Abstract

Abstract

Highlights

  • The shape of surface gravity waves plays a role in many physical phenomena

  • Wave shape is pertinent in remote sensing, where wave skewness modulates the returned waveform in radar altimetry (e.g. Jackson 1979; Hayne 1980; Huang et al 1983) and wave asymmetry affects the thermal emissions measured in polarimetric radiometry (e.g. Kunkee & Gasiewski 1997; Piepmeier & Gasiewski 2001; Johnson & Cai 2002)

  • The harmonic phase β, harmonic magnitudes a1 and a2, and complex frequency ω depend on the four non-dimensional parameters: the wave steepness ε := a1k, water depth kh, pressure magnitude constant Pk/(ρwg) and wind phase ψP

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Summary

Introduction

The shape of surface gravity waves plays a role in many physical phenomena. Wave shape is described by the third-order statistical moments, skewness and asymmetry (e.g. Hasselmann 1962; Elgar, Freilich & Guza 1990). Wave skewness represents a wave’s vertical asymmetry, while wave asymmetry corresponds to its horizontal asymmetry These two parameters are integral in determining sediment transport direction Jackson 1979; Hayne 1980; Huang et al 1983) and wave asymmetry affects the thermal emissions measured in polarimetric radiometry (e.g. Kunkee & Gasiewski 1997; Piepmeier & Gasiewski 2001; Johnson & Cai 2002). These wave-shape parameters play a role in determining ship response to wave impacts While some wave asymmetry-inducing phenomena, such as wave shoaling (e.g. Elgar & Guza 1985, 1986) and vertically sheared currents

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