Back-barrier Environments Research Articles

Direct and Remote Sensing Monitoring of Plant Salinity Stress in a Coastal Back-Barrier Environment: Mediterranean Pine Forest Stress and Mortality as a Case Study

The increase in atmospheric and soil temperatures in recent decades has led to unfavorable conditions for plants in many Mediterranean coastal environments. A typical example can be found along the coast of the Campania region in Italy, within the “Volturno Licola Falciano Natural Reserve”, where a pine forest suffered a dramatic loss of trees in 2021. New pines were planted in 2023 to replace the dead ones, with a larger tree layout and interspersed with Mediterranean bushes to replace the dead pine forest. A direct (in situ) monitoring program was planned to analyze the determinants of the pine salinity stress, coupled with Sentinel-2 L2A data; in particular, multispectral indices NDVI and NDMI were provided by the EU Copernicus service for plant status and water stress level information. Both the vadose zone and shallow groundwater were monitored with continuous logging probes. Vadose zone monitoring indicated that salinity peaked at a 30 cm soil depth, with values up to 1.9 g/L. These harsh conditions, combined with air temperatures reaching peaks of more than 40 °C, created severe difficulties for pine growth. The results of the shallow groundwater monitoring showed that the groundwater salinity was low (0.35–0.4 g/L) near the shoreline since the dune environment allowed rapid rainwater infiltration, preventing seawater intrusion. Meanwhile, salinity increased inland, reaching a peak at the end of the summer, with values up to 2.8 g/L. In November 2023, salts from storm-borne aerosols (“sea spray”) deposited on the soil caused the sea-facing portion of the newly planted pines to dry out. Differently, the pioneer vegetation of the Mediterranean dunes, directly facing the sea, was not affected by the massive deposition of sea spray. The NDMI and NDVI data were useful in distinguishing the old pine trees suffering from increasing stress and final death but were not accurate in detecting the stress conditions of newly planted, still rather short pine trees because their spectral reflectance largely interfered with the adjacent shrub growth. The proposed coupling of direct and remote sensing monitoring was successful and could be applied to detect the main drivers of plant stress in many other Mediterranean coastal environments.

The birth of backbarrier marshes in Culatra Island (Ria Formosa, South Portugal)

The rapid elongation of Culatra Island, a sandy barrier in the Ria Formosa chain (S. Portugal), since the mid-1940s led to the formation of three new embayments in its backbarrier that were gradually colonised by halophytic vegetation. This provided a rare opportunity to collect information and data on the very early stages of backbarrier marsh plant establishment and evolution. Sediment (surface and subsurface) sampling in two of the recently formed bays, combined with information extracted from vertical aerial photographs, allowed us to assess modern sedimentation characteristics and vertical accretion rates since the shift from a bare sandflat to a vegetated marsh platform. Present-day topography appears largely inherited by overwash or/and inlet-related tidal deposits that provided the necessary sediment pulse for the formation of an intertidal sandy substrate, suitable for colonisation. The variability in accretion rates, noted even within the same embayment, as well as the differences in accretion balance with similarly young backbarrier marshes, highlight the importance of local conditions (sediment import, distance to creeks and marsh edge, storm frequency and intensity) to marsh build-up, even during the very early stages. Variable accretion rates were also identified over intertidal seagrass patches, indicating similar influences. Organic deposition rates were very low in all vegetated intertidal habitats, indicating the dominance of mineral deposition to the vertical growth. A lag, ranging from roughly 10–30 years, was observed between the formation of the intertidal sandy platform and plant establishment in all embayments. The different timescales in the observed lag are likely linked to differences in hydrodynamic conditions, promoted by the embayment morphology (opening width). The lowest lag was observed in protected embayments, which could reflect a ‘typical’ delay for plant establishment in the system, while the highest lag was associated with higher energy backbarrier environments.

Flood vulnerability under sea level rise for a coastal community located in a backbarrier environment, Portugal

Sea level rise will be a major threat to coastal communities within the next century due to the intensity and severity of the floods it can cause. A new methodology considering water infiltration, slope, and hydraulic connectivity was developed to assess the potential inundation extension associated with different total water level and sea level rise scenarios on sandy coasts. This methodology was applied for the current conditions as well as 2050 and 2100 scenarios of storm surge and high tide levels with return periods of 1 year and 100 years. The study area is Culatra village, located on the lagoon side of a barrier island in southern Portugal. The effects of shoreline evolution after the construction of a harbor and associated beach nourishment were also evaluated within the inundation scenarios. The results show that, within the study area, total water level variations caused by sea level rise have a greater influence on the inundation extension than shoreline retreat. The village appears to be safe for the current and 2050 total water level scenarios with a 1-year return period but would be highly affected by 100-year return periods, especially from 2050 onwards. This novel approach represents an improvement on more common flood mapping methods such as the bathtub approach and can be easily applied to other backbarrier environments under sea level rise or facing coastal erosion.

Hydrodynamic controls on sedimentary facies of tidal point bars: A case study in the Georgia coastal plain, USA

AbstractTidal point bars are commonly developed in coastal plain meandering channels. They form by the same basic processes as fluvial point bars but are further modified by tidal action. This study analyses the sedimentary facies of six active tidal point bars and their relationships. The bars are situated along the Georgia coastal plain, USA, in the lower and upper reaches of the fluvial marine transition and in tidal channels without upstream river input. Based on millimetric logging of 31 cores, nine sedimentary facies were identified, which are proposed to be used for the characterization of tidal point bars in other depositional settings. These bars share common sedimentary facies; however, the internal organization of these facies and their associations differ appreciably in response to complex local tidal processes and fluvial–tidal interactions. The increase in tidal influence results in prominent heterogeneous architectures, with greater concentration of heterolithic stratification (mostly inclined), bioturbation and evidence of flow reversals. In contrast, when freshwater river discharge overcomes tidal stages in the fluvial marine transition bars, structureless coarse‐grained facies with attendant erosional surfaces and decreased bioturbation are predominantly developed. In the lower reach of the fluvial marine transition, along the estuarine turbidity maximum, alternations of fluvial and tidal sedimentation are evidenced by a bimodal facies association, where alternations of gravel lag and muddy facies (massive to heterolithic) dominate. Moreover, despite differences in local hydrodynamics, coarsening‐upward sequences, mostly composed of structureless coarser facies, are consistently distributed along the upper parts of the bars, which may indicate overprinting of regional events such as storm surge‐related floodings in the sedimentological record. This study provides a basis for better identifying the hydrodynamic processes that shape coastal systems, such as estuarine and backbarrier environments. Additionally, those deposits are analogues for certain hydrocarbon reservoirs, thereby increasing knowledge of their facies distribution and aiding production optimization.

Undeveloped and developed phases in the centennial evolution of a barrier-marsh-lagoon system: The case of Long Beach Island, New Jersey

Barrier islands and their associated backbarrier environments protect mainland population centers and infrastructure from storm impacts, support biodiversity, and provide long-term carbon storage, among other ecosystem services. Despite their socio-economic and ecological importance, the response of coupled barrier-marsh-lagoon environments to sea-level rise is poorly understood. Undeveloped barrier-marsh-lagoon systems typically respond to sea-level rise through the process of landward migration, driven by storm overwash and landward mainland marsh expansion. Such response, however, can be affected by human development and engineering activities such as lagoon dredging and shoreline stabilization. To better understand the difference in the response between developed and undeveloped barrier-marsh-lagoon environments to sea-level rise, we perform a local morphologic analysis that describes the evolution of Long Beach Island (LBI), New Jersey, over the last 182 years. We find that between 1840 and 1934 the LBI system experienced landward migration of all five boundaries, including 171 meters of shoreline retreat. Between the 1920s and 1950s, however, there was a significant shift in system behavior that coincided with the onset of groin construction, which was enhanced by beach nourishment and lagoon dredging practices. From 1934 to 2022 the LBI system experienced ~22 meters of shoreline progradation and a rapid decline in marsh platform extent. Additionally, we extend a morphodynamic model to describe the evolution of the system in terms of five geomorphic boundaries: the ocean shoreline and backbarrier-marsh interface, the seaward and landward lagoon-marsh boundaries, and the landward limit of the inland marsh. We couple this numerical modeling effort with the map analysis during the undeveloped phase of LBI evolution, between 1840 and 1934. Despite its simplicity, the modeling framework can describe the average cross-shore evolution of the barrier-marsh-lagoon system during this period without accounting for human landscape modifications, supporting the premise that natural processes were the key drivers of morphological change. Overall, these results suggest that anthropogenic effects have played a major role in the evolution of LBI over the past century by altering overwash fluxes and marsh-lagoon geometry; this is likely the case for other barrier-marsh-lagoon environments around the world.

Geomorphological Changes of a Migrating Sandbank: Multidecadal Analysis as a Tool for Managing Conflicts in Coastal Use

While beach erosion and sand loss are typically of great concern to the tourism industry, managing rapid morphological changes linked to large amounts of moving sediments is the challenge facing Grado, an important seaside resort in the northern Adriatic, Italy. The cause of the unusual management conflict is the presence of the Mula di Muggia Bank, a nearshore depositional system made up of relict and active migrating sandbanks extending up to 2 km seawards from the touristic beachfront. A reconstruction of the morpho-sedimentary evolution of the coastal system over a 200-year period was done using a large dataset which includes historical cartography, topographic maps, aerial photos and topo-bathymetric surveys. The results show the growth of a significant urban development aimed at creating a tourist destination by occupying the waterfront along fetch-limited coastal tracts with very shallow water and scarce hydrodynamics. Furthermore, a number of sandy dynamic landforms (longshore migrating bars, a bypass corridor, an ebb-tidal delta) and accumulation zones attest to a sediment excess which can be mostly attributed to the eastern river supplies. The progressive constant migration rate of 12.6 my−1 allowed the bank to induce the expansion of the low-energy silty backbarrier environment, characterised by abundant seagrass meadows a short distance directly in front of the tourist beaches of Grado. As a result of historical analysis and more current observations, areas with diverse morphosedimentary features and with varying tourist/recreational, ecological, and conservation values have been identified. These can be considered as basic units for future accurate planning and re-evaluation of coastal management choices to balance environmental protection and tourist use. A soft coastal defence approach is proposed which includes either the preservation of specific environments or the proper use of excess sand for beach nourishment via periodic dredging or sediment bypassing.

Linking backbarrier lacustrine stratigraphy with spatial dynamics of shoreline retreat in a rapidly subsiding region of the Mississippi River Delta

The northern Gulf of Mexico shoreline is rapidly retreating, and coastal features of the abandoned Mississippi River delta complexes are eroding and subsiding. Bay Champagne is located in the Caminada-Moreau headland, a region located west of the currently active delta that has one of the highest rates of retreat and land loss globally. As a result, the shoreline at Bay Champagne has retreated more than two kilometers in the past 130 years, causing a gradual transition from a stable, circular freshwater lake to a frequently disturbed, semi-circular backbarrier lagoon. Analyses of clastic layers in a series of sediment cores collected at this site over the past decade indicate the lake was less perturbed in the past and has become increasingly more sensitive to marine incursion events caused by tropical cyclones as the shoreline retreated. Geochemical and pollen analyses of the cores also reveal profound changes in environmental and chemical conditions at Bay Champagne over the past century. Through relating stratigraphy to spatial changes observed from satellite imagery, this study establishes a timeline of the transition of Bay Champagne from an inland lake to a backbarrier environment, and demonstrated that these changes have not occurred at a constant rate. These results provide a case-study of changing local environmental conditions in response to rapid shoreline retreat, and therefore serve as a model for future coastal changes for Louisiana and other Gulf coastal areas.

Effects of Beach Nourishment Project on Coastal Geomorphology and Mangrove Dynamics in Southern Louisiana, USA

Relative sea-level (RSL) rise associated with decreased fluvial sediment discharge and increased hurricane activity have contributed to the high rate of shoreline retreat and threatened coastal ecosystems in Port Fourchon, Louisiana, USA. This study, based on QuickBird/drone images (2004–2019) and LIDAR data (1998–2013), analyzed the impacts of shoreline dynamics on mangroves (Avicennia germinans) and marshes before and after the initiation of a beach nourishment project in 2013. The coastal barrier and dune crest migrated landward between 1998 and 2013. Meanwhile, the dune crest height increased between 1998 and 2001, then decreased in 2013, probably due to hurricane impacts. The total sediment volume along this sandy coastal barrier presented an overall trend of decline in the 1998–2013 period, resulting in a wetlands loss of ~15.6 ha along 4 km of coastline. This has led to a landward sand migration onto muddy tidal flats occupied by Avicennia germinans (1.08 ha) and Spartina (14.52 ha). However, the beach nourishment project resulted in the advancement of the beach barrier from Nov/2012 to Jan/2015, followed by a relatively stable period between Jan/2015 and Mar/2019. Additionally, both the dune crest height and sediment volume increased between 2013 and 2019. This set of factors favored the establishment and expansion of mangroves (3.2 ha) and saltmarshes (25.4 ha) along the backbarrier environments after 2013, allowing the tidal flats to keep pace with the RSL rise. However, waves and currents caused shoreline erosion following the beach nourishment project between Oct/2017 and Nov/2019, threatening wetlands by resuming the long-term process of shoreline retreat.

Sedimentary evolution of a delta-margin mangrove in Can Gio, northeastern Mekong River delta, Vietnam

Mangroves can deliver important socio-economic benefits and store significant volumes of carbon along tropical to temperate coastlines, but the distribution is controlled by complex geomorphologic, hydrodynamic and salinity conditions, as well as human-related pressures. In the Mekong delta, the interaction of tide, wave and riverine hydrodynamic processes clearly impacts sedimentation and mangrove distribution. Extensive mangroves presently occur along the northeastern delta margin (Can Gio, located 40 km southeast of Ho Chi Minh City), in an embayed, back-barrier environment subject to the highest tidal range (c. 4 m) and away from major fluvial distributary channels. However, the development of the Can Gio mangrove system during the Holocene evolution of the Mekong delta is not fully understood. This study aims to constrain the sedimentary evolution of the back-barrier mangrove in Can Gio based on stratigraphic, palynological and geochronological analyses of sediment cores. Two deep borehole cores (15 and 30 m deep) and four short auger cores (up to 4 m deep) were taken at the modern mangrove to characterize a 20-km-long shore-normal cross section dated with radiocarbon and optically-stimulated luminescence (OSL) ages. The cores consist of a thick (> 20 m) subtidal mud from the base of the Holocene unit to the level of 3–4 m deep below the ground level, overlain by carbonaceous, intertidal mud. Chronological data reveal major episode of subtidal mud aggradation from 6 to 3.5 ka, forming the topography for mangrove development. Radiocarbon ages in the overlying intertidal mud range from 4 ka to modern and show some inconsistencies with the stratigraphy, suggesting mangrove root penetration and sediment mixing. The beach-ridge structure and OSL ages of the Can Gio barrier indicate that barrier formation initiated just before 3.2 ka. The transition from subtidal to intertidal mud aggradation and initiation of barrier formation, are broadly correlated with the onset of the subaqueous delta progradation and shift to a wave-dominated regime in the central delta. However, after 3.5 ka, the Can Gio shoreline had negligible sediment accretion while the central delta prograded up to 50 km seawards. Reduced sediment supply to Can Gio is consistent with more asymmetric, southwestward-dominated longshore drift after 3.5 ka. The negligible progradation at Can Gio also indicates minor sediment supply from the nearby Dong Nai River, which prevented upper intertidal accretion and translation of mangroves into a flood plain.

Illite distribution and morphology explaining basinal variations in reservoir properties of Upper Jurassic sandstones, Danish North Sea

Abstract Growth of fibrous illite may destroy an otherwise promising sandstone reservoir, even sandstones characterized by microquartz coatings. Therefore detailed petrographical and diagenetic investigations were performed in order to understand the factors that control illite precipitation and other factors affecting the reservoir properties in the Upper Jurassic Heno Formation. The Heno Formation is encountered in large parts of the Danish Central Graben, where its lower part – the Gert Member – was mainly deposited in back-barrier environments and its upper part – the Ravn Member – was deposited in a shoreface environment. In total, 215 core samples from 15 wells were investigated petrographically by optical and scanning electron microscopy. This was supplemented by plug porosity and permeability measurements and X-ray diffraction of bulk and clay fraction. The investigations show, among other things, that microquartz coatings may help to preserve porosity and permeability, whereas the permeability is reduced when microquartz occurs combined with fibrous illite. Illite precipitation is largely governed by the amounts of K-feldspar present during burial. Consequently, the initial abundance of K-feldspar (in the sediment source area) and its alteration during and immediately after deposition, in particular during subaerial exposure (at sequence boundaries), has a major influence on the final reservoir properties of the sandstones. The risk of illite precipitation can largely be predicted from the available sediment source material, depositional environment and burial depth.

Tidal strait to embayment: Seismic stratigraphy and evolution of a rock-bounded embayment in the context of Holocene sea level change

Elongate, rock-framed Santa Catarina Island partly encloses a low-energy marine embayment that communicates with the ocean via narrow, rock-bounded inlets with ebb and flood-tide deltas. The bay shoreline consists of low-energy sandy beaches, strandplains, mangroves and bayhead deltas while the exposed Atlantic shoreline comprises a series of headland-embayment littoral cells in a linked, north-directed longshore drift system.New and previously published seismic stratigraphic investigations enable assessment of the palaeogeographic/geomorphic evolution of the area since the early Holocene. At a sea level of ca. −50 m a sandy mainland-attached shoreline complex (dune and beach) developed on a coastal plain setting some 6–7 km offshore of the present shoreline. North of the island, a barrier island and tombolo were formed in a coastal re-entrant adjacent to the northern entrance to Florianopolis Bay. The open coast beach/dune system was overstepped by rapid sea-level rise during MWP-1B whereas the barrier island and tombolo continued to accrete until MWP-1C when they too were overstepped.The back-island embayment contains up to 40 m of sediment overlying an irregular bedrock surface. It was initially flooded during MWP-1C and the early muddy sedimentation suggests a distal, sheltered marine embayment. The subsequent development of many large bioherms on bedrock and mud suggests a change to more fully marine conditions as sea-level continued to rise. In the North Bay, these were subsequently enveloped by tidal dunes migrating north from the mid-bay. The vertical stacking of 3-D and 2-D sandy bedforms suggests that a tidal strait had developed with strong tidal currents radiating from a constriction in the vicinity of modern Florianopolis City. The strong tidal currents may be linked to the Holocene sea-level high that is well documented for this region.A fall in sea level from this highstand, coupled with accumulation of tidal strait sediments, reduced the tidal prism and strength of tidal currents in the bay. At the same time, regressive beachridge plains developed in open coast and bay environments. This coincided with development of the contemporary tidal inlet complexes at the north and south outlets of the bay. As a consequence, the upper surface of the tidal strait sand deposits experienced tidal ravinement and the bay switched to a sheltered back-barrier environment dominated by deposition of mud and silt which blanket the contemporary bay floor. The tidal inlets sequestered sand from the littoral drift system in ebb and flood-tide deltas, which created breaks in the longshore drift system, causing littoral sediment to accumulate at the north of the island in a series of spits, and promoting strandplain development south of the island.

Seasonal dynamics and changing sea level as determinants of the community and trophic structure of oribatid mites in a salt marsh of the Wadden Sea.

Global change processes affect seasonal dynamics of salt marshes and thereby their plant and animal communities. However, these changes have been little investigated for microarthropod communities. We studied the effect of seasonality and changes in sea level on oribatid mites in the natural salt marsh and on artificial islands in the back-barrier environment of the island Spiekeroog (Wadden Sea, Germany). Three zones of the artificial islands were filled with transplanted sods from the lower salt marsh zone and thereby exposed to three different inundation frequencies. We hypothesized that oribatid mite communities will differ along the natural salt marsh vegetation zones [upper salt marsh (USM), lower salt marsh (LSM), pioneer zone (PZ)], which are influenced by different tidal regimes. Accordingly, total oribatid mite densities declined from the USM and LSM to the PZ. Similarly, oribatid mite species compositions changed along the salt marsh transect and also responded to variations in inundation frequency in LSM on artificial islands with typical species of the USM, LSM and PZ being Multioppia neglecta (USM), Hermannia pulchella (LSM), Zachvatkinibates quadrivertex (LSM, PZ) and Ameronothrus schneideri (LSM, PZ). Oribatid mite density in the salt marsh and on the artificial islands was at a maximum in winter and spring; this was due in part to high density of juveniles, pointing to two reproductive periods. We hypothesized that oribatid mite trophic structure changes due to variations in abiotic (e.g., tidal dynamics, temperature) and biotic conditions (e.g., resource availability). Stable isotope (15N, 13C) and neutral lipid fatty acid analyses indicated that oribatid mite species have different diets with e.g., Z. quadrivertex feeding on macroalgae and fungi, A. schneideri feeding on microalgae and bacteria, and Scheloribates laevigatus and M. neglecta feeding on dead organic matter, bacteria and fungi. Overall, the results indicate that oribatid mite species in salt marshes are affected by changes in environmental factors such as inundation intensity, with the effects being most pronounced in species with narrow trophic niches and limited niche plasticity. The results also indicate that oribatid mite communities of the LSM respond little to short-term (one year) changes in inundation frequency.

Bayhead deltas and shorelines: Insights from modern and ancient examples

Bayhead deltas are important components of the rock record as well as modern estuaries, hosting important hydrocarbon reservoirs and many coastal cities, ports and large expanses of wetlands. Despite their significance, few studies have summarized their occurrence and sedimentary characteristics. In this paper we review the stratigraphic, sedimentary, and geomorphic characteristics of 68 modern and ancient bayhead deltas. Bayhead deltas are found in incised valleys, structural basins, fjords, interdistributary bays of larger open-ocean deltas, and other backbarrier environments. Except for within fjords, they generally prograde into shallower and more brackish waters than their open-ocean equivalents. As a result, 80% of modern, 68% of Quaternary, and 67% of ancient bayhead deltas have clinoform thicknesses of 10 m or less with 73% of modern bayhead deltas having clinoform thicknesses of 5 m or less. Additionally, 89% of modern, 81% of Quaternary, and 77% of ancient bayhead deltas examined are fluvial dominated. We distinguish true bayhead deltas from their genetically similar bayhead shorelines, which are not constructional features but sites of enhanced marsh or estuarine sedimentation near river mouths with inadequate rates of sediment delivery to form distributary channels and prograde into the estuary or lagoon. We also distinguish confined bayhead deltas found in incised valleys, structural basins, and fjords from unconfined bayhead deltas found as incipient lobes of larger delta complexes and other back-barrier lagoons. The architecture of confined bayhead deltas is largely influenced by the limited accommodation brought about by the walls of the flooded valleys in which they are located. As such, confined bayhead-delta ontogeny is controlled by many autogenic interactions within these valley walls. Both confined and unconfined bayhead deltas are sensitive to sea-level rise, climate-controlled changes in sediment flux, and tectonics. Their relatively small size, connection with the terrestrial system, and protected nature make them the ideal depositional system to record Earth history including sea-level and climate changes.

Coastal flooding and the 1861-2 California storm season

A series of large storms attributed to Atmospheric River conditions struck the California coast in the winter of 1861-2. Although historical accounts document inland flooding, little is known about how the 1861-2 storms impacted the now heavily-developed California coast. Here we show that the 1861-2 storms emplaced a deposit of beach sand up to 50 cm thick over 450 m inland within a southern California salt marsh. This deposit is unprecedented in the post-European sediments of the marsh and more extensive than that derived from any other historical event. It is comparable in scale to hurricane and tsunami washover fans in back-barrier environments along other coastlines. The presence of overwash deposits in Carpinteria suggests that the 1861-2 storm season was erosive enough to remove coastal barriers, allowing for inundation of parts of the coastline currently developed. Efforts to prepare for a recurrence of an 1861-2-like storm season should address potential coastal impacts; likewise, interpretations of past washover deposits should consider these unusually prolonged stormy periods in addition to hurricane and tsunami inundation.

Barrier island migration dominates ecogeomorphic feedbacks and drives salt marsh loss along the Virginia Atlantic Coast, USA

Coupling between barrier islands and their associated backbarrier environments (salt marsh, tidal flats) leads to complex ecogeomorphic feedbacks that are proposed to control the response of barrier island systems to relative sea-level rise. This study tests the applicability of these still-theoretical concepts through investigation of the Virginia barrier islands (eastern United States), which are located in an area of accelerated sea-level rise. Using historical maps and photographs from A.D. 1851 to 2010, we determine that rapid landward island migration (1–6 m yr –1 ) is leading to backbarrier area reduction and large-scale salt marsh loss (63 km 2 or 19%) at a rate of 0.45 km 2 yr –1 . Landward barrier island migration far outpaces upland marsh migration and is responsible for 51% of marsh loss; the remainder is due to backbarrier processes (e.g., edge erosion). In direct contrast to proposed ecogeomorphic feedbacks linking barrier island and backbarrier environments, shoreline retreat rates were not related to changes in backbarrier marsh, open-water areas, or tidal prism. Rather, these results indicate that, for barrier island systems already undergoing migration, the primary barrier-backbarrier coupling is the loss of marsh and tidal-flat area because of barrier island migration.

Records of Migration and Ebb-Delta Breaching at Historic and Ancient Tidal Inlets along a River-Fed Paraglacial Barrier Island

ABSTRACT Hein, C.J.; Fitzsimons, G.G., FitzGerald, D.M., and Fallon, A.R., 2016. Records of Migration and Ebb-Delta Breaching at Historic and Ancient Tidal Inlets along a River-Fed Paraglacial Barrier Island. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 228-232. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208. Tidal inlets link backbarrier environments to the coastal ocean and play a dominant role in both longshore and cross-shore sediment transport. Additionally, inlet-fill sequences comprise up to 50% of barrier lithosomes in wave-dominated settings. This study uses historic records to investigate centennial-scale cycles of inlet dynamics and barrier shoreline adjustment at Merrimack River Inlet (Plum Island, Gulf of Maine). Geophysical and sedimentological data reveal geometric and stratigraphic signatures of these recent changes, and allow for comp...

The complex influences of back-barrier deposition, substrate slope and underlying stratigraphy in barrier island response to sea-level rise: Insights from the Virginia Barrier Islands, Mid-Atlantic Bight, U.S.A.

To understand the relative importance of back barrier environment, substrate slope and underlying stratigraphy in determining barrier island response to RSLR (relative sea-level rise), we use a morphological-behavior model (GEOMBEST) to conduct a series of sensitivity experiments, based on late-Holocene hindcast simulations of an island in the U.S. mid-Atlantic Bight (Metompkin Island, VA) having both salt marsh and lagoonal back-barrier environments, and we draw comparisons between these results and future simulations (2000–2100AD) of island response to RSLR. Sensitivity analyses indicate that, as a whole, the island is highly sensitive to factors that reduce overall sand availability (i.e., high sand-loss rates and substrates containing little sand). Results also indicate that for all predicted future RSLR scenarios tested, islands having high substrate sand proportions (if allowed to migrate freely) will likely remain subaerial for centuries because of sufficient substrate sand supply and elevation to assist in keeping islands above sea level. Simulation results also lead to basic insights regarding the interactions among substrate slope, back-barrier deposition and island migration rates. In contrast to previous studies, which suggest that changes in substrate slope directly affect the island migration trajectory, we find that—in the presence of back-barrier deposition—the connection between substrate slope and island behavior is modulated (i.e., variability in migration rates is dampened) by changes in back-barrier width. These interactions—which tend to produce changes in shoreface sand content—lead to a negative feedback when the back-barrier deposit contains less sand than the underlying layer, resulting in a stable back-barrier width. Alternatively, a positive feedback arises when the back-barrier deposit contains more sand than the underlying layer, resulting in either back-barrier disappearance or perpetual widening.

Late Holocene marine transgression and the drowning of a coastal forest: Lessons from the past, Cape Cod, Massachusetts, USA

Extra-tropical storms in the spring of 2010 swept the New England coastline resulting in significant erosion along South Cape Beach, a barrier system located on Cape Cod, Massachusetts. The erosion revealed 111 subfossil stumps and a preserved peat outcrop. We hypothesize that the stumps represent an ancient Eastern Red cedar, Juniperus virginiana, stand growing in a back-barrier environment and drowned by episodic storm events and moderate rates of sea-level rise. Stumps, bivalves, and organic sediments, were radiocarbon dated using traditional and continuous-flow Atomic Mass Spectroscopy methods. Six sediment cores elucidated subsurface stratigraphy and environmental setting. Subfossil stumps ranged in age from 413±80 to 1239±53 calibrated years before present. We assume that this age represents the time at which the ancient trees were drowned by marine waters. Based on elevation and age, an 826year rate of submergence was calculated at 0.73mm/yr with an R2 value of 0.47. Core stratigraphy, microfossil assemblages, and radiocarbon ages indicate a dynamic barrier environment with frequent overwash and breaching events occurring during the past 500years. Shoreline change analysis showed that between 1846 and 2008, the shoreline retreated landward by 70m at a long-term rate of 0.43m/yr. Future increases in the rate of sea-level rise, coupled with episodic storm events, will lead to the destruction of terrestrial environments at rate orders of magnitude greater than that during the time of the paleoforest.

Reconstructing mid-late Holocene cyclone variability in the Central Pacific using sedimentary records from Tahaa, French Polynesia

We lack an understanding of the geographic and temporal controls on South Pacific cyclone activity. Overwash records from backbarrier salt marshes and coastal ponds have been used to reconstruct tropical cyclone strikes in the North Atlantic basin. However, these specific backbarrier environments are scarce in the South Pacific, with cyclone records limited primarily to the period of modern observation. This instrumental record suggests a correlation with the El Niño–Southern Oscillation (ENSO), but longer records are necessary to test this relationship over geologic timescales and explore other potential climate drivers of tropical cyclone variability. Deep lagoons behind coral reefs are widespread in the Pacific and provide an alternative setting for developing long-term sedimentary reconstructions of tropical cyclone occurrence. Coarse-grained event deposits within the sediments of a back-reef lagoon surrounding Tahaa reveal a 5000-year record of cyclone occurrences. Timing of recent high-energy deposits matches well with observed tropical cyclone strikes and indicates coarse deposits are storm derived. Longer records show tropical cyclone activity was higher from 5000 to 3800 and 2900 to 500 yrs BP. Comparison to records from the North Pacific (out-of-phase) and North Atlantic (in phase) suggests a coordinated pattern of storm activity across tropical cyclone basins over the mid-late Holocene. The changes in tropical cyclone activity we observe in the South Pacific and across other basins may be related to ENSO as well as precession driven changes in ocean-atmosphere thermal gradients.

Barrier rollover and spit accretion due to the combined action of storm surge induced washover events and progradation: Insights from ground-penetrating radar surveys and sedimentological data

Tillmann, T. and Wunderlich, J., 2013. Barrier rollover and spit accretion due to the combined action of storm surge induced washover events and progradation: Insights from ground-penetrating radar surveys and sedimentological data.Barrier islands and spits are geological young, highly dynamic and represent a complex coastal system that includes a number of different but closely related sedimentary depositional environments. In this study ground-penetrating radar data of different antenna frequencies and sedimentological data were combined to reveal the sedimentary structure and architecture of the southern barrier island spit of Sylt and to set up a barrier island stratigraphy. Based on these data, two sedimentological models have been generated for Southern Sylt which describes the inter-action between extreme events, coastal processes and sedimentary development and contains the major episodes of barrier island evolution. The first model is concerned with the spit add-on zone where the barrier spit is attached to the central island moraine core and shows a landward migration through barrier rollover affected by an interplay of barrier retreat and washover flooding associated with accumulation of sediment in a backbarrier environment as a result of several storm surges. The spit add-on zone reveals a transgressive coarsening upward sequence starting with sandy mud flat deposits at the bottom which turn into coarser sandy tidal flat deposits toward the top. Sandy tidal flat deposits are overlain by washover sheet and washover fan deposits. The second model demonstrates a barrier spit accretion through southerly directed progradation. Eroded sediment was transported along the west coast of Sylt by longshore drift and was added to the southern spit-end. Progradation and barrier spit accretion were interrupted by severe storm surges. Storm surge generated erosion unconformities in a foreshore to shoreface environment redraw old spit-end positions that represent stages of barrier spit progradation.