements of the woman of the Roman age (female normotype) and represented to scale.

Textile microfibers in wild Antarctic whelk Neobuccinum eatoni (Smith, 1875) from Terra Nova Bay (Ross Sea, Antarctica)

Antarctica has been affected directly and indirectly by human pressure for more than two centuries and recently plastic pollution has been recognized as a further potential threat for its unique biodiversity. Global long-range transport as well as local input from anthropogenic activities are potential sources of plastic pollution in both terrestrial and marine Antarctic territories. The present study evaluated the presence of microplastics in specimens of the Antarctic whelk Neobuccinum eatoni, a key species in benthic communities of the Ross Sea, one of the largest marine protected areas worldwide. To this aim, a thermo-oxidative extraction method was applied for microplastic isolation and quantification, and polymer identification was performed by manual μ-FTIR spectroscopy. Textile (semi-)synthetic or composite microfibers (length range: 0.8–5.7 mm) were found in 27.3% of whelk specimens, suggesting a low risk of bioaccumulation along Antarctic benthic food webs in the Ross Sea. Their polymer composition (of polyethylene terephthalate and cellulose-polyamide composites) matched those of outdoor technical clothing in use by the personnel of the Italian “Mario Zucchelli” station near Terra Nova Bay in the Ross Sea. Such findings indicate that sewage from base stations may act as potential local sources of textile microplastic fibers in this remote environment. More in-depth monitoring studies aiming at defining the extent of microplastic contamination related to such sources in Antarctica are encouraged.

(Invited) Textile-based Electronic/fluidic Platforms Towards Wearable Diagnostic Sensor Systems

The fields of flexible electronics and microfluidic-based labs-on-a-chip continue to advance, with new devices and systems-level technologies reported on a daily basis. However, much of this advancement is limited to each of these fields separately, rather than development of platforms for combining flexible electronics and microfluidics together to realize wearable sensors and sensor systems. We present new approaches for combining electronics and microfluidic devices together on wearable textile-based substrates, resulting in combined systems that are highly portable, mechanically flexible, and can be easily integrated with clothing. We develop polymer materials traditionally used for artistic designs on clothing for use as engineering materials, i.e., as the base polymer for conductive electronics that can be integrated with polymer microfluidic channels printed in the same materials. Unlike other techniques, our technologies and materials are highly compatible with clothing-based textiles, and result in non-polarizable electrodes for improved frequency response. Our platforms can be laundered, facilitating rugged wearable devices and systems for biomedical and environmental monitoring. Application areas for our flexible and wearable platforms include health care, worker safety, food safety, consumer devices, personalized medicine and biomedical and environmental monitoring. We present technologies for specific applications that include: lighting and health monitors for safety vests; heart and perspiration (pH, lactate) monitors for athletic clothing; and wearable bioelectric and biochemical monitoring.

In situ crosslinking of mechanically robust waterproof and moisture permeable cellulose diacetate nanofiber aerogels for warm clothing

In the present study, an ultralight, super-flexible, waterproof, and breathable aerogel with low thermal conductivity is produced by crosslinking hybrid nanofibers of cellulose diacetate (CA) with an aqueous blocked isocyanate crosslinker (BIC) in situ. The mechanical properties of the hybrid nanofiber aerogel (HNFA) can be tuned by adjusting the BIC/CA ratio while retaining its thermal conductivity (27.2–28.4 mW·m−1·K−1) and porosity (99.25%–99.36%). The HNFA has super-elastic at ultralow temperatures (−196 °C), good compressive fatigue resistance, outstanding bending resistance (it is capable of withstanding 20,000 bending cycles), favorable breathability, and water resistance (contact angle: 162°). Therefore, it is a promising material for warm clothing for use in extreme environments.

The design of flower-like C–MnO2 nanosheets on carbon cloth toward high-performance flexible zinc-ion batteries

We employed a mussel-derived polydopamine layer as an inductive catalyst to prompt the growth of flower-like δ-MnO2 on carbon cloth for use in zinc ion batteries.

Исследования боевой одежды пожарного, предназначенной для эксплуатации в условиях Крайнего Севера и Арктической зоны

Methodological base was developed for assessing the quality of firefighter - saviour combat clothing for use in the Arctic zone. It consists of a mathematical model for calculating the thermal state of special combat clothing in the «man — firefighter’s combat clothing — working environment» system and a chamber climate test methodology with the participation of testers-volunteers. The results of some calculations of the firefighter’s combat clothing thermodynamic state under the climatic factors exposure (negative values of the ambient temperature, wind load), and the fire thermal factors exposure are presented. Calculations were made based on the time and tasks performed, on the basis of actual working conditions of the firefighter. According to the calculation results we can conclude that in the considered range of variation of the environmental parameters of the working environment in the climatic conditions of the Arctic zone, the time of protective action of a multilayer stack of materials and tissues of the firefighter’s combat clothing is determined by the time of reaching of the skin surface limit temperature cooling in the region of the unheated structural elements. In this case the heat flux is not a determining factor. Verification of the model is carried out by comparing the results of experimental measurements and data obtained by calculation. The climate chamber test methodology includes registration in the process of tests of the firefighter’s combat clothing under-suit space thermodynamic parameters and the tester physiological parameters using both special sensors and displaying the results on a computer multiplier in real time mode. In addition, a visual assessment of the firefighter’s combat clothing technical condition at the end of the tests is carried out. Based on the results of the performed studies of the specific firefighter’s combat clothing samples it can be concluded that the developed methodological base allows to perform the objective assessment of the Arctic version of the firefighter’s combat clothing according to the application indicators that determine the quality of the product, and can be used to assess the quality of other personal protective equipment of a firefighter.

Ultrathin porous NiMnO3 nanosheets on carbon cloth for use as supercapacitor electrode

NiMnO3 nanosheets with high specific capacitance were fabricated on carbon cloth (CC) substrates using a facile hydrothermal method. The composition, morphology, and structure of the products were characterized using x-ray diffraction, scanning electron microscopy, and transmission electron microscopy. In addition, cyclic voltammetry and constant current charge–discharge tests revealed that NiMnO3@CC electrodes presented excellent capacitive properties, and the specific capacitance reached 2330 F/g at the current density of 1 A/g. Moreover, after 1000 charge–discharge cycles at the current density of 10 A/g, the composites still maintained 67.8% of their initial capacity. Our results indicated that the NiMnO3@CC electrodes presented good electrochemical properties with potential application in the energy storage field.

Compromise of Personal Protective Clothing from Liquid Exposure.

Following critiques of multiple personal contamination events from entries into the Oak Ridge National Laboratory's Spallation Neutron Source Transfer Bay, it was considered that the most likely causes for contamination were personal protective clothing doffing errors or moisture (sweat) allowing contamination to wick through the protective clothing. Radiological protection staff looked more closely, however, at the specific area of the clothing where contamination was highest; under enhanced lighting and photochromic manipulation, there appeared to have been some type of moisture in the area. Recognizing the possibility that moisture may have allowed for migration of contamination through the clothing, further experiments were undertaken to determine under which conditions this transport might have occurred. The objective for this work was to identify the susceptibility of different types of personal protective clothing to various liquids encountered in the workplace. Several tests were performed to determine if perspiration had enabled migration of contamination and to identify what other liquids might have affected contamination transport. Two layers of personal protective clothing were subjected to static conditions and dynamic conditions to include active rubbing of the materials while wet. Food dye added to each of the liquids tested enabled visual indications of liquid breakthrough. Additional tests were conducted to see if solid contamination could be transported through the materials along with the liquids. All but one type of non-rubberized personal protective clothing in use at Oak Ridge National Laboratory were permanently compromised to some extent by the solvents used for decontamination. It was determined that most common cleaning agents immediately and permanently destroyed the hydrophobic nature of several of the tested protective clothing materials, potentially allowing for radioactive contamination to penetrate through the material to the worker. Work around wet surfaces or performing wet decontamination will only be performed in protective clothing known to prevent transport of the wetting agent.

Should the fashion industry confront the sustainability challenge with 3D prototyping technology

In this paper, coming out of a broader research project on how the digital prototype can be effectively integrated in the product development process of the clothing industry, the authors investigate the relationship between Corporate Social Responsibility (CSR) and Collective Actions on Sustainability and the environmental impact of the new model of fast and accelerating fashion. Extensive research was contacted with personal interviews and analysed primary data shows how new technology solutions like Product Lifecycle Management (PLM), 3D visualisation or 3D prototyping can work with and across supply chain partners to reduce the environmental footprint of their processes. The final phase of the paper involves the conceptualisation of a new apparel product development model, encompassing various digital tools which aim at addressing fit problems, extending the useful life of clothes and reducing the environmental impact of clothing in use through design and services.

The Crowns of Stuzo Clothing

The Crowns of Stuzo Clothing

Electroless Deposition of Sn on Carbon Cloth for Use As Anodes in Lithium Ion Batteries

Graphite (372 mAh/g) powder is currently used as Li-battery anode material but urgent need exists to replace it with materials with higher capacity, energy and power density. Investigation of Sn (991mAh/g) as an alternative to graphite has been explored through many approaches which has not been able to address the large volume expansion (fabrication related) and performance limitations associated with Sn during cycling1,2. In this work, by using electroless deposition method, we demonstrate that a new approach of fabricating high performing Cu-Sn alloy for lithium battery anode with high capacity, power density and long cycle life is feasible. In our approach, Cu was electrolessly deposited on carbon cloth followed by immersion of the Cu-plated cloth in a Sn bath for partial displacement of the Cu and subsequent formation of Cu-Sn alloy. The use of a woven fabric as a substrate provides pathways for flow of electrons while its pores accommodate the expansion of tin with minimal performance loss. Our electroless approach is also applicable for graphite particles. The Cu-Sn alloy deposited on carbon over various times was used in Coin cell with Li metal as counter electrode. The open circuit voltage of freshly fabricated cell varied from 2.02V (for pristine carbon cloth) to 3V (for Cu-Sn plated carbon cloth). First cycle specific discharge capacity from open circuit voltage to 0.007V for our new electrodes varied between 561 mAh/g to 656 mAh/g based on the mass of Cu-Sn deposited on the cloth. The results of the cell’s performance evaluation as a function of Sn Cu displacement time will be presented. Figure 1

Hierarchical Co(OH)2nanotube arrays grown on carbon cloth for use in non-enzymatic glucose sensing

Hierarchical Co(OH)2nanotube arrays grown on carbon cloth (Co(OH)2NTAs/CC) were prepared and utilized as a 3D binder-free electrode for non-enzymatic glucose sensing with high efficiency.

Influence of washing/drying cycles on fundamental properties of metal fiber-containing fabrics designed for electromagnetic shielding purposes

The development of lightweight flexible materials for electromagnetic interference shielding has received increased attention in recent years, particularly for clothing or technical applications and especially in areas of aircraft, aerospace, automobiles and flexible electronics, such as portable electronics and wearable devices. There are many references in the literature concerning the development and investigation of electromagnetic shielding lightweight flexible materials, especially those that are textile based with different electrically conductive additives. However, little attention has been paid to the problems related to the performance of developed electromagnetic shielding materials for clothing in use, above all wet processing (washing and drying). The main aim of this paper is a description of the influence of washing/drying cycles on the fundamental properties of metal fiber-containing fabrics. Changes in electromagnetic shielding ability and electric conductivity after washing/drying cycles were studied and also other characteristics, such as pilling, changes in mass per unit area and thickness of conductive fabrics, were evaluated. For the purpose of this study, fabrics with different structures (knitted, woven) containing extremely thin stainless steel staple fibers incorporated to the yarn structure as the conductive filler were chosen. For quantification of the influence of the washing/drying cycles on the above-mentioned characteristics, regression methods and simple t-tests were used. Both knitted and woven fabrics withstood satisfactory repeated application of wet processing with respect to the main requirement – electromagnetic shielding ability; in addition, woven fabrics exceeded in higher electrical conductivity, higher shielding effectiveness and lower inclination to pilling and therefore can be used for the production of protective cloth.

NILAI ESTETIKA TARI DAMPENG PADA MASYARAKAT MUARA PEA DESA BUKIT HARAPAN KABUPATEN ACEH SINGKIL

Dampeng dance is a dance that tumbuhdanberkembang in Aceh Singkil. Dampengcustomary sudahpadatahun inimerupakantarian 1986. The purpose of this study isto discuss the dampeng dance from the perspective of aesthetic value.The theory used in this research is the aesthetic theory of Dhrasono whichcontains about: motion, fashion poetry and music. This theory is a reference tostrip existing problems in Dampeng dance.When the study to discuss Dampeng dance performed during the three months,from mid-December 2015 to February 2016. The research in the village of BukitHarapan. Subdistrict Gunung Meriah. The population is two persons namelyspeakers and artists, who know about the culture Singkil. Samples are numberedtwo people are a resource and artists in the district of Aceh Singkil.Teknik datacollection include observation, interviews, literature study and documentation.Dampeng aesthetics of the dance are the motions of martial that have governancerules, the satisfaction score and the value of togetherness for the people of AcehSingkil. Having yangtinggi excellent value for people who feel that the danceSingkil Dampeng is partly art and cultural preservation is still there and is stillknown to the public sampek Aceh Singkil. Dance dampeng also has aesthetic infashion is clothing with the colors of firm and soft, the color of clothing also hascharacter. It's all evidence of their love of their culture. Of these colors Singkilcommunity admire and maintain Dampeng dance clothing for use by generationsto always be worn when dancing.

Wall-like hierarchical metal oxide nanosheet arrays grown on carbon cloth for excellent supercapacitor electrodes.

Recently, considerable efforts have been made to satisfy the future requirements of electrochemical energy storage using novel functional electrode materials. Binary transition metal oxides (BTMOs) possess multiple oxidation states that enable multiple redox reactions, showing higher supercapacitive properties than single component metal oxides. In this work, a facile hydrothermal method is provided for the synthesis of wall-like hierarchical metal oxide MMoO4 (M = Ni, Co) nanosheet arrays, which are directly grown on flexible carbon cloth for use as advanced binder-free electrodes for supercapacitors. By virtue of their intriguing structure, the resulted active material nanosheets with a high specific surface area can provide a large electroactive region, which could facilitate easy accession of electrolyte ions and fast charge transport, resulting in an enhanced electrochemical performance. Separately, the as-synthesized MMoO4 (M = Ni, Co) samples have exhibited superior specific capacitances (1483 F g(-1) of NiMoO4 and 452 F g(-1) of CoMoO4 at a current density of 2 A g(-1)), as well as excellent cycling stability (93.1% capacitance retention of NiMoO4 and 95.9% capacitance retention of CoMoO4 after 2000 cycles). The results show that the binder-free electrodes constructed by deposition of MMoO4 (M = Ni, Co) nanosheets on carbon cloth are promising candidates for the application of supercapacitors.

Surface modified carbon cloth for use in electrochemical capacitor

The paper reports enhanced power densities for electrochemical capacitor through grafting carbon nanotubes (CNTs) onto the surface of activated carbon cloth (ACC). The surface-modified ACCs were first examined for their material properties and then evaluated for their electrode performance such as capacitance, equivalent series resistance, energy density, and power density. Improved electrochemical performance was obtained due to the surface modification by CNTs. In particular, the CNTs lower the contact resistance and therefore increase the power density of the electrochemical capacitor. Furthermore, we show that through such a surface modification, the specific capacitance can be increased from 108 to 117F/g, i.e., an 8.3% increase, the energy density can be increased from 16.7 to 17.64Wh/kg, i.e., a 5.4% increase, or the power density can be increased from 4.8 to 11.3kW/kg, i.e., a 135% increase. To our best knowledge, the energy density and power density of a electrochemical capacitor having CNT-grafted ACC electrode have not been reported. Also, a 70% retention at a scan rate of 500mVs−1 and a long cycle life of 20,000 cycles at a scan rate of 200mVs−1 are demonstrated.

Procedures to Evaluate the Efficiency of Protective Clothing Worn by Operators Applying Pesticide

The evaluation of the efficiency of whole-body protective clothing against pesticides has already been carried out through field tests and procedures defined by international standards, but there is a need to determine the useful life of these garments to ensure worker safety. The aim of this article is to compare the procedures for evaluating efficiency of two whole-body protective garments, both new and previously used by applicators of herbicides, using a laboratory test with a mannequin and in the field with the operator. The evaluation of the efficiency of protective clothing used both quantitative and qualitative methodologies, leading to a proposal for classification according to efficiency, and determination of the useful life of protective clothing for use against pesticides, based on a quantitative assessment. The procedures used were in accordance with the standards of the modified American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM) F 1359:2007 and International Organization for Standardization 17491-4. The protocol used in the field was World Health Organization Vector Biology and Control (VBC)/82.1. Clothing tested was personal water repellent and pesticide protective. Two varieties of fabric were tested: Beige (100% cotton) and Camouflaged (31% polyester and 69% cotton). The efficiency in exposure control of the personal protective clothing was measured before use and after 5, 10, 20, and 30 uses and washes under field conditions. Personal protective clothing was worn by workers in the field during the application of the herbicide glyphosate on weed species in mature sugar cane plantations using a knapsack sprayer. The modified ASTM 1359:2007 procedure was chosen as the most appropriate due to its greater repeatability (lower coefficient of variation). This procedure provides quantitative evaluation needed to determine the efficiency and useful life of individual protective clothing, not just at specific points of failure, but according to dermal protection as a whole. The qualitative assessment, which is suitable for verification of garment design and stitching flaws, does not aid in determining useful life, but does complement the quantitative evaluation. The proposed classification is appropriate and accurate for determining the useful life of personal protective clothing against pesticide materials relative to number of uses and washes after each use. For example, the Beige garment had a useful life of 30 uses and washes, while the Camouflaged garment had a useful life of 5 uses and washes. The quantitative evaluation aids in determining the efficiency and useful life of individual protective clothing according to dermal protection as a whole, not just at specific points of failure.

Multilayers Films of Platinum Nanoparticles-Dopamine and Multi-Wall Nanotubes on Carbon Cloth for use in Fuel Cell Construction.

not Available.