Bathymetric Features Research Articles

Seabed topography beneath Larsen C Ice Shelf from seismic soundings

Abstract. Seismic reflection soundings of ice thickness and seabed depth were acquired on the Larsen C Ice Shelf in order to test a sub-ice shelf bathymetry model derived from the inversion of IceBridge gravity data. A series of lines was collected, from the Churchill Peninsula in the north to the Joerg Peninsula in the south, and also towards the ice front. Sites were selected using the bathymetry model derived from the inversion of free-air gravity data to indicate key regions where sub-ice shelf oceanic circulation may be affected by ice draft and seabed depth. The seismic velocity profile in the upper 100 m of firn and ice was derived from shallow refraction surveys at a number of locations. Measured temperatures within the ice column and at the ice base were used to define the velocity profile through the remainder of the ice column. Seismic velocities in the water column were derived from previous in situ measurements. Uncertainties in ice and water cavity thickness are in general < 10 m. Compared with the seismic measurements, the root-mean-square error in the gravimetrically derived bathymetry at the seismic sites is 162 m. The seismic profiles prove the non-existence of several bathymetric features that are indicated in the gravity inversion model, significantly modifying the expected oceanic circulation beneath the ice shelf. Similar features have previously been shown to be highly significant in affecting basal melt rates predicted by ocean models. The discrepancies between the gravity inversion results and the seismic bathymetry are attributed to the assumption of uniform geology inherent in the gravity inversion process and also the sparsity of IceBridge flight lines. Results indicate that care must be taken when using bathymetry models derived by the inversion of free-air gravity anomalies. The bathymetry results presented here will be used to improve existing sub-ice shelf ocean circulation models.

Seasonal Variation in the Spatial Distribution of Basking Sharks (Cetorhinus maximus) in the Lower Bay of Fundy, Canada

The local distribution of basking sharks in the Bay of Fundy (BoF) is unknown despite frequent occurrences in the area from May to November. Defining this species’ spatial habitat use is critical for accurately assessing its Special Concern conservation status in Atlantic Canada. We developed maximum entropy distribution models for the lower BoF and the northeast Gulf of Maine (GoM) to describe spatiotemporal variation in habitat use of basking sharks. Under the Maxent framework, we assessed model responses and distribution shifts in relation to known migratory behavior and local prey dynamics. We used 10 years (2002-2011) of basking shark surface sightings from July-October acquired during boat-based surveys in relation to chlorophyll-a concentration, sea surface temperature, bathymetric features, and distance to seafloor contours to assess habitat suitability. Maximum entropy estimations were selected based on AICc criterion and used to predict habitat utilizing three model-fitting routines as well as converted to binary suitable/non-suitable habitat using the maximum sensitivity and specificity threshold. All models predicted habitat better than random (AUC values >0.796). From July-September, a majority of habitat was in the BoF, in waters >100 m deep, and in the Grand Manan Basin. In October, a majority of the habitat shifted southward into the GoM and to areas >200 m deep. Model responses suggest that suitable habitat from July - October is dependent on a mix of distance to the 0, 100, 150, and 200 m contours but in some models on sea surface temperature (July) and chlorophyll-a (August and September). Our results reveal temporally dynamic habitat use of basking sharks within the BoF and GoM. The relative importance of predictor variables suggests that prey dynamics constrained the species distribution in the BoF. Also, suitable habitat shifted minimally from July-September providing opportunities to conserve the species during peak abundance in the region.

Compilation and validation of bathymetric data for the South China Sea with an emphasis on shallow region

Bathymetric data with a resolution of 5 min called gbscs5 have been compiled for a shelf region shallower than 200 m in the South China Sea by referring to paper charts, electronic charts, and trackline sounding data. Through a comparison between the new dataset and existing datasets (etopo5, etopo1, gebco08), characteristics of each dataset, including the existence of artificial features derived from erroneous sounding data or a conversion error of depth units, were documented for each dataset. It was found that small-scale bathymetric features observed along the shelf edge in gebco08 bathymetry are bounded by survey lines and were likely to be a spurious figure generated when applying a high-order interpolation scheme. Tidal simulations conducted with changing bathymetries have shown that the newly compiled dataset will produce smaller deviation from observed values than the existing bathymetries. While all four datasets analyzed in this study were found to be suitable for estimating overall tidal features of the South China Sea, a care must be taken when applying the tidal model results to a particular coastal region.

GPS-derived interseismic coupling on the subduction and seismic hazards in the Atacama region, Chile

The Atacama region (between 29°S and 25°S) is located in the North-Central area of Chile, a tectonically complex transition area between North and Central Chile. Deformation in Atacama is due mainly to elastic loading on the subduction interface but also to diffuse shortening in the Sierras Pampeanas, Argentina. The seismicity of the subduction is complex in this region: seismic swarms often occur, moderate (Mw ∼ 6) to large (Mw ∼ 7) earthquakes occur repeatedly and finally, megathrust earthquakes of magnitudes significantly larger than 8 occur once in a while, the last one being in 1922—almost a century ago. We use new GPS data we collected in the Atacama region between 2008 and 2012 to complete and densify existing data we acquired since 2004 in North-Central Chile. These new data allow to quantify the motion of the Andean sliver and assess the kinematic coupling on the subduction interface at these latitudes. We find that only 7 per cent of the whole convergence motion is taken up by an eastward rotation of the rigid sliver. A large part of the remaining 93 per cent (approximately 6 cm/yr) gives way to accumulation of elastic deformation in the upper plate, due to locking on the plate interface. This accumulation shows important along-strike and along-dip variations, interpreted in terms of variable coupling which we correlate with seismicity. We identify two areas of low coupling near the 'La Serena' (30°S) and 'Baranquilla' (27.5°S) bays. Both are correlated with the subduction of singular bathymetric features and seem to stop the propagation of large seismic ruptures. These zones are also seismic swarm prone areas, which seem to occur rather on their edges. These low coupling areas separate two seismic segments where coupling is high: the Atacama segment ( ∼100 km long between 29◦S and 28◦S) and the Cha naral segment (∼200 km long between 27◦S and 25◦S). Should they rupture alone, these segments are sufficiently coupled and apparently since long enough, to produce Mw∼8 events. However, a collective failure of both segments could generate a megathrust earthquake of magnitude close to 8.5, similar to the 1819 and 1922 complex events, which produced important tsunamis. Such giant events may occur in the area once a century.

Transmission loss for vibratory pile driving in shallow water: Modeling and field measurements for a Puget Sound location

Measurements of the underwater noise from vibratory pile driving were collected at a marine construction site in January 2013, during which 0.76 m steel piles were driven in shallow water (less than 10 m). The sound field was simultaneously measured at three locations at distances 200 m (1 hydrophone) and 400 m (2 hydrophones) from the pile driving location and roughly 150 m to 300 m from the shore. In the Practical Spreading Model (PSM), transmission loss is 15 log10(R/R0): R is the range to which TL is calculated, and R0 is the range for a close range measurement, typically O(10 m) from the source. Models such as the PSM that do not account for bathymetric or sediment properties could not be expected to predict the anomalously high transmission loss (TL) that was observed between the 200 m location and one of the 400 m locations. Important bathymetric features (of order 10 m in range, 1 m in depth) and sedimentary properties for the area were incorporated into a Parabolic Equation model; modeled TL was compared to observed TL for third octave bands. Using a Geographic Information System tool, modeled TL was visualized for the area. [Work supported by Washington Sea Grant.]

Geomorphometry and processes that built Necker Ridge, central North Pacific Ocean

Abstract Necker Ridge is an enigmatic 650-km long, narrow, linear aseismic bathymetric feature that rises 2500 to 3000 m above the abyssal seafloor south of the Hawaiian Ridge. The ridge is the largest of a series of aseismic ridges that emanate from the eastern side of the Mid-Pacific Mountains outward towards the northeast. The trend of Necker Ridge is at an angle to fracture zones and spreading centers in the region, so its origin is controversial, yet it is a major feature on this part of the Cretaceous Pacific Plate. The entire feature, from Necker Island on the Hawaiian Ridge to the eastern Mid-Pacific Mountains, including the adjacent abyssal seafloor, was mapped in 2009 and 2011 with the latest generation of multibeam echosounders. The detailed bathymetry shows the ridge to be constructed of a series of stacked, thick (200–400 m) volcanic flows that can be traced along the trend of Necker Ridge for 100 s of km. This continuity suggests that the volcanism erupted simultaneously along almost the entire length of the feature and not as spatially episodic areas of extrusion. Three relatively flat platforms occur on the summit region, presumably constructed of shallow-water carbonates when these portions of the ridge were at sea level. A conspicuous lack of thick pelagic sediment on the non-platform ridge summit and flanks is seen throughout the ridge. The lack of landslides along the length of the ridge is equally puzzling. The southern end of the ridge is connected by a saddle to the Mid-Pacific Mountains whereas the northern end of the ridge is buried by an archipelagic apron of the southern flank of the Hawaiian Ridge.

Assessing the risk of vulnerable species exposure to deepwater trawl fisheries: the case of orange roughyHoplostethus atlanticusto the west of Ireland and Britain

With slow growth rates, late maturity and a high maximum age of 100 years or more, orange roughy can be classified as a vulnerable deepwater fish species that can only sustain low rates of exploitation. Historical patterns of exploitation associated with this species suggest that it is currently not possible to manage its fisheries in the Northeast Atlantic sustainably, and the total allowable catch for orange roughy has been gradually reduced to zero for European fisheries since 2010. Orange roughy to the west of Ireland and Britain occurs on distinct bathymetric features (seamounts, hills and canyons) as well as on flat ground along the continental slope. Productivity-susceptibility analysis (PSA) was performed to evaluate the biological vulnerability of orange roughy in relation to other deepwater species and the risk that recent and current fisheries pose to its populations in the study area. Time-dependant PSA, based on the spatial overlap between orange roughy distribution and recent and current deepwater fisheries demonstrated a strong reduction in risk over time when fisheries stopped directed targeting practices and continued with mixed deepwater trawl fisheries. Some spatial overlap between the species and current fisheries remains, and while the method can show relative risk reduction, it cannot provide information on whether the risk is low enough to allow the recovery of depleted populations.

Análise do padrão de distribuição de baleia franca austral na costa sul brasileira

The southern right whale, Eubalaena australis , is a migratory baleen whale that uses southern Brazilian waters as a nursery and breeding ground from June to November. This study aims to determine the distribution patterns and main aggregation sites of southern right whales off the southern Brazilian coast from around Santa Catarina Island to Osorio, and to investigate the population distribution according to the coastline and bathymetric features. The methods consisted in obtaining geographical coordinates for each individual, sighted through helicopter expeditions over a transect along the coastline, conducted once a year in September, from 2001 to 2010. This data was used to generate a density estimate surface map of southern right whales using the Kernel Density Estimator. Additionally, a digital bathymetry was overlaid to the density estimate map. The results pointed out a region of high density estimate of southern right whales, located from 28°12’22”S, 48°39’25”W to 28°33’58”S 48°47’19”W, respectively, from Imbituba to Santa Marta Cape. The largest aggregations were observed where the shelf declivity is higher, as a result from the bathymetric lines of 10 m and 40 m being closer to each other, and where the coastline shows great amount of bays. We highlight the importance of monitoring the southern right whales distribution patterns observed in this study, aiming to identify possible habitat changes that can be indicative of disturbances on their populations. Key words: Eubalaena australis , reproductive grounds, Kernel Density Estimator.

Assessing temporal and spatial variability of hypoxia over the inner Louisiana–upper Texas shelf: Application of an unstructured-grid three-dimensional coupled hydrodynamic-water quality model

Patterns of temporal and spatial variability in hypoxia (<2mgO2l−1) on the inner Louisiana–upper Texas (LaTex) shelf were examined using FVCOM LaTex, an unstructured grid, three-dimensional, hydrodynamic-water quality model. Dynamics of dissolved oxygen were modeled using an expanded and revised version of the Water Analysis Simulation Program (WASP) that was fully coupled to a Finite Volume Coastal Ocean Model (FVCOM). The coupled model was driven by surface wind forcing, tidal forcing, offshore remote forcing, heat fluxes, oxygen exchanges at the air-sea interface, solar radiation, and freshwater and nutrient (nitrogen and phosphorus) fluxes from the Mississippi and Atchafalaya Rivers. The model simulations were carried out over a 9-month period, from January 1 to October 4, 2002, and the model skill was assessed using multiple sets of observational data that included time series of dissolved oxygen concentrations from a station within the core of the Gulf hypoxic zone (C6), dissolved oxygen measurements collected during the mid-summer shelfwide cruise, and vertical dissolved oxygen profiles through the year. The model results indicate that hypoxia originates in bottom waters on the mid-continental shelf, where isolated pockets of hypoxic water develop during early spring and later join into a larger continuous hypoxic zone. The model accurately described the seasonal cycle of hypoxia at station C6, including the episodes of intermittent hypoxia during May and June, persistent hypoxia during July and August, and dissipation of hypoxia during September. The onset of hypoxia coincided with high stability of the water column (i.e., Richardson number values>1) and the initial transition from normoxia (i.e., 6mgO2l−1) to hypoxia lasted about three weeks. The model results point to a significant short-term variability in the extent of hypoxic bottom waters, indicating that the size of the mid-summer hypoxic zone cannot be adequately captured by a single shelfwide cruise. The dynamics of bottom-water hypoxia is clearly influenced by the bathymetric features of the LaTex shelf, namely the presence of three shallow shoals (<5m) in the Atchafalaya Bay region and several deeper shoals (<10m) in the northwestern section of the study area. Lastly, the model results support the view that dynamics of hypoxia on the LaTex shelf is strongly modulated by the frequency and intensity of cold fronts and tropical storms. High winds associated with these events disturb stratification, causing partial or complete breakdown of hypoxia. However, cold fronts and tropical storms also cause significant sediment resuspension that fuels respiration in the lower water column, and in this manner promote redevelopment of hypoxia.

Distribution of marine predator hotspots explained by persistent areas of prey

Investigations of distributional and density patterns of marine predators often reveal areas where high abundances of one or many species overlap in space and time (‘biological hotspots’); however, mechanisms underlying hotspot formation are often unclear, leading to difficulties determining spatial and temporal boundaries of protected areas. On the northeast Newfoundland coast, I previously described annually persistent aggregations of a key forage fish species, capelin (Mallotus villosus): (1) two pre- and post-spawning staging areas in deep (>150 m) bathymetric channels, (2) a cluster of four persistently used demersal spawning sites (17–40 m), and (3) a coastal migratory route (<50 m). Through at-sea surveys repeated over 8 years (2000–2003, 2007, and 2009–2011), I show that the majority of predator hotspots identified were spatially associated with (i.e., within 10 km) these persistent capelin areas for breeding seabirds (common murre: 85.2 ± 4.6 %; northern gannet: 66.9 ± 6.6 %), overwintering seabirds (great and sooty shearwaters: 88.0 ± 6.9 %), and baleen whales (humpback, minke, and fin whales: 86.8 ± 8.6 %). Most predator hotspots were closer to the spawning (3.8–14.0 km) relative to the staging areas (13.1–27.6 km), especially for murres and shearwaters. Interspecific differences were attributed to variation in maximum dive depths and dietary preferences. Predators only aggregated within the spawning area, while capelin were spawning, suggesting that interannual variation in association with predator and capelin hotspots was attributed to variation in survey timing relative to capelin spawning. As these areas of persistent capelin are bound by static bathymetric and large-scale oceanographic features and can be delimited in time based on the capelin spawning period, they may be important candidate areas for protection.

Relative influence of static and dynamic features on black-footed albatross (Phoebastria nigripes) habitat use in central California Sanctuaries

Effective conservation of highly mobile species requires an understanding of the factors that influence their habitat use patterns, locally and within a largescale oceanographic context. We characterized the seasonal (chick-rearing, post-breeding) and interannual (2004–2008) distribution and abundance of black-footed albatross (Phoebastria nigripes; BFAL) along the central California continental shelf/slope using standardized vessel-based surveys. We used a hypothesis-based information-theoretic approach to quantify the relative influence of environmental conditions on BFAL occurrence and abundance by assessing their association with: (i) local static bathymetric features, (ii) local and regional dynamic oceanographic processes, and (iii) seasonal and inter-annual basin-wide variability. While the presence/absence models yielded stronger results than the abundance models, both revealed that static and dynamic features influence BFAL habitat use. Specifically, occurrence was greatest near the shelf-break, particularly in months with strong upwelling. High BFAL densities were associated with Rittenburg Bank, especially during the chick-rearing season, periods of positive North Pacific Gyre Oscillation index and large northern monthly upwelling, evidenced by cool, salty waters in the study area. BFAL aggregation intensity was greatest onshore of the shelf-break (200 m isobath). Behavioral observations reinforced the notion that transiting BFAL are widely dispersed near the shelf-break and concentrate in large flocks of birds sitting on the water farther onshore. These results underscore the need to consider oceanographic processes at multiple spatial scales when interpreting changes in BFAL dispersion within marine sanctuaries, and highlight the feasibility of implementing bathymetrically defined protected areas targeting predictable BFAL aggregations within these larger management jurisdictions.

Numerical modeling of groin impact on nearshore hydrodynamics

Groins are cross shore structures built to promote shoreline stabilization. However, the specific impact of these structures on the wave conditions and velocity field nearshore (and hence, on sediment transport) is still poorly understood. Therefore, this study wishes to extend this knowledge using a numerical model, COULWAVE, previously validated with field data. For that, a typical bar-trough profile is considered and different groin lengths and orientations are tested, under the influence of different significant incident-wave heights and sea-surface levels.The hydrodynamics factors are found to have a greater impact on the nearshore wave conditions than the groin geometry. The variation of significant incident-wave height imparts the greater changes in wave height nearshore, where the groin would be located. The typical tidal range is also important, since a 2m change in sea surface level can cause great depth changes over bathymetric features and thus influence wave propagation. Although less important, the geometry of the groin should also be considered. The greater the length, the greater the sheltering effect expected, extending further to the lee-side of the groin. The impact will also reach a broader region. With a smaller impact verified, the best orientation of the groin is hard to unravel.

Early India‐Australia spreading history revealed by newly detected Mesozoic magnetic anomalies in the Perth Abyssal Plain

AbstractThe seafloor within the Perth Abyssal Plain (PAP), offshore Western Australia, is the only section of crust that directly records the early spreading history between India and Australia during the Mesozoic breakup of Gondwana. However, this early spreading has been poorly constrained due to an absence of data, including marine magnetic anomalies and data constraining the crustal nature of key tectonic features. Here, we present new magnetic anomaly data from the PAP that shows that the crust in the western part of the basin was part of the Indian Plate—the conjugate flank to the oceanic crust immediately offshore the Perth margin, Australia. We identify a sequence of M2 and older anomalies in the west PAP within crust that initially moved with the Indian Plate, formed at intermediate half‐spreading rates (35 mm/yr) consistent with the conjugate sequence on the Australian Plate. More speculatively, we reinterpret the youngest anomalies in the east PAP, finding that the M0‐age crust initially formed on the Indian Plate was transferred to the Australian Plate by a westward jump or propagation of the spreading ridge shortly after M0 time. Samples dredged from the Gulden Draak and Batavia Knolls (at the western edge of the PAP) reveal that these bathymetric features are continental fragments rather than igneous plateaus related to Broken Ridge. These microcontinents rifted away from Australia with Greater India during initial breakup at ~130 Ma, then rifted from India following the cessation of spreading in the PAP (~101–103 Ma).

New records of rare deep-water fish species in the Eastern Ionian Sea (Mediterranean Sea)

We report new species records and information related to meristic, morphometric, bathymetric and biological characteristics that increase our knowledge of the deep ichthyofauna of the Ionian Sea (E. Mediterranean). The material was collected with long lines from 300 to 800 m deep in the Eastern Ionian Sea in June and October 2010. The fish species Schedophilus ovalis (Cuvier, 1833) (Osteichthyes: Centrolophidae), Sudis hyalina Rafinesque, 1810 (Osteicthyes: Paralepididae), Brama brama (Bonnaterre, 1788) (Osteichthyes: Bramidae) and Trachipterus trachypterus (Gmelin, 1789) (Osteichthyes: Trachipteridae) were recorded for the first time in the Eastern Ionian Sea. The absence of these new or rare species from the ichthyofauna of the study area to date is probably related to the absence of adequate sampling and catching techniques, although environmental factors could also be involved.

A low‐relief shield volcano origin for the South Kaua‘i Swell

The South Kaua‘i Swell (SKS) is a 110 km x 80 km ovoid bathymetric feature that stands &gt;2 km high and abuts the southern flank of the island of Kaua‘i. The origin of the SKS was investigated using multibeam bathymetry and acoustic backscatter, gravity data, radiometric ages, and geochemistry of rock samples. Most of the SKS rock samples are tholeiitic in composition with ages of 3.9–5.4 Ma indicating they were derived from shield volcanism. The ages and compositions of the SKS rocks partially overlap with those of the nearby Ni‘ihau, Kaua‘i and West Ka‘ena volcano complexes. The SKS was originally described as a landslide; however, this interpretation is problematic given the ovoid shape of SKS, its relatively smooth, flat‐to‐convex surface, and the lack of an obvious source region that could accommodate what would be one of Earth's most voluminous (6 x 103 km3) landslides. The morphology, size, and the surrounding gravity anomaly are more consistent with the SKS being a low‐relief shield volcano, which was partially covered with a small volume of landside debris from south Kaua‘i and later with some secondary volcanic seamounts. A shield origin would imply that Hawaiian and possibly other hotspot shield volcanoes can take on a wider variety of forms than is commonly thought, ranging from tall island‐building shields, to smaller edifices such as Ka‘ena Ridge and Mahukona, to even lower‐relief volcanoes represented by the SKS and possibly the South West O‘ahu Volcanic Field.

Enhanced nutrient fluxes at the shelf sea seasonal thermocline caused by stratified flow over a bank

Patches of enhanced chlorophyll a (Chl) concentrations within the thermocline were observed over the slopes of several banks in the Celtic Sea. The turbulent mixing of nutrients from the bottom water into the thermocline was found to be greatly enhanced over the slope of a bank (up to 52mmolnitratem−2day−1), compared to over nearby flat seafloor (∼2mmolnitratem−2day−1). This increased nutrient supply, forced by locally generated lee waves and internal mixing, is greater than nitrate supplies to the productive tidal mixing fronts or to the shelf edge. We hypothesize this nutrient flux promotes an increase in phytoplankton growth in the thermocline over and downstream of shelf sea banks, contributing to the horizontal patchiness in the thermocline Chl signal. The persistence of the strong biological response to mixing at the bank, combined with the ubiquity of shelf sea banks, suggests these bathymetric features have wide importance for “new” primary production in shelf seas.

Provenance and characteristics of rocks from the Yermak Plateau, Arctic Ocean: Petrographic, geochemical and geochronological constraints

The Yermak Plateau is a prominent bathymetric feature of the Arctic Ocean. To the west it is bordered by the Fram Strait, which forms the only deep-water connection between the Arctic and the other global oceans. Origin, crustal nature and age of the Yermak Plateau are largely unknown. For this study, we investigated dredged rocks of two sites from the Yermak Plateau. Based on petrography, geochemistry, and geochronology, we distinguished between ice-transported and in-situ rocks. Ice-transported material was most likely derived from outcrops of the High Arctic Large Igneous Province (HALIP) on Franz Josef Land, the Siberian trap province, and presumably from northern Svalbard. Our data from the in-situ rocks, in conjunction with previously published geophysical data, show that the investigated parts of the Yermak Plateau are composed of stretched continental crust strongly affected by alkaline magmatism. The continental rocks represent a direct continuation of the exposures on northern Svalbard. Alkaline magmatism took place at ~ 51 Ma and was related to continental rifting in an extensional setting. The melts were formed by low degrees of partial melting of the sub-continental lithospheric mantle and are probably associated with the high-amplitude magnetic anomalies described for the northeastern Yermak Plateau. Extension of the Yermak Plateau was contemporaneous with spreading of the adjacent young Eurasian Basin, and occurred during the peak of compressional deformation affecting North Greenland, Svalbard, and Ellesmere Island. These contrasting regimes were probably compensated by transpression and strike-slip movements along the DeGeer and Wegener Faults. The date of ~ 51 Ma for extension-related magmatism also provides age constraints for the extension-related formation of the Sophia Basin (and thus for water exchange between the Eurasian Basin, the area of the DeGeer Fault and the young Norwegian-Greenland Sea), and for the sediments covering the horst-and-graben structures of the Yermak Plateau.

An Inner-Shelf Wave Forecasting System for the U.S. Pacific Northwest

Abstract An operational inner-shelf wave forecasting system was implemented for the Oregon and southwest Washington coast in the U.S. Pacific Northwest (PNW). High-resolution wave forecasts are useful for navigational planning, identifying wave energy resources, providing information for site-specific coastal flood models, and having an informed recreational beach user group, among other things. This forecasting model is run once a day at 1200 UTC producing 84-h forecasts. A series of nested grids with increasing resolution shoreward are implemented to achieve a 30-arc-second resolution at the shelf level. This resolution is significantly higher than what the current operational models produce, thus improving the ability to quantify the alongshore variations of wave conditions on the PNW coast. Normalized root-mean-squared errors in significant wave height and mean wave period range from 0.13 to 0.24 and from 0.13 to 0.26, respectively. Visualization of the forecasts is made available online and is presently being used by recreational beach users and the scientific community. A series of simulations, taking advantage of having a validated shelf-scale numerical wave model, suggests that neither dissipation due to bottom friction nor wind generation is important in the region at this scale for wave forecasting and hindcasting when considering bulk parameters as opposed to the processes of refraction and shoaling. The Astoria and McArthur Canyons; the Stonewall, Perpetua, and Heceta Banks; and Cape Blanco are significant bathymetric features that are shown to be capable of producing alongshore variability of wave heights on the shelf.

Seismic ambient noise around the South China Sea: seasonal and spatial variations, and implications for its climate and surface circulation

With its strong seasonal variation in wave climate and various bathymetric features due to the complex tectonics, the South China Sea (SCS) provides a natural laboratory to study the microseism. We collected data from seismic stations around the SCS and calculated their noise spectra, through which seasonal and spatial variations of microseism, as well as the general feature of seismic ambient noise in this marginal sea were revealed. Microseism seasonal variations in general reflect influences of the East Asian monsoon in winter and the Indian monsoon in summer, respectively. The two microseism components, the single frequency microseism (SFM) and the double frequency microseism (DFM), show striking alternating variation patterns both seasonally and spatially. These variation patterns, along with the bathymetric feature near the stations, indicate SFM and DFM are generated through different physical mechanisms. More interestingly, seasonal and spatial variations of DFM appear to be consistent with the basin-scale surface circulation model of the SCS, in which the upper SCS experiences cyclonic in winter and anti-cyclonic in summer. These consistencies provide observational evidence for the hypothesis that the cyclonic depression is a favorable condition to generate DFM.

Scales of time and space variability of sound fields reflecting obliquely from underwater slopes

Ocean flows impart a time dependence to interference patterns of sound reflecting at low horizontal angle from sloping bathymetry. This is a higher level of complexity than interference patterns within vertical slices in spherically symmetric environments. The time-space statistics may be co-dependent and non-normal, making conventional methods inapplicable. Here, patterns that occur when 100 to 1000 Hz sound reflects at slopes are simulated with three-dimensional methods. Multiple statistics of sound at virtual arrays are computed over the domain, including incoherent power, beam power, spatial correlation length, and array gain assuming idealized noise conditions. These depend on source and receiver locations with respect to bathymetric features and can be computed for instantaneously sampled ocean conditions to study their evolution within the time frame of the dominant flow, or computed via averaging over a few periods of the dominant flow features (tides, for example). Here, the spatial complexity of patterns found in 100-Hz (and upward) simulations at a slope area off San Diego, CA, in a time varying flow are linked to the imposed seafloor roughness as well as geometry, with mean intensity, scintillation index, and correlation scale used to quantify the effect. Implications for statistics employed in detection and tracking algorithms are discussed.