INTHE NINETEENTH CENTURY Vienna was known as a city of pleasure. A Frenchman, Victor Tissot, writing in 1881, found it characterised by (a fever of work and pleasure, above all pleasure. Doctors there have never thought to cure it. It is the sickness which keeps them alive.'l He quoted approvingly a diplomatic messenger who stated that leaving Berlin for Vienna was like leaving a stable to enter a drawing room.2 Stefan Zweig later recalled: (It was wonderful to live here ... it was a simple matter to enjoy life. Vienna was, we know, an epicurean city ... Making music, dancing, the theatre, conversation, proper and urbane deportment, these were cultivated here as particular arts.'3 Even during the Metternich period, visitors and inhabitants believed the same. Goethe's friend, Varnhagen von Ense, wrote in the early 1830'S: (The whole aspect of the city and its surroundings has something, rich, pleasurable and gay of heart about it. People here seem healthier and happier than elsewhere; the dark spirits which dog mankind, which harass us unremittingly, find it hard to breathe in this air, and seldom have tried to lodge here. Such an appearance has something uncommonly agreeable; it exerts a power for peace on every temperament, every humour, and promotes the feeling that thus it should be for every man among us; for everybody such an atmosphere is the right and natural one. And even if it is only an appearance, the appearance is not in vain.'4 His views were endorsed by Mrs Trollope, who, writing in 1836 of the Viennese, declared: (I certainly never saw the elements of what in most other cities would have constituted a mob, so decently clothed, so generally clean and well-to-do in appearance, and, in the midst of great gaiety and good-humour, so perfectly quiet and orderly.'5 Indeed, that most astute of all observers from England, Peter Turnbull, called them (a most happy and enjoying people',6 while Lady Londonderry agreed that (with all their apathy and slowness ... [the Austrians constitute] (a very gay, junketing nation.'7 Almost everyone agreed then that nineteenth Vienna was a happy, easygoing and gemutlich place, although it was usually remarked that the strengths of
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