Wave-induced sediment and rhodolith mobility on a narrow insular shelf dominated by wave variability (Fernando de Noronha Archipelago, Brazil)

Abstract

This study combines numerical modeling and empirical equations to define spatial fields of wave-induced sediment and rhodolith mobility in a narrow insular shelf that is subject to a seasonal wave regime: the Fernando de Noronha insular shelf. From analyses of the annual, summer and winter wave climates, we noticed an intense directional variability in swell waves coming predominantly from opposing directions between the studied seasons (northern swell in summer and southern swell in winter), reflecting higher wave energy on the north coast during summer and lower energy during winter. The longitudinal transport at the northern coast, which is predominantly oriented to the southwest, is also higher in the summer months and lower in the rest of the year. To describe the spatial variation in wave-induced mobility under summer and winter wave conditions, we consider empirical sediment movement equations, based on mean grain size and density values. Carbonate bioclastic sediments, which are predominant in the Fernando de Noronha shelf, are remobilized by waves throughout the entire shelf. However, in the nearshore zone, this movement occurs intensely for all sizes. The depth and shelf side affected by wave-induced mobility vary according to the wave climate variability that determines the direction and type of wave prevailing in the regime. When swell waves come from the north (summer scenarios), mobility is greater mainly on the northern shelf; however, when trade wind waves come from the southeast and swell waves come from the south (winter scenarios), greater movement is produced on the south face. Wave-induced sediment mobility occurs at depths of up to 60 m, near the shelf break, indicating the importance of the shelf morphology. The movement of rhodoliths, which presents a lower density and larger diameter than the sediments, eventually occurs under extreme wave conditions up to depths of approximately 30 m in areas that vary seasonally around the island according to the predominant wave direction. These characteristics are favorable to rhodolith development. With our results, we hope to better understand the wave action on the bottoms of high-energy island shelves by identifying the sediment movement patterns attributed to wave climate variability and morphological characteristics of the shelf.