Beach Characteristics Research Articles

Spatial variability of lithodynamic characteristics of the Utrish reserve beaches

Beaches are important elements of coastal systems, providing wave attenuation and protection of coastal territories. This article presents the results of a study on the spatial variability of beach deposits in the coastal zone of the State Nature Reserve "Utrish." The work utilizes both field and remote sensing data. It was established that pebble and gravel-pebble accumulative beaches prevail in the coastal zone. The current width of the beach ranges from 5 to 50 meters, with a noticeable predominance of areas less than 12 meters wide. Gravitational coastal processes have a significant impact on the supply of beach-forming material to the coastal zone of the "Utrish" reserve.

Exploring a cost-effective and straightforward mechanism for uninterrupted in situ maximum wave runup measurements.

Wave runup, the excess water level above mean sea level, has been measured using different techniques with varying degrees of precision and associated practical limitations. This critical parameter, typically included in coastal assessment studies, varies temporally and spatially and depends on variables that include beach characteristics and nearshore hydrodynamics. Access to continuous datasets, using efficient mechanisms can assist resource-limited regions, such as Caribbean small-island developing states (SIDS), in overcoming coastal resilience obstacles. Experiments were conducted at University College London (UCL) and the University of the West Indies (UWI), which were designed to explore the temporal behaviour of the water surface within the bed during runup events. The experiments encompassed linear waves impacting a static porous bed (UCL) and a moveable granular beach (UWI), with pressure sensors buried at the base of each beach. The analyses showed that the averaged values of the time-varying water elevations within the bed, when spatially presented, produced a quadratic or cubic polynomial fit, where the curves' stationary points were accurate indicators of the location of the maximum runup position at the surface of the bed. In this way, an arrangement of buried pressure sensors can be used as an efficient means to accurately produce a continuous time series of maximum runup positions.This article is part of the theme issue 'Celebrating the 15th anniversary of the Royal Society Newton International Fellowship'.

GCP Placement Methods for Improving the Accuracy of Shoreline Extraction in Coastal Video Monitoring

In coastal video monitoring, the direct linear transform (DLT) method with ground control points (GCPs) is commonly used for geo-rectification. However, current practices often overlook the impact of GCP quantity, arrangement, and the geographical characteristics of beaches. To address this, we designed scenarios at Chuam Beach to evaluate how factors such as the distance from the camera to GCPs, the number of GCPs, and the height of each point affect the DLT method. Accuracy was assessed by calculating the root mean square error of the distance errors between the actual GCP coordinates and the image coordinates for each setting. This analysis aims to propose an optimal GCP placement method. Our results show that placing GCPs within 200 m of the camera ensures high accuracy with few points, whereas positioning them at strategic heights enhances shoreline extraction. However, since only fixed cameras were used in this study, factors like varying heights, orientations, and resolutions could not be considered. Based on data from a single location, we propose an optimal method for GCP placement that takes into account distance, number, and height using the DLT method.

Regional Difference in Distribution Pattern and Morphological Characteristics of Embayed Sandy Beaches in Zhejiang Province, Eastern China

The distribution pattern and the morphology of sandy beaches have been extensively studied, while those in turbid coastal environments near large river estuaries are still unclear. This study analyzes the distribution pattern, morphological characteristics, and influencing factors of Zhejiang sandy beaches using statistical analysis, based on field data and historical records. Results show that the mean grain size distribution of Zhejiang sandy beaches ranges from fine sand to very coarse sand, and the beach slope and sediment grain size correspond well with the wave heights in the three regions of Zhejiang. The extent of beach headlands in central Zhejiang appeared the largest, suggesting an increased susceptibility to wave erosion due to the less sheltered headlands. Most sandy beaches in Zhejiang formed on the islands and the areas far from the estuaries, showing quantity difference in beach distribution. The comparison of the regional difference in Zhejiang sandy beaches shows that embayment is the main factor affecting the beach distribution pattern and morphological characteristics. The different embayment characteristics provide the space for beach formation and the interaction with the coastal process, the sediment supply, the nearshore hydrodynamic environment, and human intervention also have influence on the morphological characteristics of Zhejiang beaches.

Assessing sandy beach macrofaunal assemblages across geographically diverse morphodynamic environments

While the physical characteristics of sandy beaches play a significant role in shaping the macrofaunal community features through morphodynamics, regional environmental factors may also account for deviations from the expected patterns. Here, we assess the concurrent effects of local morphodynamic factors and regional variables, such as sea surface temperature (SST), salinity, and chlorophyll-a (chl-a), on species richness and abundance of intertidal macrofaunal assemblages in four sandy beaches located along the estuarine gradient generated by the Río de la Plata (RdlP) in the southwestern Atlantic Ocean. Species richness was higher in dissipative beaches compared to intermediate ones, consistent with the predictions of the Swash Exclusion Hypothesis. However, this trend was not observed for total abundance, which significantly increased with chl-a. Both local and regional-scale environmental factors, such as salinity and chl-a, proved to be significant predictors in the arrangement of these communities. These results further support previous findings that highlight the critical role of the estuarine gradient of the RdlP in shaping life-history traits, population structure, and abundance of the resident intertidal macrofauna at both local and regional scales. The study underscores the importance of integrating environmental factors operating at different spatial scales to decipher community patterns in these physically-controlled environments.

Sea turtle landing and distribution in aceh jaya district

The research in Aceh Jaya District identified nine turtle nesting beaches: Babah Kuala, Patek, Babah Ngom, Kuala Doe, Rigaih, Alue Piet, Nisero, Aroen Meubanja, and Seunebok Padang. Olive Ridley (Lepidochelys olivacea) and Leatherback (Dermochelys coriacea) turtles inhabit these coastal areas. Nisero beach, Kuta Tuha Village, Panga Sub-District, recorded the highest nest count (12 nests) with both Leatherback and Olive Ridley turtles. Seunebok Padang beach, Seunebok Padang Village, Teunom Sub-District, had the lowest count (2 Olive Ridley turtle nests). Aroen Meubanja beach is the only one with protected status, while the remaining eight face the threat of egg poaching. Unprotected beaches are at high risk, emphasizing the importance of conservation for sea turtle survival and the local economy, particularly through tourism development. Beyond Aceh Jaya, Indonesia features other significant sea turtle nesting sites, like Pangumbahan beach in West Java and Wairundi Island and Venu Island in West Papua Province. The study evaluates various beach characteristics, including width and slope, influencing sea turtle nesting activities. Sediment analysis reveals predominant medium sand textures in Aceh Jaya District, contributing to suitable nesting conditions and emphasizing the need for targeted conservation efforts.

From the closet to the shore: Fashion waste pollution on Colombian Central Caribbean beaches

This paper examines the environmental effects of fashion waste on the central Caribbean coast of Colombia, highlighting significant ecological issues in coastal areas. A survey of 27 beaches found 503 items of fashion waste, mainly shoes and sandals, with an average density of 0.93 items/m2. The distribution of this type of waste varies notably across different beach types, with exposed, rural, and remote beaches showing higher accumulation, indicating a relationship between beach characteristics and waste concentration. Primary sources of this waste include riverine transport, coastal tourism, and poorly managed sewage systems, impacting urban, rural, and village beaches differently. The study reveals that longshore currents and oceanic movements, significantly influence the transport and fate of this waste, with exposed beaches accumulating more fashion waste than sheltered ones. The presence of driftwood also plays a vital role in trapping fashion waste along coastlines. The findings highlight the need for effective management strategies to mitigate the impact of fashion waste, providing crucial insights for local and national coastal managers and implications for managing fashion waste in the Southern Caribbean and similar regions worldwide.

Selection of cross sections for solitary wave transmission efficient for submeged vertical porous breakwater using Flow-3D model

Climate change is causing progressively severe coastal erosion, especially in beaches and tourist areas. Vertical porous breakwaters were chosen to protect the beaches for their effectiveness in reducing waves and preventing erosion. However, submerged vertical porous breakwaters must be applied due to the characteristics of beaches that do not allow shielding. Thus, the width of the porous breakwaters should be increased, incurring construction costs. This study proposes cross-sections of submerged vertical porous breakwaters that have the same width and determines the selected cross-section in those sections that effectively meets the wave height reduction. The Flow-3D numerical model with porous structures and solitary wave boundary conditions was used to simulate 72 scenarios of the interactions between solitary waves and submerged vertical porous breakwaters. The selected cross-section is a parallel configuration, where the distance between the two breakwaters is twice the width of the first breakwater. Dimensionless graph systems defining parallel breakwater parameters according to incoming solitary waves were established.

Coastal Abrasion Disaster Threat Analysis in North Galesong District, Takalar Regency

Coastal damage due to abrasion can interfere with residents' livelihoods, especially those who work as fishermen. Beaches that experience abrasion will result in more severe beach damage if not addressed. Coastal dynamics caused by wave activity, tides, currents, and human activities cause shoreline changes. This study aims to determine the coastal abrasion disaster threat level in North Galesong District, Takalar Regency. The analytical method used is the analysis of coastal abrasion threat index data in coastal areas, including oceanographic data, namely wave height and current speed, ecological data, mangrove vegetation density, the physical environment, and the shape of the coastline and beach characteristics. Analysis of the data using the analysis table of disaster threat assessment issued by the Head of BNPB Regulation No. 2 of 2012 concerning General Guidelines for Disaster Risk Assessment. The study results have a high category of coastal erosion threat in the coastal area of Galesong Utara District, which is found in all coastal village areas. The high category level represents the high potential threat of coastal abrasion to the incidence of casualties and material losses on the coast of North Galesong District. It is necessary to build structural mitigation to maintain coastal stability in the form of longshore sedimentation retaining structures, abrasion absorbers, and, breakwater structures to reduce the rate of coastal abrasion.

Spatio-temporal evolution of the coastal shell accumulation in Villarino Peninsula, San Antonio Este, Argentina

Accumulations of mollusc shells occur frequently in modern coastal environments, including the large Holocene beach deposits at Villarino Peninsula, Argentina. The evolutive study of modern shell accumulations can be applied to predict and interpret ancient rocks formed by hardparts of mollusc shells. To study the spatio-temporal evolution of these accumulations, a mapping of the spatial boundaries using images acquired from Landsat 5™, 7E™, and 8OLI sensors in 1986, 1992, 1998, 2003, 2013, and 2020. This permitted the delimitation of the boundary between the shelly beach and the surrounding environments for each year. Eight cross-sections of the coastline were placed at geomorphologically representative locations to measure the respective displacements, and to reveal the deposition/progradation, erosion/retrogradation and stability zones. Through this study, it was possible to register the variability of the evolutionary behavior of the shells accumulation along the beach system through a period of 34 years. During this time, the sites with progradation (with a maximum value of +165.49 m) exhibit well-developed shore ridges, whereas the sites with retrogradation (with a maximum value of 53.8 m) and stability, show erosive features of escarpment and beaches with gentle ridges. The mapping of these geoindicators highlighted the coastal drift which occurs along the Villarino Peninsula in a clockwise circular pattern. The beach extensions show a more prominent progradation pattern than the retrogradational one.

Coastline Change using Time Series Satellite Images in the North Coast of Java: Study Case Indramayu Regency, West Java, Indonesia

Coastal areas have continuous change due to the interaction between sea and land, which generally causes abrasion and accretion. Indramayu Regency has a coastline of around 147 km. Indramayu Coastal has the characteristics of a sandy beach with a dominant abrasion process triggered by digging beach sand and changes in the function of mangrove land into ponds. We applied remote sensing observation to obtain coastline data on a regular basis. Currently, satellite images support the availability of Landsat data in a relatively short time and cover a wide area. Landsat imagery has been used in the last ten years to detect coastline changes in study areas based on the BILKO and Digital Shoreline Analysis System (DSAS) methods. Abrasion in 2012 – 2022 covers an area of 805.71 ha and accretion covers an area of 941.63 ha. The widest abrasion is in Pasekan with an area of 266,451 ha. The abrasion process in Pasekan is very high due to the influence of high currents and waves from the sea, and the accretion process in Cantigi is very high due to the high supply from the Cimanuk River and the many mangroves that collect sediment that enters the sea.

MODELLING OF BEACH STATE VARIABILITY

Beach morphological states evolve over different time scales in relation to waves and antecedent beach characteristics. There are various forms of beach state which include dissipative, reflective, and intermediate. The aim of this work is to develop a new empirical model that can recognize beach state variability when beaches respond to varying wave climates without having the need to use computationally expensive process-based numerical model.

Performance based assessment of a small-scale artificially nourished beach

In coastal engineering studies, coastal protection procedures can be provided by hard and soft methods. Soft methods applied using the right techniques and methods are not only long-lasting but also adapt to the natural structure of the coast. This study aims to present monitoring the development of a small-scale artificial nourished beach between the groins for 15 months and analyze its performance. For this purpose, field studies were carried out with land and sea observations taken once before nourishment and at 8 different times after nourishment. The seabed and profile variations observed at different sections were analyzed after processing field data. For determining the characteristics of the natural beach and borrow area before nourishment a sieve analysis was done for sediment samples taken from the shoreline, beach face, and 1-m depth on the nourished area. Sediment transportation of nourished material was observed by monitoring the amount of material remaining in 3 sub-regions (a nearshore region between the groins - A, a region representing the seaward end of the groins - B, and a region offshore of the groins - C) in the nourished region over time. The relationship between this behavior and waves was examined by considering the wave roses and time series of wave parameters produced as a result of wave simulations performed with the third-generation wave hindcast model SWAN. Lastly, as well as the variation of the mean layer thickness, the retreat of coastline, and mean beach width on the nourished area by the time were extracted for 8 different surveys. The results show that artificial beach nourishment materials were eroded in less than five months and the beach width returned to its initial position. The nourished material transported out groin-protected area moved eastward due to north-west dominated waves and the eastward longshore transport.

Dynamic geomorphology and storm response characteristics of the promontory-straight beach—a case of Gulei Beach, Fujian

Dynamic geomorphology and storm response characteristics of the promontory-straight beach—a case of Gulei Beach, Fujian

Urbanization driving Ocypode quadrata burrow density, depth, and width across Caribbean beaches

Globally, sandy beaches support local economies and are the most commonly-used type of coastline. This importance is perhaps most striking in the Caribbean; however, no study has assessed the morphological features of the U.S. Virgin Islands (USVI) sandy beaches or evaluated how their biodiversity is influenced by human activities. We addressed these gaps by sampling eight St. Thomas, USVI, beaches with different urbanization levels (Stumpy Bay, Santa Maria Bay, Caret Bay, Neltjeberg Bay, Lindberg Bay, Magens Bay, Coki Point Beach, and Sapphire Beach) multiple times during high- and low-tourist season. At each sampling site and occasion, we measured environmental features (i.e., grain size, waves, and slope), urbanization variables (e.g., solid waste, traffic of vehicles, and beach cleaning) and ghost crab (Ocypode quadrata) population parameters (i.e., burrow density, depth, and width). We found that all studied beaches have similar morphodynamic features, being generally characterized as wave dominated reflective. Urbanization variables were the main drivers of ghost crab populations, with visitor frequency, distance to urban center, and evidence of vehicles on sand exerting stronger roles than variations in physical beach characteristics. Overall, our results provide important information on the morphology of USVI beaches and the impact of beach use. We expect these results will increase understanding of the drivers and threats to local sandy beach biodiversity, inform future management decisions for the territory, while creating a baseline for ghost crab studies in the U.S. Virgin Islands.

Spatiotemporal patterns of macrophyte subsidies to sandy beaches of Yucatán, Mexico

The spatial and temporal patterns of macrophyte wrack in six sandy beach localities of the northern Yucatán Peninsula were described to answer three main questions: (1) Is the composition and biomass of stranded macrophyte homogeneous along the coast and independent of climatic events?; (2) Which environmental features of beaches are the main predictors of macrophyte biomass deposition and retention?; and (3) Is there a significant relationship between deposited, retained, and buried wrack and the content of organic matter in sediments? To this end, the macrophyte wrack was collected in five random replicated quadrats along the recent drift line (representing the deposited wrack). The same operation was repeated along the aging strandline (representing the retained wrack). All material was washed and weighed. Macrophytes of each sample were separated into nine categories to determine variations in their composition. Macrophyte wrack patterns of species composition were primarily explained by large spatial scales (localities), separating the west side (Celestún and Sisal) from the rest of the Yucatán coast. The composition of macrophytes was consistent, although their temporal dynamics varied between sites and localities. Biomass patterns showed a more complex spatial and temporal pattern with a significant relation of the arrived and retained wrack biomass. The main environmental predictors of wrack biomass deposition and retention were longitude coordinates, shoreline orientation, grain size, and swash climate. However, the beach state did not correlate with the deposited and retained wrack biomass. The amount of buried wrack was significantly related to the amount of retained wrack, and the former significantly contributed to explaining the amount of organic carbon in sediments. In general, we hypothesized that the nearshore and heterogeneous habitats could be responsible for the complex spatiotemporal patterns of wrack variation found in the sandy beaches of Yucatán.

Beach-cast and drifting seaweed wrack is an important resource for marine and terrestrial macroinvertebrates in high latitudes

Seaweeds are foundation species across near-subtidal and intertidal zones, including when detached and free-floating and then cast ashore as wrack. Wrack is sometimes removed by humans for aesthetics or to be used as fertilizer. The study of wrack as an important habitat and resource for macroinvertebrates in high latitudes has been limited. To determine which taxa might be impacted when wrack is removed, the composition and relative abundance of macroinvertebrates were quantified monthly and compared in areas with and without wrack in Kachemak Bay, Alaska. Relationships were assessed between macroinvertebrates and wrack line (tidal height, moisture content, seaweed biomass) and beach characteristics (wave exposure, beach slope, substrate types). Approximately 47,000 animals were counted and a total of 87 taxa were identified from beach-cast wrack, drifting wrack, and bare sediment habitats. Macroinvertebrate communities within beach-cast wrack and bare sediment habitats were significantly different. Beach-cast wrack generally had more terrestrially-derived animals, especially Coleoptera and Diptera. Bare beach sediment was predominantly occupied by Enchytraeida (annelids). Macroinvertebrate communities were most strongly influenced by seaweed biomass and tidal height of the wrack line. Beach-cast wrack and bare sediments were also compared to drifting wrack in shallow, nearshore waters. Drifting wrack was different and generally occupied by more marine-derived animals, especially Amphipoda, Gastropoda, Mytilida, and Polychaeta. Ecological succession in decaying beach-cast wrack was documented, with decomposers (e.g., Amphipoda and Diptera) being early colonizers, and predators (e.g., Coleoptera and Hymenoptera) arriving later. Understanding the importance of this unique and ecologically important habitat to macroinvertebrates is essential, as removals and reductions in wrack availability could influence macroinvertebrate community structure, higher trophic level consumers, and key ecological processes on beaches. This study is the first direct investigation into seaweed wrack-associated macroinvertebrate communities in a sub-Arctic system.

Young children's use of blue spaces and the impact on their health, development and environmental awareness: A qualitative study from parents' perspectives.

This study examined how families with young children access and use different types of blue spaces and the health and development benefits, and potential negative effects. Parents(n=25) of young children across four coastal communities in Western Australia were recruited via purposive sampling to participate in interviews. A generic qualitative study design grounded in the pragmatism paradigm was utilised. Beaches were the most frequently used blue space for families all year around, however families did not necessarily attend their closest beach. This appears due to certain beach features making them more or less attractive for use regardless of the distance from home. Parents perceived blue spaces as health promoting due to the increased physical activity children did in and around these spaces. They also reported blue spaces could be positive for child development, contributing to the development of identity. Blue spaces were also perceived to promote children's environmental awareness and environmentally friendly behaviours. However, blue spaces could also be potentially risky environments for families with young children. The findings highlight blue spaces are an important setting for supporting children's health, development and environmental consciousness. SO WHAT?: It is important to protect natural outdoor environments such as blue spaces for future generations. The findings can be used by governments and policy makers to improve the quality (features and amenities) of blue spaces and positively impact how often families (including those with dogs) use blue spaces and the benefits they experience.

The Probable Cause for Nesting Pattern of Olive Ridley (<i>Lepidochelys olivacea</i>) at Ramnagar Beach, North East Coast of Andaman Island, India

The nesting behaviour of sea turtles remains a subject to study, due to their enigmatic pattern of seasonal breeding activities. Over a period of time, several reports have been made in this context associated with the nesting behaviour of the Olive Ridley turtles. In the present study, characteristics of the breeding beach and nesting pattern of Olive Ridley (Lepidochelys olivacea) at Ramnagar along N-E coast of Andaman Islands were investigated, during the nesting periods 2016-2017. The study area hosts Olive Ridley, the dominant sea turtles with more than 300 individuals nesting each year. For this study, the number of sea turtles visited, nested, the sediment characters, salinity, and temperature were taken. The exposed sandy nesting beach characteristics are prone to varying degrees of morphological changes every day. The results depict that even though similar grain size (Coarse Sand to Fine Sand and Very well sorted to Poorly Sorted), with an ambient incubating temperature, pH and salinity with wide nesting area, the selective nesting in the particular location of the beach identified because of comfortable energy conditions in the waters (1.5 m/s) favours the female turtles to reach the beach at the preferable site of Ramnagar and nest.

INFLUENCE OF SELECTED DETERMINANTS ON THE PERCEPTION OF BEACHES AS A TOURISM PRODUCT

INFLUENCE OF SELECTED DETERMINANTS ON THE PERCEPTION OF BEACHES AS A TOURISM PRODUCT