Ancient Textiles Research Articles

Analysis of natural dyes in archeological textiles using TOF‐SIMS and other analytical techniques

Analytical identification of dyes in excavated textiles is an indispensable task for conservation research and restoration of ancient remains. However, excavated textiles have changed in color because of the burial environment and their centuries of burial; also, the color gradually fades after excavation. Furthermore, the low amount and limited availability of samples make it extremely difficult to identify the dyes. Therefore, in this study, non‐destructive analytical instruments such as time‐of‐flight secondary ion mass spectrometry (TOF‐SIMS), Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR), and X‐ray photoelectron spectroscopy (XPS) were used for dye detection, and analysis results are compared. In order to compare a dye to another dye, standard samples of dyed silk were prepared using dye compounds such as curcumin, berberine, quercetin, and indigo. These samples were then analyzed with TOF‐SIMS and FTIR. After the methodology to determine the dyes in the textiles was established, surface analytical techniques were also performed on three ancient textiles coming from 18th century Joseon Dynasty tombs. From the TOF‐SIMS and the FTIR spectra, indigo was detected on the blue textile, and indigo and berberine were detected on the green and brown textiles. The results suggest that TOF‐SIMS and FTIR are efficient and complementary non‐destructive techniques for the characterization of excavated fabrics. Copyright © 2014 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.

Textiles and Textile Production in Europe from Prehistory to AD 400. Edited by M. Gleba and U. Mannering . Ancient Textile Series 11. Oxbow Books, Oxford, 2012. Pp. vii + 470, illus. Price: £48.00. isbn 978 1 84217 463 0.

Textiles and Textile Production in Europe from Prehistory to AD 400. Edited by M. Gleba and U. Mannering . Ancient Textile Series 11. Oxbow Books, Oxford, 2012. Pp. vii + 470, illus. Price: £48.00. isbn 978 1 84217 463 0. - Volume 45

Fourier‐transform surface‐enhanced Raman spectroscopy (FT‐SERS) applied to the identification of natural dyes in textile fibers: an extractionless approach to the analysis

In the present study, an application of a silver colloid substrate in order to obtain Fourier‐transform surface‐enhanced Raman (FT‐SER) spectra of natural historical dyes is presented. In detail, we collected a spectral database from solutions of pure dyes and then we carried out extractionless both hydrolysis and non‐hydrolysis FT‐SERS analyses on wool fibers previously dyed in our laboratory and on ancient textiles. The term ‘extractionless’ refers to a method of SERS analysis applied directly on the fiber, thus avoiding the extraction of dyes from textile samples. The combination of a low‐energy source of radiation, as in the FT‐Raman technique, with SER spectroscopy can bring the important advantage of reducing the fluorescence typical of ancient samples and organic dyes. In some historical textile samples, for which SER spectra by use of visible excitation could not be obtained, the FT‐SER spectrum of an iron‐gall dye was recorded without hydrolysis, while, with an HF hydrolysis pre‐treatment on ancient fibers, madder, lac dye and brazilwood were clearly recognized. Copyright © 2014 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.

Provenance of archaeological wool textiles: new case studies

In the last two decades, measurements of strontium (Sr) isotopes in archaeological bone tissues/skeletons have shown to be an effective technique for the characterisation of human and animal mobility in prehistory. More recently, this tracing system is also being applied to the investigation of archaeological textile’s provenance. The importance of ancient textiles has been often underestimated, however research of archaeological textiles is currently experiencing an extremely increasing interest as the development of new methodologies, conducting experimental studies and lancing of new projects are providing an unreached amount of new information, knowledge and impressive data sets which together build the basis of novel thinking and interpretations. This manuscript aims at summarising two of the most recently developed methods that focus on the extraction of Sr from ancient non-dyed and organic-dyed wool threads from archaeological textiles in an attempt to identify if the raw materials are local or non-local to the sites. In particular, this study presents two case studies which rely on the use of these chemical protocols. The first example deals with a wool/fur sample from a modern Greenlandic Musk ox. The purpose of this study is to characterise wool from an exotic animal on the one side, and to try to establish a link between this wool and a geologically-seen ancient and very special terrain (Archaean basement rocks from the Kangerlussuaq area of Western Greenland) on which this musk ox was grazing. Our interest was focused on whether the bioavailable Sr fraction from this terrain impacted on the composition of the wool from the animal. The second case study deals with three thread samples from four ancient wool textile pieces recovered from one and the same pre-Roman Iron Age peat bog site at Krogens Mølle (Denmark). Some of these textiles have proven to be dyed with organic dyestuffs. This study therefore aimed at applying a novel pre-cleaning methodology developed for dyed (by organic dyestuffs) wool threads from ancient textiles. The outcome of these two particular studies revealed both the potential of these novel methodologies for retrieving the original Sr isotope signature of the raw material wool, and their limitations.

Indirect Enzyme-Linked Immune Method for the Detection of Binders in Ancient Chinese Textiles

In this study, an indirect ELISA was applied for specific identification of gelatin and collagen I in the binders of ancient Chinese textiles. The process consists of protein extraction and incubation, blocking, primary antibody incubation, secondary antibody incubation and coloration. To guarantee stringency, both artificially aged samples and archaeological samples were well prepared before testing. The results indicated that all the samples behaved positive for ovalbumin while negative for collagen I. This is the first time ELISA was applied in the detecting of binders of ancient textiles. Compared with other detecting methods, ELISA was sensitive, simple and specific. With such superior features, ELISA will become a frequently-used technique in the detection of proteins in ancient materials.

Application of lasers for corrosion cleaning of ancient textiles with metallic threads

Classical methods of corrosion cleaning of ancient textiles with metallic threads often do not produce the expected results. The use of lasers in the protection and conservation of cultural heritage items in recent years has an important role. The most complicated is the use of lasers in cleaning items that have a multicomponent structure, such as, combination of metal and fabric. This paper discusses the problem that appeared in the holdings of textiles Ethnographic Museum in Belgrade. We presents the results of the effects of Nd:Yag laser cleaning of ethnographic textile experimental samples with metallic threads. Cleaning effects was investigated by an optical and scanning electronic microscopy (OM and SEM) and EDX analysis. Parameters for successful and safe cleaning of corrosion products on the metal threads were determined for some exponats.

Multi-parametric micro-mechanical dating of single fibers coming from ancient flax textiles

A new micro-mechanical method for textiles dating was applied to flax fabrics. Notwithstanding that environmental factors like temperature and humidity can influence the mechanical parameters of ancient textiles, the method shows a relatively stable trend if some previous analysis is done to eliminate degraded samples. This method is based on a multi-parametric analysis of single fibers tested on a proper machine designed and calibrated for the purpose. Single fibers mounted on special supports are submitted to mechanical test consisting of multiple stress–strain cycles. The parameters sensitive to aging are tensile strength, Young modulus, and loss factor, the last two evaluated during particular phases of loading cycles. Five different calibration curves relating age to these mechanical parameters are determined by using a series of eleven textiles of known age from 3250 BC to 2000 AD that passed a proper pre-selection. The resulting age of the textiles derives from a combination of five independent dating. The relatively small number of textiles used for the analysis, due to the fact that it is not easy to find ancient textiles, gave results that can be improved by future analyses addressed to test a larger number of samples. For the moment, the relative standard uncertainty of the method is about 200 years but future test could reduce this uncertainty. This relatively simple method can also be useful to museums which wish to date themselves ancient textiles at low cost.

Characterization of flavonols in plants used for textile dyeing and the significance of flavonol conjugates

Although yellow, flavonol-based dyes were widely used in pre-modern times, this class of natural dyes presents special problems because flavonols (3-hydroxyflavones) readily undergo photo-oxidation, resulting in fading or discoloration. However, if the 3-hydroxy group is substituted, e.g., with a glycosyl group, the flavonol derivative is relatively stable. We analyzed representatives of eight plant genera, Delphinium, Flaveria, Pistachia, Prangos, Rhamnus, Sophora, Tamarix and Vitis, with the aim of identifying the flavonol components present. In all cases, the principal colorants were flavonol 3-O-glycosides (or, in one case, 3-O-sulfates), although some plants also contained the light-labile flavonol aglycones. We discuss some strategies that can be and may have been used to reduce the concentration of flavonol aglycones. In addition the identification of specific flavonol glycosides, or their high performance liquid chromatography elution patterns, is useful in identifying the plants used to dye ancient textiles, for which historical records are absent.

Characterization of dyes in ancient textiles from Yingpan, Xinjiang

In this paper we analyzed the natural dyes in well-preserved, ancient textiles from Yingpan, an important archaeological site on the Silk Road, using high-performance liquid chromatography with diode array and mass spectrometric detection. Dyes were removed from textile fibers using a soft extraction method (pyridine, water and oxalic acid). Two species of madder-type plants, Rubia tinctorum and Rubia cordifolia were identified as the dye sources in red and brown samples. We also were able to detect unusual flavonoid glycosides in yellow and green woolen yarns, although we have not been able to pinpoint with certainty a specific plant that may have been used to produce this dye(s). On the other hand, we found that yellow and green silk threads had been colored with protoberberine-type dyes, probably obtained from species of cork tree, Phellodendron spp., and/or other protoberberine producing plant. We propose that the textile dyes found at Yingpan reflect a merging of Eastern and Western practices and technologies during the 800-year period (206 BCE–618 CE) encompassing the early years of the Silk Road.

Suited and booted: costume and textiles in Europe from Neolithic to Roman times - Marie-Louise Nosch (ed.). Wearing the cloak: dressing the soldier in Roman times. viii+144 pages, 60 colour & b&w illustrations, 1 table. 2012. Oxford & Oakville (CT): Oxbow; 978-1-84217-437-1 hardback £ 25. - Susan Möller-Wiering. War and worship: textiles from 3rd to 4th century AD weapon deposits

Suited and booted: costume and textiles in Europe from Neolithic to Roman times - Marie-Louise Nosch (ed.). Wearing the cloak: dressing the soldier in Roman times. viii+144 pages, 60 colour & b&w illustrations, 1 table. 2012. Oxford & Oakville (CT): Oxbow; 978-1-84217-437-1 hardback £ 25. - Susan Möller-Wiering. War and worship: textiles from 3rd to 4th century AD weapon deposits in Denmark and Northern Germany (Ancient Textiles Series 9). xvi+198 pages, 103 b&w & colour illustration, 8 tables. 2011. Oxford & Oakville (CT): Oxbow; 978-1-84217-428-9 hardback £ 30. - Margarita Gleba & Ulla Mannering (ed.). Textiles and textile production in Europe: from prehistory to AD 400. viii+470 pages, 343 b&w & colour illustrations. 2012. Oxford: Oxbow; 978-1-84217-463-0 hardback £ 48. - Volume 86 Issue 334

Textiles and textile production in Europe from prehistory to AD 400

There is evidence that ever since early prehistory, textiles have always had more than simply a utilitarian function. Textiles express who we are - our gender, age, family affiliation, occupation, religion, ethnicity and social, political, economic and legal status. Besides expressing our identity, textiles protect us from the harsh conditions of the environment, whether as clothes or shelter. We use them at birth for swaddling, in illness as bandages and at death as shrouds. We use them to carry and contain people and things. We use them for subsistence to catch fish and animals and for transport as sails. In fact, textiles represent one of the earliest human craft technologies and they have always been a fundamental part of subsistence, economy and exchange. Textiles have an enormous potential in archaeological research to inform us of social, chronological and cultural aspects of ancient societies. In archaeology, the study of textiles is often relegated to the marginalised zone of specialist and specialised subject and lack of dialogue between textile researchers and scholars in other fields means that as a resource, textiles are not used to their full potential or integrated into the overall interpretation of a particular site or broader aspects of human activity. Textiles and Textile Production in Europe is a major new survey that aims to redress this. Twenty-three chapters collect and systematise essential information on textiles and textile production from sixteen European countries, resulting in an up-to-date and detailed sourcebook and an easily accessible overview of the development of European textile technology and economy from prehistory to AD 400. All chapters have an introduction, give the chronological and cultural background and an overview of the material in question organised chronologically and thematically. The sources of information used by the authors are primarily textiles and textile tools recovered from archaeological contexts. In addition, other evidence for the study of ancient textile production, ranging from iconography to written sources to palaeobotanical and archaeozoological remains are included. The introduction gives a summary on textile preservation, analytical techniques and production sequence that provides a background for the terminology and issues discussed in the various chapters. Extensively illustrated, with over 200 colour illustrations, maps, chronologies and index, this will be an essential sourcebook not just for textile researchers but also the wider archaeological community.

Kathrine Vestergård Pedersen and Marie-Louise B. Nosch, eds., The Medieval Broadcloth: Changing Trends in Fashions, Manufacturing and Consumption. (Ancient Textiles Series, 6.) Oxford and Oakville, Conn.: Oxbow Books, 2009. Paper. Pp. xi, 159; many black-and-white and color figures and many tables. $50.

Previous articleNext article No AccessKathrine Vestergård Pedersen and Marie-Louise B. Nosch, eds., The Medieval Broadcloth: Changing Trends in Fashions, Manufacturing and Consumption. (Ancient Textiles Series, 6.) Oxford and Oakville, Conn.: Oxbow Books, 2009. Paper. Pp. xi, 159; many black-and-white and color figures and many tables. $50.PDFPDF PLUSFull Text Add to favoritesDownload CitationTrack CitationsPermissionsReprints Share onFacebookTwitterLinkedInRedditEmail SectionsMoreDetailsFiguresReferencesCited by Speculum Volume 86, Number 4October 2011 The journal of the Medieval Academy of America Article DOIhttps://doi.org/10.1017/S0038713411002806 Views: 22Total views on this site Copyright © The Medieval Academy of America 2011PDF download Crossref reports no articles citing this article.

Special Animal Fibers in Chinese Ancient Textiles

Special Animal Fibers in Chinese Ancient Textiles

Chemistry and Art: Ancient textiles and medieval manuscripts examined through chemistry

The socio-historical value of examining ancient textiles and medieval manuscripts is illustrated by specific examples from the author's experience. Materials examined included pre-Columbian Peruvian textiles and Armenian and Byzantine medieval manuscripts, with connections made to present practice in both fields. Synthesis of pigments using recipes taken from medieval artists' manuals pointed to the strong relationship between modern chemistry and the artistic endeavors of the Middle Ages. While chemists always seem to have been more interested in the interface between their discipline and art, as evidenced from the discussion below, the last section of this paper will discuss a recent lively interest on the part of some artists, especially with respect to the chemical changes that take place in a “finished” work of art.

Preparation of AgCl Nanoparticles@Ancient Textile with Antibacterial Activity under Ultrasound Irradiation

The growth of silver chloride nanoparticles on ancient textile was achieved by sequential dipping steps in alternating bath of potassium chloride and silver nitrate under ultrasound irradiation. The effect of ultrasound irradiation and sequential dipping steps in growth of the AgCl nanoparticles has been studied. These systems depicted a decrease in the particles size accompanying a decrease in the sequential dipping steps. The samples were characterized with powder X-ray diffraction (XRD) and scanning electron microscopy. XRD analyses indicated that the prepared AgCl nanoparticles on fiber were crystalline. The textile samples containing AgCl nanoparticles were tested for their antibacterial efficacy against Escherichia coli and were found to possess significant antibacterial activity.

Identification of ancient textiles from Yingpan, Xinjiang, by multiple analytical techniques

Various extraordinary textiles were excavated from a graveyard at Yingpan, Xinjiang, on the middle route of the ancient Silk Road. Applications of western motifs and designs to traditional Chinese textiles led to the emergence of compound woven textiles with central Asian characters. For a better understanding of the cultural exchanges and textile trade between the West and the East in ancient times, identifications of archaeological fibres and dyes were carried out for various funerary textile objects by using multiple analytical techniques, such as high performance liquid chromatography with photodiode detection, optical microscopy, scanning electronic microscopy (SEM), and Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FT-IR). Fibre identifications were performed for 35 archaeological textile samples, and the results showed that the ancient textiles were mostly made from Bombyx mori silk and wool. The SEM and FT-IR experimental results revealed that these ancient textiles remained morphologically intact due to the special (very dry) climate in Xinjiang, but noticeably degraded at the molecular level due to long time thermo-ageing and/or biodegradation. The principal colouring matters, such as alizarin, purpurin, indigotin and luteolin, were respectively characterised for nine archaeological textile samples. The yellow dyestuffs derived from luteolin-based plants were assumed to have been imported to China from the Middle East and Western Asia through the Silk Road.

A Study on the Characteristics of the Designs on Coptic Textiles of Ancient Egypt

Textile and clothing in Ancient Egypt have carried long history and tradition. Especially, Egyptian textile culture, created mostly by the Copt, has the originality of weaving technology and the artistic beauty of the weaving motifs, making the textiles comparable to modern textiles. The purpose of this study is to research on the characteristics of Coptic textile designs of ancient Egypt and the tunic, a basic garment made of Coptic textiles, and offer materials for the development of the textiles and designs with artistic values which can be shared in the modern era, not just for the research of the relics of the past. Therefore, this study will follow the historical background of Coptic textiles and the process of the development, and look into the distinct features under the categories of material, colors and motifs. In addition, the tunic and its weaving technology will be explained and this will help understand the originality of Coptic textiles. The scope of this study is limited to the period of the 3rd to 12th centuries when the Egyptian weaving technologies advanced dramatically and many of the ancient Egyptian textiles discovered from the grave goods dates back, the research methode of the tunic as well as books published at home and abroad, research paper and photograph works. The textiles had developed along the Egyptian history which was influenced by different cultures such as Greek, Roman, pagan, Christian, and later, Islamic. For the textiles, they used a variety of pictorial motifs including Greek goddesses, pastoral scenes related to the Nile River and animals, human figures, geometrical figures and Christian icons. They are symbolic, natural, and mythological characters, and this explains that the world views and religions of the weavers influenced the development of specific motifs. Coptic textiles was used to make a tunic, a simple straight-sided gown without sleeves worn by men and women and was woven in a combination of linen plain weave and woolen tapestry weave for a tunic. Not only the excellence of the weaving technologies and the beauty of the colors used in the textiles, but also the diversity of the textures through weaving, embroidery, and knotting are detected in Coptic textiles.

Cultura Empresarial e Reestruturação Produtiva na Indústria Brasileira: O Caso da Lupo S/A

Fundada em 1921, a empresa atualmente denominada Lupo S/A é das mais antigas das indústrias do setor têxtil e confecções da Brasil. Neste artigo se busca traçar as linhas gerais da trajetória da empresa familiar, hoje voltada para a produção de meias, lingeries e artigos esportivos. O foco do artigo está na análise de algumas estratégias utilizadas pela empresa ao longo de seu processo de formação e desenvolvimento e, em particular, a forma como essas estratégias possibilitaram a reestruturação produtiva associada à superação de forte crise iniciada no final dos anos 80 e começo dos 90, possibilitando sua consolidação recente na indústria de confecções. A hipótese norteadora do estudo é de que a forte cultura organizacional que se foi formando e se consolidando desde sua fundação, restabelecida na gestão mais recente, foi o fator responsável pelos avanços capazes de gerar um ambiente de inovação tanto em produtos quanto em processos e gestão. A reflexão teórica selecionada para subsidiar a construção cognitiva do estudo da empresa está apoiada na abordagem histórica sobre o desenvolvimento da indústria têxtil no Brasil e em estudos sobre importância da ação do empreendedor, no papel da cultura organizacional e da inovação para a escolha das estratégias em empresas. A pesquisa realizada envolveu a análise de documentos e dados da empresa, além de entrevistas com diretores e funcionários. Os resultados mostram um modelo tradicional da empresa, mas também a presença de uma dinâmica empresarial muito avançada. O mundo moderno – conhecido como modelo industrial fordista – já podia ser percebido na empresa quando este padrão de produção ainda não estava claramente definido na indústria brasileira. Atualmente, a empresa enfrenta o desafio da globalização e da competição aberta no mercado internacional, que traz a concorrência das maiores e melhores empresas globalizadas.

CHARACTERIZATION OF TRADITIONAL DYES OF THE MEDITERRANEAN AREA BY NON-INVASIVE UV-VIS-NIR REFLECTANCE SPECTROSCOPY

An understanding of the composition of natural and synthetic dyes used in ancient textiles and rugs is important for conservation purposes and to determine the origin of a textile or rug. Colorants or dyes are traditionally analysed by means of separation methods and ultraviolet–visible spectroscopic techniques that require sampling. This contribution focuses on establishing a fast, non-invasive, and in situ measurement procedure based on ultraviolet–visible–near infrared reflectance spectroscopic techniques for the characterization of dyes in ancient textiles or rugs manufactured in the Mediterranean basin and Middle East. For this purpose a collection of specimens on wool supports was prepared following ancient dyeing recipes. The samples were subsequently measured in the 230–2500 and 350–1700 nm ranges to create a spectroscopic database that was then compared with spectra acquired from textiles and rugs in order to characterize the dyes present.

Evaluating the Combined Efficacy of Polymers with Fungicides for Protection of Museum Textiles against Fungal Deterioration in Egypt

Fungal deterioration is one of the highest risk factors for damage of historical textile objects in Egypt. This paper represents both a study case about the fungal microflora deteriorating historical textiles in the Egyptian Museum and the Coptic museum in Cairo, and evaluation of the efficacy of several combinations of polymers with fungicides for the reinforcement of textiles and their prevention against fungal deterioration. Both cotton swab technique and biodeteriorated textile part technique were used for isolation of fungi from historical textile objects. The plate method with the manual key was used for identification of fungi. The results show that the most dominant fungi isolated from the tested textile samples belong to Alternaria, Aspergillus, Chaetomium, Penicillium and Trichoderma species. Microbiological testing was used for evaluating the usefulness of the suggested conservation materials (polymers combined with fungicides) in prevention of the fungal deterioration of ancient Egyptian textiles. Textile samples were treated with 4 selected polymers combined with two selected fungicides. Untreated and treated textile samples were deteriorated by 3 selected active fungal strains isolated from ancient Egyptian textiles. This study reports that most of the tested polymers combined with the tested fungicides prevented the fungal deterioration of textiles. Treatment of ancient textiles by suggested polymers combined with the suggested fungicides not only reinforces these textiles, but also prevents fungal deterioration and increases the durability of these textiles. The tested polymers without fungicides reduce the fungal deterioration of textiles but do not prevent it completely.